Boston University scholar traces Morocco's ancient brocade tradition in Fes

Ya Biladi

02-06-2025

A Boston University doctoral student is documenting the evolution of Morocco's centuries-old brocade weaving industry in the city of Fes, where the craft has persisted since medieval times despite significant changes in materials and techniques.
According to BU Today, Morgan Snoap, a PhD candidate in African art and Fulbright Student Researcher, has spent nine months in Fes studying how traditional brocade production has adapted to modern times while maintaining its cultural significance.
The research reveals that brocade weaving in Fes dates back to the 14th century, when ornate silk belts were essential wedding attire for both Muslim and Jewish women. These wide ceremonial belts featured intricate floral and geometric patterns and were wrapped multiple times around the waist over kaftans.
Today's brocade industry faces different realities. The original silk material has been replaced by rayon after Morocco's silkworms died out in the late 19th century, forcing weavers to rely on imported silk. The complex medieval «lampas» weaving technique has evolved into a simpler but still intricate hand-operated process using drawlooms.
Only four brocade workshops remain in Fes, where master weavers collaborate with drawmen to create designs. While ceremonial belts are no longer worn, brocade kaftans continue as wedding attire, and the fabric now decorates hotels, restaurants, and homes as furnishing material and curtains.