6 of the best summer festivals to travel to, according to an expert
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
There's no better time to visit a new place than during a festival. These heightened moments, special points in the calendar, are when a culture reveals itself most vividly: town squares are festooned with flowers and draped in finery, people conceal themselves beneath extravagant costumes and wild-eyed masks, and the air is filled with the sound of music and the delicious smells of festival food.
But beyond just being outwardly captivating, festivals are also fascinating portraits of human behaviour. While writing my book about festivals, Fiesta: A Journey Through Festivity, I travelled from Indonesia to Ingol, Lancashire – and found that, across the world, festivals reflect certain universal patterns. The —sual rules of life are upended: social hierarchies dissolve, inhibitions are shed, and altered states of consciousness are pursued with relish. Whether you're a participant or an observer, the experience of a festival can be inspiring, life-affirming and, sometimes, transcendent. Here are six of the best festivals to visit across the world this summer.
Summer solstice (20/21/22 June)It may have entered the horror pantheon thanks to the celebrated 2019 movie Midsommar, but there's nothing (too) scary about Scandinavia's real-life summer solstice celebrations, the most famous of which is to be found in the central Swedish town of Leksand.
As many as 30,000 spectators descend on the town to watch locals, dressed in traditional white blouses, colourful dresses and floral wreaths, process from the town church to the Sammilsdal, a natural grassy amphitheatre. Here, they dance around a maypole covered in plants and flowers, singing folk songs which celebrate the warmth and light of the year's longest day. The party continues long into the twilight of the midsummer night, with revellers eating pickled herring and strawberries and drinking aquavit, the potent local liquor.
(6 of the best destinations to celebrate midsummer in Europe.)
Last weekend of JuneMore than just the archetypal summer music festival, Glastonbury reflects many of the strands common to festivity across the world — seasonality, debauchery, connection to nature, music and dance – and the resulting atmosphere is that of a folkloric utopia, all soundtracked by the finest musicians on the planet. A primordial rooting in the earth and connection to the seasonal calendar — common to many of the Glastonbury area's festivals — is fostered by the event's timing close to the summer solstice, and bards, druids and pagans of all stripes can often be found gathered at the festival's very own stone circle — built not in 3000 BCE, but 1992.
The festival's proximity to Glastonbury Tor, meanwhile, infuses the event with a touch of King Arthur mythology. And five miles from the festival site, many more solstice celebrants can be found at this green hill topped with a medieval tower, which is often identified with the mythical Isle of Avalon from Arthurian legend. In the nearby town of Glastonbury itself, meanwhile, celebrants gather at the Chalice Well, a sacred spring held in some legends to hide the Holy Grail.
21 June-20 SeptemberEvery summer, in the Dhofar region of Oman's less-visited south, the desert blooms. From June to September, the tongues of the southeast monsoon lash the coast around Oman's second city, Salalah, causing waterfalls and rivers to burst into life and seeing this otherwise arid corner of the Arabian Peninsula erupt in a riot of tropical green. Omanis flock from the oppressive heat of the north to refresh themselves in the fine misty rain, swim in natural pools framed by resplendent greenery, and relish the scent of the world's finest frankincense trees in full bloom. The carnival-like Khareef Festival sees three months of music and dance performances, souks selling handicrafts and traditional foods, and hot air balloons soaring in the sky above.
29 JuneThe tiny Mediterranean nation of Malta has one of the most jam-packed festival calendars in Europe, with more than one hundred festi – the local celebration of Catholic saints' days — held between March and September. Each has its own character. Rabat hosts a stately affair in March, with regal decorations and a brass-band procession, while Mqabba marks its festa with some of the most rip-roaring fireworks displays imaginable. But the most memorable is arguably Mnarja (or L-Imnarja), held on 29 June to celebrate saints Peter and Paul. Held outside Rabat in the Buskett Gardens woodlands, the event sees locals dressed in medieval ruffs and velvet tunics, displays of fruit and vegetable carving, wandering minstrels playing Maltese folk tunes, and mountains of traditional food, including the national dish, rabbit stew.
4-5 JulyTravel guides to Japan often emphasise the politeness and gentleness of its people, their cultural aversion to public outbursts and their dedication to exquisite, traditional arts and crafts. All of which makes it somewhat surprising to turn up in the Noto Peninsula town of Ushitsu each July and find it consumed by the chaos and fury of the Abare Festival, a.k.a the 'Fire & Violence Festival'. Huge, beautiful lanterns, painted with mythological scenes and folktales, are painstakingly created throughout the year, only to be ritualistically destroyed by a band of drunk, loincloth-clad men, who smash the decorations against lampposts and pavements before burning them at the town's main shrine. This symbolic riot of rage has its origins in the 17th century, as a way to ward off disease. Before, during and after the main procession, much sake is consumed by participants and spectators alike.
Ninth lunar month (September or October; dates vary)A vegetarian festival, you might think, sounds pretty wholesome; a celebration of the tasty, health-bestowing properties of a meat-free diet. The island of Phuket, however, clearly didn't get the memo. While this celebration does incorporate much delicious plant-based food, the nine-day Phuket Vegetarian Festival is more explicitly characterised by deafening noise and mind-boggling ritual mutilation, with spirit mediums processing through the streets of Phuket Old Town by the thousand with swords, skewers and other sharp objects stuck through their faces at all angles. Firewalking and climbing ladders of knives are among the other trials which the spirit mediums undertake, all while in a deep trance, to the sound of a chorus of firecrackers. Not an event for the faint of heart.
(Pearls, Peranakan culture and rare rituals: this is Phuket — but not as you know it.)
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National Geographic
9 hours ago
- National Geographic
Beyond the beach, Antalya makes for a cultural city break
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Gateway to the Turkish Riviera, Antalya basks in the sunshine on the country's southern Mediterranean coast, hugging the gulf that bears its name. Modern but with a picturesque, ancient heart, the city centres around a Roman-era harbour and the lattice of cobblestone lanes that make up the old town Kaleiçi (meaning 'within the castle'), which is dotted with centuries-old mosques and restored Ottoman houses. It's here that locals pause for long mezze lunches beneath waves of fuschia bougainvillea, or sit with an ice cream to soak up the sight of the Taurus Mountains rising in the distance beyond the bay. Much like Rome, this is a city that wears its history on its sleeve, with stretches of two-thousand-year-old walls, imposing gateways and historic mansions scattered liberally throughout its core. The nearby ruins of the ancient cities of Perge and Aspendos offer a glimpse of the power that this region commanded over the centuries — Perge, in particular, was one of the most important outposts of its era — while a vast necropolis, discovered by accident during the construction of a shopping mall, lies sandwiched between modern developments. Modern but with a picturesque, ancient heart, the city centres around a Roman-era harbour and the lattice of cobblestone lanes that make up the old town Kaleiçi (meaning 'within the castle'). Photograph by Aisha Nazar The majority of travellers in search of a classic beach break tend to head to the Lara neighbourhood, to the east, where dozens of gargantuan hotels and all-inclusive resorts loom over a five-mile-long stretch of sand. You're more likely to find locals in Konyaalti, to the west, home to another great swathe of beach but backed by low-rise apartments. There are smaller, more intimate boutique hotels here, alongside rustic lokanta diners serving home-style cooking to hungry workers and traditional restaurants spilling out onto the pavements on the otherwise quiet residential streets. Predominantly, Antalya has been seen as a summertime destination, with its sizeable student population lending it a young, buzzy feel that pairs well with its breezy beachside location. But in recent years, the city has begun to attract visitors year-round, even in winter when temperatures can still brush the low 20s and more hotels are keeping their doors open. Whatever time you visit, you're practically guaranteed to find warm sunshine, clear aquamarine seas and good food — from simit, the sesame-studded take on bagels, to yoghurty Turkish eggs for breakfast and platters of grilled fish, freshly caught from the Mediterranean, for lunch. What to see and do Hadrian's Gate & the Kaleiçi: Start your exploration of Antalya's picturesque old town at second-century Hadrian's Gate, a trio of imposing arches set into the original outer walls of the city and built to celebrate the visit of Emperor Hadrian. Step through them and the modern city fades into a maze of streets flanked with historic Ottoman houses and carved wooden balconies, family-run restaurants and bars serving mezze dishes and fresh fish on mounds of ice. Some streets lead down to the Roman harbour, while others wind past minarets and ancient bakeries up to viewpoints and leafy squares that look out over the sea. Much like Rome, this is a city that wears its history on its sleeve, with stretches of two-thousand-year-old walls, imposing gateways and historic mansions scattered liberally throughout its core. Photograph by Aisha Nazar The Şehzade Korkut Mosque is an architectural gem in Kaleiçi (also known as the Kesik Minare Cami) that began life in the second century as a Roman temple — before being converted into a Byzantine church, a mosque, a church again and then back into a mosque. Photograph by Aisha Nazar Bay-hopping by gulet: Gulets — traditional wooden boats — sail from the Roman Harbour each morning, offering everything from two-hour drifts along Antalya's spectacular coastline, with a stop at the Lower Düden Waterfalls, to full-day tours. It's a scenic way to get your bearings, as well as snorkel in the quiet bays that fringe the pyramid-shaped Suluada Island, at the westernmost end of the Gulf of Antalya. Choose your boat on the day (most depart around 10.30am); lunch is usually included. Perge Ancient City: A 20-minute drive north east from Kaleiçi, first-century Perge is second only to Ephesus — Turkey's most famous ancient site, near Izmir on the Aegean coast — in terms of size and scale. Allow at least a couple of hours to explore beneath the imposing Hadrianus Arch, walk between the colonnades and stand in the middle of the vast stadium, which feels straight out of the Gladiator film set. Enough of the site has been restored to make it easy to visualise how it would have once looked — a must-visit, even if you aren't usually a history fan. Antalya Museum: Before visiting Perge, it's worth calling into the ancient city's imposing museum, home to hundreds of marble statues of Roman deities taken from the site, which give a real insight into how extraordinary the city would have been in its heyday. Alongside the statues, the 13 galleries house Byzantine mozaics, intricately carved sarcophagi and Paleolithic relics, including tools and human and animal remains. Exhibits extend into the leafy gardens, where peacocks — including a rare, all-white bird — stroll between the cafe tables. Hadrian's Gate is a trio of imposing arches set into the original outer walls of the city and built to celebrate the visit of Emperor Hadrian. Photograph by Aisha Nazar The Upper Düden Waterfalls tumble through tranquil, leafy parkland, 20 minutes' drive from the city centre. Photograph by Aisha Nazar Upper Düden Waterfalls: While the Lower Düden Waterfalls cascade directly into the sea in the Lara district, nine miles upriver the Upper Falls tumble through tranquil, leafy parkland, 20 minutes' drive from the city centre. A walkway is carved into the rockface around and behind the falls, opening out into a waterside path that leads down to a clutch of restaurants with decked terraces over the water — an idyllic spot for a mezze lunch or cold Efes beer. Şehzade Korkut Mosque: This architectural gem in Kaleiçi (also known as the Kesik Minare Cami) began life in the second century as a Roman temple — before being converted into a Byzantine church, a mosque, a church again and then back into a mosque. The space inside is unadorned, making the remnants of its past incarnations — including the Roman arched entrance and the remains of the church masonry — all the more remarkable. Like a local Promenade under the palms: Kept shady by rows of palms, the leafy Konyaalti Beach Park is sandwiched between the brilliant sea and a long road lined with apartments and places to eat. It has showers for those who take a dip, while the row of bars and restaurants — set on lawns and decked terraces between the trees — offer everything from ice-cold beer to fresh seafood. Stop by the Old Bazaar to buy saffron, aci biber (dried chilli flakes) and other spices, and small souvenirs to take home. Photograph by Aisha Nazar Turkish coffee can be enjoyed from kiosk near the Lower Düden Waterfalls. Photograph by Aisha Nazar Eat in the fish market: Located next to the Lower Düden Waterfalls, Balik Çarşisi is Antalya's modern fish market. Trestle tables packed with local families fill the cavernous space; it's noisy, rustic and alcohol-free, but the choice and freshness of the seafood is unbeatable. Browse the Bazaar: The market held every Tuesday in Konyaalti's Liman neighbourhood is a more local affair than the Old Bazaar — the city's main marketplace, north of Kaleiçi — with stalls selling fruit and veg, clothes, shoes and homewares. Pick up a gozleme (a warm flat bread filled with feta cheese or spiced potatoes) to enjoy as you browse the place. Where to go shopping Faruk Güllüoğlu: Of all the Turkish desserts, none are more famous than baklava — layers of filo pastry filled with chopped nuts and coated in a sweet syrup. A box from Faruk Güllüoğlu — Antalya's most popular bakery chain — is often taken as a gift by local people when visiting relatives. Choose from traditional pistachio, kuru baklava with its thicker syrup or cevizli, filled with cinnamon and walnuts. The Old Bazaar: Hung with jewel-hued lanterns and Ottoman-print scarves, this is the main market in the city and is located just north of Kaleiçi. Come to buy saffron, aci biber (dried chilli flakes) and other spices, and small souvenirs to take home. It's popular, so haggle hard and don't be afraid to walk away if the price doesn't suit. 07040 Muratpaşa Shaded by palm trees and popular with locals; Koori Tex in Kaleiçi is a family business specialising in cotton products. Photograph by Aisha Nazar Koori Tex: Among the Kaleiçi's endless souvenir shops, this neat, cream-walled boutique sells chic cotton scarves, muslin dressing gowns and linen dresses. All the fabrics are organic — plus, the lightweight cotton towels on sale are perfect for the beach. Where to eat Parlak: Family-run for three generations, Parlak, just off the main shopping street Kazim Özalp Caddesi, is most famous for its grilled chicken, slathered in butter and cooked over open flames. Book a table on the new outdoor terrace and begin with piyaz white bean salad and spicy, finger-shaped sis kofta meatballs and finish off with a glass or two of raki, Turkey's aniseed-flavoured spirit. Ayar Meyhanesi: On a cobbled corner of Kaleiçi, this open-air restaurant is famed for its mezze — yoghurt-rich dips, smoky aubergine salad, crispy borek (spinach and cheese pie) and filo cigarettes stuffed with feta and parsley — along with fish like turbot, grouper and sea bass, grilled and butter-soft. Live Turkish music adds to the atmosphere and it's mellow enough that you can still chat without having to shout. Antalya Balık Evi: Snag an outdoor table at this popular fish restaurant directly opposite Lara's sandy beach and dine on classic Turkish dishes with a creative twist. Among them is grilled octopus with soy and balsamic, and candied pumpkin baked with sugar and walnuts — deliciously sticky and super-sweet. Parlak is located off the main shopping street Kazim Özalp Caddesi, and is most famous for its grilled chicken, slathered in butter and cooked over open flames. Photograph by Aisha Nazar After hours Off Cocktail Bar: One of the most innovative cocktail bars in the city, Off in Lara is cool and contemporary, with a chic wood-and-rattan interior and a drinks menu encompassing sours, shots and the classics. The house originals are numbered from 1-11; the No 10 — tequila, lemon juice, chilli and grapefruit — has a particularly spicy kick. Filika Cafe Bar: A long-time favourite with locals as well as visitors, Filika morphs from chilled-out cafe by day to lively bar by night, with tables spilling onto a Kaleiçi street and regular live music. It's not the place to come for an evening of mellow jazz, but rather a fun, mixed group of people and a crowd-pleasing menu of reasonably priced cocktails. 251 Soul: Part of the Akra Hotel on Lara's long, beachy strip, 251 Soul is a rare musical find in Antalya, focusing on blues, jazz and soul seven nights a week. Dimly lit, with small, circular tables and a gleaming bar, it specialises in dry-as-a-bone martinis. There's more than a hint of speakeasy style, attracting a young, trendy crowd. Snag an outdoor table at the popular fish restaurant, Antalya Balik Evi, and dine on classic Turkish dishes with a creative twist. Photograph by Aisha Nazar The pool at Tuvana hotel is surrounded by bougainvillea and pomegranate trees. Photograph by Aisha Nazar Where to stay Tuvana: The owners of Tuvana grew up in Kaleiçi and restoring this cluster of 18th-century Ottoman houses surrounding two peaceful courtyards has been their passion project. Rooms range from small and simple, with exposed stone walls and wooden beams, to spacious suites with crisp white walls, gilt-framed mirrors and scarlet drapes. All have access to the good-sized pool and palm-shaded bar terrace, with the second courtyard home to the excellent Seraser restaurant. Ruin Adalia: Part adults-only hotel, part museum, these five Ottoman houses sit above a Roman archaeological site — the largest in Kaleiçi, with ancient walls and masonry accessed via a wooden boardwalk. Above, chic rooms with muted gold furnishings and duck-egg fabric feel cool and airy, while the pool and plant-filled terrace area is a peaceful oasis in the middle of the old town. Su Hotel: This contemporary hotel in Konyaaltı is an all-white temple to minimalism, from the extraordinary monochrome lobby to the bedrooms framed with jet-black curtains. The exception lies in the aptly named Red restaurant, which is decked top-to-toe in bright scarlet shades. There's also a world-class spa and pretty, lounger-fringed pool here, while the rooftop bar is the ideal place for sundowners come nightfall. Getting there & around: Antalya-based airline SunExpress flies direct from Gatwick, Liverpool and Birmingham to Antalya. Alternatively, airlines such as Jet2, EasyJet and British Airways fly direct to Antalya from airports across the UK. Average flight time: city's modern tram system offers a direct connection between the airport and the city centre; take the AntRay tram to the central tram station, from where it's a short taxi ride to further points in the city. Antalya is a big city — from Lara to Konyaalti or Kaleiçi can take up to 40 minutes — so it's a good idea to download the AntalyaKart Mobil transportation app to make use of the excellent bus service. Buses can be paid for by contactless payment or via an AntalyaKart card (available from vending machines at stations), which can be topped up. Taxis are also plentiful; always make sure the meter is set and running when you begin your journey to ensure a fair price. When to go: Antalya gets very hot and busy in June, July and August, the peak summer months, when temperatures can top 40C. The shoulder seasons — May to June and September to October — are more manageable, with the mercury rarely dipping below 25C and fewer crowds. Increasingly, Antalya is becoming known as a winter sun destination, with November and February to March still seeing temperatures in the low to mid 20s. December and January can still be pleasant, although there is more likelihood of rain. More info: DK Top 10: Turkey's Southwest Coast, Dorling Kindersley. £8.99 How to do it: Fly direct to Antalya with SunExpress. Stay at the Tuvana boutique hotel, which has doubles from £85, B&B. This story was created with the support of Sun Express, the Tuvana Hotel, Parlak Restaurant and Published in the July/August 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
15 hours ago
- National Geographic
Everything you need to know about Scottish whisky
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). These days, every nation is discovering whisky distillation, but the global superstars are without doubt the Scottish. With a production history dating back to the 15th century, the country has spent hundreds of years perfecting distillation and wood-ageing. Along with heritage, it's the variety that sets the Scots and their scotch apart from other whiskies worldwide. The spirit is produced in every corner of the country, and there are complex contrasts between, say, an eye-opening Islay whisky, something sweet from Speyside or the lighter lowland styles. Meanwhile, blended whisky takes the array of single malts and combines them with innovative results. The flavour spectrum runs from warm wood and smoke to cereals, biscuits, honey, fresh and spiced fruit and floral notes, so there's a prospect for every palate here. Strict legislation has also helped the industry deliver consistent quality, and while traditional techniques are at the artisan heart of scotch, there have been more recent sparks of innovation. Wood finishes have become more interesting, for example, where the whisky is rested for a final spell in different kinds of oak, with port, Maderia or Burgundy barrels being employed. Such experiments have elevated the spirit's profile again and can make it accessible for a broader spectrum of drinkers. Dram Bar in London pours up an almond and pineapple cocktail using the Craigellachie whisky with its cereal and meaty notes. What is single malt Scottish whisky? This simply means the whisky must be produced in a single distillery, and in the case of scotch, distilled from malted and then fermented barley. The difference between single malt and blended scotch is that the latter is combination of single malts from many distilleries. Rather than simply malted barley, it can also include a different grain distillate. In all cases, to be considered scotch it must be distilled and matured in oak casks in Scotland for at least three years and bottled there at a minimum of 40% alcohol by volume (ABV). How does it compare to other varieties around the world? The Japanese initially worshiped and indeed mimicked scotch, and while you'll find fresh, innovative voices there now, there are many similarities in flavours. But since the Scots came first, they have a few centuries on the Japanese whisky-makers, having learned from mistakes, and spent decades testing wood styles, learning about the nuances of ageing, advancing the science of distillation and judging the impact of still shape on distillation. The Irish triple distil and produce smoother styles — they invented whiskey and spell it with the 'e'. They were once the market leader but initially stuck with their pot stills and turned their back on the column still, a technology ushered in in the 19th century that distilled spirit quicker and cheaper. The Irish were concerned the lighter style of spirit it produced would put drinkers off, but the Scots embraced this technology (also known as the continuous still) for their blended whisky and it helped brands like Johnnie Walker become global powerhouses. However, the Irish industry has been flourishing recently, so keep an eye on whiskeys from the Emerald Isle. The Americans play with grains, and in the case of straight bourbon use corn as the dominant ingredient and age the spirit in new American oak. It's a much sweeter whisky, but there's variety here, too, including single malts and — something spicier — American straight rye. There's also an interesting movement in 'world whisky', with the Austalians, Germans, Scandinavians and even English enjoying plaudits from the purists. Glenmorangie Distillery in the Scottish Highlands has the tallest stills in the industry, which creates a lighter spirit. Photograph by Glenmorangie Distillery What are some traditional names to look out for? Speyside is the heartland of Scotch, with a higher density of distilleries than anywhere else, and a water source that imparts a sweeter profile. Approachable crowd-pleasers like The Glenlivet, Glenfiddich or sherry-forward The Macallan will be familiar to most — but branch out to Glenfarclas to see a whisky maker take a sherry profile in a different direction or the complex Craigellachie for its cereal and meaty notes. In the Highlands, Glenmorangie has the tallest stills in the industry, which creates a lighter spirit. The company has also been celebrated for innovation in wood finished spirits. For the more experienced palate, head to Islay where firing the malt in kilns fuelled with local peat bestows bold, smoky notes. Lagavulin is the ideal introduction with a slightly richer and sweeter smoke versus Laphroaig for the bigger iodine notes. Meanwhile, Johnnie Walker remains the reliable stalwart of traditional blending, with master blender Emma Walker — a former pharmaceutical chemist who has no relation to the family-founded brand — is celebrated in the whisky world. What are the new-wave whiskies of note? There has been a raft of new Scottish distilleries opening in the past 20 years, and many are now producing stunning spirits. Torbhaig on the Isle of Skye was the first new distillery on the island for 190 years and the light, peaty and maritime whiskies from here are absolute belters. NcNean has pushed boundaries of sustainability with its Organic Single Malt, a lighter and spicier spirit that's been rested in red wine casks. And Highland newcomer Ardnamurchan is a true gem. Based on the Western edge of Scotland, it's been seriously impressing whisky fans since releasing its first bottle in 2020. And the one to watch? That would be Dalmunach, in Speyside. The distillery only opened in 2014, and is already turning out incredible whisky, including 2024's six-year-old releases. In the world of blended whisky, Compass Box deserves credit for shaking things up by being incredibly transparent about the types and ages of whisky it uses. And in terms of new kids on the block, try bottlings from both Turntable and Woven — both producers are proving truly innovative with their small-batch, blending approach. By focusing on limited editions rather than one style, they've explored a wide range of flavour profiles and are attracting a younger audience to the category. A variety of whiskies are offered at Malt Vault in Utrecht, Netherlands. Photograph by Thirsa Nijwening Does age matter? Yes. It determines the minimum amount of time a whisky spends in a barrel. And wood maturation is critical to aroma and flavour, so any decent single malt is likely to have spent more time in the barrel than the requisite three years. The longer whisky spends in the barrel, the more colour the whisky takes on and the more influence the wood has on aroma and flavour. But older isn't necessarily better. Too much time in wood can adulterate the house style of a new-make whisky distillate, so it's about balance. For example, the Dalmunach 6 Year Old is an example of something young that can impress. In more recent years, dwindling stocks of single malt have led to the emergence of No Age Statement whiskies, allowing a producer to blend different ages and styles but still deliver a tasty single malt. Meanwhile, Johnnie Walker Blue includes 60-year-old whiskies in the blend, so it doesn't always follow that a number on the bottle is the entire story. What is the most authentic way to drink it? Whisky snobs are a dying breed, yet some will still tell you not to add anything to your whisky. But drink it any way you see fit — it's your whisky. However, neat and at room temperature is an essential starting point to understand the flavour. Adding a little water is accepted by the traditionalists and opens some more of the aroma and flavour — and it's also essential with a cask strength whisky at 57% abv. It's true that the chill from added ice will restrict and suppress some of the flavours, but if you like ice in a spirit, then add ice. And know that whisky makes fantastic cocktails, one of the best serves you can try is a highball: simply whisky over ice in a tall glass, topped with soda water. The Malt Vault in Utrecht, Netherlands is hidden at canal level and built into an arched former wharf storeroom. Photograph by Thirsa Nijwening Where are the best places to try it? A distillery visit is essential to really getting to know the spirit — and falling for its charms. And many producers provide engaging experiences. Talisker in Skye offers some of the best tours and tastings, although its worth noting the tourist numbers are putting a strain on the island. Easily accessible, the Bow Bar in Edinburgh is an essential whisky pub experience, while the city's glitzier Johnnie Walker Princess Street experience is the Malt Disney of whisky tours. And you don't necessarily need to head north; most major cities now have a great whisky bar. Take The Malt Vault in Utrecht, Netherlands — a fantastic gem, hidden at canal level and built into an arched former wharf storeroom. Elsewhere, Dram, in London is an innovative spot that proves whisky cocktails deserve respect. The Thinking Drinkers are Ben McFarland and Tom Sandham, award-winning alcohol experts who have recently embarked on The Great British Pub Ride, cycling 1,000 miles on a tandem, stopping only in pubs. Visit YouTube to see the journey. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
a day ago
- National Geographic
How passionate Colombians are shaking up Cartagena's cultural scene
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). The roar of scooters battles with the beat of salsa and the bellows of market stallholders. Plantains blanket the ground, and corn-loaded carts criss-cross between people and rogue chickens. An artist paints posters for the city's upcoming festivals while a man sits in a plastic chair on the pavement and gets a haircut. This is Cartagena's open-air Bazurto Market, and it's a labyrinth of unfiltered chaos. The market, a few miles outside the city centre, is full of Cartageneros like local chef María Cecilia Restrepo, simply known as Chechi, who come here to buy their fish, meat, fruit and vegetables. 'The smells, the colours, knowing where our food comes from: it all provides context to the cuisine of Cartagena,' she says as we wind between stalls. She fans herself from the stifling Caribbean heat as we walk around, her arms veiled in tattoos of intertwining flowers and snakes. 'I like snakes. They shed their skin and start fresh — it's a symbol of renewal,' she tells me. And that's exactly what the chef is doing: using her Arab-Caribbean roots to reshape and renew northern Colombian food. Chechi makes kibbeh in her bright pink kitchen. She pays homage not only to her Arab roots, but to all the other cultures that have left their mark on Cartagena: European, African and Indigenous. 'Because when it comes to food, it all works in synergy,' she says. Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch During the late 19th century, Arabs from Lebanon, Palestine, Syria and Jordan fled the Ottoman Empire and headed to the Americas in search of a better life. Many settled in northern Colombian port cities such as Barranquilla and Cartagena, Chechi tells me. In 1923, her great-great-grandmother, Sofi, arrived in Cartagena from her native Syria, a journey that took four months by boat. 'My grandmother taught me how to cook. I grew up on Arabic food, so it's important for me to honour and celebrate my heritage,' she says. We jump in a taxi and head to the Centro Histórico. Within the old city walls, it's home to a myriad of colourful 17th-century architecture. Visitors gather at the Spanish Colonial church of San Pedro Claver and the canary-yellow Cartagena Cathedral to take photos, and locals and tourists alike meet in the shade of the imposing Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower). The cacophony of street vendors and bar music sounds out into the early hours. On a street where the balconies are dressed in pink bougainvillea, Chechi pushes open a pink wooden door to her kitchen. Here, she pays homage not only to her Arab roots but to all the other cultures that have left their mark on Cartagena: European, African and Indigenous. 'Because when it comes to food, it all works in synergy,' she says. This is a 'secret kitchen', only open for special dinners and on Saturdays for cooking workshops, drop-ins and takeaways. It's small, with a handful of wooden tables for diners, separated from the cooking station by baby-pink curtains. The beams, cabinets and menus are all also pink — the colour is empowering and energising, Chechi tells me, tightening her apron. The walls are covered in art depicting typical Cartagenero life, from the city's beaches to its palenqueras — women known for balancing baskets of fruit on their heads. Find fresh fruit vendors within Cartagena's Centro Histórico or at the open-air Bazurto Market, just outside of the city centre and full of Cartageneros who come to buy their fish, meat, fruit and vegetables. Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch In the late 19th century, Arabs from Lebanon, Palestine, Syria and Jordan fled the Ottoman Empire and headed to the Americas in search of a better life. Many settled in northern Colombian port cities such as Barranquilla and Cartagena. Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch Chechi has represented Colombian cuisine at official events in embassies in Poland, Cuba and Panama — but it's in her kitchen, once the home of her great-grandparents, where she feels most comfortable. Helping the chef today is Georgina Álvarez, a former inmate at San Diego Women's Prison in Cartagena, with whom Chechi struck up a friendship while volunteering there. The next hour is all hands on deck as the women prepare kibbeh (a Syrian/Lebanese dish of pounded ground beef and bulghur wheat) and arepas de huevos (fried flatbreads filled with egg and sold on the streets along Colombia's Caribbean coast). 'Arepa de huevo is the queen of the fried table,' Chechi says as she grinds black corn. 'Fried food like arepas and patacon (fried plantain) were introduced to Colombia by settlers from West Africa.' The sounds of smashing, chopping and frying compete with the tooting horns and animated calls of mango vendors on the streets outside. Arepas and kibbeh ready, we sit at a table in the dining area and tuck in. I tear a kibbeh in half and dip it into a pot of suero costeño, a kind of sour cream typical of Colombia's Caribbean coast, perhaps akin to the Arabic labneh. Its tang offsets the bulghur wheat and beef beautifully. Georgina brings over two types of hummus: one standard and one a bright-pink version infused with beetroot and Kola Román, a soft drink created in Cartagena in 1865. I bite into an arepa. It's earthy, slightly nutty on the outside, with velvety, runny egg in the middle, and so good, I ask Chechi for the recipe. 'Of course! I want to share as much as I can…', she enthuses, pausing to watch me take a second bite, '…to transcend and leave a mark.' Visitors gather at the Spanish Colonial church of San Pedro Claver and the canary-yellow Cartagena Cathedral, finished in 1612, to take photos, and locals and tourists alike meet in the shade of the imposing Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower). Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch Setting the bar high Chechi isn't the only Cartagenera shaking things up here. One man doing literally that is Miguel Ángel Mora, bartender and project manager at Alquímico, a multi-storey cocktail bar that opened in the heart of Cartagena's colonial centre in 2016. It's on Calle del Colegio, sandwiched between a tattoo parlour, a hipster sushi joint and a hole-in-the-wall currency exchange shop. I peek through the window display — stacked with apothecary-style jars containing starfruit and various herbs — and that's when Miguel appears, gesturing for me to enter and take a seat on a velvet sofa on the ground floor. It's just shy of opening time and staff around us are busy sweeping floors and restocking shelves. 'The award put Colombia on the cocktail scene,' Miguel says, referring to Alquímico's first appearance on the World's 50 Best Bar rankings in 2020. 'But you have to stay humble, keep your feet on the ground.' In 2024, it ranked number eight, one of only two bars in Colombia to make the prestigious list. Decorated with typewriters, gramophones and regal red curtains, the bar feels art deco in style. At the back of the room, twin staircases lead to two more bars: the second floor offers classic cocktails with a local twist, while the rooftop is a mural-laden tiki-style space decorated in the colours of the Colombian flag. The menu on the ground floor is called 'Comunidad' (Community), and features eight cocktails with creative ingredients like lulo, a tropical fruit native to South America, and viche, a spirit distilled from sugar cane. The approach at Alquímico is a little different from your average Caribbean cocktail bar. A percentage from the sale of each drink is donated to Asocoman — a farmers' association in the Montes de María region — which uses it to install water purifiers and gutters for rainwater collection. Walk southeast along the waterfront of the Centro Historico to get to Cartagena's hip Getsemani district. Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch 'We try to use local products and work with local farmers and agricultural communities as much as possible,' says Miguel. He's dressed in black, except for an elaborate necklace depicting a tiger's head, made by the Embera Chami, an Indigenous people from Colombia and Panama. 'Come, I'll make you a drink,' he says, heading towards the bar. He fixes me an Albahaca, a heady concoction of Patrón Silver tequila, basil, lemongrass infusion and guarapo, an alcohol made from fermented sugarcane juice. He pours the mixture into a wooden cup, balances a leaf-shaped cracker on top and slides it towards me. It's brilliantly refreshing, delivering sour, herbaceous and sweet notes in equal measure. Soon, the doors open and a few dozen people — some in T-shirts and trainers, others dressed up to the nines — come in and congregate around the bar. By midnight, all of Alquímico's customers are on their feet, dancing to DJ-spun salsa and reggaeton, joined by bar staff who keep the rhythm with the relentless rattle of their cocktail shakers. New beginnings On the other side of town is Bocagrande, a relatively wealthy neighbourhood home to beach-facing luxury hotels and highbrow restaurants. It's here, in a corner of the concierge lounge of the Intercontinental Hotel, that Indira Morales de la Rosa sells bags, shoes and hats. Stacked on wooden shelves are a variety of her most popular items: ornamental wooden boats, beach bags in Colombian colours and tasselled sandals in muted blues, pinks and oranges. In the corner of the room sits a rag doll made entirely of leftover materials. This is no ordinary hotel gift shop — and Indira is no ordinary woman. Locals chat outside a bar on Calle de las Carretas. Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch In 2023, Indira Morales de la Rosa's work with natural fibres earned her a 'green business' label from the Colombian Ministry of Environment, and she's seen her designs on catwalks in Dubai, New York and Bogotá. Photograph by Karolina Wiercigroch She's originally from the Sur de Bolívar region, roughly two and half hours by car from Cartegena, but her family was displaced several times in the '90s because of armed conflict. Aged 16, she started making bracelets with fique, a plant native to the Andes and used for centuries to make textile products such as clothes and hammocks. When I approach her at her small workstation, she's using the fibre to make a bracelet. 'I got this from all the weaving,' she tells me, pointing to a small bump on her thumb. 'Everyone in my family has one — my mother's side were all weavers.' She gestures for me to take over the half-finished bracelet, watching closely as I loop a blue recycled thread over a black one. She's only too glad to teach people who swing by her store, especially children. 'It's essential to empower the next generation,' she says, 'and show everyone who visits the beautiful city the wonders of weaving.' Indira has lived in Cartagena for 15 years and works with a community of around 60 people from her home region to make her products. They include farmers, weavers and people with disabilities who often get overlooked for job opportunities. In 2023, her work with natural fibres earned her a 'green business' label from the Colombian Ministry of Environment, and she's seen her designs on catwalks in Dubai, New York and Bogotá. It's right here in Cartagena, however, where she sees her future. 'It's my dream to one day grow fique here,' she says, fastening the finished bracelet around my wrist. 'I love being here — it makes me feel empowered and alive.' I've only been in Cartagena for a few days, but I already know exactly what she means. This story was created with the support of Journey Latin America and Colombia Travel. Published in the June 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
