Why are luxury European jewellery brands flocking to Dubai?
From luxury designers to schools and production facilities, Dubai is fast becoming a jewellery hub with a growing number of European brands relocating or expanding to the city in a movement that is cementing the emirate's position in the luxury market as a crossroads of East meets West.
Panos Melekkis is one of those names. The Cypriot fine jewellery designer has been part of a family business spanning generations, but he tells KT LUXE that Dubai was the ideal choice for his bespoke design studio, embodying 'the spirit of modern luxury and artistic innovation'.
'The city attracts a global clientele who appreciate exclusivity and craftsmanship, making it the perfect environment to showcase my creations,' he said. 'My atelier in Dubai Design District (D3) is a place where artistry and craftsmanship converge, where clients can immerse themselves in the creative process and witness the transformation of raw materials into masterpieces.'
He says that with its ease of doing business, Dubai offers unparalleled opportunities for growth and creativity, and D3, in particular, has become a hub for luxury and innovation.
'In Dubai, I have access to a global market of high-net-worth individuals who seek exclusive, personalised creations,' he explained.
'The city's vibrant luxury scene and advanced manufacturing capabilities allow me to experiment with cutting-edge techniques and source the rarest gemstones. This creative freedom, combined with the ability to cater to a diverse, international clientele, is what sets my Dubai operations apart from my roots in Cyprus.'
He says that in the Dubai market, his family's bespoke designs, high-value diamond pieces, and rare coloured gemstones, are particularly popular, with clients seeking out exclusivity and personalisation, and valuing pieces that reflect their individual tastes and tell a personal story.
But, he admits, Dubai has also played an influential role in his evolving direction and style. 'Cyprus, with its rich history and Mediterranean influences, gave me a deep respect for heritage and the timeless allure of classic design. Dubai, on the other hand, has exposed me to a world of bold, contemporary luxury, pushing the boundaries of innovation and redefining opulence. Together, these influences have shaped my aesthetic, blending the timeless elegance of European artistry with the dynamic energy of the modern Middle East.'
Sophie Claudel, director of L'ÉCOLE, School of Jewellery Arts, which already has campuses in Paris, Hong Kong and Shanghai, says that the school's recent expansion to Dubai is 'the natural next step'.
'We felt that Dubai combines a diverse melting pot of cultures, it merges tradition and modernity, and has a deep and strong history with jewellery, so it makes perfect sense for L'ÉCOLE to be here,' she told KT LUXE.
The move coincides with last year's founding of The Dubai Business Group for Gold and Jewellery Designers, a Dubai Chamber initiative recognising the city's growing design community and that aims to help develop local talent beyond the city's famous gold and diamond markets, promoting Dubai as a global jewellery design hub.
The school, which has classes for children and adults, has seen interest not only from the community but also, being a rare addition to the country's educational landscape, has attracted professionals from the industry, with programmes centred on art history, gemology, and craftsmanship.
'Dubai is in full expansion mode and attracts so many talents from all over the world. It is becoming a significant cultural hub in the region with a growing status as a centre for design and the arts.'
She said this is having a major influence on the industry. 'This appreciation is appealing to jewellers from around the world to open their doors and share their craftsmanship and expertise.
'We are witnessing many Maisons recognising this and creating immersive experiences for the community of Dubai, showcasing their exceptional history and unique jewellery creations. For institutions like L'ÉCOLE Middle East, this environment enables meaningful contributions to the regional creative economy and supports the long-term development of the jewellery sector.'
We are witnessing many Maisons recognising this and creating immersive experiences for the community of Dubai, showcasing their exceptional history and unique jewellery creations"
Sophie Claudel, Director Of L'éCole
Italian firm GDM Precious Metal Refining Recovery and Recycling has also recently come to the UAE, becoming the country's first end-to-end recovery and refining plant of precious metals, including gold, silver, platinum, palladium, and copper.
Emanuele Esposito, director general of Gold Metal DMCC, said that for the company, there are huge benefits of the expansion. 'Dubai enables a level of integration that's structurally difficult elsewhere. Here, recovery, refining, secure storage, and precious metals trading co-exist within a unified operational framework — streamlined, compliant, and future-ready.
'As a refinery operating across industrial waste disposal, electronic recovery, and investment-grade bullion production, we benefit from the UAE's regulatory clarity and logistical efficiency. We're able to deliver outcomes with speed and precision that would be far more restricted in other jurisdictions.'
As a luxury destination and a destination for small business, Dubai offers the perfect second home. 'Dubai is a global benchmark for luxury, trust, and innovation. Our presence here places the company at the heart of a thriving ecosystem, trusted by investors, private clients, and artisans alike,' Esposito said.
'In Italy and across Europe, Dubai is regarded as the epicentre of modern luxury [and] … aligning with Dubai is a strategic move. It communicates that we operate to international benchmarks in a market that values both sustainability and precision. It reinforces our identity not only as a refinery but also as a long-term partner in the global precious metals value chain.'
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