Farmers, Not AI, Power This Underground Dinner Series
With a single seating each night and a small crowd, Bayer is able to connect with each guest.
While Bayer said he's routinely asked if the goal is to open a restaurant, he's enjoying the level of hospitality he can deliver through the weekly pop-ups for 24 to 30 people.
The goal is to keep things fun and casual every step of the way. Word about Bar Berria has primarily spread through Instagram, and when guests book a seat, Bayer is the main contact.
'The personality you see on Instagram, in confirmation emails, in the food, and the dining room is all the same. I'm a human, you're a human, and let's communicate like that. I mean it's not too long before the robots take over,' Bayer says.
Bar Berria is a casual-but-intimate dinner series. Aidan Kranz
His menu descriptions are often just three words to give him flexibility based on what he gets from suppliers, including Nichols Farm, Mick Klüg, Seedling, and Down at the Farms, or the 32 raised bed gardens where wine events are regularly hosted.
'I planted a lot of things that are looking towards the future, so I got a fig tree, a peach tree, pawpaws,' Bayer says. 'We've got four chickens just for eggs, so when everyone was stressing out earlier this year, we were golden.'
So far, Bayer has yet to repeat a dish, and he said he's constantly looking for inspiration, constantly reviewing the weekly lists farmers send him, outlining what products they have available as 'maps for the upcoming menus.' It's how he gets the juices flowing.
'Knowing who grew the produce and combining it with something we fermented 12, 18, 24 months ago is what gets us jazzed,' Bayer says. 'Being able to do that and also share that story with guests is what makes us a little different.'
The team is small, with Bayer partnering with Emily Abram, who started cooking for him at the Heritage in Forest Park and went on to serve as executive sous chef at Etta and Dusek's. Avondale Bowl managing partner Jeff Wilson, who worked as general manager of the Heritage, helps with front of house. In addition to offering a six-to-10 course tasting menu, Bar Berria collaborates with other chefs for special dinners. They've included Perilla's Andrew Lim and Thomas Carlin of Dove's Luncheonette and Galit, who were looking to experiment with dishes while preparing to open a new restaurant in Evanston.
Bar Berria also hosts family-style dinners featuring Slagel Farms chicken, Publican Quality Bread, salad, and seasonal vegetables. Just don't expect the roast chicken Bayer prepared on Beat Bobby Flay, which he learned from Boka Hospitality Group chef Chris Pandel while working at the Bristol.
'That's how I rope everyone in,' Bayer says. 'You won't be getting the as-seen-on-TV chicken at Bar Berria. This process is based on the Peking duck method. It's a five-day process where we blanch, dry, glaze, season, dry again, and then roast them.'
Sieger Bayer sources ingredients from local farms and his own garden. Aidan Kranz
Bar Berria's menus are ever-changing. Aidan Kranz
All of Bar Berria's meals are BYOB. Beaujolais is the go-to suggestion for the chicken dinners and for the tasting menu. Bayer offers ideas in his confirmation emails like, 'Bring a dope sherry to drink out of a cute ass glass,' or 'Bring a Chenin that's got cool acidity and a nice minerality.' He's in no hurry to get a liquor license because diners are drinking less in general, and he wants to keep the meals accessible.
'We always joke when pouring wine guests bring in. 'Here is a beautiful wine from your cellar. Hope you enjoy it.'' Bayer says. 'We laugh, they laugh, it's great. Having a good time is what Bar Berria is all about. This project is us selfishly getting to do all the things we've wanted to do for years. All the creative goofy shit while not having to answer to anyone but us.
'Not to piss anyone [off], but the industry isn't the same. This isn't the industry that I fell in love with,' Bayer explains. 'It's not the industry that I think people deserve. Profits and bottom lines replaced hospitality and generosity. Bar Berria started as a concept that puts hospitality, generosity, and creativity as the leading charge. Maybe we're dumb for thinking that's what people want. Stay tuned.'
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