Yak poo, dangerous flights, and teahouses: 10 truths about hiking Everest Base Camp
But what most people don't talk about is the odd, uncomfortable, and unexpectedly wonderful things that happen along the way. From yak poo fires to flights into the world's most dangerous airport, here's 10 truths about hiking to Everest Base Camp.
Before your trek to Everest Base Camp can begin, you have to fly into Lukla Airport, one of the most dangerous airports in the world. Lukla Airport is considered 'dangerous' for a lot of reasons: short runways, high altitude, poor visibility, and wind.
The runway itself is perched right on the side of the mountain and is only 1,729 feet long (for context, runways at most large international airports are roughly 10,000 feet long). Flights there are so frequently cancelled that you have to build buffer days into your base camp trek schedule in case of cancellation. If you do manage to get a flight, expect a tiny plane and turbulence.
If we had one word of advice for packing for Everest Base Camp it would be layers. Maybe unsurprisingly, weather in the world's tallest mountains is super unpredictable and the sun is strong. Overnight and in the mornings it's freezing (you'll probably get snow), but once the sun rises it's super hot. You'll start hiking at 5am bundled in beanies and coats, but by 8am, you'll be peeling off layers.
Wondering how to charge your phone in the Himalayas? It's a lot easier than you think, but you'll have to pay. Most tea houses along the route provide charging, but you have to pay for it either by the time or percentage of battery. Expect to pay between $1-5 per hour of charging, depending on how high up you are in the mountains. Personally, we brought a solar-powered battery pack to charge our phones and save time fighting other trekkers for plugs at the teahouses.
As for the internet, you can buy WiFi cards at teahouses, with 100mb usually costing $3-5.
Around day 6 of your trek, you'll break the tree line. From this point on, wood becomes a precious commodity that most villages do not have. Instead, the locals use dried yak poo to fuel their fires during the frigid nights. After a long day of trekking, we loved going to a bakery or teahouse, ordering pastries or tea, and chatting around the fire with lots of other trekkers. It's moments like these that make the journey all worth it.
You probably shouldn't expect Michelin-star cuisine this high up in the Himalayas, but if you do, sorry to burst your bubble. The logistics of getting food up to these villages is difficult, so restaurants serve a few dishes that give you the energy needed to keep trekking.
Vegetarians rejoice, because you'll find little to no meat on the trek. Expect to eat lots of oatmeal, noodles, and rice served alongside local dishes like momos (dumplings) and dal bhat (lentil soup). If you're lucky, you might find a teahouse serving pizza or mac n cheese. And after a long day of hiking, it'll be the best pizza of your life.
The best way to hydrate and embrace local customs during the trek is by drinking lots of tea. Try Tibetan tea, made with salt, tea, butter, flour, and milk. Seriously, it tastes like cookies in liquid form. We also fell in love with the tart sea buckthorn juice, made from a superfood berry that has more vitamins than oranges or carrots.
I think it's an important shoutout to let you know that you often can't see Mount Everest from Everest Base Camp. Mount Everest is huge, but its summit often plays hide-and-seek behind mountains, clouds, and glaciers. The best views of this famous mountain come a little earlier in the trek. Usually, it's between Namche Bazaar and Dingboche that you will be able to see Everest the best.
Spending the night at Everest Base Camp is usually reserved for the brave souls attempting to summit the mountain. If you're just hiking to base camp, you'll stay further downhill in the village of Gorakshep.
After dropping your bags off at the tea house, it's about a two-hour hike to base camp. You'll stop there for a bit to take pictures, eat a snack, and marvel at your accomplishments before heading back to Gorakshep for the night. But honestly, just being at Everest Base Camp for a little bit is surreal.
We saw between 3-10 rescue helicopters every single day of our trek! It's a 50/50 split between hikers getting airlifted off our trek and climbers getting airlifted off Mount Everest. Every time one flew by, we felt so grateful that our bodies were healthy enough to survive this insane hike, even after gaining thousands of meters of elevation a day!
Our favorite part of the Everest Base Camp trek (besides the incredible mountain views) was getting to meet so many new friends. From learning about local culture with our sherpa guides to laughing as our new Aussie friends jumped into one of the freezing cold lakes, we really fell in love with the people on the trek.
We vlogged every single day of our Everest Base Camp journey when we did the trek many years ago. To go back and see day 1, check out the video below!
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San Francisco Chronicle
4 hours ago
- San Francisco Chronicle
Dubai's booming restaurant scene is feeling the heat of high costs and high failure rates
DUBAI, United Arab Emirates (AP) — From suspended tables to underwater lounges, some 13,000 food and drink establishments in Dubai pull out all the stops to attract customers in one of the world's most saturated dining markets. They cater to all tastes and budgets. Some spots ladle out inexpensive biryani while others offer dishes dusted with edible gold. These are some of the ways the emirate is competing with its neighbors Saudi Arabia and Qatar for tourist dollars and, so far, it's beating them handily. Dubai has more restaurants per capita than any major city except Paris. But the city-state's booming restaurant scene is testing the limits of its growth-at-all-costs model, raising questions about how long Dubai can keep feeding its own ambitions. A crowded and competitive market The competition is cutthroat, so presentation is key. 'Gone are the days when it just tastes good,' said Kym Barter, the general manager of Atlantis The Palm, a resort perched on a manmade archipelago that boasts more Michelin stars than any other venue in the Middle East. But dazzling Dubai's food bloggers — the most popular of whom have millions of social media followers — isn't enough. Staying afloat means battling high rents and winning over a diverse and demanding group of consumers. Dubai has roughly nine expatriate residents for every Emirati citizen. Most of its private sector workers are migrants on temporary contracts, and only Vatican City has a higher share of foreign-born residents. Tourists, in turn, outnumber locals about five to one by some estimates, and they spend lavishly. Visitors to Dubai drop an average of over five times more than those traveling to nearby Saudi Arabia or even the U.S., according to global restaurant consultant Aaron Allen. Dubai is 'on the right path' to becoming the world's food capital, said Torsten Vildgaard, executive chef at FZN by Björn Frantzén. The restaurant, which runs at more than $540 a head, was one of two in Dubai to nab three Michelin stars in May. 'We're only seeing the tip of the iceberg of what's to come in terms of gastronomy here,' Vildgaard added. With each new set of illuminated high-rises and hotels, another crop of eateries emerge, vying for patrons. The legions of construction workers powering Dubai's progress also need affordable options. That growth, propped up in part by investor pressure on some of the world's biggest chains to expand in Dubai, has created what some analysts warn is a bubble. 'If you're a publicly traded company like Americana, what are you supposed to do — just stop opening restaurants?' restaurant consultant Allen said, referring to the Gulf-based operator of KFC, Pizza Hut and other big franchises. The frenetic expansion of Dubai's restaurant industry is part of a regional shift that has seen Gulf Arab states pour hundreds of billions of dollars into building out tourist destinations as they move away from hydrocarbons to diversify their economies. Saudi Arabia has a high-stakes, $500 billion project: a straight-line futuristic city called Neom. But, in a Muslim-majority region, the United Arab Emirates has gone to lengths that some consider too much of a compromise, including relaxing restrictions on alcohol that fuel its pubs and nightlife and other social reforms. High costs and failure rates The rapid development comes at a price. Dubai's restaurants have a high failure rate, industry veterans say, though local authorities don't say what the rate of closures is. In the downtown district and other prime areas, annual rents for restaurants can top $100 per square foot. That's on a par with some of the world's most expensive cities. Still, the emirate issued almost 1,200 new restaurant licenses last year, according to Dubai's Department of Economy and Tourism. The department declined to respond to questions. Empty tables during peak hours are common, even in top locations. Part of the problem, managers say, is that traffic congestion is so severe that convincing diners to drive out can be a tall task. 'I sometimes go, 'Do I go into the restaurant right now, because I'm going to get into traffic?''' said Waseem Abdul Hameed, operations manager at Ravi, a Pakistani family-owned eatery famous for its official Adidas shoe line and a 2010 TV feature from Anthony Bourdain. He knows restaurateurs who have had to shut up shop and others who are squeezed by slim margins and increasingly reliant on delivery apps, Hameed said. The demand sends fleets of migrant workers racing through gridlock on motorbikes, with few protections and tight delivery windows. Emirati newspaper Khaleej Times reported the accidental deaths of 17 Dubai food couriers last year. The math of Dubai's restaurant scene doesn't add up, delivery apps and wealthy tourists notwithstanding, restaurant consultant Allen said. He cited operating expenses that have more than doubled relative to sales since 2009, when a financial crisis almost hobbled the emirate. Too many Dubai entrepreneurs, he put it simply, have 'too much money, and they don't know what to do besides open restaurants.'

4 hours ago
Dubai's booming restaurant scene is feeling the heat of high costs and high failure rates
DUBAI, United Arab Emirates -- From suspended tables to underwater lounges, some 13,000 food and drink establishments in Dubai pull out all the stops to attract customers in one of the world's most saturated dining markets. They cater to all tastes and budgets. Some spots ladle out inexpensive biryani while others offer dishes dusted with edible gold. These are some of the ways the emirate is competing with its neighbors Saudi Arabia and Qatar for tourist dollars and, so far, it's beating them handily. Dubai has more restaurants per capita than any major city except Paris. But the city-state's booming restaurant scene is testing the limits of its growth-at-all-costs model, raising questions about how long Dubai can keep feeding its own ambitions. The competition is cutthroat, so presentation is key. 'Gone are the days when it just tastes good,' said Kym Barter, the general manager of Atlantis The Palm, a resort perched on a manmade archipelago that boasts more Michelin stars than any other venue in the Middle East. But dazzling Dubai's food bloggers — the most popular of whom have millions of social media followers — isn't enough. Staying afloat means battling high rents and winning over a diverse and demanding group of consumers. Dubai has roughly nine expatriate residents for every Emirati citizen. Most of its private sector workers are migrants on temporary contracts, and only Vatican City has a higher share of foreign-born residents. Tourists, in turn, outnumber locals about five to one by some estimates, and they spend lavishly. Visitors to Dubai drop an average of over five times more than those traveling to nearby Saudi Arabia or even the U.S., according to global restaurant consultant Aaron Allen. Dubai is 'on the right path' to becoming the world's food capital, said Torsten Vildgaard, executive chef at FZN by Björn Frantzén. The restaurant, which runs at more than $540 a head, was one of two in Dubai to nab three Michelin stars in May. 'We're only seeing the tip of the iceberg of what's to come in terms of gastronomy here,' Vildgaard added. With each new set of illuminated high-rises and hotels, another crop of eateries emerge, vying for patrons. The legions of construction workers powering Dubai's progress also need affordable options. That growth, propped up in part by investor pressure on some of the world's biggest chains to expand in Dubai, has created what some analysts warn is a bubble. 'If you're a publicly traded company like Americana, what are you supposed to do — just stop opening restaurants?' restaurant consultant Allen said, referring to the Gulf-based operator of KFC, Pizza Hut and other big franchises. The frenetic expansion of Dubai's restaurant industry is part of a regional shift that has seen Gulf Arab states pour hundreds of billions of dollars into building out tourist destinations as they move away from hydrocarbons to diversify their economies. Saudi Arabia has a high-stakes, $500 billion project: a straight-line futuristic city called Neom. But, in a Muslim-majority region, the United Arab Emirates has gone to lengths that some consider too much of a compromise, including relaxing restrictions on alcohol that fuel its pubs and nightlife and other social reforms. The rapid development comes at a price. Dubai's restaurants have a high failure rate, industry veterans say, though local authorities don't say what the rate of closures is. In the downtown district and other prime areas, annual rents for restaurants can top $100 per square foot. That's on a par with some of the world's most expensive cities. Still, the emirate issued almost 1,200 new restaurant licenses last year, according to Dubai's Department of Economy and Tourism. The department declined to respond to questions. Empty tables during peak hours are common, even in top locations. Part of the problem, managers say, is that traffic congestion is so severe that convincing diners to drive out can be a tall task. 'I sometimes go, 'Do I go into the restaurant right now, because I'm going to get into traffic?''' said Waseem Abdul Hameed, operations manager at Ravi, a Pakistani family-owned eatery famous for its official Adidas shoe line and a 2010 TV feature from Anthony Bourdain. He knows restaurateurs who have had to shut up shop and others who are squeezed by slim margins and increasingly reliant on delivery apps, Hameed said. The demand sends fleets of migrant workers racing through gridlock on motorbikes, with few protections and tight delivery windows. Emirati newspaper Khaleej Times reported the accidental deaths of 17 Dubai food couriers last year. The math of Dubai's restaurant scene doesn't add up, delivery apps and wealthy tourists notwithstanding, restaurant consultant Allen said. He cited operating expenses that have more than doubled relative to sales since 2009, when a financial crisis almost hobbled the emirate. Too many Dubai entrepreneurs, he put it simply, have 'too much money, and they don't know what to do besides open restaurants.'


The Hill
5 hours ago
- The Hill
Dubai's booming restaurant scene is feeling the heat of high costs and high failure rates
DUBAI, United Arab Emirates (AP) — From suspended tables to underwater lounges, some 13,000 food and drink establishments in Dubai pull out all the stops to attract customers in one of the world's most saturated dining markets. They cater to all tastes and budgets. Some spots ladle out inexpensive biryani while others offer dishes dusted with edible gold. These are some of the ways the emirate is competing with its neighbors Saudi Arabia and Qatar for tourist dollars and, so far, it's beating them handily. Dubai has more restaurants per capita than any major city except Paris. But the city-state's booming restaurant scene is testing the limits of its growth-at-all-costs model, raising questions about how long Dubai can keep feeding its own ambitions. The competition is cutthroat, so presentation is key. 'Gone are the days when it just tastes good,' said Kym Barter, the general manager of Atlantis The Palm, a resort perched on a manmade archipelago that boasts more Michelin stars than any other venue in the Middle East. But dazzling Dubai's food bloggers — the most popular of whom have millions of social media followers — isn't enough. Staying afloat means battling high rents and winning over a diverse and demanding group of consumers. Dubai has roughly nine expatriate residents for every Emirati citizen. Most of its private sector workers are migrants on temporary contracts, and only Vatican City has a higher share of foreign-born residents. Tourists, in turn, outnumber locals about five to one by some estimates, and they spend lavishly. Visitors to Dubai drop an average of over five times more than those traveling to nearby Saudi Arabia or even the U.S., according to global restaurant consultant Aaron Allen. Dubai is 'on the right path' to becoming the world's food capital, said Torsten Vildgaard, executive chef at FZN by Björn Frantzén. The restaurant, which runs at more than $540 a head, was one of two in Dubai to nab three Michelin stars in May. 'We're only seeing the tip of the iceberg of what's to come in terms of gastronomy here,' Vildgaard added. With each new set of illuminated high-rises and hotels, another crop of eateries emerge, vying for patrons. The legions of construction workers powering Dubai's progress also need affordable options. That growth, propped up in part by investor pressure on some of the world's biggest chains to expand in Dubai, has created what some analysts warn is a bubble. 'If you're a publicly traded company like Americana, what are you supposed to do — just stop opening restaurants?' restaurant consultant Allen said, referring to the Gulf-based operator of KFC, Pizza Hut and other big franchises. The frenetic expansion of Dubai's restaurant industry is part of a regional shift that has seen Gulf Arab states pour hundreds of billions of dollars into building out tourist destinations as they move away from hydrocarbons to diversify their economies. Saudi Arabia has a high-stakes, $500 billion project: a straight-line futuristic city called Neom. But, in a Muslim-majority region, the United Arab Emirates has gone to lengths that some consider too much of a compromise, including relaxing restrictions on alcohol that fuel its pubs and nightlife and other social reforms. The rapid development comes at a price. Dubai's restaurants have a high failure rate, industry veterans say, though local authorities don't say what the rate of closures is. In the downtown district and other prime areas, annual rents for restaurants can top $100 per square foot. That's on a par with some of the world's most expensive cities. Still, the emirate issued almost 1,200 new restaurant licenses last year, according to Dubai's Department of Economy and Tourism. The department declined to respond to questions. Empty tables during peak hours are common, even in top locations. Part of the problem, managers say, is that traffic congestion is so severe that convincing diners to drive out can be a tall task. 'I sometimes go, 'Do I go into the restaurant right now, because I'm going to get into traffic?''' said Waseem Abdul Hameed, operations manager at Ravi, a Pakistani family-owned eatery famous for its official Adidas shoe line and a 2010 TV feature from Anthony Bourdain. He knows restaurateurs who have had to shut up shop and others who are squeezed by slim margins and increasingly reliant on delivery apps, Hameed said. The demand sends fleets of migrant workers racing through gridlock on motorbikes, with few protections and tight delivery windows. Emirati newspaper Khaleej Times reported the accidental deaths of 17 Dubai food couriers last year. The math of Dubai's restaurant scene doesn't add up, delivery apps and wealthy tourists notwithstanding, restaurant consultant Allen said. He cited operating expenses that have more than doubled relative to sales since 2009, when a financial crisis almost hobbled the emirate. Too many Dubai entrepreneurs, he put it simply, have 'too much money, and they don't know what to do besides open restaurants.'