Too Many Critics: charity restaurant event returns to raise vital funds for Action Against Hunger
This year, Too Many Critics will take place at Roe in Canary Wharf, with the Standard's restaurant critic David Ellis returning for a third time, joining a line-up including Tom Parker Bowles (Mail on Sunday), Hannah Twiggs (Independent) and Kate Krader (Bloomberg). Alongside them will be Leonie Cooper (Time Out), CODE and The Good Food Guide publisher Adam Hyman and Molly Codyre (Foodism).
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Times
a day ago
- Times
The Fat Badger review: ‘The genius is that it seems so simple — it isn't'
The doorman greets us at an inconspicuous side door. He shows us upstairs to a wood-panelled bar, where a cool jazz band are performing to an audience that seems to consist of the forty best-looking people in the postcode. That's saying something — in this part of the capital, if you drink the water you get Botox by proxy. I'd been holding off going to the Fat Badger. In fact, I was actively grumpy with it. An article appeared in the Standard a few months ago calling it 'London's invite-only pub' and I thought, 'Screw them. I live in the best restaurant city in the world, with a gem on every corner yearning for my custom. I'm not begging to get into your silly cool-kids-only treehouse.' Actually, that's not what I thought. What I thought was, 'Oh no, I've not been invited to the party.' And I felt a bit sad. Then I forgot all about it. Until now. It turns out that the Fat Badger is not an invite-only pub. They let everyone in, even me. The chef — George Williams, formerly of the excellent Bull at Charlbury and only in his early thirties —came over to explain. At first it wasn't open to the public as the kitchen was still experimenting. Williams used friends as guinea pigs for his dishes, some of which, he says, were 'not very good at all'. The dishes, not the friends. It wasn't an invite-only pub, it was a soft launch. • Charlotte Ivers: Lury, Hastings, restaurant review — 'I implore you to go' This was, admittedly, a foolhardy idea. The Fat Badger is part of the Public House Group, the company behind many of London's most fashionable new restaurants — the Hero, the Pelican, Canteen. When customers got wind that PHG was opening somewhere new, they all wanted to go. And poor Williams has spent two months assuring angry punters that he wasn't running an invite-only pub. I'm choosing to believe him, mainly because running an invite-only pub would be an utterly deranged business choice. So come one, come all. And thank goodness, because for my money Williams is one of the best chefs of his generation. I've suspected this since I went to the Bull last year and ate lentils far more thrilling than lentils have any right to be. The Fat Badger confirms it. Upstairs from the jazz bar, in a low-ceilinged, log cabin-style room with an open kitchen, we are checked for allergies and told to await whatever food arrives. • Charlotte Ivers: Noodle and Beer review — 'It's a little bit magical' And arrive it does. Little tacos made from thin slices of celeriac, containing a strip of mackerel and bright tomatillo salsa. A second set, with crunchy nuggets of veal sweetbread, makes me gasp with joy. Sodabread, almost treacley, and whipped butter. Then tiny slivers of pigeon on toast, with a burnt apple relish. They taste like sweet, rich, delicately burnt toast: charcoally and full of childhood memories. Then the starter arrives — a fillet of turbot in a puddle of foamy lobster bisque with firm, bright peas that are somehow the star of the show. As with those lentils at the Bull, peas have no right to be the star of any show; particularly not a show including lobster. For the main, a fat, pink fillet steak with morels (guests on their second visit are offered pork chops, to keep the menu varied). On the side, hasselback potatoes and an elegant green salad, seemingly made up of everything left in the fridge: flame-grilled asparagus, pickled radish, beetroot, courgette, a selection of leaves. It works so well. At heart this is just steak, potatoes and salad. The genius of this place is that it all seems so simple. It isn't: all the ingredients are so cleverly balanced, so frequently surprising. • Charlotte Ivers: One Club Row review — 'Nowhere on earth could possibly be more fun' Dessert is three dishes to share: honey tart (almost a flan), strawberry ripple knickerbocker glory (too sweet for me) and strawberry and basil sorbet (delicious). I can barely eat more than a spoonful of each. That's my only criticism (apart from the three flights of stairs to the loo). It's a big old production and £85 a head before the service charge, or the cheapest bottle of wine (mildly upsettingly: £65). But then the day after I went they announced they are starting lunch service; at £55, with a lighter menu. Such is the power of my pen, no doubt, that they'd answered my criticism before I even wrote it. Look, this is still more a place for a special treat than a casual Tuesday lunch. But the Fat Badger is absolutely worth it. And the best part? Everyone's invited.★★★★★
Time Out
7 days ago
- Time Out
The Standard is going full-retro with a snazzy Soda Shop pop-up this summer
The Standard High Line is cranking the nostalgia to full blast with its summer pop-up: The Standard Soda Shop, opening Monday, June 23, on the hotel's plaza in the Meatpacking District. Inspired by 1950s Americana but very much a product of the trend-savvy Standard playbook, the experience blends classic diner kitsch with summer-in-the-city spectacle. At the center of it all is an 18-foot circular soda bar shaded by candy-colored umbrellas and flanked by a refurbished Airstream—aka the Standard Softee Truck—dishing out soft serve. The plaza will also host lawn games, drive-in-style movie nights and a pie counter that moonlights as a DJ booth (because of course it does). The menu leans into comfort food with flair: You'll find everything from a hash-brown-laced "Morning Sandwich Deluxe" and all-beef "Hot Diggity Dog" with spicy sloppy joe meat, to over-the-top "Tuna Salad Deluxe" on a pretzel bun with dill pickle shoestring fries. There's also a full suite of "Rise & Grind" breakfast classics, mini corn dogs, buffalo cauliflower and the kind of waffle cheese fries that practically beg to be eaten while sitting on a curb in the summer heat. Drinks are equally playful. You can order a homemade soda like the fennel-and-dill 'Better Root Beer' or the 'Cherry Cheesecake' float or spike them with gin or rum for grown-up kicks. Milkshakes are, naturally, on the menu, alongside cocktails like the Lana Americana (whiskey, cherry cordial, cola) and a brown buttered bourbon 'Short Stack Old Fashioned.' There's even a Pickle Martini for anyone brave (or Brooklyn) enough. The Standard's new Soda Shop is tailor-made for summer Instagram moments and lazy hangs. It's retro, it's ridiculous and it's ridiculously fun—just the kind of buzzy escapism that keeps The Standard High Line a downtown staple.
Metro
7 days ago
- Metro
Noel and Liam Gallagher's mum reveals her role as secret 'instigator' of reunion
Noel and Liam Gallagher's mother Peggy Gallagher 'instigated' their reconciliation when she told them to not Look Back in Anger and 'get on with it', she has revealed. Bickering brothers Liam, 52, and Noel, 58, hadn't spoken since Oasis' split following their big fall out in 2009, but announced their historic reunion last year ending fans' excruciating wait. The Mancunian stars are currently preparing for their reunion tour, largely thanks to their mum Peggy, she has revealed in a recent interview. While Peggy urged the Wonderwall hitmakers to put their differences aside, she insisted she couldn't have made them do anything they didn't want to do. She told Ireland's Mail on Sunday newspaper: 'I was the instigator, yes. But sure, wasn't it always going to happen at some time or other? 'It was their choice, of course. 'Look you can't force them to do things they don't want to do. 'You just have to say, 'Get on with it' and I said that.' The 82-year-old matriarch is relieved her warring sons have finally made up. She said: 'It's great, because nobody wants their kids falling out, do they?' Off the back of their new found peace, Peggy is looking forward to seeing Noel and Liam back on stage together this summer. But she admitted: 'I'll be glad when it's all just over because it makes me get too stressed.' Mayo-born Peggy is hoping to travel to Dublin to see Oasis perform in Croke Park, but she has just had a knee replacement operation so is currently unsure as to whether she will be fit enough to make the journey from her home in Manchester. She said: 'I'm hoping to get to the Oasis concert in Dublin in August if I can hobble around. That's my plan anyway… it will be great. To view this video please enable JavaScript, and consider upgrading to a web browser that supports HTML5 video 'I know the Irish fans are thrilled about it. There's great excitement in Ireland about the reunion tour and it will be lovely to see family there, also my sister Kathleen. I am really looking forward to the Dublin one.' Peggy – who also plans to see her sons at their homecoming shows in Manchester – knows the road to recovery will be long. She said: 'It's still sore. I'm sick of bloody exercising it, up and down the stairs, they say it takes anything up to nine months to be right again… I am finding it hard going up and down the stairs. Still, we have to get there, we have to get on with it.' While her sons are multi-millionaires, Peggy insists on remaining in her same modest council house in Manchester, surrounded by friends and her familiar haunts. The only thing she asked the brothers to do was replace her garden gate, the outlet reports. This comes after Liam told a fan on X that he considered the famous feud with Noel as 'wasted' years. A fan on X asked: 'How does it feel singing songs with ur brother again? Like old times?' To this Liam replied with his regret: 'You know what it's spiritual but I can't help think about all those wasted years what a waste of PRECIOUS time.' More Trending Just a month short of 16 years since Noel announced he could no longer work with his brother Liam, the Britpop legends will be taking to the stage once more on July 5. They are performing in Cardiff, before heading to their native Manchester for a five-night run, and London's Wembley Stadium at the end of the month. Edinburgh and Dublin dates are set for August, before Noel and Liam head over to kick off the North America leg of their tour. The brothers will be back – if all goes to plan – to perform two more Wembley shows in September. Got a story? If you've got a celebrity story, video or pictures get in touch with the entertainment team by emailing us celebtips@ calling 020 3615 2145 or by visiting our Submit Stuff page – we'd love to hear from you. MORE: Liam and Noel Gallagher pictured together for first time since Oasis reunion news MORE: Liam Gallagher hits back after Oasis fans branded 'fat, drunk and rowdy' MORE: Scouting For Girls star has unique reaction to Noel Gallagher's scathing diss
