In defence of the most hated white wine in the world

Independent

3 days ago

For many years, Australia was the UK's primary wine supplier by volume. That crown has been taken by Italy, but we still remain Australia's largest export market.
I have to confess, I was definitely part of a cohort of drinkers turned off by Aussie chardonnay for years. Call it the Bridget Jones Effect, but the idea of a big, brash, ballsy oak bomb in my glass didn't appeal one jot.
Chardonnay is rather a chameleon of a grape variety, and is easily influenced (and led astray) by oak. On the one hand this means creating wines of complete ethereal pleasure, such as the Burgundian beauties – Puligny-Montrachet, Meursault and friends – where perfectly toasted oak imparts a textural creaminess and elegance that's unparalleled in its pleasure. But at the other extreme, it can often be a cover-up for all sorts of misdemeanours, and the wines feel like you're being industrially dipped in a bath of synthetic vanilla syrup.
And sadly, it's these latter, cheaper wines that have had a lasting impact on our collective chardonnay psyche. I know I definitely have friends who are still in camp ABC: Anything But Chardonnay.
But that has most definitely changed. When asked what country makes the most exciting chardonnay, I always have one answer: Australia (and I'm not talking about Yellow Tail).
Yes, of course France is utterly enchanting and magical for the chardonnay produced in Burgundy, but it so regularly comes with a price tag which is, quite frankly, way too expensive for my wine budget.
West coast America has some seriously great chardys, too, but for the sheer scope in quality, Australia has an abundance of achingly cool winemakers producing some outstanding 'cool' chardonnay. As Amelia Jukes said recently on her showcase of Australian chardonnay in London, these are 'beautifully balanced wines with freshness, elegance, and exquisite class, imbued with complexity, depth, and outstanding ageing potential'.
It's a world away from All Bar One's 'buy two glasses and get the bottle free' on a Friday night. (No judgement if that's your vibe).
There are five key regions to look out for when sourcing great Aussie chardonnay: Yarra Valley, Mornington Peninsula, Margaret River, Adelaide Hills and Tasmania. Each of them come with their own unique and beautiful expressions of the world's most noble white grape variety.
Many producers are eschewing the use of oak altogether, favouring stainless steel tanks or concrete, emphasising chardonnay's ability to be lean and taut. And where oak is used, it might be older wood, which imparts no flavour, but allows the wine to gently oxygenate thanks to the tiny pores in the barrels. And if it's new oak? Well, it's being used so judiciously that it rivals some of France's finest whites.
I really hope you don't need convincing any further. If you're a wine lover, you really should be a chardonnay lover – there's no white grape in the world that rivals its potential for greatness (sorry, riesling). So why not reconnect with your friends from down under with one of these Antipodean delights?
The Society's Exhibition Margaret River Chardonnay, Australia, 2022
Available from The Wine Society, £15.50, 13 per cent ABV
Admittedly, this has aromas of new oak – but it's a gorgeous, generous and textured chardonnay, with slices of fresh pineapple, white peaches and dustings of vanilla spice. It feels rather opulent and effortlessly refined. It's definitely not a fish-bowl of Bridget Jones chardy.
Devil's Corner Chardonnay, Tasmania, Australia, 2023
Available from Tesco, £15.00, 12.5 per cent ABV
It can be hard to find good quality Australian chardonnay in the supermarket, but this is a great effort from Tesco. It leans into notes of nectarines and fresh lime citrus, alongside a soft, creamy and very bright finish. Tasmania is one of Australia's most exciting wine regions for chardonnay, but their pinot noirs and traditional method sparkling are also great, too.
Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula, Australia, 2023
Available from The Sampler, £31.90, 13.5 per cent ABV
It's possible that Kate McIntyre is not only one of the most delightful people in wine, she also makes some of the most beautiful chardonnays I've had the pleasure of tasting. Her parents, Richard and Jill McIntyre, were early pioneers in the Mornington Peninsula, and everything from this estate sings. The estate chardonnay is like tucking into a lemon posset with zests of lemon rind running through it. There's also soft peaches, mouthwatering melon and a hint of lemongrass, too. A beautiful, layered wine with both generosity and mouth-watering acidity.
Yarra Valley Chardonnay, Giant Steps, Australia, 2023
Available from Vinum, £32.60, 12.8 per cent ABV
A glorious wine to convince any cynic that believes Aussie chardonnay is big and flouncy. This is lean and taut with crunchy, golden apples, slices of lemon, delicate orange blossom and fresh ginger. Giant Steps is an outstanding producer, and it's worth stepping it up and seeking out their single-vineyard sites too. It's the sort of value you dream of finding in Burgundy, but seldom do.
This perfectly poised, delicate, light-bodied wine is a masterclass in judicious use of oak. Enticing aromas and flavours of fresh green apple, early summer apricots, drops of lime juice on a salt-rimmed glass and the most elegant hint of vanilla.