Yamada Serves Elegant Kaiseki At A Hidden Chinatown Chef's Counter

Forbes

5 days ago

Donabe, one of the final courses on Yamada's kaiseki tasting menu in Chinatown, New York
An esteemed Japanese chef just opened an intimate tasting counter in a discreet Chinatown alley.
Yamada, named for chef Isao Yamada, transports guests to a serene Japanese gastronomic adventure at a 10-seat restaurant in the newly renovated Canal Arcade (16 Elizabeth St.).
Through ten courses, served at two nightly seatings, guests will taste their way through hyper seasonal ingredients showcasing various Japanese cooking techniques. Similar to omakase, kaiseki is a traditional Japanese meal that allows the chef to lead the experience, building a sense of trust between the diner and the kitchen, plus an element of surprise as each artful course is created in front of guests.
Chawanmushi at Yamada in New York City
'I'm excited about is the growing presence of kaiseki cuisine in New York,' Yamada says. 'While the city has long embraced sushi, it's encouraging to see more chefs exploring the depth and nuance that define kaiseki. I hope this signals the beginning of a new wave in Japanese dining that allows guests to engage more with Japan's cultural and culinary heritage, and opens the door for more expressions of Japanese cuisine beyond what most are familiar with.'
What is Kaiseki?
'Kaiseki is often described as the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine, not just for its technique, but for the philosophy it carries,' says Yamada. 'Traditionally, kaiseki chefs worked behind closed doors while guests dined in private rooms. This structure was meant to create an atmosphere of privacy and tranquility, as many diners were high ranking lords or members of the imperial court. The idea of watching a chef prepare food in front of you would have disrupted the quiet elegance of the experience.'
At Yamada, the chef reinterprets tradition for a modern audience: At the intimate 10 seat chef's counter, diners can watch each course come to life.
Spring Hassun, an assortment of seasonal delicacies, at Yamada
'The mindfulness and calmness that defines kaiseki are still very much present, but at my restaurant, they're joined by openness, intention, and a direct connection between myself and the guest,' Yamada says. 'We also honor tradition by following the classical structure of kaiseki – the progression of dishes and the range of traditional techniques like simmering, grilling, steaming, and frying.'
Yamada's Kaiseki Experience
'Yamada is a New York City restaurant, and I've allowed it to be shaped by my time here,' Yamada says. His cooking balances the delicate, restrained flavors of traditional kaiseki with the richer, more robust flavors he's explored in Western kitchens.
As is traditional in kaiseki, seasonality is the foundation for each dish on the menu. 'My goal is to connect each guest to a specific moment in time capturing the spirit of the season through ingredients at their peak,' Yamada says.
Though the ten-course menu officially changes quarterly, small tweaks respond to peak freshness, rare, and hyperseasonal Japanese ingredients like karashi mustard leaf, morels, barred knifejaw, and beyond. Each dish is artistically plated on custom serving pieces from Japan.
Chef Isao Yamada plating at his eponymous restaurant
The spring menu opens with sakizuke, a bite of Hokkaido monkfish liver simmered in sweet soy, paired with Mediterranean red shrimp dressed with spring clams and served with kinome ponzu.
Chawanmushi, the second course on the tasting menu, is a tribute to chef David Bouley (a friend and longtime collaborator of Yamada). 'He was one of the first to introduce truffle into dashi, a technique that left a lasting impression on me and now serves as the foundation of this dish,' Yamada says. 'Our version is delicate and expressive with a silky, savory custard infused with fragrant truffle dashi and layered with seasonal ingredients from the sea.'
Next, tsukuri, showcases a selection of sashimi that has been aged, lightly smoked, marinated, or prepared using expert techniques to enhance its flavors. Next, Hassun (seasonal delicacies), Mebaru (a cooked fish course), and grilled wagyu featuring sakura leaf-aged organic A5 Wagyu.
Grilling wagyu at Yamada
The final savory course is a showstopping donabe, a traditional Japanese clay pot dish that offers a moment of warmth, generosity, and shared experience as Yamada presents it to the tasting counter and then serves it communally. Made with Alaskan King crab, ikura, uni and ramps, the rice-based dish is served with miso soup and nukazuke (Japanese pickle) fermented in a 400 year old starter.
The experience concludes with dessert and a traditional tea ceremony, offering space to reflect, to restore, and to carry a sense of calm back out into the world. To drink throughout the meal, diners can also opt for beverages beyond traditional sake pairings, with wine and shochu poured to compliment each course.
'At Yamada, my goal is to offer the chance to slow down, breathe, and reconnect with the present,' Yamada says. 'Our design is minimalist, yet warm and inviting with joyful pops of pastel color. Everything was carefully selected to evoke a sense of quiet tranquility. Our intimate chef's counter allows for focus and connection. Here, guests are invited to witness each course take shape in front of them, to follow the rhythm of the meal, and to feel a sense of presence with the story unfolding on the plate.'
The tasting counter at Yamada in Downtown Manhattan
In a world that's so heavy on digital experience, the meal emphasizes all five senses: the touch of the smooth Hinoki wood counter; the gentle sounds of slicing, stirring, pouring, and grilling; the faint scent of burnt cedar that signals the meal's end, the warmth of matcha cupped between your hands, and the vibrant colors and flavors of nature on each plate.
'My hope is that guests leave feeling nourished not only by the food, but by the experience as a whole,' Yamada says.
Yamada is open Tuesday through Saturday with seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. Reservations are required and can be booked all up to 14 days in advance via Resy or by emailing [e-mail].