Get creative with peach, and give it a savoury spin

Mint

a day ago

I landed from a cold and cosy Bengaluru straight into an East Coast heatwave in New York and Boston a couple of weeks ago. One thing that kept me going were my newly bought sneakers in New York City and the thought of spending time in my cousin Ramya's home in North Carolina on the next leg of our trip. This too was going to be in the middle of a hot Southern summer, but it held the promise of being with family, home-cooked meals and a seasonal fruit bounty that Ramya had been tempting me with, on our chats leading up to my travel.
Peaches were at the top of her list. As someone who has never lived in north India, my access to good stone fruit has always been painfully limited. Peaches may be Georgia's official state fruit, but North Carolina also enjoys an abundant peach season in the summer. So getting to taste peak-season peaches here was a very tempting idea. I had only ever eaten peaches that came in trays from supermarkets back home, often underripe or literally stony with no juiciness whatsoever.
We reached Ramya's home completely exhausted from two flights and thunderstorm-induced delays, and yet, the sight of fresh peaches sitting pretty in a wooden bowl on her kitchen island was warm and comforting. I knew the breakfast the next morning was going to be special. I held up a peach to my nose and took a long whiff—fruity, floral, and so delicious.
fruit
Unlike tropical fruits, a ripe peach gives out a more delicate, wispy aroma, more of a whisper than shout. And its flavour is equally subtle. If you're not eating the fruit as is, it's best used in recipes that allow it to shine without overpowering it. To complete the seasonal fruit experience, Ramya had borrowed a few cookbooks from the local public library for me to browse. Among them was Peaches: A Savor the South® Cookbook by Kelly Alexander. What stands out about this book is that it begins boldly with desserts, then moves to breakfast, appetisers, condiments and drinks.
I've bookmarked some quirky and creative recipes like pickled peaches, peach tempura and peach French toast sandwiches, but my personal favourite way to use sweet fruit is in a savoury recipe. Think ripe mangoes in Mangalorean-style curry or a Gujarati-style guava subzi. Sweet, tangy, and salty all at once. There's something deeply satisfying about a fruit finding its place in a main course, not just the dessert plate.
So here are some creative ways to use peaches with a savoury spin:
• Peach rasam with notes of ginger and green chillies
• Peach and gochujang fried rice with tofu or scrambled eggs
• Pizza topped with roasted peaches, smoked cheese, basil, honey and chilli flakes
• Diced peaches cooked along with tomatoes for a floral, fruity kick in shakshouka
I need to say this in praise of our own pahadi peaches—which when had locally are equally superior. But, the packaging and logistics of transporting fruits across the vast distances in India are not an easy task. The best way to enjoy the seasonal goodness is to look for this fruit in preserves or jams made by small cooperatives located where the fruit is grown, making it a farm-to-bottle-to-your-kitchen experience.
PEACH BASIL CHUTNEY
(Makes around 1.5 cups)
Ingredients
1 tbsp olive oil (or mustard oil for punch)
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 small green chilli or jalapeño, finely chopped
1-inch piece fresh ginger, grated
1 ripe peach, peeled and diced (about one-and-a-half cups)
One-and-a-half tbsp apple cider vinegar (or lime juice)
1 tbsp jaggery or brown sugar (adjust to taste)
Half tsp salt
10–12 fresh basil leaves, chopped
Cracked black pepper to taste
Method
In a pan, heat the oil and sauté the onion, garlic, green chilli, and ginger. Cook for 2–3 minutes on medium heat until softened. Add the peaches, vinegar, and jaggery. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low and cook until the peaches turn soft and pulpy—about 15 minutes. Stir in chopped basil and cracked pepper to finish.
Let it cool completely before transferring to a jar. Refrigerate and use within 7–10 days.
FANCY GRILLED PEACH SALAD
Serves 2–4
Ingredients
2 tsp olive oil, for brushing the peaches
2 ripe but firm peaches, halved and pitted
2 handfuls rocket leaves, baby spinach, or mixed salad greens
Half cup cherry tomatoes, halved
Half cucumber, shaved into ribbons
1 small onion, thinly sliced
8 tsp ricotta cheese (whipped)
For spiced seeds
2 tbsp pumpkin seeds
1 tbsp sunflower seeds
A pinch of red chilli flakes
Half tsp olive oil
Salt to taste
For the dressing
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp honey
2 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Method
Brush the cut sides of the peaches with olive oil. Heat a grill pan and place peaches cut side down. Grill for 3–4 minutes until charred, then flip and cook for 1 more minute. Slice into thick wedges once cool.
To prepare the spiced seeds, heat oil in a small pan. Add pumpkin seeds, sunflower seeds, chilli flakes, and salt. Toast for 2–3 minutes until golden and aromatic. Set aside to cool.
For the dressing, whisk together lemon juice, Dijon mustard, honey, olive oil, salt, and pepper until thick and creamy.
In a large bowl or platter, layer the greens, tomatoes, cucumber, and onion. Top with grilled peach slices. Spoon ricotta over the salad and sprinkle toasted seeds on top. Drizzle the dressing over the salad just before serving.
Double Tested is a fortnightly column on vegetarian cooking, highlighting a single ingredient prepared two ways. Nandita Iyer's latest book is The Great Indian Thali. She posts @saffrontrail on Instagram and X.