logo
Winsome, Manchester M1: ‘The new, big, generous beating heart of Manchester hospitality' – restaurant review

Winsome, Manchester M1: ‘The new, big, generous beating heart of Manchester hospitality' – restaurant review

The Guardian25-05-2025
Winsome has been much anticipated on the Manchester food scene, not least because chef Shaun Moffat was pretty much the toast of the town during his time as executive chef at the Edinburgh Castle gastropub in nearby Ancoats. Rather than being attractive in a sweet, innocent way, as the restaurant's name suggests, Moffat's style – or swagger, to be more precise – is elegant but plentiful modern British cooking, featuring a scoop of Fergus Henderson, a nod to Mark Hix, a dash of London's Quality Chop House and a teeny touch of Toby Carvery.
The Guardian's journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more.
Think meaty things, saucy things, big bowls of crunchy roast spuds and exquisite oversized yorkshire puddings. Pork with rhubarb ketchup and freshly baked parker house rolls to drag through warm butter or hollandaise. Asparagus with a dippy egg for starters, or mussels and trotters on toast. Bread-and-butter pudding with brandy custard. You get the gist. This is Cool Britannia wearing a napkin bib with a side portion of rhubarb jelly and custard for pudding.
But Winsome is far from a novelty restaurant. Yes, there are little playful touches here and there – dino egg cups, cow-shaped gravy boats and school dinner puddings – but it's all done in such a sleek, cool and pared-back way. Moffat may be a hugely experienced chef, but this is his first proper bricks-and-mortar venture, working with Owain Williams, who, among many other restaurants, launched Liverpool's rather brilliant Belzan, and Tom Fastiggi, ex head bartender at Manchester's bold, glitzy Schofield's. Winsome has taken over a large, cool, airy space clamped to the side of Whitworth Locke, one of those new-fangled co-working/hotel/gymnasium/cocktail bar/leisure/third spaces populated by bright young things on laptops. What is it exactly? An apparthotel? A cult headquarters? Never mind all that, this restaurant stands fully alone, so let's just concentrate on Winsome.
It is from the outset an attractive and lovable room, with a large open kitchen down one side and blue-aproned staff serving trays of sbagliatos and breakfast martinis laced with Duerr's marmalade. Tables are large and well spaced, and topped with pale tablecloths topped with pale paper, presumably to protect the linen from spills. No such luck with us. Perhaps your family can share a platter of cylindra beetroot in goat's curd without someone leaving a CSI Manchester crime scene smear; mine was not so successful. 'I do apologise,' I told the staff as we gave back the empty plate after a feast of Tewkesbury courgettes in a glut of excellent olive oil that we'd spilled rather dramatically while grabbing our fair share. There's something about Moffat's cooking, however fine and highfalutin it may seem to be, that lends itself to the sheepish dry-cleaning of blouses. A plate of Brixham crab came with celeriac remoulade and a whole heap of mustard cress that weirdly reminded me of growing the stuff back at primary school. Another starter of incredibly rich fried wild mushrooms and shallots on a slick of well-seasoned pease pudding was similarly deeply nostalgic.
For mains, we shared a whole john dory, cooked perfectly and served in a pool of pale green pie shop liquor, and a Creedy Carver assiette of duck featuring rare breast, rendered skin and a jug of rich duck jus. It was a Sunday, so both came with all the Sunday lunch trimmings, which here involve cartoon-esque XL yorkshire puddings, carrot puree, roast parsnips and a thick piece of trencher bread topped with stewed beef shin in ale.
This is confident, clever cooking that stays just the right side of earnest, or at least as earnest as a chef can be when he also serves up a dessert that is essentially a 1980s school sponge pudding with a scoop of milk ice-cream flecked with multicoloured sprinkles, or hundreds and thousands as they will for ever be known in my heart. In a further nod to the sainted Fergus Henderson, right at the end of the meal eccles cakes are offered with slices of St Sunday's cheese from Cumbria.
Winsome may well be my new favourite restaurant, and it's the new, big, generous beating heart of Manchester hospitality. It's classy but come-all – bring your gran, bring your baby, no one need feel conspicuous. There's something about the place that makes me want to use it as a canteen, not least out of sheer curiosity as to what Moffat will put on the menu next. Great cooking, and forward-thinking fine dining without any of the faff. Bring your appetite and don't wear pale colours. Aaah, Manchester, you have so much to answer for. Winsome will seriously impact your waistline.
Winsome 74 Princess Street, Manchester M1 (no phone). Open lunch Thurs-Sun noon-3pm (8pm Sun), dinner Mon-Sat 5-11pm. From about £60 a head for three courses; Sun lunch £35 for two courses, £39 for three, all plus drinks and service
Orange background

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Comments

No comments yet...

Related Articles

Gurnaik Johal: ‘I had no idea Zadie Smith was such a big deal!'
Gurnaik Johal: ‘I had no idea Zadie Smith was such a big deal!'

The Guardian

time35 minutes ago

  • The Guardian

Gurnaik Johal: ‘I had no idea Zadie Smith was such a big deal!'

My earliest reading memory I used to regularly reread my bright green copy of the Guinness Book of Records. I can still clearly picture the woman with the longest fingernails in the world. My favourite book growing up I loved the world-building in Michelle Paver's Wolf Brother series. Its stone age setting was different to anything I knew, but so easy to imagine being a part of. The book that changed me as a teenager I bought NW by Zadie Smith because its cover design was so striking. I had no idea she was such a big deal! Once I finished it, I sought out the books that she recommended. That's how I ended up reading Elizabeth Strout, George Saunders and Gustave Flaubert – which was a very good place to start. The writer who changed my mind I didn't read biographies until I stumbled upon Dana Stevens's book about Buster Keaton, Camera Man. She changed my mind about the genre, and now I can't watch Keaton's films without thinking about scenes from the book. The book that made me want to be a writer Reading short stories at university made me want to become a writer. Extra by Yiyun Li, A Temporary Matter by Jhumpa Lahiri and Recitatif by Toni Morrison stand out as early examples that got me to think differently about reading and writing. The book or author I came back to I didn't get Heart of Darkness at all when I first read it, and was too quick to judge it. Thankfully, I revisited it and now count Joseph Conrad as one of my favourite writers. I love his prose style and the scale of ambition in his novels. The book I reread Teaching courses on the short story allowed me to regularly revisit some favourites. Two stories that never left my syllabus were Pet Milk and Paper Lantern by Stuart Dybek. After dozens of rereads, Dybek's writing always feels new – I get swept along every time. The book I could never read again I listened to Karl Ove Knausgård's My Struggle while training for a marathon. I think if I read it again, it would invoke some kind of Pavlovian response. The book I discovered later in life I have myself to blame for reading Daniel Defoe's Robinson Crusoe later than I should have – it was on my university course but I missed the lecture. Since reading it, I struggle to get on with novels that don't have any oomph to them. To hold my wavering attention, there's got to be a sense of adventure and play either at the level of the plot or the sentence – Robinson Crusoe has both. The book I am currently reading I'm slowly making my way through Larry McMurtry's epic western Lonesome Dove, which is a comedy of manners set on a cattle drive from Texas to Montana. The free indirect style is very Jane Austen and the dialogue very John Wayne. My comfort read I sometimes take Sheila Heti's Alphabetical Diaries on the tube to work. Dipping in and out of it at random is as close as I can get to meditation during rush hour. Saraswati by Gurnaik Johal is published by Serpent's Tail. To support the Guardian order your copy at Delivery charges may apply.

Smoke signals: from Charli xcx's nuptials to The Bear, cigarettes are everywhere
Smoke signals: from Charli xcx's nuptials to The Bear, cigarettes are everywhere

The Guardian

timean hour ago

  • The Guardian

Smoke signals: from Charli xcx's nuptials to The Bear, cigarettes are everywhere

Coffee and chocolates traditionally signal the end of a meal at a wedding. But now many couples are ditching the sweet stuff and doling out cigarettes instead. Bowls and trays piled high with fags have become the new party favour. Last weekend, guests at Charli xcx's nuptials were served Vogue Essence Bleue slim cigarettes from silver trays, and social media is peppered with wedding receptions featuring tiered dessert stands laden with smoking paraphernalia and dedicated 'smoking stations'. It can be an expensive addition to any wedding bill, considering the average cost for a packet of 20 cigarettes is now £14. Many modern brides take their inspiration from Mary-Kate Olsen, the child star turned fashion designer for The Row. In 2015, Olsen doled out mini bowls of cigarettes during her wedding to her now ex-husband Olivier Sarkozy. Emma Westblade, the editor-in-chief of the wedding planning directory the Wed, described the trend as 'a soft rebellion against the polished perfection long associated with weddings, in favour of something more unfiltered and deliberately nostalgic'. She added: 'It's controversial, yes, but it's part of a larger return to vice-coded aesthetics, plucked from the noughties and revived by gen Z for today's weddings.' At the online marketplace 1st Dibs, sales of items with cigarette, lighter, tobacco and cigar in the item title are up 11% this year compared with 2024. Trending items include 1930s cigarette dispensers, art deco cases and porcelain Hermès ashtrays from the 1980s. Getting a nicotine fix is also trending at fashion parties. In September, guests at a party in Paris for Kylie Jenner's clothing brand Khy were greeted by waiters holding silver platters of slim cigarettes and branded matches. At an event to celebrate her collaboration with the denim brand Madewell, Alexa Chung served guests ice cold martinis next to bowls of Camel Blues. And in November, at the launch of Lili Anolik's book Didion & Babitz at Hollywood's Chateau Marmont, cigarettes and lighters branded with the book's title were placed on tables. Last month, the sale of single-use vapes in England was banned. Perhaps traditional cigarettes never really went away, but they now seem to be having a resurgence. In March, research found that smoking rates in parts of England had increased for the first time since 2006. This is despite the fact that smoking is widely known to increase the risk of cancer and 94% of UK adults recognise this. The trend is also reflected in pop culture. Singers Lorde and Addison Rae both mention smoking in their recent singles, and Sabrina Carpenter uses a fork as a cigarette holder in the video for her new song, Manchild. In June, just before France's new smoking ban, Beyoncé lit up a cigarette on stage in Paris during her Cowboy Carter tour. Charli xcx was photographed smoking outside her wedding reception, while Dua Lipa and Paul Mescal are regularly spotted with a fag in hand. On screen, Seema (Sarita Choudhury) smokes everywhere in And Just Like That, including in her bed. Dakota Johnson's character, Lucy, is rarely without a cigarette in her new film The Materialists, and in the latest series of The Bear, even anti-smoker Sydney attempts to light up. Jared Oviatt who runs the Instagram account Cigfluencers described cigarettes as 'kind of like blue jeans. They've survived every trend cycle you can imagine.' Citing generational factors as playing a role in smoking's revival, Oviatt added: 'The dream of stability, owning a home, financial security feels increasingly out of reach. So the question becomes: why not do what you want? Why not smoke? Nothing matters!'

Love Island fans accuse star of 'stirring drama' to get more 'air time' as final approaches
Love Island fans accuse star of 'stirring drama' to get more 'air time' as final approaches

Daily Mail​

time2 hours ago

  • Daily Mail​

Love Island fans accuse star of 'stirring drama' to get more 'air time' as final approaches

Love Island fans have accused Blu of ''stirring drama' to get more 'air time' as the final approaches. The former dumped Islander returned to the villa on Tuesday alongside Megan after being the second contestant to leave the show earlier in the season. During Friday night's episode, the Spanish lad had plenty to say about Toni during the infamous Grafties. As part of the game, a clip was shown of Cach - who Toni had previously split from to pursue things with Harrison - crying on the terrace. After the clip was shown, Blu turned to Toni and said: 'Did you see what you did to Cach?' Toni quickly responded: 'Shut the f* up, talk about situations that you've been here for.' Blu hit back: 'What you on about? I am here now, so I can speak if I want to.' Yasmin then jumped in to defend Toni, saying: 'She was upset about that though, she was crying about that too. She wasn't heartless about it — she was genuinely really upset.' After the game wrapped, Blu pulled Toni for a chat in the outside lounge. 'I don't agree with what you said,' Blu began. 'Like, I have respect for you, but if I have something to say - my opinion - and then you have your opinion, which is completely fine, why are you being hypocritical?' Toni replied: 'I just feel like you're involving yourself with something that has nothing to do with you.' Blue said: 'We're all sat around here, we all live in the same villa. I can have my own opinion - just like you always have your own opinion.' You've been outside watching it,' Toni said. 'Exactly,' Blu fired back before Toni continued: 'You know how I felt. You saw me sit there crying. When I apologised to Cach, was I not up on the terrace bawling my eyes out?' 'I don't agree with what you said,' Blu began. 'Like, I have respect for you, but if I have something to say - my opinion - and then you have your opinion, which is completely fine, why are you being hypocritical?' '"Toni how do you feel?" - you know how I felt. I don't understand what you want.' 'You can make Cach cry and that's fine?' Blu said. Toni responded: 'Did I ever say that it was fine? Blu responded: 'You've just done the same thing.' Toni said: 'I'm not going to lie to you. I literally don't care about this conversation.' Blu dismissed her with: 'Pfft, all right... so I have the right to have my own opinion and voice my own opinion. What are you on about?' 'Go for it. I don't care,' Toni added. Blu then said: 'OK cool, so don't tell me I can't put my two pence in when you're the one always putting your f*ing 50p in.' 'I still don't get what the point here is,' Toni question. Blu replied: 'Are you trying to belittle me or something? I'm pulling you here because I genuinely think you're a nice girl and I'm trying to, like, brush it under the f*ing bridge.' Toni pushed back: 'Then why were you trying to get a reaction out of me? Did you want me to say I'm sorry again?' Blu replied: 'Can I not ask my question? I'm asking a question. So you can ask a question but I can't ask my question?' Toni said: 'But I was involved.' Blu shot back: 'What are you on about? So? I'm involved now and I can ask my question.' At that point, Toni stood up and walked away from the conversation. Blu muttered: 'You walk away when it's convenient for you to walk away - coz you know I'm fing right. Absolute fu**ing weirdo.' Fans were left just as confused by Blu's confrontation with Toni, taking to X to share their bewilderment over his point. They said: 'The most bizzare thing about the Grafties was Blu trying to villainise Toni at any chance he could get. He really thinks he ate with that but in the words of Scott, he looked like a fxcking b*ellend', 'Blu pulled Toni for some airtime and left HEATED, while Toni left confused & not giving a single F', 'Blu's angry because toni's not giving him the argument he wanted, he wants to create drama to stay in the villa #loveisland', 'The way Blu was just trying to get a rise out of Toni was disgusting, when she didn't give him the argument he really wanted, he turned nasty, the man went red #LoveIsland', 'Toni just said 'blu I don't care to give you your 15 minutes of fame' and this is why we love her #loveisland', 'Blu wants a moment so bad he knows being around Toni will get him some more screen time.' NAME: Dejon Noel Williams AGE: 26 FROM: London OCCUPATION: Semi-pro footballer and personal trainer WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Someone who is beautiful on the inside and out, looks after themselves and is healthy CLAIM TO FAME? My dad being an ex-professional footballer. I've met all kinds of famous people through him. When I was younger it was weird because he was just my dad, but we'd go to a game and fans were asking for photos. I've met David Beckham, he was really nice. Megan Moore NAME: Megan Moore AGE: 25 FROM: Southampton OCCUPATION: Payroll specialist WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? I'd like to meet someone who is tall, with a nice tan, nice eyes and a nice smile. He needs to have a good fashion sense and a really good, funny personality that I can get on with HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR LOVE LIFE? Bankrupt, right now. But we're going to make sales and get on that corporate ladder and be booming. Profits, profits, profits! NAME: Helena Ford AGE: 29 FROM: London OCCUPATION: Cabin Crew WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Somebody funny or Northern. I feel like Northern people have much more banter than Southerners. If you look through my previous dating history, you'll see I clearly go for personality. You can pretty much laugh me into bed. WOULD MAYA HIRE YOU FOR YOUR FLIRTING SKILLS? I would say hire but then quickly fire soon after. It would only be a temporary contract. NAME: Shakira Khan AGE: 26 FROM: London OCCUPATION: Construction Project Manager WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Someone who is tall, charming, witty, with big arms, a good smile and just really funny. HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR LOVE LIFE? Booming, but they're all frogs. It's a busy love life but I've not found 'the husband', I'm looking for 'the one'. I'm looking for the ring. NAME: Harry Cooksley AGE: 30 FROM: Guildford OCCUPATION: Gold trader, semi-professional footballer and model WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? The girl next door that makes me laugh and can hold eye contact with me. I don't think I'd go for the most obvious girl, I like a real sweet girl. CLAIM TO FAME? I'm the body double for Declan Rice. So when he does a shoot, any body close ups will actually be me. You'll never see my face, but you'll see my shoulder or chest, that kind of thing. NAME: Conor Phillips AGE: 23 FROM: Limerick OCCUPATION: Professional rugby player WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR?Someone who is really sure of themselves, ambitious, a bit of a go-getter and good craic. I like dark eyes and I don't mind a dominant woman. WOULD MAYA HIRE YOU FOR YOUR FLIRTING SKILLS? Definitely hire. I ask girls if they want to go halves on a baby. It doesn't work, but it gets them laughing. It's an ice-breaker, not a serious question of course! NAME: Toni Laites AGE: 24 FROM: Connecticut OCCUPATION: Las Vegas Pool Cabana Server WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? I'm looking for darker hair, definitely muscular but not too muscular. Super fit. Clean hair cut. Someone that can make me laugh - I'm super outgoing. And someone that's quite active. Maybe one day we could start our own family together. I WANT TO DATE A BRITISH GUY BECAUSE... I've lived in three different states and I'm still single. It's time to try something new! I have some British friends and they're pretty charming. I think all Americans love a good accent. British men are just more polite, with better manners. NAME: Yasmin Pettet AGE: 24 FROM: London OCCUPATION: Commercial Banking Executive WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? I'm looking for a guy who is fit, has a nice body and who is funny with a bit of banter. WHAT'S YOUR BIGGEST ICK? A guy that's stingy NAME: Megan Moore AGE: 24 FROM: Dublin OCCUPATION: Musical theatre performer and energy broker WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Someone who doesn't take themselves too seriously and has a sense of humour. If they're not bad looking, that's always a plus. I love a boy that's a bit pasty, like Timothé e Chalamet. I don't mind scrawny, or a bit of a 'dad bod'. I'm 5ft1 so any height really. CLAIM TO FAME? Me and my friends made a Derry Girls TikTok for Halloween and it went a bit viral around Brighton. Sometimes I get stopped in the street about it. I've also done Panto. NAME: Blu Chegini AGE: 26 FROM: London OCCUPATION: Construction Project Manager WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Someone who is family oriented, has a lot of love to give and a lot of love to receive. Personality goes a long way. WOULD MAYA HIRE YOU FOR YOUR FLIRTING SKILLS? She'd fire me, but I've got the charm to smooth things over with a girl. The fact I speak fluent Spanish comes in handy when it comes to flirting! NAME: Jamie Rhodes AGE: 26 OCCUPATION: Electric Engineer WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Bubbly, cheeky, outgoing, good face card and a nice bum. WHAT KIND OF ISLANDER DO YOU THINK YOU'LL BE? I'll be in amongst the drama! It's a once in a lifetime opportunity, I'm gonna take it by the horns and go for it. NAME: Ty Isherwood AGE: 23 OCCUPATION: Site Engineer WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? I go off energy, if we vibe. I've typically dated brunettes, tanned, nice teeth with a nice smile. WHAT KIND OF ISLANDER DO YOU THINK YOU'LL BE? A head turner! I get along with lads easily and like to make people laugh. NAME: Cacherel 'Cach' Mercer AGE: 24 OCCUPATION: Professional Dancer WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? Someone who's emotionally intelligent, beautiful, charismatic, caring, affectionate, and I'd say an intro extrovert. WHAT KIND OF ISLANDER DO YOU THINK YOU'LL BE? I think I'm gonna get into trouble, I feel like I'll be the joker of the group! I'll also be the person people come to for advice… and a bit of eye candy at the same time. ......................................................................................................................... Angel NAME: Angel Swift AGE: 26 OCCUPATION: Aesthetics Practitioner and Salon Owner WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FOR? I'm ready to make memories with someone, go travelling with them and fall in love WHAT KIND OF ISLANDER DO YOU THINK YOU'LL BE? I feel like people have been getting their heads turned very easily. I do feel like I have quite a good chance of turning someone's head.

DOWNLOAD THE APP

Get Started Now: Download the App

Ready to dive into a world of global content with local flavor? Download Daily8 app today from your preferred app store and start exploring.
app-storeplay-store