This J-Beauty Serum Has Completely Transformed My Skin

Elle

16-06-2025

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Just off the western coast of Japan, the Goto Islands have stunningly blue water, tree-covered hills, and a special plant: the camellia flower. Camellias look almost like a mono-colored kaleidoscope, their petals overlapping to create a perfect circle. These flowers aren't just beautiful, they're also functional, which is why Shiseido has whipped them into skin care. Most recently, these camellias are the star ingredient in Shiseido's new Ultimune Power Infusing Serum—which has made me a believer in the idea that flowers can transform your skin.
According to the Japanese skin care brand, the camellia's picturesque environment in the Goto Islands is also what makes them so nourishing. Though these islands are pretty, they also have a semi-harsh climate—they're prone to strong winds and whiplash weather changes. Camellias have adapted, making them resilient. (Hardy plants being used in skin care is nothing new—think about drought-resistant flowers like lavender or calendula.) In the new Ultimune serum, Shiseido used the same fermentation process as Japanese sake makers to boost the camellia's efficacy.
'Through the fermentation, we are able to increase the amino acid volume to 3.4 times higher,' a representative for Shiseido tells ELLE. In your skin, amino acids (the building blocks of proteins, to take you back to biology class) may work to help boost collagen, help repair wounds, and balance your skin's microbiome, according to a 2020 study in Amino Acids in Nutrition and Health.
The serum doesn't just use fermented camellia to bolster skin health—it also utilizes the entire plant, from the petals to the stems. The seed oil and extract promote collagen production and boost moisture, while the leaf and flower extracts tamp down inflammation. The serum also has other actives, like reishi mushroom and iris root, which work to protect the skin barrier.
Using this serum is a truly sensorial experience. First of all, I'm a sucker for anything red (it's kind of my color), so I already knew the bottle would have a place front-and-center on my vanity. The formula feels like it sinks into your skin instantly and leaves you with a dewy glow. I rarely finish serums—I have so many to test that I barely get halfway done with one before I'm onto the next. I used this serum every day for three months, but it still caught me off guard when I found that I was out of it. To me, actually finishing a bottle of anything is a testament to how good it is.
After using the Ultimune Power Infusing Serum consistently, I found that my normally dry skin looked much glowier and plumper, and I even felt like the fine lines and wrinkles on my face looked less pronounced. It mixes well with my routine and never pills under moisturizer, sunscreen, or makeup. In a rare move, I'm planning to open another bottle. It's one of the few products I've tried that has earned a permanent spot in my ever-changing rotation.