Guarding the tribes of Liwa Oasis: A look at the forts that watched over generations

Al Etihad

01-06-2025

1 June 2025 23:47
RAJEEV CHERIAN (LIWA OASIS, AL DHAFRA REGION)Amid the orange-red desert plains and lush palm groves of the Liwa Oasis lies a series of historical forts and towers, keeping a timeless watch, safeguarding the surrounding settlements, and bearing witness to the lives of generations.Situated on the northern edge of the Rub' al Khali - also known as the Empty Quarter, the world's largest uninterrupted desert - about 250km south of Abu Dhabi, Liwa Oasis is the ancestral home of the revered Bani Yas tribe, the principal tribal confederation of Al Dhafra, comprising 20 clans.The region is home to many forts and watchtowers, built by the Bani Yas and Manaseer tribes to safeguard their wells, oasis, livestock and settlements. From these structures, men stood watch over the surrounding landscape. These fortified structures - made of stone, palm trunks and gypsum - also served as a place to store supplies and refuge for people during harsh times.In the 1980s, under the directives of the UAE's Founding Father, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the forts and towers were restored to preserve the rich architectural heritage of the country. Here is a closer look at Liwa Oasis' fortresses - the monuments that embody the heritage and lives of bygone generations.
Al Dhafra Fort Before exploring the historical sites of Liwa, begin your journey at Al Dhafra Fort for an introduction to the region's history, traditions, local communities, and natural environment.Built in 2017, the fort - which also houses a museum - serves as a cultural gateway to Al Dhafra. It offers rich insights into the region's historic forts and watchtowers, while also preserving a wealth of heritage and cultural knowledge. In addition to its exhibits, the site regularly hosts community and cultural events.
Dhafeer Fort According to oral history, Dhafeer Fort was built in 1915 by the Bani Yas tribe during the rule of Sheikh Hamdan bin Zayed bin Khalifa, reads an information board set up by the Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi (DCT) at the site.'Historic routes through the Liwa Crescent passed through the settlement, 'mahadhar', of Dhafeer, which in the 1950s consisted of 12 traditional 'arish' houses made of palm fronds and beams,' it said.Similar to other defensive structures in the region, Dhafeer features a stone watchtower surrounded by a low enclosure wall where animals could be corralled in case of an attack.Fallen into ruins in the 1950s, the building was rebuilt in 1996 using mudbrick to distinguish the new construction from its earlier form.
Al Meel Al Meel Fort was constructed at the site of an earlier fort built to defend the major 'mahadhar' of Sha and its surrounding palm groves. This is one of the important settlements in the eastern part of Liwa crescent inhabited all year round, according to information displayed at the site.According to oral history recorded in 1955, the earlier fort is thought to have been built by the Bani Yas tribe during the reign of Sheikh Mohammed bin Shakhbut bin Dhiyab between 1816 and 1818.The original structure did not survive and it was rebuilt in the present form upon the directives of Sheikh Zayed in the 1980s.
Yabbana This fort marks the easternmost point of the Liwa Crescent. It was constructed to defend the eastern approaches to the important settlements - or 'mahadhar' - of Thrwanniya and Nashshash, along with their palm groves, according to the information board at the site.It is believed that the earlier fort at the site was built around the end of the 19th century. The remains of an earlier enclosure showed the fort was built of stone quarried from the immediate vicinity.The original structure did not survive, but it was rebuilt in the present form at the direction of Sheikh Zayed between 2000 and 2004.Mezaira'a FortInhabited all year round, Mezaira'a was one of the major clusters of settlements with palm groves in the central part of the Liwa Crescent, according to the DCT.As there were no actual remains, the fort was constructed in its present form in recognition of the historic significance of the place at the direction of Sheikh Zayed and with the help of the Liwa Municipality in the 1980s.
Qutuf Watchtower According to oral history, the Qutuf Watchtower was built around 1920 by the Bani Yas tribe. It guarded the southern approaches to the important group of settlements inhabited all year round in the central part of the Liwa Crescent.The original structure featured a round tower built from plastered rubble. It also featured a stoned enclosure for holding camels. The tower and courtyard were rebuilt around 1990.
Al Marya Al Gharbiya Tower Al Marya Al Gharbiya Tower was part of a network of towers guarding settlements in the western part of Liwa, according to the DCT.It was built by a Baluchi mason around 1895-1905 by the order of Sheikh Hamdan bin Zayed, who was the Ruler of Abu Dhabi from 1912 and 1922, as per oral history.The original tower is shown in one of the archival photographs of Liwa taken by British explorer and author Wilfred Thesiger in the late 1940s.It featured a watchtower with two tiers of gun loops for the defenders, reads an inscription at the site.The tower was rebuilt and the current enclosure was added in the mid-1990s.
Hosn Al Dhafra Hosn Al Dhafra or Hosn Al Sirra is located close to Al Dhafra Fort. The site was seasonally inhabited between 14th-15th centuries and 18th-19th centuries, based on archaeological excavations and surveys.'The site is of unique importance as it dates to before the move of the Bani Yas tribes from Al Dhafra to the coast,' reads an inscprition at Al Dhafra Fort.
Umm Hisn Tower Built by the Manaseer tribe between 1883 and 1890, the Umm Hisn Tower served as a defence outpost guarding the western approaches to Liwa. The structure - made of limestone slabs - also features enclosures for animals.
Taraq Watch Tower Believed to be built by the end of 19th century, Taraq Tower is four metres in diametre with a full height of five metres. Taraq Tower is an intact authentic structure, according to the DCT.
Mougab Tower Built during the reign of Sheikh Sultan bin Zayed Al Nahyan (1922-1926), the Mougab Tower guarded Liwa from the west. Fallen into ruins in the 1950s, the tower was restored in 2005.
Among the other notable historical landmarks in Liwa Oasis are the Khannour Fort and Al Hayla Tower.