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Metro
23-07-2025
- Metro
An ode to Birmingham, the 'tragic' city everyone loves to hate
In the 13th installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Josie Copson pleads the case for the city where she grew up. A couple of months ago, a TikTok trend revealed the disdain people have for Birmingham. When a woman posting as RosyAmyG3 enthusiastically declared 'I'm going to Birmingham' on a live stream about summer holidays, the internet couldn't wait to use the audio to show parts of the city they deemed disappointing. Against the backdrop of ongoing bin strikes, I'll admit it was an easy target. But disparaging narratives about Brum have been around for much longer. And as someone who grew up near that much-maligned metropolis, I'm here to tell you that it's both ignorant and unfair. It wasn't until I went to university in Cardiff that I realised what the outside world says about my city. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. As well as learning how much people love to attempt the accent, it was clear that some viewed Birmingham as a grey, lifeless city devoid of culture and intelligent people. Research confirms this; a study from Bath University showed Brummies are likely to be seen as stupid. Jokes were fair game and took a different shape to dig at other places. Nobody said 'sorry about that' to Nottingham or Newport. In most cases, those slagging it off had never been there. They'd never turned off at the spaghetti junction (Birmingham's infamously complex interchange), and so they should probably have 0121, do one. My experience and my opinion couldn't be different. I grew up in Old Hill, around 40 minutes from the centre, and to me, Birmingham is a place of excitement. It gave me a love for city life that has only grown in adulthood. During one primary school English class, I produced a 'write to persuade' letter to then-Prime Minister Tony Blair, suggesting that it become the capital of the UK. I never received a reply. While I've abandoned that dream, I haven't given up on telling anyone who'll listen that Birmingham is one of the best places on the planet. The hate it gets on TikTok is both unoriginal and undeserved. The hill I will die on is that everyone should go on a city break to Birmingham. Here's why. I'm ready to be trolled, but I want to start my line of defence with a place not technically in Birmingham — The Black Country Living Museum. As the title suggests, it's in the neighbouring Black Country, but I couldn't write this without mentioning it. Not only does it incorporate the city's history into one immersive tourist attraction, but it's my personal Disneyland, and I'm not the only one who thinks it's bostin'. Last year, it picked up the TripAdvisor Travellers' Choice Award. The open-air museum, which features in Peaky Blinders, has rebuilt old buildings brick by brick in an easy-to-navigate patch of land, allowing visitors to step back in time and discover the rich history of the world's first industrial landscape. It's such silly fun, talking to actors who'll pretend to marvel at your iPhone, before heading to a vintage fairground to discover your future at a Big-style fortune-telling machine, or pulling up at the car garage filled with traditional vehicles. Hours can be passed by donning a hard hat to go down the mines or getting a lesson from a Victorian teacher — being mischievous with a blackboard and chalk for the strict educator character is a rite of passage in the childhood of people from my ends. As buying a ticket grants you access for a whole year, I've been known to walk in just to grab the famous fish and chips cooked in beef dripping, and fill my pockets at the traditional sweet shop, before heading to the reasonably priced pub. Similar to the way Pepsi tastes better at KFC, Vimto tastes much better at the Elephant and Castle pub than the ones that can be bought at a corner shop. Don't ask why, just drink. Heading into Birmingham city centre, there is plenty more culture to soak up. My idea of a great day out is a wander through the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery, home to a rotating wheel of exhibitions. Most are free. I distinctly remember an Andy Warhol special, in which my face was transformed into a painting in his style, being one of the best days of my summer holidays in the 00s. Currently, it is honouring local working-class hero Ozzy Osbourne by telling his rags-to-riches story in its halls, which will now take on extra significance following his death. Once outside the museum, you're treated to the beauty of the classic architecture of Chamberlain Square, often described as Romanesque. It's the perfect place to nail the Instagram shot for your weekend away, so you can play your part in dismantling the viewpoint that the city isn't pretty. Also worth a look is the Birmingham Library, which has a distinctive circular aluminium design. Once you've got your fill of the books, head up the escalators and onto the secret roof garden, where you'll get a bird's eye view of the cityscape. Talking of Italy, Birmingham has more miles of canal than Venice, and they can be explored on boat tours or enjoyed from one of the lively waterfront bars. Nightclubs are on their way out. Gen Zers are said to prefer running clubs to raves, and online chitchat to face-to-face dates. But you'd never know it in Birmingham. Here, people are still in search of a good time at all times. If you've listened to Lotto Boyzz's song Birmingham, then you've heard of Broad Street, but what you really need to know about is the nightclub Bushys, officially Bushwackers. Just a five-minute taxi away, it is open from 1am-6am every Sunday morning and unites the most committed partygoers. It's an addictive place that meant I was rarely awake for roast dinners for most of my early adulthood. Everyone should experience it once. For those who don't want to move their hips until sunrise, there's the legendary Jam House, opened by Jools Holland in 1999, that has welcomed Chaka Khan, The Specials and Westlife to the intimate stage. Big names are not a requirement for a good night here, just a pair of shoes you can dance in as the band covers all the crowd-pleasers. It's like the best wedding party you've ever been to every single night. Everything about Birmingham has an essence of whimsical silliness about it, from the bull stationed outside the Bullring that has more outfits than Paris Hilton's chihuahuas to the metallic silver Selfridges building replicating a woman's body and the Pat Butcher mural in Digbeth. Talking of which, the district is Birmingham's answer to East London, full of cool breweries and chic young adults hanging out at coffee shops, wine bars, and arcades. Birmingham is full of characters. It is the place that gave the world national treasure Alison Hammond, who still lived in Solihull until very recently. She's not the only superstar in residence. There's Jamelia, along with Cat Deeley, Emma Willis, Jeff Lynne, and Julie Walters. My personal favourite to drop into conversation is actor Felicity Jones. But it's not just those who've found fame who make it; it's every person. Brummies have been voted the top 10 friendliest people in the UK, and it's why, wherever I hear the distinct lilt of a Birmingham accent, I instantly feel comforted. Even the usually cold retail assistants at designer concessions are down-to-earth in good 'ol Brum. So when I'm putting myself into debt for a new pair of Christian Louboutins or a Louis Vuitton bag, at least I get a smile in the process. It's also one of the country's most diverse cities — according to the 2021 Census, over half of Birmingham's residents identify with an ethnic group other than White British, and it's home to people from 187 different nationalities. I felt lucky that, as a mixed person, I got to live somewhere so reflective of the world. The influence is clear in the food scene, you can get a beautiful Indian curry (Birmingham is often credited as popularising the balti) or a beef dinner, both of equal standard in the same vicinity — Opheem and Pastures are fail-safe options. While in December, the city looks like it belongs in a Hallmark movie, thanks to the Frankfurt Christmas Market (referred to as the German market by locals). In 2023, more people visited the West Midlands (Birmingham being its biggest city) than ever before. So, viral trends aside, I'm hopeful its negative reputation is on the way out. More Trending My city has so much to offer, and anyone who refuses to see that is, to be honest, a bit lazy. I'm sure a weekend in Birmingham (ideally sleeping at the gorgeous and recently renovated Grand Hotel) could convince even the biggest naysayers. And not that it matters, but the Birmingham accent is one of the sexiest in the world. Just listen to Thomas Shelby. MORE: Woman caught on camera waving knife and yelling racist abuse at man on street MORE: I dreamed of Thailand's paradise island, but I left it too late to visit MORE: Ali went for a walk to clear his head – but what happened next is a mystery
Metro
16-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Metro
I dreamed of Thailand's paradise island, but I left it too late to visit
In the 12th installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Sophie-May Williams shares her disappointment with an island that Hollywood put on the map. Thailand is a destination on many people's bucket lists, mine included. From tropical beaches and rainforests, to laidback culture and world-class cuisine, it ticks all the 'paradise' boxes. In 2023, I was one of the 28.15 million tourists who travelled to the Southeast Asian country. Though figures still hadn't reached pre-pandemic levels, it was obvious that tourism was steadily recovering. The place felt alive. In Bangkok, I dived straight into the chaotic atmosphere, hailing tuk-tuks like a local and gorging on green curries. In Ko Tao, I sipped bottles of Chang in a fishing boat-turned-beach bar. In Ko Pha Ngan, I hiked through verdant forests, discovering coves lined with coconut trees. For three long weeks, my experience was everything I had imagined it would be. In fact, it was better. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. But when I arrived on tiny Phi Phi Island, which welcomes (read: endures) over 14 million international tourists each year, something shifted. Instead of being greeted with simple shacks serving up seafood or smiling locals inviting me onto their island, I was met with a Burger King and McDonald's. Side by side. I'm no snob. And I'm certainly not one to shy away from a McChicken sandwich after a night out. I'd just heard stories of Phi Phi being one of the most naturally beautiful islands in Thailand. The 2000 movie The Beach had also been a reference point, so expectations were high. It wasn't just that the Golden Arches had been my first sight after a particularly nauseating boat ride. It was that the vibe felt off. I'm not naive to the fact that many places in Thailand cater to the 'party' traveller. The difference was, I had yet to come across the disrespectful type. Case in point: On our first night, we saw fully grown men release their bladders into the ocean as people skinny dipped, while others got dangerously obliterated on the infamous buckets. In hindsight, it's no surprise the island constructed two fast food restaurants within a 30-second walk of one another. They're clearly a much-needed hangover spot. My visit to Phi Phi wasn't just for the dramatic limestone cliffs, turquoise waters and white sandy beaches. Which, by the way, didn't disappoint. I was also visiting a friend, Ana, who had been living on the island since 2018. Spending six months of the year in Thailand and the rest on the Isle of Wight, Ana has seen firsthand how the island has changed. She explained that before the 2004 tsunami, Phi Phi was the authentic Thailand paradise you envision: wooden huts, palm trees, and untouched beaches. But unfortunately, the disaster destroyed so much of the infrastructure, locals had to rebuild from the ground up. 'The Thai people were so resilient and resourceful,' Ana told me. But as modern hotels and sprawling resorts sprang up, what made this place so special started to slip away. 'In the years I've lived on Phi Phi, I've seen it get busier and busier, especially during high season,' Ana said. Which is when the behaviour gets worse: people flick cigarette butts in the sea, leave rubbish on the beach, and feed monkeys cans of beer 'for a laugh.' I saw evidence of this. On a trip to the exquisite Monkey Beach, where we snorkelled amongst schools of colourful fish, I watched people harass the monkeys for the perfect Instagram shot. Ana said it really hit home how much damage tourists can cause when she spent time on the island during Covid. 'I saw so much of the landscape restored. The main party beach, which usually had murky water from boat petrol, was the clearest I'd ever seen it. It was so nice to see nature getting the break it needed.' Interestingly, in the two years since my visit, Ana explained that Phi Phi has been working to reduce its party reputation. By no means are they trying to shun it for good — they're just asking people to be more respectful. 'Phi Phi Island is a dream world. I've always said it's the best balance of paradise and party, with such beautiful places to discover if you venture off the party tourist track,' Ana said. I can also vouch for this: the iconic viewpoint took my breath away. More Trending The hike to the top was filled with magical moments, too. Locals stopped to talk to us, I enjoyed a fresh mango smoothie from a small cafe halfway up, and I met plenty of like-minded travellers along the way. All of whom shared my sadness for the behaviour on the beach. Ana is right. Everyone who visits this island says the same thing: that it leaves a special place in their heart. It's just a shame that the careless party actions of a few (which are always tourists and never locals) can ruin the reputation of such an extraordinary place. Who knows, when I head back to Thailand in 2026, perhaps I'll make a detour to Phi Phi. I can only hope that I experience the same island my friend fell in love with: one where tourists are considerate of the environment and the people around them. MORE: 'A city for strolling': The overlooked Spanish gem with £29 return flights MORE: This street in Europe is just 50cm wide and has traffic lights so tourists don't get stuck MORE: 'Birthplace of the Renaissance' crowned world's most walkable city — with UK flights from £44
Metro
09-07-2025
- Metro
I spent a weekend in one of Britain's 'worst places' and fell in love
In the 12th installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Jon Fellowes makes the case for Stoke-On-Trent, a city variously described as crap, unsexy and the worst place to live in the Midlands. If you're planning a weekend away in the UK, it's safe to say that some places come to mind quicker than others. It's even safer, perhaps, to say that Stoke-On-Trent was not at the top of your list. Despite getting some love as an underrated destination for 2025, the six towns that make up the city rarely feature in British tourist guides. Some residents even describe it as 'smoke on stench', a not-so-subtle nod to its industrial past. On YouTube, there's a video grimly titled 'Stoke: the city with no hope'. I was born less than an hour away, but Stoke has never featured in my travels. However, after my trip to the worst destination for a UK city break turned out to be nothing short of a roaring success, I am determined to, once again, give another of England's underrated spots a chance to shine. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. So, what does a weekend in 'the potteries' hold in store? As it turns out, a lot more than you might think. My first night in Stoke is spent just outside the city in one of its many 'satellites', a charming village named Swynnerton, 15 minutes drive from the city centre. My destination is The Fitzherbert Arms. Simply put, the Fitzherbert is everything you could want in a country pub. The interior is charming, the food delicious, and the accommodation both comfortable and affordably priced. Dating back to at least 1834, it's hard to miss after you drive down the unfortunately named 'Stab Lane' and into the lovely village of Swynnerton. After check-in, I'm taken to my room in 'the farmhouse' across the road. The rooms average £140 a night, but that can vary between midweek and weekend depending on which you choose to stay in. The tiny details are what really make this place stand out. From marble coat hangers on the backs of the doors to the intricate wrought-iron toilet tissue holder and 'Farmer's Wash' products, they all add up to a rustic aesthetic that somehow never feels dated or shabby, just charming. After check in , it's time to check out the pub and take a table for dinner. (Sorry.) The pub's aesthetic is what you might imagine — button-back armchairs, open fires, and cosy corners. It has a delightful little terrace at the back, which proves to be a nice spot for an early evening pint. I opt for some pub classics for dinner – starting with the traditional scotch egg (£4.95) and the 'legendary' Steak and Ale pie with chips and mushy peas (£17.95). Both are sumptuous comfort food, exactly what you want from a country boozer. Another highlight is the boozy vanilla pod ice cream (£7.95), which comes with a 'tot' of port and homemade carrot cake. The pub has a close relationship with the Symington family, known for their Port production in the Douro Valley. That's where it gets its nickname, the 'port pub'. And it's a name well-earned. The pub has what it describes as a 'bible' for all the ports behind the bar, and I feel like it would be rude not to opt for a measure before I retire for the night. For the rest of my stay, I am put up at the Hilton Garden Inn Stoke-on-Trent. I've always considered Hilton Garden Inn among the best affordable hotel chains, and this one is no exception. The rooms are clean, comfortable, and spacious for a city-centre hotel, and at around £90 (room only), they are reasonably priced. The views from my near top-floor room are magnificent, especially towards the evening when the sun sinks below the city skyline. However, the location is undoubtedly the best thing about the Hilton Garden Inn Stoke-on-Trent. Located in the middle of Hanley, it's within walking distance of many of the places I visit during my stay and just a short drive or Uber ride from the rest. The Hilton buffet breakfast is something to shout about and stands head and shoulders above its rivals in terms of quality and choice. Early on in the trip, I got to grips with what Stoke is best known for: the pottery industry. Long before it became the home of ceramics, the land around Stoke-on-Trent was mainly farmland, but not especially fruitful. However, what it lacked in crops, it made up for in resources for pottery, sparking a boom that would shape the city's identity for centuries to come. At one point, hundreds of potteries were spread around the city, with up to 6,000 'bottle ovens' firing thousands of pieces. Half the town was directly or indirectly employed in the industry, and the six towns of Stoke each specialised in their own styles and products. With such a rich history, it would be remiss not to get a good grounding in what has so obviously helped form the city I am in today. As such, one of my first stops is the Gladstone Pottery Museum, which proudly featured on Channel 4's The Great Pottery Throwdown. The site is easy to identify; the bottle ovens towering above its walls can be seen from all over the surrounding area. Formerly the Gladstone China Works, our tour proves to be a fascinating look into the history of potting in Stoke. During the visit, I'm also offered a chance to throw my own pot. I'll confess to being more than a little nervous at the thought of actually trying my hand at the practice. My head is filled with visions of walls covered in clay as I attempt to battle something not unlike the Robin Williams film Flubber. However, our guide, Kate, is patient and methodical in her instruction, and I somehow managed to fashion something that vaguely resembles a small vase – a complete win in my book. Prices for throwing start from just £1, plus admission (£8.75 for adults). One of the most surprising elements of my trip was my wander around the award-winning Trentham Gardens, a sprawling hub of nature and tranquillity minutes away from Stoke's busy centre. I don't know whether it's the beautiful weather or the good mood that avoiding pot-throwing oblivion that morning has engendered, but walking around Trentham Gardens proves to be the most wonderful part of the whole trip. The gardens centre around a mile-long lake designed by a man (with apologies to fans of landscaping) who I am astounded to learn was genuinely called 'Capability'. There was definitely some nominative determinism going on there, as strolling around Trentham Gardens and its lake on a summer's day is nothing short of enchanting. Once you have parked and walked through the main entrance, you cross the bridge into the site and are immediately confronted with a choice: head straight into the Italian Gardens or turn left and follow the water's edge. It doesn't matter which way you go; it's all stunning. After that, lunch at the Garden Tearooms is an excellent choice, with views that stretch right out across the lake. If your visit took you nowhere else but here, you would still consider it value for money. However, the woodland walks around the lake's edge create a stunning tapestry of nature, and it's well worth taking the time to do the whole loop. With families having picnics on the lush green lawns, children laughing and playing near the sparkling water, and swans and geese gliding across the surface, it's like being stuck in a Victorian oil painting in the best possible way. It's worth pointing out that The Trentham Estate is home to all sorts of activities, from extensive retail and hospitality offerings to its famed 'monkey forest', so even if the weather turns, there are still things to do. Entrance to Trentham Gardens is £13 for adults, with a 10% discount on early bird online tickets. While I'd definitely recommend a summer visit, they offer an excellent 50% off deal for a return trip if it rains for more than two hours between 10am and 3pm. While Stoke might not be the first city that comes to mind when you hear the phrase 'fine dining', the food and hospitality offerings in the potteries are yet another surprise on a trip already filled with them. On the second night of my three-day trip, I dined at Bar Fiesta, a restaurant that does not hold back with its decor. It's awash with a sea of colour, from fairy lights and bunting on the ceiling to multi-coloured stripes on the walls. My initial reaction was how decently priced everything seemed. Individual tapas plates start at £5.95, and there are plenty of deals on everything from Tacos to burgers and beyond. But it's the second night of my trip that delivers the culinary highlight. Little Dumpling King boasts 'HEAVY SCRAN. NATURAL WINE. LOUD MUSIC.' as their tagline, and they deliver on every front. The food is superb and is a combination of various Asian-inspired favourites mixed with surprising flavours. Some of my personal highlights were the Haggis Dumplings (£6.75), Salt & Pepper Hashies (£4.25), and LDK Chicken Rice (£13.75), all washed down with a delightfully refreshing Matt Gregory Bacchus/Seyval blend (£32 for a bottle). Every dish is delicious. If you're looking for a unique food offering in Stoke, LDK is highly recommended. Stoke is the ancestral home to a litany of musical stars, including pop god Robbie Williams and legendary bass player Lemmy of Motörhead. My hopes were high. On Friday night, I visited one of the city's bigger music venues, The Sugarmill. It hosts a healthy mix of touring bands, tributes and other events, but I'm here for a unique experience that proves quite the nostalgia trip: The 900 – the UK's first (and only) Tony Hawk's Pro Skater cover band. For those of a certain age (late 20s and early 30s in particular), the soundtrack of the Tony Hawk Pro Skater video games has something of a legendary status. Music-wise, my second night in Stoke proved a little more relaxed in tone (and volume) but no less enjoyable. I headed a little away from the city centre to a venue called Artisan Tap. If you imagine what an independent live music venue should look like, you're probably thinking of something like the Artisan. With a lighting rig that wouldn't be out of place in one of the smaller O2 venues, the sense of occasion that can be created from such a small venue is genuinely astounding. I'm here to see a band called Greg Murray & The Seven Wonders, who immediately deserve kudos for coming up with a cool band name in an age when this is no mean feat. Gigging a lot around Stoke and the wider Staffordshire area, Greg seems very much on home turf at the Artisan, and their music is well received by everyone in the audience right from the off. James Gregory Murray's superb songwriting is evident throughout the set, and the positive mix of upbeat pop-rock (infused with hints of Americana and even Latin in places) makes for a thoroughly enjoyable evening. A big shout-out also goes out to The Seven Wonders, who prove to be a tight band of excellent musicians. Sadly, I can't stay until the bitter end, as I have a late-night appointment at King's Hall for the night's final stop: Soul On Trent. Celebrating 60 years of Northern Soul, Motown, and Philly in Stoke, the event features a whole range of DJs spinning brilliant music late into the night. More Trending King's Hall is a stark contrast to the Artisan. The venue is vast and has seen some of the biggest names in popular music take to its stage, including The Beatles and The Rolling Stones in 1963. The selection of music for the event is excellent, and, while the average age range is perhaps a little older than my good self, the punters clearly have a ball. However, the day's packed schedule has taken its toll, and with tiredness creeping in, I don't spend a huge amount of time at the venue before it's time to call it a night. What is evident is that the music scene is very much alive and well in Stoke. Do you have a story to share? Get in touch by emailing MetroLifestyleTeam@ MORE: Going to the Maldives with children isn't 'brave', it's brilliant MORE: I veered inland in Vietnam and saw a side few tourists see MORE: I tried a 'hybrid holiday' and discovered the secret to work-life balance
Metro
04-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Metro
Corfu is a terrible tourist trap, but this Greek village captured my heart
In the eighth installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes , Maria Astardjieva shares her disappointment with Corfu — and Greece's mainland village that captured her heart. I remember the first time I saw Corfu from the sky; steep hills draped in lush greenery, white cliffs plunging into turquoise waters so clear you could see the underwater world. I was mesmerised. But it didn't take long to realise that I had fallen for a tourist trap. Previous trips to Greece had prepared me for scorching heat and dangerous roads. I was not prepared for swarms of rowdy holidaymakers, flooding quaint tavernas with drunken heckling, and sprawling cheek by jowl on pretty pebble beaches. I couldn't find one 'hidden gem' on the island, nor a single stretch of shoreline free from sunbeds. But a ferry to the mainland brought me to a true summer paradise. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. Before visiting Corfu, my hopes were high. Known for spectacular scenery and rich cultural heritage, the island is one of the most-visited destinations in Europe. The TikToks I'd thumbed through suggested I was in for the quintessential Greek summer experience, and despite the initial disappointment, I was determined to spend the next week basking in Mediterranean sun. We rented a car and set out in search of a quiet spot along the coast, but it wasn't to be. Pulling up to Rovinia, which is said to be a secluded, lesser-known beach, we spent an hour trying to find a parking spot. On the sand, we barely had space to set our bags down. Later, we tried the Canal d'Amour, in the village of Sidari, known for yellow sandstone cliffs that form a natural fjord-like canal. Legend has it that couples who swim through the canal together will be blessed with eternal happiness, while singles will find true love. I guess everyone was feeling romantic that day, because we ended up queuing for a glimpse of the water. Mealtimes were also miserable. On the occasions we managed to snag a table at a restaurant with Google reviews higher than 3.4 stars, we ended up paying around €50 (£43) per person for a few shared starters and a main. In one place, we were charged €16 for a pitiful Greek salad. Corfu's only redemption came when we rented a boat from Paleokastritsa beach. Setting us back around €200 (£170) for six hours, the boat allowed us to explore some of the beaches and underwater caves that are inaccessible by land. We dropped anchor at Stelari Beach and soaked up the silence until another boatload of tourists drifted in beside us. Even at sea, the island couldn't give us a break. Look, I get it. With return flights from London costing an average of £88, it's easy to see why Corfu welcomes more than 2 million tourists each year, a quarter of whom are British. The island was once ruled by Venice, and it now suffers the same plight: both places are overcrowded, overpriced and, in my opinion, totally overhyped. If you're looking for a Greek getaway that hasn't fallen foul of tourists, I found the perfect spot just across the water. Tucked in the hills of the mainland is Syvota, a quaint fishing village on the Ionian Sea — the same one that blesses Corfu, Kefalonia, Zakynthos, Lefkada, and Ksamil in Albania (often nicknamed the Maldives of Europe) with turquoise waters. Syvota has it all: delicious and affordable seafood, dreamy lagoons, sprawling beaches, boat tours, watersports, and west-facing views for golden-hour snaps. We spent the days lounging in Mikri Ammos beach bar, enjoying the silky sands of Agia Paraskevi beach, and putting our goggles on to explore the vibrant seabed of Mega Drafi beach. We ate world-class seafood at Diapori, a small family-run restaurant just off the main track. It didn't look like much at a glance, but the piled-high plates, flowing ouzo and melt-in-the-mouth squid made it unforgettable — all for just over €35 per person. An absolute must-do if you're staying anywhere on the Epirus coastline is a trip to the Paxos and Antipaxos islands. Taking a cruise for around €30 (£25) per person, we enjoyed a full day of white-cliffed coves and crystal clear waters, perfect for snorkelling. We stopped for lunch in Paxos's capital Gaios, where Fanalino restaurant served us freshly baked bread, olive tapenade, a refreshing Greek salad, and what was probably the best aubergine dip of my life. The colourful town also has plenty of cafes, moreish gelato, and dinky shops run by local designers. More Trending Just a 30-minute drive from Syvota is the picturesque town of Parga. Its colourful hillside houses, overlooked by an ancient Venetian castle, rival Italy's Amalfi coast for charm. We watched the sun set over Panagia, the small islet facing Parga with its romantic whitewashed chapel, and went for an evening stroll through the narrow streets teeming with life. Syvota may not be TikTok famous (yet), but that's exactly what makes it so special. If your idea of a holiday is Oxford Street in 34°C heat, Corfu is your dream destination. For an authentic Greek getaway, stay on the mainland. Skip the island prices: Eat, drink and sleep cheaper on the mainland — expect to pay €30-€40 (£25-£34) per person for a full meal with drinks in Syvota vs €50+ (£40+) in Corfu's tourist hubs. Rent a car, not taxis: Hiring a car from Igoumenitsa or Preveza starts at €35-€45 (£30-£38) per day and is cheaper than multiple taxis for beach hopping or day trips. Self-cater where you can: Many local apartments and villas have kitchens — great for breakfast runs to the local bakery or sunset mezze on the balcony. Take a group boat tour: Private boats are lovely but cost around €150-€200 (£130-£170) per day. Group cruises to Paxos/Antipaxos start from just €30 (£25). Travel off-peak: June and September have milder weather, lower prices, and far fewer crowds. How to get to Syvota ly direct to Corfu from London, Manchester, Bristol and Birmingham. Return flights can cost as little as £88 in shoulder season. From Corfu Airport: Taxi to the port (15 mins) Ferry to Igoumenitsa (1.5 hours, around €10–15) Taxi or car hire to Syvota (25 mins, around €30 taxi or car hire from €40 per day) Alternatively, fly to Preveza on the mainland, around a 90-minute drive from Syvota. Flights from London Stansted start from £71. MORE: Bugaboo launch the Butterfly 2 that makes family outings a breeze MORE: Little country surrounded by Italy has no airport and just 34,000 residents MORE: The best women's hiking clothes and accessories for successful summer hikes
Metro
14-05-2025
- Metro
I was vegetarian for 10 years – then I went to Asia's fried chicken haven
In the fifth installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes , Ruth Lawes pays tribute to the Asian city that changed how she eats. One hour after landing in South Korea, I broke a pledge of more than a decade. I'll admit it: I was one of those vegetarians who silently judged people chowing down on pulled pork sarnies. I extolled the virtues of hummus to anyone who would listen — but all of that changed when I went to Seoul. Travelling with my carnivorous boyfriend, I was hauled straight from the airport to a viral fried chicken joint in the Jongno District of Asia's 'city that never sleeps'. In Korea, food is for the soul as well as the stomach. And, in the interest of immersing myself in the country's most famous culinary culture, I decided to have just one tiny bite. That morsel was enough to break me. Thoughts of childhood roast dinners washed over me, and a powerful nostalgia for rotisserie chicken left no room for guilt. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. I had been corrupted, and the only course of action for this newly lapsed veggie was to embark on a chicken-eating odyssey around the South Korean capital. In the year since, I've allowed myself the occasional chicken hit. I try to stay veggie, but I'll never be as strict as I was before. Food trends come and go, but Korea's cuisine will always have a place in my heart. These are the restaurants in Seoul that will crack even the most ardent vegetarians. Reinstated as a card-carrying chicken-eater, we headed to Hannam Oriental Roast Chicken, a budget-friendly restaurant in bustling Myeongdong that serves only roast chicken along with banchan (traditional sides) such as kimchi. I surprised myself by devouring a whole chicken stuffed with fragrant garlic and ginseng rice. It tasted like spit-roasted clouds. Be prepared to wait for up to two hours, though. You can kill time by perching at one of the many trendy bars along the street; trust me, you'll be glad you did. Next, popular chain restaurant BB.Q Chicken was the perfect reprieve from Myeongdong, Seoul's non-stop shopping district, where you can buy bumper packs of collagen face masks and K-Pop merchandise. In the UK, a chain normally means limp sandwiches and underseasoned burgers, but in Korea, they do things differently. Unlike traditional Korean Fried Chicken (KFC), this place fries wings in olive oil. You get your choice of glaze, from honey garlic to 'secret sauce.' We kept it simple and opted for original with sinus-clearing 'hot spicy' batter. Another chain worth your time is Ddobagi Chicken, which makes KFC more palatable for anyone squeamish about meat. Their signature dish is boneless chicken wings, so you can at least try to pretend you're not eating an animal carcass. I recommend ordering takeout as the restaurant is located moments from the Han River. We ate alfresco with the locals, and I felt I was getting a taste of the 'real' Seoul. While I could have happily existed on a chicken-only diet in Seoul, this city is a culinary paradise. From punchy street food to refined dining, there's a smorgasbord of delicacies to try, and one of the most memorable was my meal atKalguksu Alley, an indoor strip of stalls selling knife-cut noodles. It's almost a contact sport to secure a spot in front of one of the vendors, but the reward is gargantuan bowls of noodles, handmade in front of you by Korean aunties for the equivalent of less than £5. Just a stone's throw from Kalguksu Alley is Gamekol Son Wangmandu, a shop selling crater-sized mandu (Korean dumplings). They have meat and vegetarian options (time for me to repent for my sins), and it's takeaway only. We stuffed our faces on the side of the road, but the holy ratio of kimchi stuffing to pillowy dough was worth the looks of bemusement from passers-by. You can't visit Seoul without eating your way around one of its many food markets. I was in awe of the juxtaposition of skyscrapers with ancient monuments, such as the former royal palace Gyeongbokgung, but markets are where you experience the city's true flavour. For an overload of the senses and the most authentic food, I recommend Gwangjang. The best dish we had by far was tteokbokki , cylindrical rice cakes served in a gochugang sauce, at Kangane Tteokbokki. What makes this stall unique is the addition of radishes to the tteokbokki stew, which adds a zesty texture. Hearty and comforting, I long for it every time I have a cold. I have travelled to nearly 50 countries, but only Korea cracked my vegetarianism. It had stiff competition: I've rejected chicken tinga tacos in Mexico City and was unmoved by the famous bistecca alla fiorentina in Florence. More Trending Seoul is my favourite city for food of all time. It's a bold claim, but I have never visited a place with such a rich tapestry of dishes, from barbequed eels to corn dogs. For that, I left my morals at the door. I don't recall a single disappointing dish, not even at an American-themed sports bar. And the best part? You'll have change from £10 for dinner with a beer. Since returning from Seoul, I have dabbled in chicken-eating, but nothing has come close to the high of my first bite at Hyodo Chicken. Who knows, maybe it will be beef next. MORE: The UK beach with 'crystal clear waters' named the best hidden coastal gem MORE: I was on easyJet's Eurovision flight and it was gloriously unhinged MORE: I've been to 89 countries — these are the 7 best places for solo travellers
