Keen sense of scents brings deeper appreciation
Humans tend to only pick up five tastes on our tongues — sour, bitter, sweet, salty and umami — leaving our olfactory system to do a lot of heavy lifting in teasing out the subtle (and not-so-subtle) differences in wine (and everything else we consume).
While some people can rattle off descriptors about the smell of a wine with ease, others might sniff a Merlot and simply say, 'It smells like wine.'
But there are ways you can train your nose (and your brain) to unpack what's in your glass.
PEXELS
Get specific about what scents you're detecting in your wine. If you're picking up a floral note, try to determine what flower you're smelling.
Get specific about what scents you're detecting in your wine. If you're picking up a floral note, try to determine what flower you're smelling.
Here are five ways I've honed my olfactory senses over the years that have helped me in my craft, and in the process have provided a deeper appreciation of wine, beer and food.
Author Malcolm Gladwell said (to paraphrase) that if you put 10,000 hours of time into working on anything, you'll become an expert in that field. I've been sticking my nose in wine glasses professionally since the mid-1990s, first working at wine stores and then as the Free Press drinks writer. I have no idea how many hours that amounts to, but I'm certain that my ability to pick out subtle aromatic elements in wine and other drinks has improved — and continues to improve — with practice.
One of the best workouts for your nose is at the grocery store. The produce department's a great place to sniff your way through many of the core aromatic components found in wines. You might discover the peachy notes you're picking up in an Aussie Chardonnay are actually nectarine, and that yes, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc does in fact bring elements of green pepper and grapefruit.
Closer to home, give your nose a workout in the kitchen cupboard. Give that bottle of vanilla and jar of cloves a sniff, then keep those smells in mind the next time you taste an oaky white wine. Stick your nose in a box of black tea bags, then look for those same aromas in a tannic red wine. Explore the differences between savoury and baking spices (carefully, lest you collapse into a sneezing fit).
Picking up primary plum, blueberry and violet aromas is normal when sniffing a Merlot — but what if you had three or five or more Merlots in front of you? How would you describe the differences?
Trying multiple wines made from the same grape or region is the easiest way to suss out subtle differences between wines, often a result of how they were made, the climate/soil in which the grapes were grown, etc.
So you're picking up floral notes in a Pinot Grigio: is it a rose? A violet? Baby's breath? Is that apple note you're smelling more like a red or green apple, or a tart crabapple? Is it the flesh of the fruit, or its skin and seeds? Or is it more like apple candy? Drill down and see where it takes you.
First impressions go a long way in my own assessment of a wine and tend to be some of the most specific descriptors — primarily because they tend to be associated with a memory. Descriptors such as Tootsie Roll, beach ball, chalk, banana candy and the like are common in my notes, and more than once I've picked up hints of the Nonsuch in an Old World red aged in oak. Then there are the oddballs including (but not limited to) finding notes of pleather, or dirty diaper, or armpit (or, conversely, Speed Stick), petting zoo or black forest cake.
Always leave enough room in your glass to give your wine a vigorous swirl before shoving your nose in — it helps release the aromatic components in a wine and goes a long way in the enjoyment of what's in your glass.
And make sure a wine isn't too warm or cold. Explore the ways a chilled wine's aromas change as it sits out on the counter and warms up. Or give a red wine a sniff and taste at room temperature, then pop it in the fridge for 10-15 minutes (as I almost always do) to see/smell/taste how it changes.
Every Second Friday
The latest on food and drink in Winnipeg and beyond from arts writers Ben Sigurdson and Eva Wasney.
uncorked@mts.net
@bensigurdson
OTU Wines 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand — $20.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Pale straw in colour, with grapefruit pith, gooseberry, tart lime and bell pepper aromas. Light-bodied and bone dry, with bell pepper/grassy notes alongside tart grapefruit and modest gooseberry flavours, hints of lime juice, bracing acidity and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a brisk finish. Fresh and lively, but could use a touch more ripeness. 3/5
Penley 2021 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra, Australia — $22.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Inky purple in colour, with fresh violet, eucalyptus, cassis, blackberry and subtle dark chocolate aromas. Dry and full-bodied, brimming with fresh red currant, blackberry and eucalyptus along with secondary cracked pepper and black licorice, modest acidity and tannins and, at 14.5 per cent alcohol, a slightly warm finish. Delicious — drink or hold for two to three years. 4.5/5
Leaning Post 2022 The Fifty Chardonnay (Niagara Peninsula, Ont. — $26.99, Liquor Marts and beyond)
Made by former Winnipeggers Nadia and Ilya Senchuk in the Niagara Peninsula, this wine is pale straw in colour and aromatically brings fresh red apple, peach pie, lemon zest and hints of chalk and toasted nuts. It's dry and light-plus-bodied, with a creamy texture from having been aged on lees in concrete tanks for nine months. Brilliant red apple, peach, pear and lemon candy notes, with a hint of spice lingering on the modest finish (it's 12.5 per cent alcohol). Elegant and exceptional. 4.5/5
Ben SigurdsonLiterary editor, drinks writer
Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press's literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben.
In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press's editing team before being posted online or published in print. It's part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates.
Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber.
Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.
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Winnipeg Free Press
a day ago
- Winnipeg Free Press
Don't get burned when having too much fun in the sun
There's nothing better than feeling that first hit of heat on your skin after enduring a long, cold winter. Along with vastly improving our disposition, the sun also plays an important role in physical health. As rays hit our body, receptor cells in our skin convert sunlight into vitamin D, which helps bodies regulate calcium and phosphate, the two essential nutrients that keep teeth, bones and muscles healthy. But too much sunshine isn't good for us either. Ultraviolet (UV) rays can damage the skin, causing it to burn. This increases the risk of melanoma, the most dangerous form of skin cancer. Even with a hat and umbrella at your disposal, using sunscreen goes a long way in preventing sunburn and reducing the risk of skin cancer. (David Goldman / The Associated Press files) It's a tricky balance getting sunlight for the body to generate its own vitamin D while trying to avoid getting burned, which is where sunscreen comes in. But which one to buy? The ones packaged in glossy tubes? Or maybe sticks, similar to deodorant, might be better? Classic lotions are great for the home but not so much when travelling. And can a spray guarantee even coverage? Method of delivery isn't the only thing to consider — decoding labels is a challenge in itself. While most are aware that SPF means Sun Protection Factor, do we all understand what the numbers next to it denote? And what's the difference between UVA and UVB rays? Is broad spectrum the way to go? And does mineral work better than chemical or is it the other way round? (See sidebar) You also have to figure out what it feels like on skin. Is it oily? Greasy? Does it make you look like you've taken a dip in a vat of lard or does it leave you with an ashen pallor, that dreaded white cast that haunts those blessed with an excess of melanin? Do you smell like you've been doused in chemicals or is it so perfumed it makes you choke? As ever, we are here to help. The Free Press team tested five brands of sunscreen to figure out what we like best. SPF 50, $15.49 for 89 ml Blue Lizard Kids Mineral Sunscreen Lotion They say: Formulated with Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide, which offers both UVA and UVB protection. It's also a fragrance-free, paraben-free and phthalates-free formula. But does it live up to the hype? We say: This tube sunscreen has a great consistency — not too thick, not too runny and it was easy to apply without much stickiness. It does take a bit of work to really rub it into the skin, but that's actually a good thing because you can easily see where you've applied and spots you've missed. Once it absorbs, it's totally matte. I put this sunscreen through the ringer with my 22-month-old; two hours at the zoo, a pool afternoon and a sweaty trip to the park. I reapplied as directed — the label states one application gives 80 minutes of protection — and despite being very fair-skinned, my little guy didn't burn at all (note: he was also wearing a hat at all times). The sunscreen was applied to his face and body, and his skin showed no signs of irritation. This brand also has a 'baby' formulation, the only difference being the one for kids is marketed as slightly more water- and sweat-resistant. As mentioned, he was in a pool for an hour or more and it seemed to stand up to the water just fine. I will definitely continue using this product throughout the summer. The only con is the price; at around $15.50 for an 89 ml tube, it's a bit steep. ★★★★ out of five — Erin Lebar SPF 50, $22.99 for 42 g Aveeno Protect + Soothe Mineral Sunscreen Stick for Sensitive Skin They say: Aveno Protect + Soothe Mineral Sunscreen Stick is designed for easy application, even on the go. It's formulated with friendly ingredients for sensitive skin, such as naturally sourced Zinc Oxide and pure oat essence. But does it live up to the hype? We say: This broad spectrum stick is pretty good. The mechanics of it are exactly like deodorant — pull cap, twist knob, slide on — except you're putting it all over your body. I generally prefer an aerosol if I need more full-body coverage — i.e. in a bathing suit — but this is a really good option to have in your bag because it can't leak. This paraben- and phthalates- free formula glides on easily, especially after it has been warmed by your skin, and has a barely-there scent the way most 'fragrance free' items do, which is almost a drawback because I like the smell of sunscreen. The Zinc Oxide leaves a slight white cast which allows you to see missed spots and absorbs easily when rubbed in a bit. Dries clear: not shiny and, crucially, not sticky, so you won't have to experience a sensory nightmare putting clothes over top of it. (Just me?) It makes your skin feel soft and moisturized. Must be that 'pure oat essence.' It's also water resistant for 80 minutes. I didn't wear it in the water, but I wore it on the water during an hour-long boat tour last summer and didn't burn. As with all sunscreen, you have to make sure you're wearing more than you think you need. I originally bought this for travel because, top tip: much like non-gel stick deodorant, stick sunscreen is not considered a liquid (it's measured in grams) and therefore does not have to be Tetrised into your clear, one-litre liquids bag in order to ride in your carry-on luggage. Of course, you are at the whims of any given security personnel, but it's been no trouble for me. ★★★★ out of five — Jen Zoratti SPF 4011, $49 for 50 ml Vasanti Sun's Up! Tinted Mineral Sunscreen They say: This 100 per cent mineral sunscreen for the face promises broad-spectrum UVA and UVB protection to protect and combat against sun damage, as well as target and fade dark spots over time. But does it live up to the hype? We say: Sunscreen and I are not friends. There are countless lotions around purporting to leave no white cast but it's not true. I have tried so many to no avail. Both chemical and mineral formulations stain my skin a ghostly white and no amount of rubbing in helps. So imagine my delight when I spotted this dinky little tube online by Canadian-owned cosmetics and skincare brand Vasanti, whose products are created for those with diverse skin tones. Mineral sunscreens are infamous for making everyone, not just those of us blessed with brown skin, look chalky, but this number did nothing of the sort. Much to my initial alarm, the cream is tinted at least five shades lighter than my skin. However, it requires hardly any rubbing in and sinks in beautifully to my moisturized face. It feels rich but not heavy, and my face felt protected when out and about. In fact, I can't find anything wrong with it other than its eye-watering price tag. At $49 for such a tiny amount this isn't the most wallet-friendly option. Best I start saving up now in case they're thinking of making a version for the whole body. I would've give this five stars but for the price. ★★★★ 1/2 stars out of five — AV Kitching SPF 30, $20.99 for 141 g Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist They say: A non-greasy spray available in SPFs 30, 45 and 60, this is an effective broad-spectrum protection spray against sun's aging UVA and burning UVB rays, in an ultra-light, non-greasy finish. But does it live up to the hype? We say: This sunscreen is a dream to apply. The mist feels refreshingly cool on a hot day and the nozzle angle creates good coverage, making application simple and speedy. There is some inevitable product waste due to overspray. I've used this and other spray sunscreens in the past and find the canisters run out much faster than their cream counterparts. The 'ultra sheer' in the name is apt. It's very lightweight to the point of being imperceptible. This screen goes on clear and dries quickly to a light matte shimmer. There's also no offensively tropical or even notable aroma. Despite the light touch, this spray is effective. I've had minor redness from missed spots (the clear application can make it hard to see), but no major burns while wearing Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Body Mist. ★★★★ out of five — Eva Wasney SPF 30, $15 for 177 ml Sun Bum Original Sunscreen Lotion They say: This moisturizing sunscreen formula will protect your skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays while enriching your skin with Vitamin E, an antioxidant that helps to neutralize free radicals, which are the main cause of premature skin aging. Broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection, hypoallergenic, oxybenzone and octinoxate free, cruelty free, vegan, oil free, paraben free, gluten free, PABA free, water resistant (80 minutes). But does it live up to the hype? We say: I always go for a lotion as as I've been burned (literally) before by sprays, whose application feels dodgy to me. This is quite a creamy, thick forumla that looks as if it's going to take forever to soak in, but it actually goes on very smoothly, absorbs well and leaves your skin with a nice glow — not entirely matte, but not greasy (an improvement on my usual Hawaiian Tropic, which has faint sparkles, so you look like Edward in Twilight). It has a mild but very pleasant banana scent; the company actually makes an air freshener for fans of the fragrance. I am prone to burning, especially on my chest. I wore this all day at the beach (about six hours in the sun, reapplied once after swimming) and not a hint of a burn, not even on my nose, which often gets red. It's more expensive than what I usually buy, but you get what you pay for in this case. I will be trying the face formula, as I really like the texture and smell. Note: When they say not to apply near your eyes, they are not joking. I did sweat some off into my eye and it watered for the entire day and was visibly irritated — but that's on me. ★★★★ 1/2 out of five — Jill Wilson AV KitchingReporter AV Kitching is an arts and life writer at the Free Press. She has been a journalist for more than two decades and has worked across three continents writing about people, travel, food, and fashion. Read more about AV. Every piece of reporting AV produces is reviewed by an editing team before it is posted online or published in print — part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates. Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber. Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.
Winnipeg Free Press
4 days ago
- Winnipeg Free Press
Keen sense of scents brings deeper appreciation
Opinion Humans tend to only pick up five tastes on our tongues — sour, bitter, sweet, salty and umami — leaving our olfactory system to do a lot of heavy lifting in teasing out the subtle (and not-so-subtle) differences in wine (and everything else we consume). While some people can rattle off descriptors about the smell of a wine with ease, others might sniff a Merlot and simply say, 'It smells like wine.' But there are ways you can train your nose (and your brain) to unpack what's in your glass. PEXELS Get specific about what scents you're detecting in your wine. If you're picking up a floral note, try to determine what flower you're smelling. Get specific about what scents you're detecting in your wine. If you're picking up a floral note, try to determine what flower you're smelling. Here are five ways I've honed my olfactory senses over the years that have helped me in my craft, and in the process have provided a deeper appreciation of wine, beer and food. Author Malcolm Gladwell said (to paraphrase) that if you put 10,000 hours of time into working on anything, you'll become an expert in that field. I've been sticking my nose in wine glasses professionally since the mid-1990s, first working at wine stores and then as the Free Press drinks writer. I have no idea how many hours that amounts to, but I'm certain that my ability to pick out subtle aromatic elements in wine and other drinks has improved — and continues to improve — with practice. One of the best workouts for your nose is at the grocery store. The produce department's a great place to sniff your way through many of the core aromatic components found in wines. You might discover the peachy notes you're picking up in an Aussie Chardonnay are actually nectarine, and that yes, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc does in fact bring elements of green pepper and grapefruit. Closer to home, give your nose a workout in the kitchen cupboard. Give that bottle of vanilla and jar of cloves a sniff, then keep those smells in mind the next time you taste an oaky white wine. Stick your nose in a box of black tea bags, then look for those same aromas in a tannic red wine. Explore the differences between savoury and baking spices (carefully, lest you collapse into a sneezing fit). Picking up primary plum, blueberry and violet aromas is normal when sniffing a Merlot — but what if you had three or five or more Merlots in front of you? How would you describe the differences? Trying multiple wines made from the same grape or region is the easiest way to suss out subtle differences between wines, often a result of how they were made, the climate/soil in which the grapes were grown, etc. So you're picking up floral notes in a Pinot Grigio: is it a rose? A violet? Baby's breath? Is that apple note you're smelling more like a red or green apple, or a tart crabapple? Is it the flesh of the fruit, or its skin and seeds? Or is it more like apple candy? Drill down and see where it takes you. First impressions go a long way in my own assessment of a wine and tend to be some of the most specific descriptors — primarily because they tend to be associated with a memory. Descriptors such as Tootsie Roll, beach ball, chalk, banana candy and the like are common in my notes, and more than once I've picked up hints of the Nonsuch in an Old World red aged in oak. Then there are the oddballs including (but not limited to) finding notes of pleather, or dirty diaper, or armpit (or, conversely, Speed Stick), petting zoo or black forest cake. Always leave enough room in your glass to give your wine a vigorous swirl before shoving your nose in — it helps release the aromatic components in a wine and goes a long way in the enjoyment of what's in your glass. And make sure a wine isn't too warm or cold. Explore the ways a chilled wine's aromas change as it sits out on the counter and warms up. Or give a red wine a sniff and taste at room temperature, then pop it in the fridge for 10-15 minutes (as I almost always do) to see/smell/taste how it changes. Every Second Friday The latest on food and drink in Winnipeg and beyond from arts writers Ben Sigurdson and Eva Wasney. uncorked@ @bensigurdson OTU Wines 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand — $20.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) Pale straw in colour, with grapefruit pith, gooseberry, tart lime and bell pepper aromas. Light-bodied and bone dry, with bell pepper/grassy notes alongside tart grapefruit and modest gooseberry flavours, hints of lime juice, bracing acidity and, at 13 per cent alcohol, a brisk finish. Fresh and lively, but could use a touch more ripeness. 3/5 Penley 2021 Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon (Coonawarra, Australia — $22.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) Inky purple in colour, with fresh violet, eucalyptus, cassis, blackberry and subtle dark chocolate aromas. Dry and full-bodied, brimming with fresh red currant, blackberry and eucalyptus along with secondary cracked pepper and black licorice, modest acidity and tannins and, at 14.5 per cent alcohol, a slightly warm finish. Delicious — drink or hold for two to three years. 4.5/5 Leaning Post 2022 The Fifty Chardonnay (Niagara Peninsula, Ont. — $26.99, Liquor Marts and beyond) Made by former Winnipeggers Nadia and Ilya Senchuk in the Niagara Peninsula, this wine is pale straw in colour and aromatically brings fresh red apple, peach pie, lemon zest and hints of chalk and toasted nuts. It's dry and light-plus-bodied, with a creamy texture from having been aged on lees in concrete tanks for nine months. Brilliant red apple, peach, pear and lemon candy notes, with a hint of spice lingering on the modest finish (it's 12.5 per cent alcohol). Elegant and exceptional. 4.5/5 Ben SigurdsonLiterary editor, drinks writer Ben Sigurdson is the Free Press's literary editor and drinks writer. He graduated with a master of arts degree in English from the University of Manitoba in 2005, the same year he began writing Uncorked, the weekly Free Press drinks column. He joined the Free Press full time in 2013 as a copy editor before being appointed literary editor in 2014. Read more about Ben. In addition to providing opinions and analysis on wine and drinks, Ben oversees a team of freelance book reviewers and produces content for the arts and life section, all of which is reviewed by the Free Press's editing team before being posted online or published in print. It's part of the Free Press's tradition, since 1872, of producing reliable independent journalism. Read more about Free Press's history and mandate, and learn how our newsroom operates. Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber. Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.
Winnipeg Free Press
6 days ago
- Winnipeg Free Press
Manitoba seeks to grow innovation, investment in bioscience sector
The province is launching a new clinical trials office to fast-track health research and creating an initiative to grow Manitoba's bioscience sector. Research Improvements Through Harmonization in Manitoba (RITHIM) will bring industry partners together to streamline the review system so research projects can be approved faster and more efficiently. The new electronic system will also create a single co-ordinated application process. MLAs Renée Cable, Jamie Moses and Mike Moroz made the announcement Wednesday at Red River College Polytechnic's Notre Dame Avenue campus in Winnipeg. MIKE DEAL / FREE PRESS Advanced Education and Training Minister Renée Cable speaks at a press conference Wednesday with fellow ministers, Innovation and New Technology Minister Mike Moroz, left, and Business, Mining, Trade and Job Creation Minister Jamie Moses at the RRC Simulation Centre, where they announced the provincial government's launch of a new clinical trials office to fast-track health research and the new Research Improvements Through Harmonization in Manitoba (RITHIM) project to grow Manitoba's bioscience sector. RITHIM and the clinical trials office will make it 'easier, faster and more efficient' for innovation and investment in the biosciences field in Manitoba, said Cable, the advanced education and training minister. It will create jobs and signal to students in Manitoba there is a space for people who want to work in biosciences and do cutting-edge research in the province, she added. The clinical trials office will build on Manitoba's strength as Canada's second-largest pharmaceutical exporter and a hub for biotech innovation, said Moses, who noted Manitoba's biosciences sector adds $5.2 billion to the provincial GDP. 'We have a homegrown network of researchers (and) innovators … that are thriving and driving innovation and new health-care diagnostics and therapeutics right here in Manitoba,' said Moses, the business, mining, trade and job creation minister. 'This clinical trial office will help us leverage their success to even more strengths and success in the future and, on top of that, will attract new investment into our province.' Research Manitoba, the provincial agency that promotes the funding of research, will lead RITHIM. RITHIM director Liz Lylyk described the initiative as unique across Canada and said it will harmonize ethics, privacy and health institutional review processes to streamline health research approvals in Manitoba. The project will create an ecosystem where researchers can focus on science, accelerate innovation and get solutions to the population faster, Lylyk said. 'RITHIM will be an essential element of growing health research here in Manitoba, leading to economic and social prosperity, as well as significant improvements in the health and well-being of Manitobans.' The province's biosciences sector is largely unknown but delivers more than 14,000 jobs to Manitobans, said Andrea Ladouceur, Bioscience Association Manitoba president and CEO. 'Research can have a long runway in its pursuit of being available to all,' she said. 'RITHIM is a key component in helping us make sure that that process is done properly and within reasonable timelines.' The government is investing $100,000 this year in the new clinical trials office, Moses said. The investment is part of Manitoba's 2025-26 budget. Monday Mornings The latest local business news and a lookahead to the coming week. RITHIM and the clinical trials office will create more opportunities for businesses to invest in Manitoba, Moses added. 'Not only is this a signal that we're ready to break down barriers to make sure investment happens in Manitoba quicker, but we're also able to work in partnership with industry to understand their needs, listen to them and make sure that we take concrete action to make sure our Manitoba economy continues to grow,' he said. 'At the same time, it's going to improve health-care outcomes for Manitobans.' Wednesday's briefing followed last month's announcement the province is giving Research Manitoba an annual $5-million funding top-up. Aaron EppReporter Aaron Epp reports on business for the Free Press. After freelancing for the paper for a decade, he joined the staff full-time in 2024. He was previously the associate editor at Canadian Mennonite. Read more about Aaron. Our newsroom depends on a growing audience of readers to power our journalism. If you are not a paid reader, please consider becoming a subscriber. Our newsroom depends on its audience of readers to power our journalism. Thank you for your support.
