
Review: I tried Tom Kitchin's Michelin Star lunch menu in Edinburgh
I perform a quick mental run-through of all the restaurants I've visited over the years as each page is turned. Qualms over carbon footprints aside, would any of them warrant that level of commitment to be here today?
Perhaps The Kitchin will be the first. And if so, what great luck for me that it's taken just a train to Edinburgh and a stroll down Leith Walk to make my reservation.
Priced at £69.00, the Lunch Menu is comprised of three courses with the option to splurge one step further should the selection of fine Scottish cheeses displayed in a neat trolley on the restaurant floor catch your eye.
Judging by the number of tables that have ordered thin-stemmed glasses of champagne as a precursor to their meal, I'd wager a couple of extra quid for the pleasure won't be an issue for most.
The interiors at The Kitchin share a theme with those at chef Tom Kitchin's Stockbridge venue Scran and Scallie, which I visited earlier this year after the Gastropub was once again named as the best of its kind in Scotland.
(Read more: It's £25 for ham, eggs and chips at Scotland's Best Gastropub - and worth every penny)
Stag printed wallpaper, 'distressed' upholstery and flourishes of velvet or fluffy faux fur on stools used as a perch for designer handbags, there's a circa 2013 twee-ness to it all. Like you've walked into the section of a glossy home interiors mag titled 'highland chic'.
It's fitting for the menu, though, with the philosophy here said to be 'a true reflection of passion for the finest, freshest Scottish seasonal produce'. A small, illustrated map handed over sometime before a boule of crusty, warm bread arrives at the table confirms that the ingredients used for the lunch menu have been sourced from across Scotland's land and sea.
Before we get to the courses I've selected from the set menu (there were three options for starters mains and desserts as well as a fully veggie alternative) there are a few small bites including a pani puri-esque wheat puffed shell filled with a super light, savoury mousse followed by a teeny-tiny ball of beetroot with big earthy flavour.
Pictured: Lobster and Prawn dumpling on pea and lovage velouté (Image: Newsquest) Serving tables is a two-person job at The Kitchin, and once the warm-up dishes have been cleared away, a duo approaches the table, one carrying a tray and the other poised to gently lift a plate of Newhaven lobster and prawn dumpling, pea and lovage velouté and lobster shell oil from it so that each element looks exactly as it did when leaving the pass.
It's a visually striking dish, the vibrant green of the pea velouté surrounding a dumpling that's smooth and pale in contrast. The mystery as to what this outer layer is hiding, along with the aroma from that fragrant lobster shell oil, demands that you sit up and pay attention. Who cares about any leftover bread from the pre-starters? This is the only thing in the restaurant I want to be eating right now.
Tearing through the outer layer reveals plenty of gorgeous Scottish seafood stuffed into this pocket of goodness, firm, fresh and utterly delicious. The outer coating of the dumpling, it transpires, is a fraction too thick, meaning that I never fully lose myself in the dish as I'd like to. With each spoonful, the delicate flavours and texture of smooth, sweet peas are overshadowed by a nagging chewiness. Still, it's a strong start, refined yet warm and comforting.
Pictured: Pork Loin with braised violet artichoke and black olive tapenade (Image: Newsquest)
Next, it's Clash Farm pork loin with braised violet artichoke and black olive tapenade. It's not quite as pretty as the starter, four strips of meat laid out like toast soldiers atop a glossy jus that's just slightly seeped from a neat circle and edged towards the rim of the plate.
There are some serious, salty flavours battling it out here. The artichokes, buttery soft and herbaceous, a spoonful of potent olive tapenade and a meaty jus reduced until almost sticky and intense. Then there's the pork to pull it all back from the brink, with the delicate layer of fat in particular benefiting from the punchiness of it all.
Read more:
We're back on top form presentation-wise with the dessert of Yuzu meringue tart torched gently until golden brown and nestled into a ring of plump Colbeggie farm berries with a quenelle of strawberry sorbet on the side.
Pictured: The 'Strawberry and Bramble' dessert (Image: Newsquest)
It's a superb pud, a happy marriage of tangy citrus and marshmallow-like Italian meringue executed with a delicate touch. Berries are one of Scotland's greatest seasonal treasures, and a mix of brambles and raspberries effortlessly elevates the dish.
Because he's gone all in with the tasting menu, and tackled almost twice as many courses as I have, the man from London has finished his meal only just before me.
As I savour the final spoonful of dessert, he fills the waiter in on his plans for the connecting train journeys that will see him home later that evening. He seems content that the meal has been worth it, 'I don't usually like scallops,' he says, 'but that was unlike any I've ever tasted before."
I'm glad to hear his efforts have not been in vain, and if the lunch menu has provided a snapshot of what's on offer in the tasting menu, can watch him leave feeling confident that The Kitchin has lived up to expectations.
The Kitchin is located at 82 Commercial Street in Edinburgh

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Daily Mirror
9 hours ago
- Daily Mirror
BBC Antiques Road Trip shares huge announcement after 15 years on air
The much-loved daytime show has been given a huge announcement, as it celebrates being on air for 15 years In its milestone 15th year broadcasting, Antiques Road Trip has secured another commission from BBC Daytime for a 32nd series on BBC One and BBC iPlayer. Viewers of the beloved afternoon programme can look forward to 20 fresh episodes, featuring two rival antiques specialists battling it out weekly to discover the most lucrative collectables. Adding to the excitement, the production company has also received the green light for a fifth series of The Travelling Auctioneers, which has proven popular since its 2022 debut. A description states: "The show sees auctioneering experts join forces with masters of restoration to uncover neglected treasures in family homes which, with some TLC, can be turned into winning lots at auction." For the fifth series, specialists Izzie Balmer, JB Broad and Bee Harford return, alongside restoration professionals JJ Chalmers, Robin Johnson, Lauren Wood and Saf Fakir, reports Edinburgh Live. Specialist Izzie will also feature in the upcoming Antiques Road Trip series, going toe-to-toe with Mark Hill throughout a week's worth of episodes. Speaking about her dual role, Izzie remarked: "The Antiques Road Trip and Travelling Auctioneers teams have become like family to me. In fact, I sometimes see them more than my actual family.. "I wouldn't have it any other way though, because these shows are great fun, full of heart, and have just the right amount of jeopardy to keep you on the edge of your seat... without spilling your cuppa! I know how much they mean to our viewers and I'm thrilled to be back filming on them both." Muslim Alim, Commissioning Editor for BBC Daytime and Early Peak, expressed their excitement about the news: "These shows are TV gold packed with great stories, brilliant finds and led by experts in their field. "Antiques Road Trip and The Travelling Auctioneers have become firm favourites with our audiences and it's easy to see why: they're warm, feel-good and endlessly entertaining. I'm absolutely thrilled we're bringing them back and hugely grateful to the top-tier talent at STV Studios who make them so special." On the other hand, Craig Hunter, Creative Director of STV Studios Factual, said: "We're thrilled by the BBC's continued commitment to supporting these shows, which represents a strong vote of confidence in the Scottish production sector. "Antiques Road Trip and The Travelling Auctioneers provide year-round employment for the freelance community, offering a great opportunity for new starts to the industry and career development across the board. "We continue to refine both brands to produce more jeopardy, more expertise and even more entertainment for the daytime audience."


The Herald Scotland
13 hours ago
- The Herald Scotland
New bus service confirmed for Scottish city
Councillor Ken Gowans, Chair of the Council's Economy and Infrastructure Committee said: 'Following recent route changes by Stagecoach, our in-house team have stepped in to create this new service so residents and visitors can still enjoy regular and reliable public transport in and around [[Inverness]].' The 100 service will operate Monday to Friday, providing an off-peak connection between the city centre, Crown. Kingsmills, Raigmore Hospital, Inshes Retail Park, the Stevenson Road area, the UHI Campus and Inverness Retail & Business Park, with three journeys each way per day. READ MORE: Scottish Government intervene in Glasgow O2 ABC site plans 'Another significant step forward' for city centre transformation Cllr Gowans added: 'I'd like to thank our team for their work to set up this service so quickly in response to the needs of communities. Having the ability to be flexible and to react to customer demands is one of main benefits of investing in council bus services.' The timetable for the 100 service will be made available on the Council's website


Scotsman
15 hours ago
- Scotsman
How SNP and Labour are putting future of Scottish tourism industry at risk
Sign up to our daily newsletter – Regular news stories and round-ups from around Scotland direct to your inbox Sign up Thank you for signing up! Did you know with a Digital Subscription to The Scotsman, you can get unlimited access to the website including our premium content, as well as benefiting from fewer ads, loyalty rewards and much more. Learn More Sorry, there seem to be some issues. Please try again later. Submitting... Not that you would think it from the torrential rain showers we've been experiencing recently, but we are at the height of the Scottish tourist season. Driving up the A9 north at the weekend, I could not help but notice the number of visitors' vehicles parked in laybys along the road, as people took photographs of mist-covered hills. These scenes, welcome as they are, rather belie the real underlying story affecting Scottish tourism and hospitality sectors. Because what we hear from the industry is that while international visitor numbers have generally held up well, there are very real concerns about the domestic market, which won't be helped by another wet and windy summer. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Scottish families are once again crowding to our airports in search of sunnier climes rather than holidaying at home, and the cost of living means that visitor spend for those staying home is being squeezed. Edinburgh in August is a boom-time for the tourism sector, but in many parts of the country this important industry is struggling (Picture: Jeff J Mitchell) | Getty Images Industry warnings and job losses According to the Scottish Tourism Alliance, in 2024 the 16,000 businesses operating across the tourism and hospitality sectors in Scotland employed a total of 245,000 people, and generated revenues of £16.5 billion, 9 per cent of Scotland's economy. But Marc Crothal, STA's chief executive, warns that in recent months trading conditions have become far more difficult for many operators, and only look set to become more challenging still. Government measures are undoubtedly having a detrimental impact on the sector. Latest figures from the Office for National Statistics reveal that the UK hospitality sector has lost 84,000 jobs since Rachel Reeves' Budget and the increase in employers' National Insurance, with the industry the hardest hit sector of the economy. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad That was a decision taken by the UK Labour government, but the SNP administration in Holyrood cannot be exempted from the blame for the current difficult situation. The botched introduction of short-term let licensing has led to many smaller operators choosing to withdraw from the market altogether, given the additional costs and bureaucracy involved in complying with an overly complex scheme. Those who remain face additional financial burdens. All this for a system which was far too broad in its reach and should never have been applied on a national basis, but introduced only where there was specific local need. The same Scottish Government has failed to pass on the rates relief available to retail, hospitality and leisure businesses in England from the UK Government to Scottish businesses for two years now, putting our operators at a competitive disadvantage. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad READ MORE: New push to highlight significant benefits of visitor economy to Scotland 'Unnecessary and avoidable' And now we have the visitor levy currently being considered by council administrations across Scotland. First out of the traps has been Edinburgh, setting the levy at 5 per cent, plus VAT, on all accommodation bookings in the city, to apply from April next year. It is a scheme which has been heavily criticised by the industry as 'unworkable', with no guidance having been issued to operators as to how to apply and pay the levy back to the council. According to tourism leaders, the current timeline for those required to apply the levy 'places unnecessary and avoidable strain on the sector', which is already struggling with rising costs. Other councils are following suit, with consultations being launched across Scotland on whether the levy should be introduced. Fortunately, some, like Aberdeenshire, are extending their deadline for responses, after starting to realise the issue is more complex than it first appears. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad But the question of a visitor levy goes beyond simply the matter of the administrative burden of collection. There is a much more serious matter to be considered: whether Scottish tourism can really afford, in a competitive international market, to make itself even more expensive with this new tax. A recent survey showed that Edinburgh is now Europe's most expensive short-break destination. We know Scottish families will choose package holidays overseas, not just because of the guarantee of sunshine, but because these often work out considerably cheaper than staying within our own shores. By imposing a visitor levy, are we not at risk of doing even further damage to an already struggling sector? Perthshire is famous for its trees and scenery, including the Meikleour Beech Hedge, the world's tallest, on the A93 Perth to Blairgowrie road (Picture: Peter Thompson/Heritage Images) |A sensible plan It may be that Edinburgh during the festival period can well sustain a visitor levy without a detrimental impact. But that certainly does not apply to Scotland as a whole. Complaints about 'over-tourism' ring hollow in many parts of Perthshire and Fife that I represent in the Scottish Parliament, where we would be delighted to see greater visitor numbers than we currently have, particularly outwith the hot-spot season of July and August. One self-catering operator I spoke to recently told me he would bite off my hand to have a bit of the 'over-tourism' that is deemed such a problem in places like Edinburgh and Skye. Advertisement Hide Ad Advertisement Hide Ad Last month the Scottish Conservatives, for whom I speak on tourism matters, published a policy paper with four proposals to assist Scotland's tourist sector. Firstly, to ensure there is significant rates' relief for hospitality that's at least as generous as that applied south of the Border. Secondly, changes to the short-term let licensing regime to exclude letting rooms within your own home, remove B&Bs and guest houses from the scope of the rules, and introduce a lighter touch to the regulations as a whole. Thirdly, to change the visitor levy rules so that any sums applied would be a fixed rate rather than a percentage, which would help address the concerns about affordability. And fourthly, a new initiative to promote careers in the hospitality industry, particularly to younger people. Taken together, this is a package of support which has been warmly welcomed by the sector, and would help address many of their concerns. Without this or something similar from the Scottish and UK governments, we are likely to see further job losses in an industry which should be our national flagship.