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The Taste Of Climate In Every Sip: Champagne Problems
The Taste Of Climate In Every Sip: Champagne Problems

Forbes

time2 days ago

  • Business
  • Forbes

The Taste Of Climate In Every Sip: Champagne Problems

Green-skinned Chardonnay grapes are pictured in the vineyard of the Champagne house Pommery-Vranken ... More during grape harvest in Reims. (Photo by FRANCOIS NASCIMBENI/AFP via Getty Images) Heavy monsoon rains in Hyderabad, Sindh province on July 20, 2025. (Photo by Akram SHAHID / AFP via ... More Getty Images) The most intense growing months of many of the world's vineyards are upon us. With harvests a few short weeks away, growers and winemakers are guiding their crops through the delicate and sometimes torturous dance of rain and sunlight, baking hot days and hoped-for cool dewy nights. This, even as raging floods, fires, hail storms, and searing droughts threaten and strike with greater frequency. The state of rising global temperatures and how nations should be held to account for acute and deadly climate disruptions is at the heart of a new report from the International Court of those businesses vying for a place at the tables of consumers around the world, it is a battle fought on the soil, well before it is fought in the marketplace. Drinks giant Moët Hennessy is confronting the struggle globally. And one of its most deliberate transitions to twenty-first century climate sensitive farming strategies is well underway in its Champagne business, whose vineyards are less than an hour's train away from the company's home offices. Weather vs Cultivation: Who's Winning? Sandrine Sommer, Moët Hennessy, Chief Sustainability Officer. Sandrine Sommer is the company's chief sustainability officer. 'We are already facing the necessity of adapting to climate change in every vineyard we manage,' she told me in Paris recently. 'Experiencing a range of extreme weather events – from droughts and floods to wildfires, hail, and frost – we are not spared from these challenges anywhere in the world. Earlier harvests are increasingly common, yield loss is more frequent, and we observe changes in grape acidity and sugar levels.' At Columbia University's Lamont- Doherty Earth Observatory, climate scientist Benjamin Cook sees grape cultivation, in general, as one of the best documented examples of the inextricable connection between climate, terroir and flavor. He co-authored a 2020 paper on the topic in a National Academy of Sciences peer-reviewed journal. The study articulates a now widely held belief that diversification in the strains of grapes that vineyards cultivate will be decisive as the planet continues to change. The Monoculture Of Champagne Vineyards Viticulturists agree monoculture aggravates climate and ecological distress. You only need to recall the 'Dust Bowl' years when 'king cotton' helped plunge the United States into years of agricultural and economic chaos. Given the history, the rolling hillsides of France's Champagne region, though tidy and harmonious, are this side of shocking to today's newest generation of soil guardians and sustainability. 'You look and it's a sea of wine grapes and there's nothing else. There's no biodiversity,' observed Caine Thompson, head of sustainability for O'Neill Vintner & Distillers, and managing director of Robert Hall Winery in Paso Robles, California. TOPSHOT - Grape pickers work at a vineyard of the Champagne region during a harvest, in Hautvillers, ... More on September 19, 2024. (Photo by FRANCOIS NASCIMBENI / AFP) A champion of regenerative agricultural practices and a leader for the movement in his own region of California, Thompson travelled to Champagne recently to study the efforts of MH Champagne makers to reintroduce environmental balance. He says he's encouraged by what he calls a 'poly-cultural' movement afoot at the Ruinart Champagne House in Reims. 'They're practicing agro-forestry, incorporating native plant species back into the vineyards. It was amazing to see the recently introduced native grasses, oaks, fruit trees, and more.' Rounding out the environment with growth that is more natural makes an eco-system more abundant with life of all kinds, above, below, and within the soil, and as a result more resilient. Competitors are elbow to elbow in the Champagne region, among them Laurent-Perrier, Taittinger, Perrier-Jouët, Mumm, Louis Roederer, and more. This appellation is the birthplace of Moët & Chandon, Veuve Clicquot, Krug, Dom Pérignon, and Ruinart, the oldest established Champagne house, whose chalk cellars are part of the region's UNESCO World Heritage Site. Ruinart will mark its 300th anniversary in 2029. Ruinart Champagne and Cheese. (Photo by Jose R. Aguirre/Cover/Getty Images) The evidence of both care in the fields and the impact of climate is in the bottle, Ruinart winemaker Diane de Chevron Villette explained as she walked me through tastes of a couple of different vintages there. The product is held to very strict standards. To carry the unique title of 'champagne,' the specifications of the Champagne appellation do not permit the irrigation of vines. This is based on the realities of the unique terroir. Champagne is located in the north, which ordinarily provides sufficient rainfall throughout the year, although climate change is now presenting challenging conditions. As an offset, the composition of the region's soil helps: the ancient chalky soil of the region both retains and releases water efficiently. Still, as a result of ever-changing conditions, the winemaker says, every year produces a unique product, reflecting the variability of rain and sunshine in any given year. In 2023, Ruinart launched Blanc Singulier. This champagne, says Sommer, 'showcases the effects of climate change on Ruinart's 'Blanc de Blancs' Champagne.' URVILLE, FRANCE - OCTOBER 2: A road sign indicates the Champagne Tourist Route and that the village ... More is part of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) (Photo by) The competition is intense among the big Champagne houses and volume sales since the pandemic ended have been off in general. Adrien Franceschi, MH global corporate projects manager, says changes in alcohol consumption habits appear to have something to do with it. 'Champagne shipments reached 271 million bottles in 2024, marking a 9.2% decline compared to 2023. Overall, industry data shows that, in the first half of 2024, global sales of all alcoholic drinks fell by 11% year-over-year.' The picture does appear to be brightening somewhat for champagne, according to drinks newsletter Shanken News Daily. The industry publication is reporting that U.S. wine and spirits wholesaler data shows champagne sales up, in general, for the first time in three years for the first half of 2025, across the industry. Although it's not clear if this means a renewed enthusiasm for the product or accelerated buying to hedge potential tariffs and higher prices. Do Consumers Care? At the end of the day, consumer expectations and preferences shape the marketplace, and at Moët Hennessy, Sommer believes that is trending in a positive way for the environment. 'Consumers worldwide are increasingly conscious and curious about the origins and manufacturing processes of products, including wines and spirits. They are aware that our products are crafted from specific terroirs, using unique savoir-faire.' In 2022, despite the acute travel limitations of the Covid pandemic, scientists, industry representatives and journalists travelled hundreds of miles for the 'World Living Soils Forum' in Provence, organized and led by Moët Hennessy. The forum focused a hot light on the regenerative agriculture movement, inspiring new conversations and deep thinking about the future of the world's soils and new practices of French Moet & Chandon champagne are displayed for sale at a Costco Wholesale warehouse in ... More Hawthorne, California, (Photo by PATRICK T. FALLON/AFP via Getty Images) Ultimately, every bottle of champagne, every sip of wine, every glass of spirits holds someone's work of art and, like all art, the verdict is the prerogative of the consumer. 'While we may lack comprehensive global data on consumer expectations regarding regenerative practices,' says Sommer, 'we believe it is important, and our responsibility, to educate and raise awareness about living soils.'

Anthony Gismondi: B.C.'s stellar Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays creating fierce competition
Anthony Gismondi: B.C.'s stellar Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays creating fierce competition

Vancouver Sun

time2 days ago

  • Business
  • Vancouver Sun

Anthony Gismondi: B.C.'s stellar Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays creating fierce competition

Pinot Noir and Chardonnay dominate this week's announced results of the 2025 WineAlign National Wine Awards. Both grapes have gained traction nationwide in the past decade, particularly in B.C. Both categories involved more than 100 entries, making the competition fierce. Numerous B.C. sub-GIs contribute to our growing collection of top-flight Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays from the Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island to Okanagan Falls, the Naramata Bench, Summerland, East and West Kelowna, and further north into Lake Country. Each of the sub-regions is distinct from the other, and it appears that the competition and quality are intensifying among producers. The Quails' Gate 2022 Rosemary's Block Chardonnay, priced at $69, is a top-notch, all-around Chardonnay that delivers a sophisticated, cool-climate version of the powerful grape. Other platinum medals right on its heels are the flagship Mission Hill Family Estate 2022 Perpetua $77, the dependable and affordable Meyer 2022 Chardonnay McLean Creek Road Vineyard $33 and the up-and-coming subtle 1 Mill Road 2023 Chardonnay $48. Discover the best of B.C.'s recipes, restaurants and wine. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of West Coast Table will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. There were nine B.C. gold medals: • Mission Hill Family Estate 2023 Terroir Chardonnay $59 • SpearHead 2022 Chardonnay Clone 95 41.50 • Unsworth Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay $39 • Tantalus Vineyards 2022 Chardonnay Reserve $56.50 • Unsworth Vineyards 2023 Chardonnay $38 • Meyer 2022 Micro Cuvee Chardonnay • Old Main Road Vineyard $61 • JoieFarm 2022 En Famille Chardonnay $77 • Mission Hill Family Estate 2023 Perpetua $77 • Tightrope 2022 Chardonnay $30 (the best value) Five Pinot Noirs earned platinum medals, led by the enticing Meyer 2022 Old Block Pinot Noir from McLean Creek Road Vineyard, priced at $48. The other platinums included a SpearHead 2022 Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir $42.50, 1 Mill Road 2022 Pinot Noir Home Block $65, Lightning Rock Winery 2022 Pinot Noir Canyonview Vineyard $42, SpearHead 2022 Pommard Clone Pinot Noir $52.50, and a delicious Moraine Winery 2022 Estate Pinot Noir Sophia Vineyard $37. Nine B.C. Pinots took home gold medals including: • Red Rooster 2022 Pinot Noir $27.50 • SpearHead 2022 Club Consensus Pinot Noir $41.40 • CedarCreek 2022 Aspect Collection Pinot Noir $92 • Laughing Stock 2022 Pinot Noir $40 • Little Engine 2021 Gold Pinot Noir $78.20 • Meyer 2022 B Field Blend McLean Creek Road Vineyard $31.40 • Quails' Gate Winery 2022 Richard's Block Pinot Noir $79 • Tantalus Vineyards 2022 Reserve Pinot Noir $75 • Stag's Hollow 2022 Pinot Noir Shuttleworth Creek Vineyard $40 The best part about these lists is that each wine has been tasted blind, at least twice by as many as seven to 12 judges. At the gold and high silver levels, the wines have been tasted, again blind, against each other, providing a result that is impossible to duplicate by any winery, distributor, or wine critic on their own. The awards were designed for wineries to benchmark themselves against their peers; for the judges to get a real-time snapshot of the state of Canadian wine, and best of all, for you, the consumer, who gets free access to the results, so you can further explore some of Canada's best wines and decide for yourself what you like. Good hunting. Roche Artist Series Pinot Gris 2024, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley, Oregon $27 I 90/100 UPC: 724901648870 Penelope and Dylan Roche are terroir-ists, and so I'm not surprised that The Collaboration Pinot Gris is a well-made, delicious white wine. It is farmed in the Dundee Hills of the Willamette Valley, Oregon, and produced in Naramata. This stainless-fermented wine opens with a bright, orchard fruit attack, a creamy mineral undercurrent, and a juicy finish. One of the best replacement gris I have tasted in 2024. Villota Selvanevada Rioja Alevesa Bianco 2021, Rioja Alavesa, Rioja, Spain $33.99 I 93/100 UPC: 8437020927147 This Rioja Blanco is a magical blend of 85 per cent Viura, 11 per cent White Garnacha, 2 per cent Malvasia, and 2 per cent White Tempranillo. The pale gold colour is accompanied by an expressive nose of tropical fruit, including pineapple and lemon, with underlying floral notes, spice, and vanilla. It spends six months in French oak aging on its lees, creating a creamy, rich textured palate that hums with minerality, dried apricots, and hazelnuts. Honestly, this is so delicious that it doesn't need any accompaniment. However, in Spain, it's customary to pair it with roasted chicken or pork, cured Spanish ham, herbaceous soups, or rice dishes like paella, made with saffron. Tantalus Rosé Looney Vineyard 2024, Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley, Oregon $23.50 I 91/100 UPC: 696852162333 The 2024 Tantalus replacement Rosé is from Looney Vineyard in Oregon's Ribbon Ridge AVA, a site with which winemaker David Paterson has prior experience from an earlier internship. Exhibiting a Bellini pink hue, this elegant, saline Rosé embodies the distinct character of Tantalus, featuring wild strawberry, raspberry, and subtle savoury undertones that dissolve into a lingering minerality. After whole-bunch pressing and overnight transport, the free-run juice was fermented dry in stainless steel. At the same time, the harder pressings underwent fermentation in seasoned Pinot Noir barriques to dryness at Tantalus, enhancing texture. The result is a pure, fruit-driven, dry Rosé of exceptional quality, as you might expect from Tantalus. Coq Léon 2023, Vin de France, France $19.99 I 89/100 UPC: 3493399331812 Coq Léon is a wine by Dominique Piron, designed for enjoyment and drinking. The 95/5 mix is a blend of Gamay from Beaujolais and Beaujolais Villages, combined with Gamaret, a little-known variety created in the 1990s by crossing Gamay with Reichensteiner. The grape was never authorized for use in Beaujolais, so it is sold as Vin de France, but do not let that deter you. It is a juicy, fresh, fruity, soft, delicious summer red that you can serve at cellar temperature or with a slight chill from the refrigerator. Slightly richer and darker than classic Beaujolais, it is further refreshed by a concrete fermentation. Oh, and the price is a giveaway. D. Piron La Chanaise Morgon 2022, Morgon, Beaujolais Villages, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France $28.99 I 91/100 UPC: 3493399011615 Dominique Piron's family history spans over four centuries of winegrowing in Beaujolais, specifically in the hamlet of Morgon, dating back to 1590. His sloping vineyards sit atop fragmented granite and schist, which provide the structure and minerality necessary for the wines to express their origin fully. Morgon wines age well, and this 2022, an excellent year, will be no exception — beautiful fruit, pure freshness with terrific acidity and some tannin will aid its age-ability. You can drink it now, but if you can wait, you will be rewarded. Great value here, what is a gastronomique wine? Vancouver's South Granville neighbourhood will host a new summer event focused on wine and local culture. On Saturday, Aug. 16, the South Granville Business Improvement Association will present the inaugural GranVino Wine Walk, a walkable wine-tasting event located in the retail and gallery district. Attendees can visit over 20 locations, including art galleries, fashion boutiques, concept stores, and restaurants, where they can sample products from B.C. wineries, distilleries, and cideries. The event will also feature live music and in-store experiences. The event is scheduled from 11 a.m.- 7p .m. Tickets are $75 and can be purchased on Eventbrite by searching for GranVino Wine Walk. And now for something different. Township 7 (Naramata) is hosting a fried chicken and sparkling wine event with the Law of Attraction Food Truck. For $20, guests receive three fried chicken bites paired with sparkling wines from the Seven Stars collection. Additional chicken platters are available. The event takes place on Tuesday, Aug. 19, and Tuesday, Sept. 16, from 1-4 p.m. at Township 7 on the Naramata Bench; tickets allow arrival at any time during this window. Reserve at Lunessence Viognier 2022, Okanagan Valley $26.99 I 90/100 UPC: 793588412999 Lunessence opens with vibrant tropical fruit, accompanied by a fresh, deep, and juicy undercurrent, which I love in my Viognier. Expect a rush of exotic honey, peaches, and fresh apricots, all woven into an intense citrus, candied Meyer lemon palate, with a creamy texture and a long, ripe aftertaste. The property is farmed in a sensitive and sustainable manner. One-third of the wine is barrel-fermented in neutral French oak, adding texture and weight with a light touch. Quinta da Calcada Lago Cerqueira Rose Vinho Verde N/V, Portugal $14.99 I Score 87/100 UPC: 5600230679189 Quinta da Calçada has been producing wines since 1917. António Lago Cerqueira, a republican, winemaker, diplomat, and founder, established the Quinta da Calçada wine cellars in 1917. It farms over 50 hectares of vineyards sustainably and is committed to wellness. Their Rosé wine, with light strawberry and melon aromas and flavours, is naturally low in alcohol at 10 per cent and is only 80 calories per 5-ounce glass. It is sold in a lightweight bottle for $14.99 and is available in over 100 B.C. liquor stores. Interestingly, it is represented and distributed by a small agency, so purchasing this wine supports people who continue to visit properties and collaborate with growers dedicated to producing high-quality wines worldwide, providing a modicum of interest in the growing and commercially laden shelves of the monopoly. Stock up for the rest of summer.

The World's Best Chardonnay According To The 2025 Decanter World Wine
The World's Best Chardonnay According To The 2025 Decanter World Wine

Forbes

time2 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

The World's Best Chardonnay According To The 2025 Decanter World Wine

Two glasses of Chardonnay wine with cheese getty Ten Chardonnay still wines took top honors at the 2025 Decanter World Wine Awards. Two wines were awarded Best in Show, and eight received Platinum Medals. All ten wines received a score of 97/100 points. The DWWA is the largest wine competition globally and is considered one of the most prestigious in the world. Over 18,000 wines were entered in the recently completed 2025 judging. Here is a brief overview and tasting note for each of these wines. The indicated prices are the US average per A leading Domaine in Chablis, Jean‑Marc Brocard farms organically on Grand Cru slopes. The Bougros cuvée is produced from Chablis' classic, chalky, limestone-rich soils and is aged without oak, emphasizing purity and minerality. The wine features aromas of white flowers, crisp green apple, lemon zest, and Chablis' trademark wet stone and flinty minerality. It's taut and focused on the palate, with pronounced acidity that showcases flavors of citrus, orchard fruit notes of apple, a hint of pear, and a distinct mineral note reminiscent of gun flint. The finish is long and tight with lingering notes of lemon and a tangy, wet stone minerality. Founded in 1985 near McLaren Vale, Wirra Wirra's high-altitude 12th Man cuvée is fermented in French oak with lees stirring. Named in tribute to their cricket-loving founder, it marries fruit purity with textured winemaking. The wine features aromas of peach, nectarine, lemon curd, cedar, and seasoned oak. It's creamy, citrus-forward, and smooth on the palate, with a brisk acidity and showcasing flavors of grapefruit, assorted stone fruits, and a chalky minerality. The finish is long and elegant, with lingering notes of citrus and stone fruit, and a hint of salinity. France, Bourgogne-Franche-Comte, Burgundy, Cote-d'Or. Golden vineyards in Autumn, Chablis getty Chardonnay Wine Platinum Medal Winners Bemberg Estate Wines, La Linterna 'El Tomillo' 2023 Estate Chardonnay, Gualtallary, Mendoza, Argentina, 13.5% ABV, 750 ml. $100 Family-owned Bemberg Estate specializes in single-plot winemaking from high-elevation vineyards. Planted in 1998, the El Tomillo parcel features sandy-calcareous soils and yields vibrant, terroir-driven Chardonnay. The wine features aromas of citrus blossoms and white flowers, hints of tropical fruit, and a subtle saline/savory note. It's bright and creamy on the palate, with pronounced acidity that showcases tangy lemon and lime notes, as well as the layered complexity that comes from extended aging on the lees. The finish is long, focused, and chalky with lingering notes of crisp fruit and a taut minerality. Brokenwood, 2023 Indigo Vineyard Chardonnay, Beechworth, Victoria, Australia, 13% ABV, $40. Brokenwood, an esteemed Hunter Valley winery in New South Wales, crafts cool-climate Chardonnay from the Indigo vineyard in historic Beechworth. The wine features complexity and elegance and is widely considered among Australia's top Chardonnay wines. The wine features aromas of peach, nectarine, almond nougat, and crushed wet stone. It's fruity and creamy on the palate, with brisk acidity that showcases flavors of orchard and stone fruit, lemon pith, and light oak spices. The finish is long and tangy with lingering notes of fruit and a slight mineral salinity. Deep Woods Estate, 2023 Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River, Western Australia, 13% ABV, 750 ml. $35 Deep Woods Estate is a benchmark winery in the Margaret River region. It produces its flagship 'Reserve' cuvée from gravelly loam soils and matures it in French oak casks. The wine features flavors of citrus, white peach, toasted almond, and French oak spices. It's creamy on the palate, with brisk acidity and a layered complexity that showcases stone fruit, freshly baked brioche, cedar, and seasoned oak. The finish is long and minerally, with lingering fruity notes and a savory, chalky element. Domaine Prieur‑Brunet, 2022, La Maladière, Santenay 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 13% ABV, 750 ml. $60 Prieur Brunet has revived the historic Santenay Domaine. The La Maladière vineyard sits on the slopes of clay-limestone soils. The wine undergoes a period of oak aging to balance its structure and elegance. The wine features aromas of ripe pear, honey, baking spices, and roasted nuts. It's rich and medium-bodied on the palate, with brisk acidity and a discernible, yet well-integrated, tannic backbone, showcasing flavors of apple, pear, lemon, and a minerally earthiness. The finish is long and chalky with lingering notes of toasted nuts and orchard fruit. Château De La Crée, Les Gravières, 2022, Santenay 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 13% ABV, 750 ml. $55 The Château produces precise, terroir-driven Chardonnay wine on soils of gravel and Garnier limestone. The wine features subtle floral notes along with aromas of citrus, melon, and toasted almond. It's fresh and crisp on the palate, with brisk acidity, showcasing orchard fruits, newly baked brioche, and a subtle yet persistent wet stone minerality. The finish is long and tangy, with lingering notes of orchard fruits and a saline minerality. Chardonnay grapes in Burgundy, Cote de Beaune, France getty Boyer Martenot, Perrières, 2022, Meursault 1er Cru, Burgundy, France, 13% ABV, 750 ml. $80 Boyer-Martenot is a small family-owned Domaine in Meursault, specializing in lean, mineral Chardonnay from classic 1er Cru Perrières soils. Perrières' is a name often seen in Burgundy vineyards, signifying stony soils that are rich in limestone. The wine features aromas of hazelnut, citrus oil, honeycomb, and a persistent wet stone minerality. It's medium-bodied and flinty on the palate, with a brisk acidity, showcasing flavors of lemon curd, almond, and seasoned French oak. The finish is long, layered, and elegant, with lingering notes of toasted nuts, a chalky/wet stone minerality, and a slight saline note. Cantina Kurtatsch, 2022 Freienfeld Chardonnay Riserva, Alto Adige/Südtirol, Italy, 13% ABV, 750 ml. $30 Cantina Kurtatsch is an alpine winery in northern Italy's Dolomites, producing refined, terroir-driven Chardonnay wines. The Freienfeld Riserva is a vineyard-designated wine, aged in traditional, large, 1,000-to-5,000-liter, oak 'botte' and stainless steel. The wine exhibits floral notes reminiscent of white flowers, accompanied by aromas of apple, pear, and almond. It's lean on the palate, with a crisp acidity, showcasing flavors of orchard fruit, almond praline, and subtle spices. The finish is long and refreshing, with a touch of sweetness, toasted nuts, and a slight minerality. Cupere, 2022, Faces, Sonoma Coast, California, USA, 14% ABV, 750 ml. $45. Cupere is a Sonoma Coast project by 2nd-gen vintners. It blends cool-climate grapes and barrel fermentation for "Faces," a layered, complex Chardonnay. Faces was the highest-rated American Chardonnay at the 2025 Decanter World Wine Awards. The wine features aromas of ripe pear, Meyer lemon, sourdough toast, and vanilla. It's rich and creamy on the palate, with a brisk acidity, showcasing flavors of lemon curd, almond citrus, orchard fruits, and a 'leesy', slightly lactic texture. The finish is long and silky, with lingering notes of citrus and oak spice. This elite group of award-winning Chardonnays reflects the breadth of global excellence in winemaking—from Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy to high-elevation sites in Argentina, as well as iconic Australian and Californian terroirs. With prices ranging from $25 to $100, they offer a balance of luxury and accessibility. Whether you prefer lean minerality or creamy richness, these wines offer a world-class tour of what Chardonnay can achieve in the hands of dedicated growers and winemakers. More From Forbes Forbes Why You Should Try Argentina's World-Class Chardonnay Wine By Joseph V Micallef Forbes Finesse And Terroir: Oregon's Sparkling Wines Shine At Method Oregon By Joseph V Micallef Forbes The Top Chardonnay, According To The 2024 San Francisco International Wine Competition By Joseph V Micallef

Finesse And Terroir: Oregon's Sparkling Wines Shine At Method Oregon
Finesse And Terroir: Oregon's Sparkling Wines Shine At Method Oregon

Forbes

time4 days ago

  • Entertainment
  • Forbes

Finesse And Terroir: Oregon's Sparkling Wines Shine At Method Oregon

Some of the sparkling wines being featured at the Method Oregon Grand Tasting Photo, courtesy Method Oregon/Sarah Murdoch Oregon's reputation for world-class Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has naturally evolved into one of the country's most exciting sparkling wine movements. While its annual output of roughly 150,000 cases is modest compared to California's, Oregon now ranks third nationally in sparkling wine production—and first in many quality-focused circles: cool-climate viticulture, marine-influenced terroirs, and a commitment to traditional méthode champenoise drive sparkling winemaking here. The result is a diverse array of wines that combine finesse, intensity, and remarkable site expression. On Saturday, July 26, 2025, the Method Oregon Grand Tasting will showcase the depth and breadth of this category in what promises to be the largest sparkling wine event ever held in the Willamette Valley. Below are tasting notes on a selection of some of Oregon's top sparkling wines featured at the event. A young brand launched in 2017, Corollary shifted its focus from cider to terroir-driven, traditional-method sparkling wines. It's produced in the Van Duzer Corridor from soils consisting of marine sediments over volcanic silt loam and cooled by marine winds. The wine exhibits a delicate mousse featuring citrus-lime zest, layered with brioche, pear, and subtle minerality. The bead is tight with a refined texture and a crisp, lingering finish. Score 96/100 Pashey Blanc de Blancs, Extra Brut, Ribbon Ridge Estate, 12.7% ABV, 750 ml. Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley. $65 Created in 2013 by artist and founder James Frey of Trisaetum, Pashey produces Burgundian-style sparkling wines, characterized by a well-defined mousse and precise bubbles. This Blanc de Blancs is considered the winery's flagship. The wine features a towering mousse expressing aromas of marzipan, apricot, Meyer lemon, and Granny Smith apple. The palate exhibits a crisp minerality, with a saline note, fine acidity, and a long, crisp finish. Score 95/100 Argyle Extended Tirage 2014 Brut, 12.5% ABV, 750 ml. Dundee Hills and Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley. $80 Argyle is Oregon's largest sparkling wine producer. This bottling is part of its Extended Tirage series and has been aged for 10 years or more on lees. It's a blend of 65% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, and 15% Pinot Meunier. Vineyard soils are a combination of Jory, Nekia, and Ritner, all derived from decomposed volcanic basalts. The wine has an ultra-fine creamy mousse, featuring aromas of yeasty brioche, stone fruit, and apple. The palate showcases bright acidity, saline minerality, and an impeccably integrated structure. Score: 94/100 Domaine Willamette 2021 Brut Rosé, 12.1% ABV, 750 ml, Willamette Valley. $80 Domaine Willamette specializes in estate-grown sparkling wines crafted from grapes sourced throughout the Willamette Valley. The rosé is part of their méthode traditionnelle portfolio, produced from the Woodburn series soils, characterized by deep, well-drained, and nutrient-rich loam. The wine features classic fine bubbles with notes of honeycomb, puff pastry, and apple. The palate exhibits flavors of pear, green mango, and candied lemon, with a bright, round structure, crisp acidity, and a long, graceful finish. Score: 90/100 A selection of sparkling wine from Pashey, one of the producers being featured at Method Oregon Photo, courtesy Pashey/Sarah Murdoch Lundeen 2015 Extra Brut Late Disgorged, Bunker Hill Vineyard Blanc de Blancs, 12.3% ABV, 750 ml., Salem Hills, Bunker Hill Vineyard, Willamette Valley. $105 Lundeen specializes in site-driven wines. Their late disgorged Blanc de Blancs is aged 6–8 years on lees before bottling. It's produced on Nekia series soils of gravelly loam at a 600 ft elevation from a Dijon Chardonnay clone. The wine features aromas of citrus and baked apple atop a creamy mousse. The palate showcases toasty brioche, Meyer lemon, stone fruit, subtle spice, with a mouthwatering acidity and a long, elegant finish. Score: 93/100 Arabilis, Johan Vineyard VDC V21, 2021 Extra Brut, 12.5% ABV, 750 ml., Van Duzer Corridor, Willamette Valley. $80 This site-specific sparkler sources fruit from Johan Vineyard in the marine wind-cooled Van Duzer Corridor. This appellation is emerging as the Willamette Valley's prime sparkler-producing region. The Johan vineyard features silty, clay-loam soils composed of marine sediments with pockets of decomposed volcanic basalt. The wine features vibrant aromas of white flowers, lemon zest, and saline minerality. The palate showcases green apple notes, with crisp acidity and a stony, minerally finish—a precise, refined, and structured sparkling wine. Score: 93/100 RMS 2014 Delayed Disgorgement Brut, 12.5% ABV, 750 ml., Willamette Valley. $110 RMS is ROCO Winery's top-tier sparkling wine made from 67% Pinot Noir and 33% Chardonnay. It has aged a full decade on the lees before its delayed disgorgement. It's produced from a variety of sedimentary and volcanic series typical of the Willamette Valley. The wine features aromas of yellow plum, pear, chamomile, and buttery pastry. The palate showcases rich vanilla, tart apple, and stone fruit flavors, with crisp acidity and an opulent texture. A voluptuous, mature sparkler that is among the best produced in Oregon. Score 99/100 Soter Estates Brut Reserve, Mineral Springs Vineyard, 12.8% ABV, Yamhill Carlton, Willamette Valley. $65 Soter's sparkler blends estate Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and reserve wines, aged in a mix of oak and stainless tanks, followed by 4+ years on lees. The vineyard soils are a mix of Ribbon Ridge/Eola-Amity marine sediments and decomposed volcanic basalt. The wine features notes of almond brioche, tangerine, dried strawberry, baked apple, and apricot. A zesty acidity and delicate mousse yield a long, nuanced, and expressive finish. Score: 95/100 Sokol Blosser 2019 Blanc de Blanc, Dundee Hills, 12.5% ABV, 750 ml., Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley. $59 Sokol Blosser's Blanc de Blanc is a classic Chardonnay sparkler, reflecting the Dundee Hills' hallmark volcanic terroir and cool climate. It's produced from the brick-red, iron-rich, well-drained Jory volcanic soils of decomposed basalt. The wine is crisp, featuring citrus and white flower aromas with flavors of pear and baked apple on the palate. It boasts a refined minerality, complemented by bright acidity, a creamy texture, and a long, smooth finish. Score 93/100 Lytle Barnett 2017 Sparkling Wine, Extra Brut, 12.5% ABV, 750 ml., Eola Amity Hills, Willamette Valley. $75 Crafted by Andy Lytle, a veteran of Argyle and Domaine Serene, Lytle-Barnett produces artisanal, slow-aged méthode traditionnelle sparklers from Eola-Amity fruit. Vineyard soils consist of marine sediments and volcanic silt loam over a subsoil of decomposed volcanic basalt. The wine features a fine bead with aromas of citrus peel, brioche, and orchard fruit. On the palate, it showcases stone fruit and subtle toast notes, complemented by lively acidity and a seamless, elegant finish. Score: 93/100 Stoller Family Estate, 2019 LaRue Blanc de Blanc Sparkling Wine, Extra Brut, 12.5% ABV, Dundee Hills, Willamette Valley. $80 Stoller, based in Oregon's Dundee Hills AVA, is a benchmark producer in the Willamette Valley, known for sustainable viticulture and estate-grown wines. This sparkling wine is crafted exclusively from Chardonnay grapes sourced from our estate vineyards, using the traditional méthode champenoise , which reflects both Old World technique and New World precision. Extended lees aging enhances its complexity, offering a refined take on Oregon sparkling wine. The wine features a fine mousse with delicate bubbles and aromas of green apple, lemon zest, and white peach, complemented by subtle notes of brioche and almond from extended lees contact. The palate is crisp and precise, showcasing flavors of citrus, orchard fruit, and a hint of minerality, all wrapped in a vibrant acidity. The finish is elegant and refreshing, with a lingering note of toasted hazelnut and chalk. Score: 95/100 The wines featured at Method Oregon reflect not only the technical precision of their makers but also the unique geological and climatic conditions that define the Willamette Valley. From volcanic Jory soils in Dundee Hills to the wind-swept marine sediments of the Van Duzer Corridor, Oregon's terroirs shine through in each glass. Whether aged for a decade on lees or freshly disgorged to capture youthful verve, these sparklers are redefining American méthode traditionnelle . More importantly, they are showcasing Method Oregon. As consumer interest in premium sparkling wine continues to grow, Oregon is poised not just to participate—but to lead—with authenticity, artistry, and a fierce dedication to place. More From Forbes Forbes Oregon Pinot Noir Rosé—Why Saignée Method Wines Stand Out By Joseph V Micallef Forbes The World's Best Pinot Noir From The 2025 Decanter World Wine Awards By Joseph V Micallef Forbes The Best West Coast Pinot Noir Wines, According To The Top Wine Competitions By Joseph V Micallef

14 best supermarket wines, chosen by experts and sommeliers
14 best supermarket wines, chosen by experts and sommeliers

The Independent

time21-07-2025

  • Business
  • The Independent

14 best supermarket wines, chosen by experts and sommeliers

Whether you're after a crisp French rosé for a summer dinner party, a zesty Chardonnay to enjoy at a barbecue or a softly bubbly pét nat to try, the wine selection from supermarkets has never been better. From the viral 'chicken wine' (La Vieille Ferme Rosé) and Asda's tongue-in-cheek alternative to Whispering Angel, Screaming Devil, to Aldi's £9.99 orange wine, social media has helped democratise the wine world. 'Consumers are becoming more knowledgeable, more savvy; they can look anything up on the internet,' says Libby Brodie, wine consultant and columnist. 'Wine is a whole aisle now, as people want more variety as well as value, and supermarkets have wisely chosen to invest in their wine buyers and relationships with producers – because this is how most of us buy our wine.' This means that supermarkets are catering to more refined tastes, explains Sinead Murdoch, sommelier and co-founder at Tasca. 'Now top wine buyers are working for supermarkets, and the growing competition is raising the standard of what ends up on the shelves.' But discovering a truly great bottle at a supermarket is still tricky, so I went to the experts. From sommeliers to wine influencers, these are the best vinos from the local shops, as chosen by industry heavyweights. Meet the experts I spoke to qualified wine consultants, restaurant sommeliers, TikTok-viral influencers and wine critics to find the best bottles to sip in summer 2025. Libby Brodie is a qualified wine consultant with years of experience in the industry. She is the founder of Bacchus & Brodie Wine Consultancy, which personally curates wine selections for individuals or events. Katie Brook is a journalist with a specialism in wine and a decade of experience as a wine reviewer. She is the founder of Run To Wine - a London- and Surrey-based running club that ends its sessions with a wine tasting. Sinead Murdoch is a sommelier and co-founder of Tasca, a restaurant in London. Following a formal training, she headed up front of house at Shoreditch restaurant Bistro Freddie. She then spent time in Provence at Gallifet Art Centre, where she curated the wine list. Lucy Hitchcock is the wine enthusiast behind the @Partnerinwineuk social media account. She has nearly 100k on Instagram and 65k on TikTok, with her reviews of Aldi or M&S bottles regularly going viral.

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