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Travel + Leisure
15-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Travel + Leisure
This Is Japan's Most Exciting Food City—and the Best Places to Eat, According to a Local Chef
At 18, Shota Nakajima left his home in Seattle to attend Tsuji Culinary Institute, in Osaka. 'It's like the Harvard of cooking schools in Japan,' says Nakajima, who was born in Tokyo. 'The teachers are brutally honest and teach you humility.' The intense training set him up for success as a restaurant owner—back in Seattle, he ran Naka, a kaiseki restaurant, and a fried-chicken spot, Taku, which closed in March. He has also been a contestant on television cooking competitions, including Beat Bobby Flay and Top Chef . From left: The Shinsekai neighborhood of Osaka, with Tsutenkaku Tower in the background; Chikyu (Planet Earth), a vegetable dish at the Michelin threestarred restaurant Hajime. From left: Andrea Fazzari; Hajime Osaka, the host city for this year's World Fair, Expo 2025, is often called 'the kitchen of Japan.' Its historically blue-collar culinary image is built around street food that Nakajima says is the best in Japan, like takoyaki (fried dough balls with octopus), okonomiyaki (a savory pancake), and oshizushi (pressed sushi). Here, Nakajima, who visits Osaka every year—shares his favorite spots in the city. Naniwa Kappo Kigawa 'Founded by chef Shuzo Ueno, this restaurant has been around for more than 50 years, and is famous for kappo-style cuisine, where chefs serve customers at a counter. It's in a tiny alley that's only a few feet wide, in the busiest part of Osaka.' Gochisou Nene 'I love this cozy tempura and oden spot. Akimura Tomonori, the husband, trained in tempura at a Michelin-starred restaurant, and Kimura Nozomi, the wife, trained in kaiseki.' Hajime 'If there's a quintessential Osaka-style French restaurant, this is it.' Bar Yoshida 'A classy bar located in Kitashinchi, often considered the Ginza of Osaka. Perfect for a refined cocktail experience.' Tsutenkaku 'This neighborhood is famous for kushi katsu fried skewers. Explore different shops and don't miss the doteyaki, slow-cooked beef tendon with miso.' Sakamoto 'I worked at this restaurant for four years after culinary school before returning to Seattle to open Naka. The chef retired a few years ago, but his son Hiroyuki Sakamoto is running the kitchen now. The beef katsu is one of the best in the city. It has a béchamel-based sauce made with pork kakuni braising liquid.' Tsukimi, the main restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria Osaka. André Fu—the Hong Kong interiors architect behind hotels such as Shangri-La Tokyo—has outdone himself with the new Waldorf Astoria Osaka, which debuted in April. Fu drew Art Deco inspiration from the original Waldorf Astoria New York (set to reopen this fall after a massive renovation), along with Osaka's Yodoko Guest House, the only surviving Frank Lloyd Wright residence in Japan. Related: The Newest Hotel in Osaka, Japan, Is in One of the City's Most Impressive Buildings, With an On-site Onsen and an 11-acre Park Next Door There are subtle peacock-tail motifs throughout the hotel, from the kumiko woodwork headboards to the washi paper in the elevator. Tsukimi, a teppanyaki spot, is the hotel's signature restaurant, and one that Nakajima can't wait to try. 'I love the idea of a tasting menu with tea pairings, and I look forward to trying the Wagyu from Ishigaki Island,' he says. A version of this story first appeared in the August 2025 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline "Osaka, Old and New. "
Forbes
24-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Yamada Serves Elegant Kaiseki At A Hidden Chinatown Chef's Counter
Donabe, one of the final courses on Yamada's kaiseki tasting menu in Chinatown, New York An esteemed Japanese chef just opened an intimate tasting counter in a discreet Chinatown alley. Yamada, named for chef Isao Yamada, transports guests to a serene Japanese gastronomic adventure at a 10-seat restaurant in the newly renovated Canal Arcade (16 Elizabeth St.). Through ten courses, served at two nightly seatings, guests will taste their way through hyper seasonal ingredients showcasing various Japanese cooking techniques. Similar to omakase, kaiseki is a traditional Japanese meal that allows the chef to lead the experience, building a sense of trust between the diner and the kitchen, plus an element of surprise as each artful course is created in front of guests. Chawanmushi at Yamada in New York City 'I'm excited about is the growing presence of kaiseki cuisine in New York,' Yamada says. 'While the city has long embraced sushi, it's encouraging to see more chefs exploring the depth and nuance that define kaiseki. I hope this signals the beginning of a new wave in Japanese dining that allows guests to engage more with Japan's cultural and culinary heritage, and opens the door for more expressions of Japanese cuisine beyond what most are familiar with.' What is Kaiseki? 'Kaiseki is often described as the pinnacle of Japanese cuisine, not just for its technique, but for the philosophy it carries,' says Yamada. 'Traditionally, kaiseki chefs worked behind closed doors while guests dined in private rooms. This structure was meant to create an atmosphere of privacy and tranquility, as many diners were high ranking lords or members of the imperial court. The idea of watching a chef prepare food in front of you would have disrupted the quiet elegance of the experience.' At Yamada, the chef reinterprets tradition for a modern audience: At the intimate 10 seat chef's counter, diners can watch each course come to life. Spring Hassun, an assortment of seasonal delicacies, at Yamada 'The mindfulness and calmness that defines kaiseki are still very much present, but at my restaurant, they're joined by openness, intention, and a direct connection between myself and the guest,' Yamada says. 'We also honor tradition by following the classical structure of kaiseki – the progression of dishes and the range of traditional techniques like simmering, grilling, steaming, and frying.' Yamada's Kaiseki Experience 'Yamada is a New York City restaurant, and I've allowed it to be shaped by my time here,' Yamada says. His cooking balances the delicate, restrained flavors of traditional kaiseki with the richer, more robust flavors he's explored in Western kitchens. As is traditional in kaiseki, seasonality is the foundation for each dish on the menu. 'My goal is to connect each guest to a specific moment in time capturing the spirit of the season through ingredients at their peak,' Yamada says. Though the ten-course menu officially changes quarterly, small tweaks respond to peak freshness, rare, and hyperseasonal Japanese ingredients like karashi mustard leaf, morels, barred knifejaw, and beyond. Each dish is artistically plated on custom serving pieces from Japan. Chef Isao Yamada plating at his eponymous restaurant The spring menu opens with sakizuke, a bite of Hokkaido monkfish liver simmered in sweet soy, paired with Mediterranean red shrimp dressed with spring clams and served with kinome ponzu. Chawanmushi, the second course on the tasting menu, is a tribute to chef David Bouley (a friend and longtime collaborator of Yamada). 'He was one of the first to introduce truffle into dashi, a technique that left a lasting impression on me and now serves as the foundation of this dish,' Yamada says. 'Our version is delicate and expressive with a silky, savory custard infused with fragrant truffle dashi and layered with seasonal ingredients from the sea.' Next, tsukuri, showcases a selection of sashimi that has been aged, lightly smoked, marinated, or prepared using expert techniques to enhance its flavors. Next, Hassun (seasonal delicacies), Mebaru (a cooked fish course), and grilled wagyu featuring sakura leaf-aged organic A5 Wagyu. Grilling wagyu at Yamada The final savory course is a showstopping donabe, a traditional Japanese clay pot dish that offers a moment of warmth, generosity, and shared experience as Yamada presents it to the tasting counter and then serves it communally. Made with Alaskan King crab, ikura, uni and ramps, the rice-based dish is served with miso soup and nukazuke (Japanese pickle) fermented in a 400 year old starter. The experience concludes with dessert and a traditional tea ceremony, offering space to reflect, to restore, and to carry a sense of calm back out into the world. To drink throughout the meal, diners can also opt for beverages beyond traditional sake pairings, with wine and shochu poured to compliment each course. 'At Yamada, my goal is to offer the chance to slow down, breathe, and reconnect with the present,' Yamada says. 'Our design is minimalist, yet warm and inviting with joyful pops of pastel color. Everything was carefully selected to evoke a sense of quiet tranquility. Our intimate chef's counter allows for focus and connection. Here, guests are invited to witness each course take shape in front of them, to follow the rhythm of the meal, and to feel a sense of presence with the story unfolding on the plate.' The tasting counter at Yamada in Downtown Manhattan In a world that's so heavy on digital experience, the meal emphasizes all five senses: the touch of the smooth Hinoki wood counter; the gentle sounds of slicing, stirring, pouring, and grilling; the faint scent of burnt cedar that signals the meal's end, the warmth of matcha cupped between your hands, and the vibrant colors and flavors of nature on each plate. 'My hope is that guests leave feeling nourished not only by the food, but by the experience as a whole,' Yamada says. Yamada is open Tuesday through Saturday with seatings at 5:30 p.m. and 8:30 p.m. Reservations are required and can be booked all up to 14 days in advance via Resy or by emailing reserve@
South China Morning Post
04-06-2025
- Business
- South China Morning Post
How Malaysia's wealth of produce inspires Japanese chef at K kaiseki in Kuala Lumpur
Almost five years after the 2020 closure of two-Michelin-star Tenku RyuGin in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, former chef de cuisine Hidemichi Seki has embarked on his next culinary adventure. Advertisement He was on hiatus in his homeland, Japan, when the team from Malaysian hospitality group Ilham Dining Concepts (IDC) came knocking in 2022, inviting him to start his own restaurant in Kuala Lumpur. Seki launched his first restaurant, K, in February 2025. On the 37th floor of the Foster and Partners-designed Ilham Tower, the kaiseki restaurant offers a generous 15-course tasting menu. Despite receiving offers from restaurants in Japan, Seki chose to move to Malaysia's capital, wanting to see more of the world while still living close to nature. K kaiseki restaurant opened on the 37th floor of the Ilham Tower in Kuala Lumpur in March 2025. Photo: K Kuala Lumpur 'I've always wanted to gain more diverse experiences overseas and immerse myself in different cultures,' he says. Advertisement
Forbes
27-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Chef Sono Brings Kaiseki Downtown At Kappo Sono
Kappo Sono is not the kind of place you stumble upon. Tucked away on the sixth floor of a small building on a quiet street near Union Square, this quiet den is as discreet as it is transportive. With just 12 seats arounds a U-shaped bar overlooking downtown Manhattan, dining here feels less like a reservation and more like initiation into the cult of Sono. Chef Chikaro Sono Holding court is Chef Chikaro Sono, a beloved figure in New York's fine dining scene who's celebrated for his mastery of kaiseki—the traditional Japanese multi-course meal that emphasizes seasonality, precision and artistry. Sono hails from Hokkaido, Japan, where he honed his culinary skills in kitchens before relocating to New York in 1986. He rose to prominence as executive chef of Kyo Ya, a hidden gem in the East Village, which earned a Michelin star and a three-star review from The New York Times. Chef Sono's reputation is that he doesn't just cook—he composes, edits and refines his dishes until each resemble perfection. His menus shift monthly with the tides of Japan's fish markets and the moods of the moment. One of the 13 courses at Kappo Sono At Kappo Sono, it's not just the menu selections that stand out. There's the beverage program, a masterclass in pairing, helmed by Leo Lê—formerly of two-Michelin-star Uchu. This spring, he's pouring shiboritate sakes—just-pressed, unpasteurized and fizzy. They're the first bottles of the 2024 brewing season to hit the US. The dining counter at Kappo Sono As of last week, Kappo Sono is offering its $350, three-hour, 13-course kaiseki dinner from Wednesday through Saturday, featuring a newly reimagined menu crafted for late spring and early summer. Expect assorted sashimi, soft shell turtle soup with suppon buns, Madai dumplings, seasonal sushi wrapped in bamboo leaves and grilled Mishima Wagyu filet mignon. The dinner comes with a standard beverage pairing for $225 and a premium beverage pairing for $450. Both pairings consist of at least 10 expressions of Japanese sakes and French wines. The standard pairing focuses on seasonal sakes and classic Burgundies, while the premium pairing highlights rare, celebrated sakes and premier-cru/grand-cru Burgundies and Champagnes. Don't forget to leave room for dessert. Alongside his longtime team, Chef Sono welcomed acclaimed Pastry Chef Norie Uematsu to the kitchen. Known for her precision and artistry, Norie brings a refined, seasonal approach to desserts that beautifully complement the dinner. The result is dinner that borders on theater - one that will leave guests satisfied, slightly in awe and longing for their next kaiseki experience.
Japan Times
17-05-2025
- Business
- Japan Times
A Japanese dining icon gets a (minor) facelift
Every once in a while, even a dining stalwart needs to be renovated. But when the institution in question is as revered as Nadaman Sazanka-so, deference must be given to the heritage within its very walls. Nadaman Sazanka-so was first established in Osaka in 1830 before moving to Tokyo's Hotel New Otani in 1974. The restaurant specializes in kaiseki (multicourse Japanese haute cuisine). While other Nadaman branches have opened in high-end hotels in Japan and overseas over the decades, the flagship Nadaman Sazanka-so remains a special dining destination. Its location in the center of Hotel New Otani's 400-year-old Japanese garden lends it a rustic air — a peaceful getaway from the city's hustle and bustle. The building, with its teahouse aesthetics designed by the late architect Togo Murano, is considered a masterpiece in traditional architecture. Nadaman Sazanka-so is nestled in Hotel New Otani's Japanese garden, offering diners a serene atmosphere to experience its elegant, refined cuisine. | NADAMAN When the team at Nadaman Sazanka-so closed the restaurant for its refurbishment in September 2024, they adopted a careful, understated approach. The restaurant officially reopened its doors on March 28, 2025. The aging bathrooms and kitchen floors were renovated, and new carpets were installed. Most of the hushed, elegant dining rooms have been left unchanged except for the Aoi no Ma room, which had its previous horigotatsu (low tables with recessed floors) seating converted into Western-style tables and chairs for added comfort. According to Yuko Tate, the restaurant's public relations executive, this particular seating change was requested by many customers. Fuji no Ma, an intimate four-seater dining room that was previously reserved for limited use, is now available for reservations, taking the restaurant's total seating capacity from 38 to 44. The 20-seat Hanagiri no Ma room, which played host to U.S. President Ronald Reagan and U.K. Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher during the Tokyo Summit in 1986, remains the biggest dining chamber. It's quietly stunning, thanks to its ceiling lined with washi (traditional Japanese paper) that filters sunlight, and a wide view of the Japanese garden that offers a striking canvas of nature's seasonal colors. The foie gras "chawanmushi" (Japanese egg custard) was such a hit that chef Takehiko Yoshida has retained it as a mainstay on his menu. | NADAMAN While kaiseki is traditionally a course that changes with the season's bounty, head chef Takehiko Yoshida is flexible enough to retain on his menu a couple of dishes that have been a hit with guests, namely, the foie gras chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard) — it melts in your mouth with a rich umami flavor — as a steamed dish. Yoshida himself is all too familiar with Nadaman's culinary ethos, having worked at Nadaman's outpost in Island Shangri-La in Hong Kong and later helming Nadaman's Shangri-La Tokyo and Shinjuku branches before taking over Nadaman Sazanka-so this year. He exhibits a flair for bringing out nuanced flavors in his dishes through simple, light combinations of ingredients, a restraint that is very much appreciated in the lengthy multicourse kaiseki. For example, a white sesame tofu crowned with sea urchin to create a fine balance of nutty and briny accents, and Kobe beef simmered in a pot with sanshō pepper flowers that lend delicate notes of citrus and spice. Beef also gets to shine in the Kuroge wagyu course. Previously, the course had only steak as the main dish, but Yoshida is now showcasing the meat cooked and presented in various ways, a move that demonstrates his willingness to experiment with new dining options for a modern crowd. Nadaman Sazanka-so; Hotel New Otani (Japanese Garden), 4-1 Kioicho, Chiyoda Ward, Tokyo; lunch, from ¥33,000; dinner, from ¥50,160; Tel: 03-3264-7921
