The Durban July: The good, the bad and the ugly of Africa's grandest gallop

Mail & Guardian

2 days ago

Durban July has become more than just a horse race; it is a mirror of the nation's aspirations, divisions and contradictions.
(Supplied)
Each year on the first Saturday of July, South Africa's most anticipated sporting and social spectacle gallops into the spotlight — a cultural jamboree known simply as the Durban July. Over time, the event has become more than just a horse race; it is a mirror of the nation's aspirations, divisions and contradictions.
At its best, the Durban July is a dazzling display of high fashion, high stakes and high society — a multiracial carnival of couture, culture and class. It injects more than R150 million into the local economy and boosts jobs in fashion, hospitality and entertainment.
Rich history resides at this racetrack: from its past to democratic turf, the Greyville Racecourse, framed by the Warwick Triangle, Block AK and Berea, once stood as a symbol of colonial and apartheid exclusion.
Born under the shadow of Royal Ascot in the 1920s, the racecourse became a bastion of racial segregation by the 1940s.
The city's Indians — many of whom are passionate punters — can today revel in the fact that one of its own, business person Sadha Naidoo, is the chair of Gold Circle Horse Racing and Gambling; he's the chief steward who will present the main race prize to the winning owner and jockey.
Yet beneath the glitz and glamour lies a more complex narrative: one of exclusion, excess and inequality. The juxtaposition is jarring — luxury marquees with people sipping champagne stand a few metres from working-class punters lining the fences. The People's Race, as it's sometimes called, still plays out on unequal terrain.
The July is also where political theatre occasionally steals the show. In 2009, the infamous 'Zuma Whisky Incident' saw a glass of whisky flung at the then-president Jacob Zuma — a moment of silent protest and defiance at a highly choreographed elite gathering. It was a symbolic rupture, revealing how political tensions can spill into supposedly apolitical spaces.
Concerns about safety, exploitation and unruly behaviour persist. From petty theft to gender-based harassment, the dark underbelly of the event often escapes the headlines.
Traffic congestion paralyses Durban's inner-city, while residents complain of noise, gridlock, poor policing and the after-party blasts of music. For many locals, the event is more disruption than delight.
Yet the heart of the July beats far from the parade ring. It begins at dawn in Summerveld, as the elite racehorses undergo their final gallops — sleek, muscled athletes rehearsing for glory in the misty paddocks of KwaZulu-Natal's misty hill country. Then begins their journey, meticulously choreographed, to Greyville Racecourse, where logistics meet legacy.
Greyville comes alive as the equine stars are welcomed into their stables. In the parade ring, amid the swish of silks, jockeys and horses find a fleeting moment of communion. Then comes the grand gallop — a thunderous sprint of colour and courage, speed and spectacle.
The July is also a kaleidoscope of identity: Zulu regalia, Indian couture, township streetwear and European luxury brands all jostle for attention. It's an unofficial runway for the rainbow nation — though some ask whose culture is truly being showcased, and who ultimately profits.
Behind the scenes, deals are struck and alliances forged. Boardroom barons and powerbrokers rub shoulders in VIP lounges, while influencers race to out-dress each other in branded content disguised as lifestyle. Once mainly about horses, the race has been overtaken by a battlefield of brands.
There is also a spectre of race, power and representation: despite its rainbow nation feel, questions persist about ownership and access. Who controls the horse racing industry? Whose culture is being showcased? Who profits?
Hollywoodbets is the third most prominent sponsor on the heels of longstanding underwriters Rothmans, until then health minister Nkosazana Dlamini-Zuma snuffed it out of the sport of kings with the ban on tobacco, and followed by cellular phone giant Vodacom, until the silent grandstands of Covid-19 lockdown scratched it out.
Hollywoodbets, a sportsbook and betting operator became the title sponsor of the Durban July in 2020. Its purple branding now dominates the racecourse and the broader July experience.
Founded in Durban and rooted in the local racing industry, Hollywoodbets has grown from a modest operation into an international gaming giant with interests in sports betting, horse racing, online casino gaming and community development.
'This year's Hollywoodbets Durban July is more than just a race,' said spokesperson Zandile Dlamini.
'It's a full cultural experience. We're thrilled to offer a lineup that celebrates South African music, lifestyle and diversity. Our goal is to create unforgettable moments for all who attend.'
Raceday is a showpiece of alcohol, excess, extravagance and exploitation — often enabled by the blurred lines of luxury and liberty.
Still, the July remains a symbolic stage for the city and the country. Its contradictions mirror our own: dazzling yet divided, aspirational yet uneven. If managed with vision and fairness, it could be a true platform for transformation — not only for racing but for South African society.
Much of the event's sustainability now rests on leadership. Naidoo is widely respected for his strategic vision and transformation efforts. Under his stewardship, Gold Circle has navigated post-Covid problems and adapted to an evolving entertainment and betting landscape.
As millions of rands will be splurged, the biggest buzz surrounds the main race, which features 18 runners, with two reserve horses on standby in case of any late scratching.
This Grade 1 contest will be run over 2 200 metres. The favourite is Eight On Eighteen, currently leading the betting market at 14/10 odds. Drawn at gate 11, the colt will be ridden by champion jockey Richard Fourie and is trained by Justin Snaith.
As Durban catches its breath after another unforgettable edition on Saturday, 5 July, one thing is clear: the Durban July remains a metaphor for South Africa. What we choose to see — glamour or grit, triumph or tension — depends on how close we're willing to look.
Here's a personal tip: don't lose your shirt, don't drink and drive, and catch an Uber home safely.
Marlan Padayachee is a former political, foreign and diplomatic correspondent in the transition from apartheid to democracy and is now a freelance journalist, photographer and researcher.