From foundation to setting spray – the products that aren't protecting you & the SPF ‘magic number' you need to wear

The Irish Sun

13 hours ago

THERE'S a lot you can do in 10 minutes – paint your nails, put the washing on, make an omelette…
And in the same amount of time, you could permanently harm your skin through unprotected sun exposure.
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When it comes to SPF, not all products are equal, so here's our essential guide
Credit: Getty
Shockingly, 40% of Brits only buy sunscreen when they go on holiday, and 14% admit to never applying SPF.*
What's more, an estimated 7 million of us admit to being confused about suncare.**
It's no surprise, when celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow suggest only applying sunscreen to the high points of your face, while doctors like Tim Spector suggest sun protection does more harm than good, and trad wife influencers insist we can make sunscreen at home with store-cupboard ingredients.
At the same time, the number of people diagnosed with melanoma in the UK has increased by almost half in the past decade,*** while non-melanoma skin cancer incidences have increased by more than two-fifths.†
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Plus, independent testing in the UK and Australia has controversially found some sunscreens don't quite provide the level of protection you might expect.
With such muddled messaging, it's hardly surprising that we're getting it wrong – but it's time to swot up and start taking suncare seriously.
So here's our expert approved guide...
SPF Application 101
If you were to apply the same amount that's used in lab testing - which works out at about two finger lengths of sunscreen to the face and neck, and 6-8 teaspoons of sunscreen for the whole body every time you reapply - the average woman would go through 100ml of SPF for each day spent on a beach.
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'But the way most of us apply sunscreen means we're getting about a third of the advertised protection," explains photobiologist Professor Brian Diffey of the British Association of Dermatology, who co-created the the UVA star rating system used on sunscreens in the UK.
"So, if you apply an SPF30, you'll end up with a protection factor equivalent to about 10.'
This makes picking a sunscreen you like the formula of – and are happy to apply more of – crucial.
The Perfect SPF Formula
'Ultimately, the best is one that you'll use consistently and correctly, so personal preference plays a significant role,' says Consultant Dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto.
These days, the choices are practically endless when it comes to sunscreen - which makes it even harder to decide which is right for you.
'Creams and lotions can be applied more evenly, providing better coverage, whereas oils and sprays may result in missed spots and sunburn,' Dr Ellie Rashid, consultant dermatologist and KLIRA medical director explains.
Plus, because of the amount of product you need to apply to reach the advertised coverage - products like foundation, setting spray and primer won't give you nearly what you might expect.
If you were applying enough foundation to get the SPF protection advertised on the bottle, you'd be going through a 30ml bottle every three and a half weeks, which would get expensive very quickly.
Hybrid formulas are also often less stable, because of the added ingredients, meaning the sun protection filters degrade faster than those in a dedicated sunscreen.
'Powders also aren't very effective at all, because you can't get a thick enough layer on the skin,' adds Professor Diffey - ruling out SPF boosted setting powders and dry shampoo as your only line of defence.
That doesn't mean they're completely useless.
Hybrid formulas can be helpful for topping up your protection throughout the day once you've already applied a sunscreen.
They're especially good on top of make-up, but be sure to apply more than you think, and re-apply frequently, as you won't be getting the protection factor advertised.
The Magic SPF Protection
Number
With sunscreens ranging from factor 2 to factor 100 lining the shelves - picking the right number might seem as hard as finding the right formula, but there's a much more straightforward answer.
"For general daily use year-round, an SPF of 30 is recommended for most people as it blocks about 97% of UVB rays.
"If you have fair skin, are prone to burning or have a family
history
of skin cancer, you should opt for SPF50," explains Dr Mahto.
"The same goes when spending time outdoors, at the beach or during sports."
No sunscreen can block 100% of UV rays, so combine it with other protection, such as wearing hats, sunglasses and seeking shade,' she adds.
So, there's no arguing, if you're going on a summer holiday, you should be taking the factor 50 with you.
More SPF, More Protection?
Another important thing to note, is that you can't layer SPFs to increase the protection value - for example, using a factor 15 foundation over an SPF50 sunscreen doesn't give you factor 65.
However, layering products will help ensure any gaps missed in the initial application are covered, and get you closer to the highest factor product all over.
It's one of Professor Diffey's top tips. "Apply sunscreen half an hour before going outside, then reapply it as soon as you get out," he says.
"That way, you're doubling the thickness of the layer of sunscreen and are more likely to cover up bits that you might have missed the first time.'
Because your first layer has absorbed before you apply the second, the overall coverage won't feel heavy or hard to rub in.
When you need to reapply depends on the sunscreen, so check the bottle. But the general rule is, reapply after swimming, towelling or at least every two hours.
The SPFs to Shop Now
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Beauty Editor Tara uses this SPF daily
Credit: Trinny London
Trinny London See The Light SPF 50+ Moisturiser, £46
This is the face SPF I reach for year round.
It truly feels like a lightweight moisturiser, even the packaging looks more like skincare than an SPF.
As well as the high UVA and UVB protection, it contains antioxidants to help reduce existing hyperpigmentation and brighten skin.
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This is a brilliant, affordable non-greasy SPF
Credit: Bondi Sands
Bondi Sands Everyday Non Tinted Face Fluid SPF50+, £7.99
This budget as been my go-to affordable recommendation for years, and it still gets rave reviews - you'd be hard pressed to find a more sophisticated formula for under £10.
The packaging makes it great for travel, and the sun-cream scent immediately puts me in holiday mode.
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For breakout prone skin, this SPF doesn't block pores
Credit: Bioderma
Bioderma XDefense Ultra Fluid SPF50+ Invisible, £19
This formula is extremely thin, so it doesn't feel cloying or oily on skin, and it absorbs in a matter of seconds so it's great for wearing under make-up as you don't have to wait for it to dry down.
Best of all, it's non-comodogenic so won't cause spots, which is a godsend as I just have to glance at the wrong product and I'll break out.
MOST COMMON SPF MISTAKES
No matter how sun safe you are, there's always room for improvement. These are the most common mistakes you might be making, according to Dr Anjali Mahto, Consultant Dermatologist at Self London
Not using enough - many people use too little sunscreen. An adult needs about one ounce (a shot glass full) to cover the entire body adequately.
Missed areas - areas like the ears, back of the neck, tops of the feet, and back of the hands are often overlooked but need protection too.
Not reapplying enough - sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours, or immediately after swimming, sweating, or towel-drying, even if it's labelled as water-resistant.
Waiting until you go outside - chemical sunscreen should be applied 20-30 minutes before going outdoors to allow it to absorb and provide effective protection.
Expired products - sunscreen loses its effectiveness over time. Always check the expiration date and replace any old products.
Only relying on sunscreen - while sunscreen is crucial, it should be part of a broader sun protection strategy that includes seeking shade, wearing protective clothing, hats, and sunglasses.
Sources: *Face The
Future
**La Roche-Posay ***Royalmarsden.
nhs
.uk †Cancer Research UK ††Current
Opinion
In Oncology