How to experience northern Somerset without a Glastonbury ticket
For decades, Somerset was chiefly famous for three things — cider, cheddar cheese and 'scrumpy and western' band The Wurzels, whose musical homage to the combine harvester landed them a 1976 number one. Glastonbury Festival's rise to prominence gradually shifted the dial on the county's profile — taking it from agricultural to alternative and, latterly, decidedly cool. Those who visit today will find it a delightful mix of all three.
The northern half of the county borders the city of Bristol but offers dramatic rural landscapes in abundance. Cheddar Gorge in the Mendip Hills is the closest thing the UK's got to the Grand Canyon, while the Somerset Wetlands National Nature Reserve — England's third largest — extends from the windswept coast at Bridgwater Bay to the atmospheric Avalon Marshes. One theory about the origin of Somerset's name is that it has roots in the Old English word Somersæte, meaning 'summerlands' — historically, winter flooding would likely have rendered it mostly uninhabitable over winter. In the intervening centuries, thriving market towns like Frome and villages constructed from honey-hued stone have emerged among the wilds. Hop off the train at Castle Cary and you'll find The Creamery, the track-side restaurant with elevated pub grub. Photograph by Newt in Somerset The Creamery is run by the Newt hotel, housed in a restored dairy which still makes its own cheese. Photograph by Newt in Somerset
The summer music festival to which Glastonbury gave its name actually takes place on farmland six miles east, with the town itself embracing a quieter, more spiritual way of life. Its abbey is said to be the burial place of King Arthur himself, while its high street is a centre of New Age mysticism, featuring its own witchcraft emporium and countless incense-scented shops offering tarot readings and healing crystals. By contrast Bruton, with its clutch of farm-to-table restaurants and cutting-edge arts spaces, has become a byword for Somerset's new era. In between, endless one-pub settlements provide a reliably warm West Country welcome. Where's the best place for food?
Railway stations aren't ordinarily associated with culinary excellence — but Castle Cary bucks the trend. Opened last summer, track-side restaurant The Creamery is run by the nearby Newt hotel — generally considered one of the best in the country — and housed in a restored dairy which still makes its own cheese. The halloumi-style Sutton Brue is just one highlight from its menu of elevated pub grub, served at booth-style tables in an exquisite, green-tiled interior.
While you're here, it would be remiss not to sample Somerset's finest exports direct from their source. Westcombe Dairy supplies Neal's Yard and offers tours — be sure to request a demo of its cheese wheel-flipping robot, 'Tina the Turner' — and tastings of its clothbound cheddar or creamy ricotta, both made from raw milk produced by its own cows. Add a sourdough loaf from Landrace Bakery next door, and you've got the makings of a picnic. Next, drive 40 minutes west to Wilkins Cider in Mudgley, where you'll likely find Roger Wilkins in the farmyard, ever ready to serve up a jar and a yarn. The hill of Glastonbury Tor is considered an important pagan site, making it a popular place to see in sunrise on the morning of the summer solstice: 21 June. Photograph by Getty Images, Barbara Neal Tell me where to head for mind-expanding, festival-like fun.
Get your bearings at Glastonbury Tor, which has views over the Somerset Levels and into the neighbouring counties of Wiltshire and Dorset. It's a steep half-hour hike to the top, so pause awhile among the ruins of the 15th-century chapel of St Michael. The hill is also considered an important pagan site, making it a popular place to see in sunrise on the morning of the summer solstice: 21 June. After descending, stop for a hydrating sip of the iron-rich waters at Chalice Well, set within peaceful gardens.
It's a half-hour drive east to Bruton — after exploring the town's slender high street, filled with gabled houses and independent shops, head to the outskirts to visit Hauser & Wirth at Durslade Farm, a contemporary art gallery set among the restored stone buildings of a working farm. After taking in the exhibits and sculpture-filled perennial garden, head to the Roth Bar: part site-specific work, part purveyor of coffee and cocktails. The Swan combines a neutral palette with countryside charm and wallpaper etched with birds that evoke Somerset's famous starling murmurations. Photograph by James Eastham Where's a good place to stay?
At striking distance from both Wilkins Cider and Cheddar Gorge, The Swan at Wedmore is a restored 18th-century coaching inn with exceptionally friendly staff (from £98, B&B). Its spacious garden, edged by tall trees, is a delightful place to while away a sunny afternoon sampling local ales and wood-fired sourdough pizzas topped with Glastonbury mozzarella. When night draws in, retreat to one of the seven rooms upstairs, which combine a neutral palette with countryside texture — quilted coverlets, traditional florals and wallpaper etched with birds that evoke Somerset's famous starling murmurations. The pub downstairs comprises a cosy bar and separate dining room, where menus make abundant use of the area's culinary calling cards — there's also a pop-up weekend bakery, which sells stellar sausage rolls and artisanal bread made over at sister property At the Chapel in Bruton. If you're keen to replicate the festival experience and sleep under canvas, consider booking one of the three safari-style tents at Hadspen Glamping, just south of Bruton (from £200, two-night minimum stay). There are direct trains from London, Plymouth and Bristol to Castle Cary, the closest mainline train station to Glastonbury, but as the region is mostly rural, you'll have more freedom to explore with a car. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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National Geographic
6 hours ago
- National Geographic
Why the Albanian Riviera is perfect for a road trip
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Running down the country's southwestern flank, from the city of Vlorë in the north to the village of Ksamil, the Albanian Riviera has been proclaimed the Maldives of Europe. It's true that countless white-sand beaches dot a coastline of dazzling blue waters, from busy stretches backed by modern resorts to secluded coves. But the Riviera is about more than just the sea; there are traditional villages clinging to hillsides covered by centuries-old olive groves, and ancient ruins alongside remnants of the country's communist past. Reaching the area is now easier than ever thanks to an increasing number of direct flights connecting the UK with Albania's capital, Tirana, a two-hour drive from Vlorë. You can then head south along the SH8, the Riviera's main coastal road, keeping the glistening Ionian Sea in your peripheral vision almost all the way. The region's highlights can be explored in a weekend, but stop for longer to discover more of its archaeological treasures and while away unhurried afternoons lounging on its lesser-known beaches. The shallow waters of Lake Butrint are ideal for harvesting mussels. Photograph by Alamy, Witold Skrypczak Day 1: History & hillside hideaways Morning: Start in Vlorë, Albania's third-largest city and the birthplace of the modern nation. In Flag's Square, the Independence Monument stands by the spot where the Albanian flag was first raised in 1912, marking the end of centuries of Ottoman rule. To learn more, head down Boulevard Ismail Qemali, named after Albania's first prime minister, to the National Museum of Independence, which traces the key events and players behind the country's self-rule. Then, drive five miles south along the waterfront, past the point at which the seas shift from Adriatic to Ionian, for lunch at Qendra e Peshkimit in the village of Radhimë. Select from the fresh catch displayed on the front-of-house market stall, and enjoy it overlooking the small harbour. Afternoon: Walk off your lunch in Llogara National Park, an hour's drive south of Vlorë. The Caesar's Pass trail starts outside Hotel Sofo Llogara and follows the route Julius Caesar is said to have taken in pursuit of Pompey, a Roman general and Caesar's bitter rival. The half-hour climb snakes through pine forest, culminating at a platform with views over the Bay of Vlorë. The road out of the mountains offers the first sight of the beaches, but resist their temptation and carry on to the bay of Porto Palermo. A fortress, built in 1804 by Ottoman ruler Ali Pasha, guards the entrance to the bay's natural harbour. Tours take in passageways and gloomy chambers, including a frighteningly dark dungeon. Evening: Continue heading south for a stroll along the lamp-lit promenade between the bright bars and pebbled beach of Qeparo Fushë village. Sunset Boulevard Cocktail bar mixes exceptional mojitos with local limes and is a great spot in which to watch the sun set beyond the Greek island of Corfu, which lies just west of the Albanian coast. A short drive into the hills leads to the village of Qeparo Fshat, which presents a more traditional way of life. After the fall of communism, it shrunk, but its heart remains intact. At Ida & Xhorxhi Restaurant, Ida Thanasi knocks out whatever's fresh and seasonal for diners to eat on the vine-covered verandah, while husband Xhorxhi serves shots of raki out front. From the city of Vlorë in the north to the village of Ksamil, the Albanian Riviera has been proclaimed the Maldives of Europe. Photograph by Getty Images, Nejc Gostincar Day 2: Take to the water Morning: After a breakfast of fluffy petulla (fried dough fritters) and Turkish coffee back at Ida & Xhorxhi Restaurant, wander the steep lanes of Qeparo Fshat. Many of the rundown houses are being rebuilt using materials reclaimed from other abandoned properties, to preserve the village's original aesthetic. Alleyways lead to panoramic viewpoints, overlooking either the coast or mountain valleys. Get back on the SH8, hugging the hillsides above the sea, before turning onto an unpaved track (immediately before the 'Lukove' road sign) leading to Buneci Beach. The gentle waters here are ideal for plunging into from the stone jetty, or exploring via kayak or standup paddleboard (rentals are available from the middle of the beach). Afternoon: Follow the track along Buneci as far south as it will go for a lunch of grilled sea bream under the straw roof of Taverna Nikolas. Then, divert away from the coast to the Blue Eye spring. It bubbles up from deep below the Bistricë river, creating an iris-like dark pool within the blue-green of the shallower surrounds. Once, only former dictator Enver Hoxha and senior Communist Party officials were permitted to visit, but it's now one of Albania's more popular sites (expect it to get busy in summer). A 20-minute walk from the car park leads to an observation deck giving the best views down into the abyss. Swimming in the Blue Eye isn't permitted, but you can brave the bracingly cold river just a short walk downstream. Evening: Return towards the coast, making for Lake Butrint. Its shallow, brackish waters are perfect for growing mussels, and farmer Soraldo Nebo runs boat tours to demonstrate how the shellfish has been harvested here for centuries. Afterwards, watch him prepare the molluscs — steamed in a garlic broth, or salted and grilled — and put some to the test, accompanied by a glass of Albanian white wine. See out the day a half-hour drive away on the private beach of Kep Merli resort, hidden away on the fringes of busy Ksamil village. Only a strict number of day visitors are allowed at the beach bar; book ahead to sip cocktails lounging on the softest sand of the Riviera. Over 2,500 years of history are layered over the ancient city of Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage Site at the southern end of the Riviera Photograph by Getty Images, Master2 Three archaeological sites to visit Orikum On the road to Orikum, at the southern end of the Bay of Vlorë, there's little to suggest a historical site lies just ahead. Fragments of communist-era bunkers pile up at the roadside, repurposed as coastal defences; horses graze near abandoned barracks. But that's quickly forgotten as you turn into the park, once an important trading port, where successive empires have left their mark since the sixth century. Crumbling blocks of a Hellenistic harbour sink into the lagoon, backed by perimeter walls reinforced during the Byzantine era. Hillside paths link Roman houses to a Greek theatre. Even Julius Caesar was here in 48 BCE, overseeing the post during his civil war campaign against Pompey. Finiq Occupying a hilltop position close to the city of Sarandë, overlooking the surrounding valleys and plains, Finiq was a major centre of the ancient Greek kingdom of Epirus. It sees fewer visitors than other archaeological parks in the area, but it's blessed with natural beauty, with a blanket of wildflowers blooming yellow, pink, white and blue among the ancient blocks. A curving Hellenistic theatre sits within a fold of the hill, once perfectly positioned acoustically; today, it echoes the clang of goat bells across the valleys. Contrasting with the remnants of antiquity, a small complex of communist-era bunkers, connected by a network of tunnels, makes for an interesting subterranean scramble. Butrint Over 2,500 years of history are layered over this ancient city, a UNESCO World Heritage Site at the southern end of the Riviera. As is the case with Orikum, invading empires built on top of what had stood before, creating a mix of cultures and styles. Ancient Greek, Roman, Byzantine and Venetian buildings are all scattered within the enormous limestone perimeter walls, with more being unearthed every year. At its peak, as many as 16,000 people lived here, making use of Roman baths, a forum and a nymphaeum (structures dedicated to nymphs). Most impressive are the remains of the Roman aqueduct, which once extended far across Lake Butrint, bringing spring water from distant hills. How to do it , with a small pool, sleeps five in Qeparo Fshat. From £190. Local specialist Albanian Trip can provide bespoke itineraries and guided tours. This story was created with the support of Fly directly via RyanAir or WizzAir to Tirana from London, Edinburgh or Manchester, then it's a two-hour drive to Vlorë. Alternatively, fly to Corfu and catch a 45-minute ferry to Sarandë. Buses serve the SH8 down the Riviera, but renting a car or travelling with a private driver gives more flexibility. Villa Bougainvillier , with a small pool, sleeps five in Qeparo Fshat. From £ specialist Albanian Trip can provide bespoke itineraries and guided story was created with the support of Albanian Trip National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click Published in the July/August 2025 issue of(UK).To subscribe to(UK) magazine click here . (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
European cities are embracing adventure. Here's how you can get involved
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Packing for a city break used to involve comfortable shoes, a smart casual outfit or two, a big appetite and a sturdy liver. Indulgence was the focus, with a little light sightseeing to ward off the gout. The contents of today's carry-ons can look very different: swimsuits, trainers, hiking boots, waterproofs, sports kit and perhaps even a little Lycra. And that's because, in many of our favourite European cities, there's an awful lot more than tasting menus and artisanal wine to get stuck into. Cycle paths and jogging trails are now standard — an integral part of all but the most overtly sedentary cities. However, in recent years, a whole host of outdoor urban adventures have been added, offering visitors a fresh perspective that's both exhilarating and endorphin-fuelled. Paddleboard through the ancient heart of Ljubljana. Abseil off a bridge 230ft above the Douro in Porto. Swim in a converted barge in Berlin. Surf in a former canal in Rotterdam. Kayak past 13th-century palaces in Stockholm. Ski down, or clamber up, a power plant in Copenhagen. The options are as varied as they're innovative. Elsewhere, travellers can blend their sightseeing with stadium climbs and rooftop hikes, freerunning adventures, canoe excursions, e-bike expeditions and — in certain coastal cities — an introduction to e-foiling (surfing without all the strenuous paddling). So, what's driving this change? A post-pandemic focus on both physical and mental health, certainly. A recent report by Neilson Beach Clubs, who have resorts across Europe, including Greece, Croatia and Sardinia, found that more than three-quarters of those polled now embrace activity on holiday — a pattern which is mirrored in the city-break sector. 'With health and fitness now such an integral part of our culture, people are turning to holidays that have an emphasis on wellbeing over traditional sightseeing,' says the CEO of Neilson, David Taylor. In Slovenia, paddleboarders can often be seen making their way down the Ljubljanica River on a sunny day. Photograph by Getty Images, Robert Pavsic Lena Andersson started Go! Running Tours in Copenhagen in 2013. A dozen years on, the sightjogging company, which combines running with sightseeing, operates in nearly 80 cities worldwide — more than half of them in Europe. The running boom only partly explains the proliferation, she thinks; for every habitual jogger she and her network of guides cater for, there are plenty of new runners looking to enliven their city break with something unusual and immersive. 'Visitors want to get beneath the surface of a city,' she says. 'They want to mix, interact and connect with a local, get tips and recommendations. By the end of a tour, someone will have seen the main sites, sure, but they'll also know all about the guide who accompanied them. They'll uncover their go-to coffee spots and favourite restaurants.' While some city breakers are bringing their active lifestyles with them, others are being nudged this way by the destinations themselves. Facilitated by warmer climes, more hours of sunshine or 'human-centred' urban planning, many of Europe's city-break destinations have activity in their DNA. And it's something visitors increasingly want to experience. 'People don't come to Copenhagen for big tourist attractions, as we don't really have those,' says Giuseppe Liverino, of Wonderful Copenhagen, the Danish capital's tourism board. 'They come for the lifestyle. Cycling everywhere, renting a kayak, taking a sea swim or an ice dip followed by a sauna. These aren't contrived activities — this is what the locals do. These days, what visitors want is a blend of authentic and 'outside the box' experiences.' CopenHill is a unique waste-to-energy plant in Copenhagen with a ski slope and climbing wall on its roof. Photograph by Amélie Louys Giving back Lena believes environmental sensitivities feed into the trend. 'If you're coming to a city and you're using your own power to get around, that's reducing the impact on that place,' she says. Some visitors go further and seek to have a net positive effect. GreenKayak is a scheme that operates in around 20 European cities, allowing visitors to borrow a craft in exchange for collecting litter. To date, nearly 85,000 people have taken part. 'It's a triple win,' says founder Tobias Weber-Andersen. 'People get to be active, explore the city in a new way and give something back to the destination. You feel you're contributing.' Outdoor adventures have another benefit, particularly in our financially straitened times: affordability. Plan a city-break itinerary around landmark attractions, stage shows and destination restaurants and costs can quickly spiral. Go for a swim, grab a rental bike, a paddleboard or go rollerblading and the costs will be comparatively modest. For those who are time poor, it also showcases more, in less time. The subtle but inescapable twinning of sport and destination marketing also feeds into the interest in active urban adventures. From Barcelona welcoming the America's Cup to Paris hosting the Olympics last year, cities now woo big sporting events in the same way that brands have always courted big-name sports stars. Why? Because it puts them in the global spotlight, positions them as dynamic and active, and guarantees a generous flow of similarly minded visitors downstream. Inevitably, social media plays its part. No one posts about a straightforward walking tour they went on; an eye-catching urban adventure is where the kudos lies (literally, in the case of the Strava app), and destinations are responding accordingly, dreaming up offerings that they know will generate traction on Instagram and other platforms. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, says Tobias. 'We encourage people to use social media,' he says. 'They can feel happy and proud about being active and doing something a little different. And we get the message across that our cities are something that need to be looked after.' With almost 340 miles of cycle paths — and more being added all the time — Copenhagen is often ranked as the world's most bicycle-friendly capital. Photograph by Getty Images, Alexander Spatari Three action-packed cities to visit 1. Rotterdam While its northern neighbour, Amsterdam, wrestles with overtourism, the Netherlands' second-most visited city continues to refine what one might call 'optimised tourism'. Its obliteration by German bombing raids in the Second World War left post-war planners with what amounted to a blank canvas; the result is a city as open and efficient as it is young and dynamic, with lots of green spaces and waterways. Hike through the half-mile-long urban oasis of Dakpark, or Roof Park, so called because it's elevated to optimise views of the port and surrounding city. Alternatively, back on the ground, join the rollerbladers, skaters and runners navigating the paths through the forested Kralingse Bos on the fringe of the city. There are jogging trails and an athletics track that's open to the public at Roel Langerakpark and smooth cycle paths stitching the green spaces together. Urban swimming has been embraced in a big way, too. One of the best spots is Zwembad Rijnhaven, in the middle of the city, with sunbathing platforms and ladders into the water. Why go now? In keeping with the city's active and entrepreneurial spirit, the world's first outdoor urban surf pool opened last summer in a former canal overlooked by Rotterdam's neo-Renaissance city hall. A decade in the making, RIF0101 — named for the Dutch word for 'reef' and the postcode in which it's located — generates immaculate waves, provides lessons, board and wetsuit hire, and even has a bar with a sprawling terrace. Canoes and SUPs can also be hired to explore the waterways fanning out from the pool. Still got some energy left? The highest abseil in Europe is on offer at the towering Euromast, on the edge of tranquil Het Park, with a descent of almost 330ft. 2. Copenhagen In 2022, the Tour de France began with an eight-mile time trial through the streets of Copenhagen. Rarely has the race's country-hopping prelude been staged in a more apt location. The Danish capital is the most bike-centric of all European cities, the consequence of smart, livability-focused municipal planning. As a visitor, you can't help but get swept along. Hiring a bike is a breeze (most hotels as well as cycle shops rent them, or use apps such as Donkey Republic). With cars marginalised, the myriad of green spaces around the city are less polluted and full of trails for walking and running. Copenhagen hosts the world road-running championships next autumn, while 'plogging' — combining jogging and rubbish collection — is one of the activities that feature in the city's CopenPay initiative. Set to be expanded this summer, it offers visitors perks and free experiences in exchange for 'green' activities. Why go now? It's the reinvention of the former military and industrial harbour as a giant waterborne playground that really sets the tone. The water is clean enough to yield mussels and oysters for the city's restaurants and there are more than a dozen havnebadet (harbour baths). Outdoor pools such as Islands Brugge and Fisketorvet are popular year-round, despite the cold Scandic winters; and kayaking, waterskiing, canoeing, paddleboarding and other watersports are all on offer, too. CopenHill — a £500m world-first fusion of a green energy plant and an adventure centre — remains a huge draw. As well as a 1,640ft ski run and a climbing wall with dizzying views of the city, there's a landscaped hiking trail planted with 200 trees winding up to Copenhagen's highest viewing platform. As you burn off energy, the plant generates it. 3. Munich Perhaps it's the proximity to the Alps; or maybe its legacy of hosting huge sporting events. One thing is certain: this is a city that has activity in its veins. There are 745 miles of cycle paths, with 80% of Münchners estimated to own a bike, and dense pockets of green line the banks of the Isar, tempting both locals and visitors outdoors. Best known, perhaps, is the Englischer Garten — one of the largest urban parks in the world, and year-round, it's a hive of activity. In summer, river surfers tackle the white water of the Eisbach, which flows off the Isar; wooden rafts are paddled downstream; and bathers and picnickers converge on the white-sand beaches. In the winter months, the 3.5-mile cross-country ski trail that weaves through the floodplains of the river is a big draw. Horse-riding excursions are available, and there are nearly 50 miles of trails through the park for joggers and cyclists. Why go now? 'Two hours at high altitude' is how Munich's Olympic Stadium bills its roof-climb experience, high above the hallowed turf on which the 1972 Olympics, and the World Cup final two years later, were staged. The tour culminates — if you're daring enough — in a zip-line down to pitch level. For summer, the variety of pools and swimming spots within the city almost rivals Copenhagen. The Dantebad is heated to 30C throughout the year. Prinzregentenbad, across the Isar in the east of the city, has an outdoor pool and an adjacent river beach popular with volleyballers. And, for an alternative take on the palaces of Schloss Schleissheim and Schloss Nymphenburg, do as the Bavarian overlords once did and consider a ride in a Venetian gondola along the adjacent canals. After all that activity, a little sit down will be a welcome relief. Published in the European Cities Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
7 must-visit ancient sites everyone should see
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). If you're after must-see sights, the monuments of ancient civilisations are right at the top. And it's not just because their temples, tombs, cities and citadels are superlative feats of archaeology — it's because they're us. They reveal humanity that is different and awe-inspiring yet still relatable. You'll get the most out of these sites in the company of an expert guide (or audio guide) to make sense of what you're seeing and it's wise to pre-purchase tickets online to beat queues and guarantee entry. 1. Pyramids of Giza, Egypt It's the contrast that gets you. On one side is the monumental, 26th-century BCE Great Pyramid of Khufu and its two satellite pyramids in camel-coloured desert. On the other is the urban sprawl of Giza, which is why the Sphinx stares inscrutably at a glorified car park. The trick to visiting the Giza Plateau, on the Nile's west bank outside Cairo, is to pre-book a guide at your hotel. That way you'll be spared hassle from touts and hear 4,000 years of dynastic history told like a soap opera. Unless you're claustrophobic, ensure your ticket includes entry to the Great Pyramid; tickets are bought at the site entrance or online. Arrive for 8am when the site is cool and quieter, then retreat at noon into the new adjacent Grand Egyptian Museum. When visiting the Pyramids of Giza, you should factor in time to see the newly opened Grand Egyptian Museum. Photograph by Grand Egyptian Museum 2. Chichén Itzá, Mexico Roughly 2.5 million travellers a year visit the best-restored site of Maya Mexico; such is the peril of being close to the country's premier tourism resort, Cancún. You may have to queue to enter even with tickets booked online. Yet the biggest tip for a visit to this 800-acre complex of temples, palaces, games courts and the stepped Pyramid of Kukulcán (aka El Castillo) is to really engage with it. Spot swarms of close-knit interlocking figures across most surfaces and marvel at El Castillo, the Maya calendar in physical form, with 365 steps for each day and shadows at the equinoxes which make its stone serpents seem to come alive. Interact with the monuments and a visit becomes less about archaeology and more about the pre-Columbian Mesoamericans who called this place home. It deserves at least half a day. 3. Angkor Wat, Cambodia Everyone tells you dawn is the moment to discover the world's largest religious monument, a 12th-century CE Khmer temple complex, its towers a representation of the centre of Hindu cosmology. The problem is everyone also has the same idea. If you go, choose the West Gate over the classic East Gate. Bear in mind that, though the site itself opens at 5am, it takes 30 minutes from Siem Reap by tuk tuk. Your ticket buys you access to the 150sq mile Angkor Archaeological Park, including Bayon temple (quietest at lunchtime), known for its Buddhist faces, plus the jungle-choked ruins of Ta Prohm temple (visit in the hazy light of late afternoon). They're both over two miles from Angkor Wat, so buy a three-day ticket (it's valid for three entries over ten days) and rent a bike — more fun than a tuk tuk. You should plan in at least three days to explore the sprawling ancient complex of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Photograph by Kui; Getty Images 4. Acropolis, Athens Welcome to the ground zero of Western civilisation. From its hilltop complex in central Athens — the word acropolis means 'high city' — came democracy. The Parthenon here is not just a monumental temple to Athena, the Greek goddess of wisdom, it's the Doric-columned template for neoclassical architecture worldwide. Sculptures in the excellent Acropolis Museum date back to the 5th century BCE, which is astonishing. While summer temperatures can be a problem (visit early in the morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat), the main issue with the Acropolis is it can almost seem too familiar. Book a tour with a local guide like Alternative Athens to understand its 2,500-year history and myths. 5. Pompeii, Italy Most sites feature cold stone, yet Pompeii is personal. Its archaeological park presents a snapshot of everyday life in a middle-ranking Roman city on the Bay of Naples at the moment when it was sealed under Vesuvius's volcanic ash in 79BCE. Near-perfect frescos decorate walls — elegant in those of the elite, bawdy in the brothels. There are carbonised loaves of bread, and the plaster casts of victims clutching jewellery or children nestled into their parents' arms are all-too human. The simple act of crossing streets on stepping stones used by ordinary Pompeiians makes history come alive. Caveats? Don't expect full houses — most buildings are ruined shells — and check online for opening times of houses before a visit. Do expect crowds — Piazza Anfiteatro is calmest of the three site entrances. A final tip: renting an audio guide is recommended to make sense of the ruined city. The ruined city of Pompeii is one of the world's most complete examples of what life in ancient Rome was like. Photograph by Darryl Brooks; Getty Images 6. Petra, Jordan Few ancient sites live up to their promise like the 2,000-year-old Nabataean desert capital. You know what's coming beyond the narrow canyon entrance; haggle for a buggy ride to avoid a walk of almost a mile. Yet to emerge suddenly before the carved columns of the Treasury (al-Khazneh) is to feel like Indiana Jones — probably why the franchise's third film was shot here. Hewn from ruddy rock, the Rose City was abandoned by the 8th century CE and lost to all but the Bedouin. Today, there are five square miles of monuments, palaces and tombs to discover on hiking trails. It's worth taking 800 steps up to ad-Dayr (the Monastery) in late afternoon when its rock glows orange. For adventure, arrive through the 'back door to Petra' — a well-marked four-mile desert trail from Little Petra (two to three hours). Buy a Petra ticket online beforehand. 7. Machu Picchu, Peru Machu Picchu wasn't known to the wider world until 1911 — it was local farmers who directed American explorer Hiram Bingham to Inca ruins in the cloud forest. But was it a mountain citadel or royal palace? How did stonemasons interlock blocks so no paper could slip between the stones? That no one really knows adds to the allure of one of the world's most visually astonishing sites. Positioned to align with the cosmos and engineered with aqueducts and fountains, it seems to grow organically from the Andes – it's quite the sight to take in. Only 1,000 of the 5,600 daily tickets are released on the day itself, so buy well in advance or go with a specialist tour offering transfers and guides. Multi-day options that include the Inca capital Cusco and the surrounding Sacred Valley are a good choice, plus a smart move to acclimatise to altitude if you're hiking to Machu Picchu on the Inca Trail. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
