Dhaka like a local
I was born and raised in this city, and have spent the past 14 years reporting from here, most recently as a visual journalist for Reuters. In that time, I've seen it all — from the 2013 Rana Plaza collapse that killed over 1,100 garment factory workers to a recent student uprising that resulted in the ouster of the country's ruler of 15 years. Here's my guide on how to traverse this chaotic yet captivating metropolis like a local:
Old Dhaka: Founded as the capital of Bengal by the Mughals in the early 1600s, Dhaka served as a provincial capital during British rule, then the administrative capital of East Pakistan, before finally becoming the capital of independent Bangladesh in 1971. The city has grown extensively since then, swallowing up many of the surrounding villages. The historic core of Puran Dhaka, or Old Dhaka, is a charismatic world of narrow alleys and crumbling buildings.
A majority-Muslim country, Bangladesh is home to thousands of mosques, and Dhaka is often called 'the city of mosques.' Their minarets dominate the skyline, and five times a day the Islamic call to prayer echoes through the streets. Among the city's most significant mosques are the 19th-century Star Mosque (so named for its blue star motif), the vast national mosque Baitul Mukarram and the 18th-century Khan Mohammad Mridha Mosque.
Getting around: Traffic in Dhaka is notoriously chaotic — the inevitable outcome of too many vehicles and too few road structures. Traffic lights are more suggestions than rules, and police direct traffic with a mixture of instinct and desperation. Footpaths are barely usable, packed with street vendors and shoppers, and crossing a street requires bravery. Jaywalking is often essential!
While city buses are available, they are often overcrowded and uncomfortable. For short to medium distances, your best bet is the cycle rickshaw — ubiquitous, cheap and often dazzlingly decorated. Beware the speedy battery-powered ones, nicknamed "Desi Teslas,' for they can be fun, but risky. Alternatively, flag down a green-painted CNG (compressed natural gas-powered auto-rickshaw) — haggling is essential — or use ride-sharing apps like Uber or Pathao. The new Metro Rail system avoids road traffic entirely and is set to be a gamechanger once it is fully operational.
What to see: One of the city's most vibrant areas is the Dhaka University campus – once dubbed the 'Oxford of the East.' It remains a bastion of secularism and youth politics, and is home to some of the city's rare green space. Look out for the Dhaka Gate, once the main entrance to the Mughal city, and still guarded by General Mir Jumla's rusty cannon. History buffs will also enjoy the nearby Bangladesh National Museum and the Shaheed Minar — a monument to those killed in 1952 as they protested the right for Bengali to be officially recognised as a language in East Pakistan.
Other must-visit sights include the Sangsad Bhaban or National Parliament, designed by noted architect Louis Kahn, the Mughal-era Lalbagh Fort, and Ahsan Manzil, a pink palace by the Buriganga River. You can take a boat ride from the Sadarghat river port, though be warned: the water can be quite pungent. Ramna Park offers a rare moment of tranquillity, and the Armenian Church in Old Dhaka is a haunting relic of a forgotten community. Adventurous visitors should consider spending a night at Beauty Boarding, a colonial-era guesthouse once beloved by poets and writers. If sports are more your game, take in a cricket match at Mirpur Stadium. Tickets go for as little as 500BDT ($4).
Retail therapy: Bangladesh is a paradise for bargain-hunters. As the world's second-largest exporter of ready-made garments, much of what's stitched for major Western brands can also be found in local markets. Head to New Market, Bongo Bazar or the Anannya Shopping Complex for export-quality clothes at a fraction of the price. Haggling is expected. For a more modern retail experience, the Bashundhara City and Jamuna Future Park malls offer everything from international fashion to cinemas and food courts. Aarong stores are great for Bangladeshi souvenirs like jute products and handloomed crafts.
What to eat: Food is Dhaka's greatest love language. Street food, in particular, is vibrant and addictive, although caution is advisable for those with sensitive stomachs. 'Fuchka' are crunchy little orbs filled with mashed potatoes, lentils, tamarind water and spices that explode in your mouth. At Nazira Bazar in the old city, try Nanna Mia's Murg Polao, Haji's Mutton Tehari served on jackfruit leaves, Bakarkhani (a flaky, savoury biscuit), and Beauty's famous Lassi. The best kebabs, meanwhile, are made by Bihari chefs in the Mohammadpur and Mirpur Geneva Camps, in west and northwest Dhaka, respectively. Kacchi biryani is a Dhaka classic, made with tender mutton, fragrant rice, and potatoes cooked in ghee with authentic subcontinental spices in an airtight massive pot simmering over a coal fire. The best can be found at Sultan's Dine or Kacchi Bhai, with branches all over the city.
Beyond the markets, you can also find food carts on each corner, selling an array of spicy snacks, fresh fruit, grilled meats, and drinks. If your stomach can handle it, dive in. But never drink tap water. Bottled water is cheap and essential.
While you eat, don't be surprised if a stranger pays for your food or strikes up a conversation. Hospitality is a way of life here. You might even be invited home for lunch or dinner.
What to drink: For a quintessential local experience, grab a cup of 'cha' or tea at a roadside 'tong' or tea shack. Everyone — from students to businesspeople — gathers here to discuss politics, cricket, or philosophy. Feel free to join the conversation. Public drinking is prohibited in Dhaka, but there are a few semi-dark bars (so called because of their deliberately low lighting) that serve foreigners and locals with permits, where you'll find local liquor called Carew's or the crisp Bangladeshi beer Hunter, easily mistaken for an Australian Foster's thanks to the similar packaging design.
Local festivities: Festivals bring the city to life in glorious fashion. If you're in town during Eid or Durga Puja, don't be surprised if new friends pull you into family celebrations, stuff you with food and even gift you a new kurta, a traditional loose-fitting tunic. That's Dhaka for you — intense, generous, and unpredictable.
CITY MEMO DATA POINTS
Population: 24 million
Price of a cup of tea: 10BDT ($0.08) from a tea shack or 250BDT ($2) from a top-tier restaurant.
Price of a designer t-shirt: Between 250 and 600BDT ($2 and $5) from New Market or Bongo Bazar.
Best place to see a sunset: The roadside food shacks next to Purbachal Express Highway and the posh rooftop cafes.
Essential read: 'Dhaka: From Mughal Outpost to Metropolis' by Golam Rabbani provides a 400-year history of the city.
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White water rafting in Kithulgala Adventures along the jungle-edged Kelani River The Kelani River, Sri Lanka's fourth longest, originates in Adam's Peak and passes adventure hub Kithulgala on its journey to the ocean. From this hamlet, enveloped by rainforest and mist-wrapped hills, rafting trips voyage a four-mile section of the river, navigating class two and three rapids, as well as languid stretches where you can jump in for a swim. Insider tip: There are many rafting operators in Kithulgala, but Borderlands is the longest-standing, takes safety seriously and has well-trained instructors. They also offer canyoning as a tag-on, where you can abseil and creep along crevices. Best free things to do Discover Galle Fort Potter around a 17th-century fortress You don't need a ticket to enter the 130-acre Galle Fort, one of Sri Lanka's eight World Heritage Sites. Its heady, incense-perfumed grid of streets is a joy to explore. 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Opening times: Saturday to Thursday: 4am to 5.30am, 7.30am to 12.30pm, 3pm to 6pm. Fridays: 4am to 6pm. Price: Free (donations appreciated) Walk with a Veddha Discovery walks with a local chieftain Sri Lanka's first inhabitants were forest-dwelling Veddas, who still exist in small tribes in the island's remote eastern jungles. Their way of life is fascinating yet fragile, so village visits are discouraged. Instead, follow an axe-wielding chieftain on an ethical walk through their farmland and hunting grounds, as he points out medicinal herbs, foods for foraging and ancient caves. Insider tip: This is one of a number of local experiences (others include jungle picnics, viewpoint treks and boat safaris where you might see elephants) curated by off-grid Gal Oya Lodge, which uncovers a rarely visited part of the island. 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Insider tip: Six-mile-long Stage 16, from Ella to Demodara, is one of the easiest and most family-friendly stages, taking you right past the Nine Arches viaduct and Demodara's 360-degree sub-station loop. Kumana National Park Leopard spotting away from the crowds Yala National Park is well known for its density of leopards, but it can get crowded in peak season. Consider venturing further east to Kumana National Park instead (beyond Yala's fluid eastern border). Its scrub forests, rocky outcrops and lakes also foster a healthy population of leopards (plus elephants, crocodiles and more than 250 bird species), but with far fewer jeeps. Insider tip: For an immersive three-night safari experience, book Kumana Under Canvas, a mobile safari camp in Kumana with stylish tents pitched in a wooded lakeside glade over an hour's drive from the park entrance. Includes food and expert-led game drives. Return to index Best for food and people Cook like a local Hosted cookery experience in Galle Having catered to royal families, mayors and sea captains over the years, Shahira now shares her cherished family recipes (peppered with first-hand foodie tales) from the kitchen of her home in Galle. Don't miss the chance to learn her southern-style biriyani recipe, a heady cardamom-spiced Muslim dish of slow-cooked meat and cashew nuts with saffron rice. Insider tip: You might meet Shahira's son, Atheeq, from Ceylon Soul around the lunch table, the architect of other insightful Galle Fort experiences, such as hosted walking tours and treasure hunts. Kandy Food Trail Hosted food experience in Kandy Discover Kandy's diverse regional cuisines and fresh food markets on Pepper's Kandy Food Trail. Tuck into curries, deep-fried snacks and kithul-sweetened treats from street vendors, curry houses and restaurants as part of a multi-sensorial walk hosted by local Ujith. It usually ends with cold beers or G&Ts at a 19th-century bar. Insider tip: Alternatively, end your tour at Kandy's Temple of the Tooth – aim to get there around 6.15pm for the evening pooja when the chamber housing the Buddha's tooth is ceremoniously revealed, and drums, chanting and incense fills the air. Area: Kandy Website: Price: ££ Orange Field Tea Factory Exclusive owner-hosted tea tour Many tea factories dot the Central Highlands, but this tidy factory near Kandy, which processes tea from 750 small-scale growers, cares for its workers, sees few tourists and there's no hard selling of tea. Better still, it is the factory owner, Sebastian, who expertly guides you past juddering, oscillating machinery, taking time to explain each intricate process. Insider tip: One of the closest hotels to the factory is Ellerton, 20 minutes away. Owner Luca has a good connection with Sebastian and organises tours for his guests in advance. Colombo City Walks History-focused walking tours If you have a day in Colombo, join a walking tour hosted by passionate history-loving guide Mark Forbes (or his lovely wife, Ruvi). On these three-hour ambles, you'll visit Colombo Fort's colonial-era relics, such as the Former General Post Office and time-warped Grand Oriental Hotel, before seeking out Bombay sweets and hidden temples in the chaotic streets of the neighbourhood Pettah. Insider tip: Alternatively, join Sensory Indulgences' fun Food Coma experience, which explores Colombo's multi-ethnic cuisine by night. On these after-dark misadventures, sample arrack in 'dodgy' Second World War bars, snack on street food and visit legendary curry houses. Lunuganga Garden Tour Visit Geoffrey Bawa's iconic garden Lunuganga was the country residence of the late visionary architect Geoffrey Bawa, a fiercely private refuge where he experimented with Tropical Modernism and fine-tuned his designs. It's now a boutique hotel and while resident guests can potter at will, the daily guided tours – hosted by those who knew Bawa personally – add depth and context as you are regaled with amusing anecdotes, and shown hidden statues, easily missed follies and secret views. Insider tip: Brief, the enigmatic house and garden of Geoffrey's brother Bevis (a landscape architect) is nearby. Its intimate series of gardens are enlivened by statues, mossy arches and urns; indoors are fantastical Donald Friend-painted murals. Return to index How we choose Every activity or experience to do in this curated list has been expertly chosen by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of areas and styles, from popular city beaches to lesser-known corners, to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up-to-date recommendations. Emma Boyle A holiday to Sri Lanka turned into an epic 16-year adventure in the country, during which I developed a love for leopard-spotting, coconutty curries and single estate teas.
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