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21 of the best hotels in Sicily for 2025

21 of the best hotels in Sicily for 2025

Times9 hours ago
If you've been inspired to visit Sicily after watching back-to-back episodes of The White Lotus or Inspector Montalbano, then you'll already know it's a place full of plot twists. Those coming in search of luxury will certainly find it here — in the grande dame, riviera-style resort hotels of Taormina, or the historic palazzos at baroque towns of the southeast like Syracuse, Ragusa, Noto and Modica.
But there's another side to this rugged, volcanic island, too: a timeless world of olive farms, vineyards, traditional villages and hill towns way off the tourist track, where many locals still speak their own dialects and rarely make it out to the glitzy, developed coast. And then there's the Aeolian archipelago, where you can walk on black sand beaches, watch the fireworks from one of Europe's most active volcanoes, and stay at exclusive island havens on Panarea and Salina, frequented by the Italian jet set.
Our favourites include family-friendly stays, rustic retreats, hotels with spas and pools, and those with great food. Here are the best hotels in Sicily.
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££ | Best for playing an eccentric patron of the arts
To stay at Palazzo Previtera is to experience all the atmosphere of a living museum. This newly restored guest house may only have three bedrooms alongside two cottages in the grounds, but the place oozes culture: there's a 12-room museum and library charting over 500 years of Sicilian history, a contemporary art gallery and a thriving programme of acclaimed artist residences. Built in 1649 on the slopes of Mount Etna for the Previtera family, who kickstarted the wine industry in Sicily, you can expect a riot of frescoed ceilings, antique floor tiles and traditional Sicilian furniture mixed with contemporary art. While here, join an embroidery lesson or a Sicilian cookery class, or head to the library for a peep at its 1758 limited edition of Milton's Paradise Lost.
££ | SPA | POOL | Best for masseria living with all the mod cons
This chic boutique eco-hotel in the heart of the Val di Noto is surrounded by vineyards, orchards, orange groves, olive and carob trees and offers an upmarket agriturismo break within easy reach of Noto, one of Sicily's most dramatic baroque towns. A traditional Sicilian manor house with gorgeous internal courtyards and squishy sofas set in mature gardens, its 22 rooms have a cool, restful palette and fabulous views. Dine alfresco at the poolside grill or on the restaurant's open terrace; unwind in the heated infinity pool and spa, enjoy open-air movie nights or grab a bike and explore the spectacular countryside — you won't want to leave.
££ | POOL | Best for baroque views from a boutique bolt hole
Modica looks so ravishing that it could be a film set — a jumble of honey-stone houses tumbling down a steep hillside towards its centrepiece baroque cathedral. Indeed, you may even recognise it from Inspector Montalbano. A complex of renovated cottages, Casa Talia offers a grandstand view, particularly enjoyable in the warm glow of sunset — repayment perhaps for the steep, thigh-taxing hike up from the centre. Each of its rooms and suites has distinct character, from stone floors to patterned-tile walls and bamboo ceilings, and comes with a private balcony or terrace overlooking a sweep of the city. Breakfast is served in a little courtyard garden under a glorious fig tree, and somehow there's even space for an infinity plunge pool.
££ | POOL | Best for stylish solitude and farm-fresh food
On a working olive farm half an hour's drive from Agrigento, Mandranova offers the chance to experience Sicilian agricultural traditions — with a splash of style thrown in. The farmhouse offers 14 rustic, cosy rooms, some of which overlook the olive trees or garden; or for added exclusivity there's a three-bedroom stone cottage in a former mill. Mandranova's olive oil is prized across the island and further afield, and the owners, Giuseppe and Silvia, will happily take you on a tour of the estate, with their dogs in tow — or you can just chill beside the pool. Much of the farm's produce finds its way to the table — the restaurant serves fantastic, home-style Sicilian food with a modern twist. The surrounding area is largely farmland, which means that rates are pretty reasonable and it's fairly quiet. The elegant town of Agrigento, with its famed temples, is an easy day trip, and there are several quiet beaches within driving distance.
£ | Best for an affordable slice of ancient Syracuse
This smart seaside hotel has to be one of the best bargains in otherwise pricey Syracuse — if not in the whole of Sicily. Plonked in a perfect spot on the eastern edge of Ortigia island, you really couldn't ask for a better base from which to explore the old town. The 26 rooms, spread over a pair of shuttered buildings, are furnished simply but comfortably, and it's worth upgrading to one with a balcony and a sea view (although note that this will also mean some street noise from passing scooters, as a road runs between the hotel and the seafront). The terrace is perfect for breakfast, taken with views of the rooftops and a sparkling blue sea.
££ | POOL | Best for picnics and cookery classes on an organic farm
If you're more of a country than coast person, this farmstay between the Gela Plain and Ragusa is the perfect place to get to grips with the fundamentals of Sicilian living, with good food, good wine and good times. It's a working organic farm and offers many activities, including vineyard aperitifs, wine tasting, yoga and cookery classes in which you can knock out fresh pasta, scacce Ragusane (local stuffed buns) and classic cannoli. The rooms and suites are lovely and traditional, framed with solid stone and old beams, and the views over gardens, orchards and vineyards are dreamy. Cool off in the outdoor pool, beside centuries-old citrus trees.
£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for hanging out at the beach bar
This resort hotel enjoys a spectacular setting over a rock that winds down to the sea between the Baia delle Sirene and perennially popular Taormina. The best rooms face the sea and come with generous private terraces — and let's face it, what can be better than falling asleep to the sound of crashing waves? All have cool colour schemes and contemporary decor, and you've also got access to a fabulous pool carved out of a natural terrace on the rocks, an extensive wellness centre, a gym and two restaurants serving Sicilian cuisine with a modern twist. In essence, a relaxing pad for exploring Taormina and its coastline.
Read our full review of Atlantis Bay
£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for swapping culture for the spa
If you're not particularly fussed about baroque towns or medieval ruins and instead crave convenience and comfort, opt for Verdura Resort. It's located in the west of the island and has more facilities and activities than anywhere else, including a colossal spa and two 18-hole golf courses. You'll also find swimming pools, four restaurants, tennis courts and a hammam. The historic coastal town of Sciacca is only a 25-minute drive along the coast.
Read our full review of Verdura Resort
£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for an exclusive stay with a panoramic terrace
Many, many visitors to Sicily pack into the pretty clifftop town of Taormina, but precious few stay at Belmond's Grand Hotel Timeo. This exclusive property has what must be one of the most envied locations anywhere on the island, with timeless views of Mount Etna and the Ionian Sea. The terrace overlooking the Bay of Naxos has welcomed a long list of luminaries, including Audrey Hepburn and Elizabeth Taylor, and often hosts alfresco concerts in the summer, with a cool breeze rising up from the shore below. Sister hotel Belmond Sant'Andrea makes its private beach available to guests at either property.
££ | SPA | POOL | Best for star-gazing, grapes and Greek ruins
Check into this 14-room wine hotel and prepare for a striking view of rolling vineyards that lead to the shores of the Mediterranean. Gorgeous Sicilian meals are served outside when the weather allows, or down at a private beach house by request. Here you're away from any large towns, and the sky at night is often filled with stars. During the day, hiring a car will allow you to explore more of the local area, including the incredible Greek ruins at Selinunte only 20 minutes away.
• Read our full guide to Italy• Discover our full guide to Sicily
££ | POOL | Best for classy cave dwelling
Ragusa Ibla is part of a Unesco world heritage inscription that covers a large and beautiful region of southern Sicily. Consequently, Locanda Don Serafino has plenty of competition nearby, but the hotel, which is partly built into a cave and has a Michelin-starred restaurant on site, still attracts its fair share of guests. Parts of the hotel date back to before the 1693 earthquake that flattened many of the towns in the area, while others eschew traditional stone walls in favour of a more modern design.
££ | Best for a grand palazzo on a great piazza
Part of the V Retreats Group, this pastel-pink palace was built in 1880 and sits in the heart of the city's oldest area, the island of Ortigia: a maze of shady streets, baroque palazzos and ancient remains. Next door on an adjacent piazza is the city's cathedral, constructed in the 7th century on the site of a Greek temple, where you can still see the Doric columns built into the walls. Palazzo Artemide, meanwhile, is an elegant affair made from cool, creamy limestone. Some rooms face onto an interior courtyard, others onto Piazza Minerva or Via Roma, while the restaurant is housed in a handsome vaulted cellar built from distinctive tufa stone.
£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for fine dining in the Aeolian Islands
North from the main island of Sicily, the Tyrrhenian Sea's Aeolian Islands offer big, volcanic rewards for anyone willing to make the extra journey. Most famous of all is Stromboli, one of the most active volcanoes in Europe, but down on the ominous-sounding Vulcano island there's a slice of luxury too. Located at a secluded spot on the outcrop's north coast, this resort has impressive views — on a clear day all the Aeolian Islands can be seen from here. Making the most of this extraordinary panorama is the resort's Michelin-starred Il Cappero restaurant.
££ | POOL | Best for coastal walks to burn off the cannoli
Lying just west of the beautiful coastal town of Cefalu, the Calanica Resort has enviable real estate on Sicily's north shore. Guests are assigned a bungalow facing out to sea, with the sound of the Mediterranean lapping against the sandy beach in the hotel's private bay below. There's ample opportunity to relax in their pool if you prefer, but if you're feeling energetic, Cefalu is a scenic hour's walk along the coast. Anyone worried they've eaten too many Sicilian cannoli can also make the steep but rewarding climb to the top of La Rocca — the imposing crag that overlooks the town.
££ | POOL | Best for mountains, monks and medieval mooching
It's about a half-hour drive from Cefalu, a popular resort town on Sicily's northern coast, to reach this 12th-century abbey, which produces its own organic and biodynamic wines. Rooms all have wine-themed names and are set around a central courtyard, with vineyards rising up the hillside beyond. Exposed beams, wooden furniture and tapestries all create an antique feel, and some look out over the gardens, hills and sea. Fine dining comes with wines to match in restored cellars at La Corte dell'Abate restaurant; while Passioni e Tentazioni is a less formal option serving Sicilian classics. Head into Castelbuono itself to immerse yourself in its medieval streets and castle, then explore the mountains of Madonie Natural Park.
£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for volcanic wines on Etna's slopes
If the congestion of Catania and the unabashed tourism of Taormina are too much for you, then this is the Goldilocks solution found halfway between the two. Built on the foothills of mighty Mount Etna, Monaci delle Terre Nere makes the most of the volcanic terroir, with a 62-acre winery on site. Its dedication to environmentalism goes beyond marketing spiel too — the hotel uses organic, local ingredients, avoids single-use plastics and has even made its pool out of Etna's renewable lava rock.
£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for getting back to nature while getting pampered
There are many vineyards and luxury hotels in Sicily, but none are more tranquil than Pisciotto. The hotel is located on the edge of a nature reserve in a remote southern part of the island, so there's no chance to stroll down Greek and Roman boulevards, but ample opportunity to explore the 100-plus acres of vines and the forest beyond. The rooms lean into the rustic setting, but there are plenty of modern comforts too, including a pool, spa and hammam. Staff here are experts on everything from the birds you can see around the grounds to the bottles of wine you drink with dinner.
££ | SPA | Best for modern art amid the age-old architecture
Much of the eastern Sicilian city of Catania was razed to the ground by a catastrophic earthquake in 1693, but this palazzo was one of the buildings to rise from the rubble, and is a classic of late-baroque style. Today, while the exterior has remained faithful, the artwork indoors has moved with the times. A gigantic flamingo is impossible to ignore as you enter, while paintings and sculptures are dotted throughout the property. Guests can choose between neoclassical rooms or modern art alternatives. At night, head to the rooftop to see the illuminated surrounding buildings, with Mount Etna providing a show-stealing backdrop.
£££ | SPA | POOL | Best for designer digs with the personal touch
A two decades-long labour of love, Dimora delle Balze has been carefully converted from a ruined 19th-century estate into an outstanding modern hotel. Much of its original layout has been preserved, but designers Draga Obradovic and Stefano Guidotti worked magic to create an airy, highly photogenic bolt hole halfway between the popular cities of Noto and Syracuse. It's understandably popular with couples and small wedding parties; each of its 14 beautiful rooms has been inspired by a Sicilian artist.
££ | SPA | POOL | Best for marble, mail and modernism
There are many historical periods on display in Syracuse — such as Greek, Roman and baroque — but the Ortea Palace is an anomaly. This one-time fascist-era post office has, against considerable odds, been converted into an elegant hotel overlooking Porto Piccolo of the island of Ortigia. Italian marble is used throughout, meaning the decor is clean and bright without feeling sterile. Being at the water's edge gives a sense of calm, but the buzz of deeper Ortigia, with its boutiques and bars, is a pleasant stroll to the south.
£ | Best for finding new friends in the big city
Gritty Palermo is often overlooked in favour of quieter and more glamorous destinations along the coast. As though trying to prove that the city can offer tranquillity too, the family-run L'Olivella occupies a 19th-century art nouveau palazzo on a quiet street in the historic centre, close to the Teatro Massimo. Each of its five rooms differs in style (anyone looking for a four-poster bed should request Argento), but the welcoming owner greets all the guests equally and serves the breakfast every morning.
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• Best holiday villas in Sicily• Best tours of Italy
Additional reporting by Louise Roddon, Julie Alpine and Oliver Berry
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Russian tourists flock back to Europe
Russian tourists flock back to Europe

Telegraph

time23 minutes ago

  • Telegraph

Russian tourists flock back to Europe

Russian tourists are returning to Europe in growing numbers, despite the war in Ukraine, with France, Italy and Spain their favoured holiday destinations. The three travel hotspots are all Nato and EU members and have imposed sanctions on Moscow. Hotel stays by Russians in Italy and France surged by more than 19 per cent in the past year, which Ukrainian diplomats branded 'disturbing' and a security risk. But France, which spearheads the 'coalition of the willing' nations supporting Ukraine with Britain, defends keeping borders open to rich Russian tourists, as does Italy. The trend was revealed by Telegraph analysis of data on hotel room stays and rentals on websites such as and Airbnb, and of visas issued to the EU's Schengen free-movement zone. Vsevolod Chentsov, Ukraine's ambassador to the EU, warned that ignoring the returning Russians would be 'short-sighted' and dangerous. He told the Telegraph: 'In the fourth year of Russia's war of aggression against Ukraine, it is extremely surprising to see statistics showing an increase in the number of visas issued to Russian citizens and a growth in tourist traffic from Russia to EU countries. 'We know that Russian society overwhelmingly supports the war. Moreover, it prefers to think that Russia is at war with the West and not with Ukraine, where the Russian army commits war crimes on massive scale.' He added: 'With increasing number of Russia's cyberattacks against EU member states, acts of sabotage and all sort of hybrid activities aimed at undermining European democracies, it is disturbing that Russian citizens can easily enjoy the benefits of travelling to Europe. 'Continuing to ignore this reality is short-sighted. It's a matter of European security.' Fires in warehouses known to be part of logistical supply chains have taken place across Europe, including in Britain, while there have also been reports of sabotaged train tracks. In the past, Russian spies posing as diplomats would be linked to these incidents, but since the 2018 poisoning of the Skripals, Moscow is known to also deploy agents on tourist visas. Stop EU visas for Russians Sir William Browder is an American-born English financier turned anti-Putin activist and campaigner. He urged France, Italy and Spain to stop issuing visas to Russians. 'Unless the Russians can demonstrate in a visa interview that they're opposed to the Putin regime, they shouldn't be allowed to come to Europe,' he said. European capitals have hit the Kremlin with waves of sanctions since Putin launched his illegal invasion in 2022. Both Britain and the EU closed their airspace to Russian airlines, triggering a drop in tourist numbers. There are still dozens of routes to Europe through Turkey, Georgia, Serbia and other countries. In order to get to Rome, for example, a Russian tourist would have to stop over in Turkey or the UAE and switch flights. The additional costs put the trip out of the reach of most ordinary Russians, but those that do make it to Europe also face difficulties because of the sanctions, which means their bank cards don't work. However, Istanbul's Ataturk airport is brimming with currency exchanges where Russians can swap roubles for euros to sustain their visits to Europe. 'There are many Russians who support the war, and particularly the Russians who have money,' Sir William said. 'What we absolutely don't want to do is allow these Russians to enjoy the privileges and resources of Europe, while at the same time they're supporting Putin's war efforts.' 'Europe should be open for people in the Russian opposition who are being persecuted, but no visa should be issued to Russian oligarchs or mini-garchs and others who support Putin, and I think we should err on the side of non visa issuance in that respect.' He said refusing visas would put pressure on Putin's regime and lessen the security risk posed by Russia's hybrid war against the West. Sanctions undermined Sir William said EU governments had to be consistent because if one country grants a Schengen visa, the supposed tourist can travel anywhere in the passport-free zone. Western governments have been reluctant to issue outright travel bans, except in the case of sanctioned individuals such as Putin's cronies and apparatchiks. In contrast, the Baltic nations and pro-Ukraine countries bordering Ukraine and Russia stopped issuing tourist visas to Russia or heavily restricted their numbers. Jan Lipavsky, foreign minister of the Czech Republic, accused those welcoming Russian holidaymakers of undermining the EU's sanctions against Moscow in return for wealthy tourists' cash. He told The Telegraph, 'It is deeply troubling to see some EU countries returning to business as usual with Russian tourists while Ukraine continues to suffer under brutal aggression. 'Czechia has taken a principled stance – we do not process any tourist visa applications and we believe this should be the standard across the European Union.' Mr Lipavsky said the numbers of tourists coming to the EU last year was 'totally excessive' and raised serious concerns 'not only from a security standpoint, but also from a moral one'. He said, 'At such volumes, we cannot rule out the possibility that individuals complicit in war crimes are among those vacationing in our resorts. That is unacceptable.' He added, 'I also see that some countries have a self-interested motive – they want the income from Russian tourism. It's not just about visa fees; it's about money spent on hotels, shopping, tickets and so on. Russians are known to spend a lot. 'This undermines the credibility of our sanctions regime and sends a confusing message about our values.' Lifeline for dissidents Andrei Soldatov is a senior fellow with the Center for European Policy Analysis think tank and a Russian investigative journalist specialising in the activities of the Kremlin's secret services. He said the visas were valuable for dissidents and families that wanted to visit them abroad. He said, 'it is a problem which doesn't have a simple solution. These are also the countries which help people with anti-Kremlin views move out. 'To make it safe for these people one needs to hide their applications in a stream of other applications. One cannot really expect a Russian dissident to come to a foreign embassy for a 'dissident visa', given the high level of repression in the country.' Popular locations Across the EU, visitor numbers are just a tenth of what they were in 2019, before the pandemic and the invasion, but this varies substantially across the bloc. In 2024, just six EU countries saw an increase in guest nights booked by Russians via websites such as Airbnb, according to figures from Eurostat. Italy saw the largest increase of 18.9 per cent, with 321,678 guest nights across the year, the highest in Europe. France remains the third most popular location for Russian tourists with 203,072 guest nights per year, which is an increase of 7.8 per cent - the fourth highest spike in Europe. Spain is second at 259,068 guest nights, down 3.6 per cent from the previous year, according to the figures obtained from the EU's statistics agency. There was a rise of 13 per cent in the number of nights booked by Russians in Hungary, which has a government that is notoriously soft on Putin. The UK, whose data differs slightly from the EU's, would rank seventh on the list for Russia visitors after Italy, Spain, France, Portugal, Greece and Cyprus. Unlike France and Italy, Britain saw its visitor numbers fall by around 1.3 per cent year-on-year, according to data from the Office for National Statistics. Other statistics, which look at nights across hotels rather than Airbnb-style websites, suggest that France is hosting 27 per cent of the level it was in 2019, compared to just 9.8 per cent in the United Kingdom. The UK has always required Russian tourists to apply for visas, including when it was part of the EU. It never joined Schengen. Schengen members also require that Russians obtain visas. There was an agreement, which made it faster and cheaper to obtain those tourist visas to enter the EU but it was suspended after Putin invaded Ukraine. Analysis of Schengen area visas also showed that Italy and France were leading the tourism rapprochement with Russia. Italy issued 152,254 Schengen area visas at its two Russian consulates last year, which was almost 19,000 more than in 2023. France issued a total of 123, 890, according to European Commission figures, 25,000 more than the year before. Spain issued 111,527, an increase of 15,000. Figures first reported by the EU Observer website showed a rebound in Schengen visas for Russians with 552,630 issued in total last year, an increase of nine per cent. Greece issued 59,703 visas and Hungary 23,382. Rome and Paris unrepentant 'Italy continues to regularly issue visas to Russian tourists who meet our requirements,' A spokesman for Antonio Tajani, the Italian minister of foreign affairs and deputy prime minister, said. 'Our opposition is to the Russian army's military operations in Ukraine, not to the Russian people.' The Elysée was presented with the statistics but did not respond to requests for comment. France has previously defended issuing visas to Russians. 'People-to-people relations and cultural ties can play a positive role in fostering mutual understanding and dialogue between populations,' the French foreign affairs ministry told EU Observer. 'We work hard at maintaining a differentiation between the regime responsible for the war and the population, its civil society, and the opposition,' it said. 'It is essential to maintain this window, to enable Russian society to get access to a plurality of reliable sources of information.' The British and Spanish government were asked for comment. The European Commission said they could not comment, despite being given 72 hours notice, because it was summer. Eurostat, the EU's statistics body, has collected data on the number of guest nights spent in 'collaborative economy platforms', which includes sites such as Airbnb and Expedia since 2018. The UK's Office for National Statistics has collected similar data since mid-2023, meaning pre-invasion figures are not available and there might be minor methodological differences between the two bodies. Data on broader hotel stays across Europe have not been updated for the entirety of Europe in 2024.

Welcome to Scorpios, summer's hottest beach hangout
Welcome to Scorpios, summer's hottest beach hangout

Times

time4 hours ago

  • Times

Welcome to Scorpios, summer's hottest beach hangout

Sunday afternoon on the Bodrum coast and Scorpios is purring. Girls in Hunza G bikinis take selfies with their Loewe raffia handbags; a man in Hawaiian print Vilebrequin swim shorts tokes on a slim cigar. Everywhere, buttocks veiled in crocheted kaftans are Pilates-toned and gleaming, and pedicured toes slip in and out of Vuitton sliders. Waiters and waitresses in sandstone linens zigzag nimbly through the crowd carrying plates of ceviche, while a DJ revs up on the decks. In the Aegean Sea beyond, superyachts bob indolently in the breeze. This is not just any bougie beach club — in fact, these coveted sunloungers mark the expansion of a glittering empire. If you've ever worn a Melissa Odabash kaftan, you've probably heard of Scorpios Mykonos, the ur-beach club founded in 2015 by the German hedonists turned hospitality moguls Thomas Heyne and Mario Hertel. It was named after the Mykonos private island where Jackie Onassis used to summer, and the vibes are legendary: small plates and ice-cool spritzes, DJs playing music while guests dance on the soft sands, admire the sorbet-coloured sunset or do some people-watching from behind cat-eye shades (Mick Jagger and Brad Pitt have visited). Scorpios Bodrum is hoping to do the same on this part of the Aegean coast — basically, to reinvent the beach club, again. Even if Heyne — charming and loquacious, looking every inch the hospitality guru with his deep tan and mirrored sunglasses — hates the term. 'Look, basically I don't like the word 'beach club'.' He laughs. This is only, he hastens to add, because he thinks there's much more to Scorpios than that. 'Our main pillars are food, drinks, music.' They run a music label that supports emerging artists and DJs, and a bazaar to sell the work of craftspeople scouted from around the world. 'We are not a simple beach club. We are much more.' He and Hertel spent 20 years working in the nightclub business, initially in Berlin. But the party lifestyle had hollowed them out: they were sick of hangovers that lasted weeks and the thudding monotony of EDM. They suspected some of their clientele might feel the same way. 'We realised that people not only like going out, they also want to do something good for their mind, for their body, for their soul — not coming home needing two weeks' holiday from the holidays.' • Inside Scorpios – the coolest beach club on Mykonos They opened in Mykonos, and shifted the rules of the party. 'We brought it from inside to outside, from a late-night experience to a 'whole day into the early night' experience.' At Scorpios, the night ends at midnight. 'So the next day is your friend.' To press the point, they also threw in a dollop of woo-woo — sound healing, gong baths, ecstatic dance. In Bodrum they're expanding this programme. High on the hill above the bay, Scorpios Bodrum extends into a network of 12 bungalows with infinity pools where guests can stay, a restaurant with a terrace that catches the evening light — and the Ritual Space, an airy stone room lit by skylights set into a high ceiling (imagine if Jacquemus designed a temple). Here, you can do what Heyne calls 'holistic' wellness — ie sound healing and breathwork — as well as 'biohacking' via treatments such as IV drips, or a sauna and cold plunge. Usually I'd rather spontaneously combust than do a gong bath. But when in Bodrum … so I sign up for 'a transformative journey through sound and spirit', which basically involves freestyle dancing (oh God), then lying on the ground trying to 'feel present' while listening to gongs and chanting (oh God). My instructors are lissom, glossy, dressed in the sort of simple clothes that come with unsimple price tags. But 20 minutes into the session I am letting my body move to the music. Really move — sway and stomp and shimmy to the pulsing drumbeats. Around me, people in acid-bright Alo Yoga co-ords find their own groove … I think: after five minutes I close my eyes and lose myself to dance. I have surrendered to the cult of Scorpios. Still, it's a relief to be back on the terrace again sipping a fennel margarita. A few smartphones are pointed at the sunset — 'Every location we scout the first thing is, where's the sunset?' Heyne says — but mostly lenses are trained on the people who are here to see and be seen. He adds there is no such thing as an 'ideal' Scorpios customer: 'Everybody's welcome. Our philosophy is, treat it like everybody's the same. If you have one euro or if you're a billionaire.' • This fashion editor's pick for a chic family holiday? It's Marbs Surveying the crowd, I would say they have overindexed on beautiful people, who — as golden hour settles over the terrace — look like they are shimmering. The number of statement bags on tables indicates a fairly conspicuous level of wealth. Scorpios could be tacky but toes the right line: staff wear Grecian dresses or slouchy smocks; cocktails are complex and dishes involve local ingredients. Nothing arrives with a sparkler sticking out of it; nothing happens behind a velvet rope. 'Beautiful people, really cool people, are attracting all the other people, who are booking the more expensive things,' Heyne says. He insists Scorpios is for families too. 'We want to have families, parents coming with their parents and with their kids.' (Mercifully I see only one during my stay.) Heyne scouted the site when he was on holiday in Bodrum with his own family. On a boat trip he passed by a peninsula, 'and I said, 'Wow, what a location.' I called everybody — 'Hey, do you know who owns this?' ' It remained a mystery, until a year later when a friend called and asked if he was still interested in the site. 'Two weeks later I found myself in the office of the tourist minister of Turkey. I'm talking to him because he is a hotelier and has the peninsula under control.' Luckily for us, they struck a deal. 'It's a top location,' he says. 'I think it's cooking now.' • What to shop for every holiday — from Greece to south Devon He and Hertel won't stop with Bodrum: the next stages in the Scorpios expansion are sites in Tulum, Dubai and Athens, as well as adding villas to Mykonos. All the new Scorpios will have rooms. 'We wanted to give at least a couple of people the chance to have, instead of a 12-hour experience, a 24-hour experience.' I spend a decent part of my 36ish-hour experience drifting between my infinity pool and vast outdoor bath. In Dubai they will have medinas with 'amazing living rooms, sea views … the architecture of it is very much inspired by the movie Dune'. Back in Bodrum and Monday afternoon is definitely 'cooking'. Three girls in black swimwear do a synchronised dive into the deep while a fourth films it on her phone. Every sunlounger and table is occupied. Buggies shuttle people between the bungalows and the sea and back again, while helicopters and PJs crisscross the cloudless sky, drowned out by the sound of the music at the club. • The best luxury resortwear for women More than just your basic beach club, then. 'We went to ChatGPT and said that we are offering this and this and this, and it said you are like a 'luxury hospitality lifestyle brand',' Heyne recounts. Or maybe it's just Scorpios.

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