Corfu is a terrible tourist trap, but this Greek village captured my heart
I remember the first time I saw Corfu from the sky; steep hills draped in lush greenery, white cliffs plunging into turquoise waters so clear you could see the underwater world. I was mesmerised.
But it didn't take long to realise that I had fallen for a tourist trap.
Previous trips to Greece had prepared me for scorching heat and dangerous roads. I was not prepared for swarms of rowdy holidaymakers, flooding quaint tavernas with drunken heckling, and sprawling cheek by jowl on pretty pebble beaches.
I couldn't find one 'hidden gem' on the island, nor a single stretch of shoreline free from sunbeds. But a ferry to the mainland brought me to a true summer paradise.
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Before visiting Corfu, my hopes were high.
Known for spectacular scenery and rich cultural heritage, the island is one of the most-visited destinations in Europe.
The TikToks I'd thumbed through suggested I was in for the quintessential Greek summer experience, and despite the initial disappointment, I was determined to spend the next week basking in Mediterranean sun.
We rented a car and set out in search of a quiet spot along the coast, but it wasn't to be.
Pulling up to Rovinia, which is said to be a secluded, lesser-known beach, we spent an hour trying to find a parking spot. On the sand, we barely had space to set our bags down.
Later, we tried the Canal d'Amour, in the village of Sidari, known for yellow sandstone cliffs that form a natural fjord-like canal. Legend has it that couples who swim through the canal together will be blessed with eternal happiness, while singles will find true love.
I guess everyone was feeling romantic that day, because we ended up queuing for a glimpse of the water.
Mealtimes were also miserable. On the occasions we managed to snag a table at a restaurant with Google reviews higher than 3.4 stars, we ended up paying around €50 (£43) per person for a few shared starters and a main. In one place, we were charged €16 for a pitiful Greek salad.
Corfu's only redemption came when we rented a boat from Paleokastritsa beach.
Setting us back around €200 (£170) for six hours, the boat allowed us to explore some of the beaches and underwater caves that are inaccessible by land. We dropped anchor at Stelari Beach and soaked up the silence until another boatload of tourists drifted in beside us.
Even at sea, the island couldn't give us a break.
Look, I get it. With return flights from London costing an average of £88, it's easy to see why Corfu welcomes more than 2 million tourists each year, a quarter of whom are British.
The island was once ruled by Venice, and it now suffers the same plight: both places are overcrowded, overpriced and, in my opinion, totally overhyped.
If you're looking for a Greek getaway that hasn't fallen foul of tourists, I found the perfect spot just across the water.
Tucked in the hills of the mainland is Syvota, a quaint fishing village on the Ionian Sea — the same one that blesses Corfu, Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Lefkada, and Ksamil in Albania (often nicknamed the Maldives of Europe) with turquoise waters.
Syvota has it all: delicious and affordable seafood, dreamy lagoons, sprawling beaches, boat tours, watersports, and west-facing views for golden-hour snaps.
We spent the days lounging in Mikri Ammos beach bar, enjoying the silky sands of Agia Paraskevi beach, and putting our goggles on to explore the vibrant seabed of Mega Drafi beach.
We ate world-class seafood at Diapori, a small family-run restaurant just off the main track. It didn't look like much at a glance, but the piled-high plates, flowing ouzo and melt-in-the-mouth squid made it unforgettable — all for just over €35 per person.
An absolute must-do if you're staying anywhere on the Epirus coastline is a trip to the Paxos and Antipaxos islands.
Taking a cruise for around €30 (£25) per person, we enjoyed a full day of white-cliffed coves and crystal clear waters, perfect for snorkelling.
We stopped for lunch in Paxos's capital Gaios, where Fanalino restaurant served us freshly baked bread, olive tapenade, a refreshing Greek salad, and what was probably the best aubergine dip of my life.
The colourful town also has plenty of cafes, moreish gelato, and dinky shops run by local designers. More Trending
Just a 30-minute drive from Syvota is the picturesque town of Parga. Its colourful hillside houses, overlooked by an ancient Venetian castle, rival Italy's Amalfi coast for charm.
We watched the sun set over Panagia, the small islet facing Parga with its romantic whitewashed chapel, and went for an evening stroll through the narrow streets teeming with life.
Syvota may not be TikTok famous (yet), but that's exactly what makes it so special.
If your idea of a holiday is Oxford Street in 34°C heat, Corfu is your dream destination. For an authentic Greek getaway, stay on the mainland.
Skip the island prices: Eat, drink and sleep cheaper on the mainland — expect to pay €30-€40 (£25-£34) per person for a full meal with drinks in Syvota vs €50+ (£40+) in Corfu's tourist hubs.
Rent a car, not taxis: Hiring a car from Igoumenitsa or Preveza starts at €35-€45 (£30-£38) per day and is cheaper than multiple taxis for beach hopping or day trips.
Self-cater where you can: Many local apartments and villas have kitchens — great for breakfast runs to the local bakery or sunset mezze on the balcony.
Take a group boat tour: Private boats are lovely but cost around €150-€200 (£130-£170) per day. Group cruises to Paxos/Antipaxos start from just €30 (£25).
Travel off-peak: June and September have milder weather, lower prices, and far fewer crowds.
How to get to Syvota
ly direct to Corfu from London, Manchester, Bristol and Birmingham. Return flights can cost as little as £88 in shoulder season.
From Corfu Airport: Taxi to the port (15 mins)
Ferry to Igoumenitsa (1.5 hours, around €10–15)
Taxi or car hire to Syvota (25 mins, around €30 taxi or car hire from €40 per day)
Alternatively, fly to Preveza on the mainland, around a 90-minute drive from Syvota. Flights from London Stansted start from £71.
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