The Wari's moving kitchen: How Pune feeds thousands of pilgrims, one meal at a time

Indian Express

7 days ago

Written by Divyaja Kalyankar
Every June, Pune turns into a spiritual crossroad during the annual Wari pilgrimage as thousands of devotees walking from Alandi and Dehu to the temple town of Pandharpur converge in the city. As the chants of 'Mauli Mauli' echo through the streets, behind the scenes, something equally powerful simmers, a quiet culinary movement run entirely on faith and seva that sees Pune transform into a massive, open-air kitchen that feeds thousands of Warkaris.
From family-run food stalls to large community kitchens, the scale of food operations during the Wari in Pune is staggering. According to estimates from a few organisations involved in the Wari every year, over 1.5 lakh Warkaris receive at least two free meals in Pune over two days. And yet, there is no single organiser, no central fund. Just people, cooking for people.
'We made food for 2,000 Warkaris yesterday and did not even notice how the day passed,' says Swapnil Doke, a farmer-turned-social worker from Baramati who sets up his free food stall every year near Nana Peth. 'When you are doing it for Mauli's devotees, you do not get tired. You get lighter,' he adds, referring to Lord Vitthal.
The meals themselves are traditional and nourishing, designed for pilgrims walking nearly 250 km in the monsoon. Most common dishes include poha, khichdi, dal-rice, usal-poli, and sheera. Some groups also prepare pithla-bhakri or sabudana khichdi for easier digestion.
Sonali Pundge, a homemaker from Kothrud, has been cooking at home for three weeks in advance. 'I dry roast ingredients, prepare masalas, and freeze chutneys. We serve about 300 people at our doorstep. My children help distribute. This is our way of connecting with Lord Vitthal,' she explains.
The generosity does not stop with just food. Many locations across FC Road, Deccan Gymkhana, Policeline, Rokdoba temple, Hadapsar, Erandwane, and Nana Peth also provide Warkaris with drinking water, fruit, chhaas, and buttermilk, and some even offer first aid and shelter from the rain.
A group of software engineers from Baner, calling themselves 'Bhakt Byte', has taken a modern approach. They have set up hydration points with energy drinks and electrolyte water outside local stores. 'We may not be able to cook like our parents, but we can still serve,' says Akshay Kulkarni, one of the volunteers.
Yet, amid all this goodwill, there are logistical challenges. Sudden rain, transportation delays, and swelling crowds strain resources. Still, the system holds.
Sangeeta Pawar, a sociologist studying Wari dynamics, explains, 'It is a fascinating case of decentralised service. There is no contract, no money, no monitoring, just a moral agreement between society and faith.'
And while data may reflect fluctuations in the number of Warkaris this year, the spirit of giving remains as abundant as ever. 'I came with nothing but Lord Vitthal's name,' says Shivaji Wankhede, a first-time Warkari from Akola. 'I have eaten five times in two days without asking once. This city has fed me like a mother,' he adds.
Wankhede's experience reinforces that for Pune, feeding the Warkaris is not just a ritual. It is a return to its roots, a reminder that in a world driven by transaction, there is still space for devotion without expectation. And in that space, over a warm bowl of khichdi or sheera, strangers become family, even if just for a moment under the cloudy sky.
(The author is an intern with The Indian Express.)