‘The opposite of fast fashion': The romance of a well-made shoe
When Francis Waplinger started making his own footwear in the mid-2000s, the business of bespoke shoemaking was virtually obsolete in the United States. So he journeyed to Italy, where the craft has been passed down for generations. He now runs a workshop in Brooklyn, where he has plenty of customers — thanks, in part, to a resurgence in classic menswear.
I grew up playing soccer and skateboarding, so I was always interested in the newest skate shoes or soccer cleats. I would buy all-black sneakers and airbrush them different colors.
I took a couple of shoemaking classes in my early 20s, which were my introduction to more traditional shoe construction. I was just out of college, working at a high-end bed-and-breakfast.
I started wearing these shoes that I'd made. I felt a little more confident. More grown-up.
Story continues below advertisement
Advertisement
I became obsessed with finding a way to make beautiful shoes. I started looking for apprenticeships in the United States, but aside from Western bootmaking, there was no apprenticing system, and not even the YouTube videos that we have today.
I ended up traveling through Europe with my girlfriend, just searching for someone who could teach me.
But things didn't go according to plan.
Eventually we ended up in Florence, where I learned everything I know today about shoemaking. For the first two years, I studied in a shoemaking school under a man named Angelo Imperatrice.
Angelo had been making shoes since he was 14 years old, living in southern Italy, and he came to Florence when he was in his 20s. He was so full of energy, always with a twinkle in his eye.
After that, I worked in the shop of a well-known shoemaker named Roberto Ugolini. His right-hand man, Robertino, also taught me a lot while I was in the shop.
Like Angelo, Roberto came from a long line of shoemakers. He was working in the family shoe repair shop when he decided he wanted to learn the craft of bespoke shoemaking.
Story continues below advertisement
Advertisement
Roberto was very direct, but he balanced it out with a sense of humor.
When we came back to the United States in 2015, I started my own business in Southampton, New York. We moved to Brooklyn in 2020. It happened to be a time when there was a bit of a renaissance in artisanal products. People were tired of getting junk, tired of fast fashion.
What I do is the opposite of fast fashion. Every pair of shoes takes at least 80 hours to make. It can be 16 months from when an order is placed that the customer receives their shoes.
My older clients might be businessmen who have always dressed this way. But a lot of the younger ones are part of this sort of gentlemen subculture. They want to dress up and dress more classically.
Most of my customers find me through word of mouth. They're interested in luxury, but not pop luxury such as Chanel or Louis Vuitton. There is a luxury in meeting the person who makes the product, of seeing the value of their craft with your own eyes.
Story continues below advertisement
Advertisement
Part of what I do as a shoemaker is preserving knowledge and preserving craft. But it's also about getting people excited about dressing up. There's a practicality to having well-made shoes that you can repair — and there's also romance and nostalgia.
Doing this work affects how you see the world. You become sensitive to art and beauty. You develop a sense of history, time and place.
I'll notice things other people might not notice, like the patina of an older building that's a little bit worn. I'm drawn to these older buildings that bring in a nostalgia of time, place and character, just like a good pair of shoes can.
You can call me old-fashioned, but I think it matters how you present yourself to the world. I'm in the shop most of the time, so I'm not wearing a three-piece suit or anything, but I do pay attention to what's under my apron.
I consider it a daily ritual: Each morning, I put on a pair of classic Oxfords. I take them off when I get home.
I always wear shoes I've made myself.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Yahoo
2 hours ago
- Yahoo
World's Top Cable Maker Sees US Copper Tariff as Opportunity
(Bloomberg) -- The world's biggest maker of copper cable is applauding President Donald Trump's planned 50% tariff on the metal, saying it will bolster the American supply chain, with costs passed on to customers. Why Did Cars Get So Hard to See Out Of? How German Cities Are Rethinking Women's Safety — With Taxis Advocates Fear US Agents Are Using 'Wellness Checks' on Children as a Prelude to Arrests Italy's Prysmian SpA — which last year shelled out $4 billion-plus to buy Texas-based Encore Wire Corp. — is in regular contact with the administration ahead of the measure's implementation on Aug. 1, said Maria Cristina Bifulco, head of investor relations and sustainability. Trump sparked chaos in metals markets last week by announcing the higher-than-expected copper tariff, the latest twist in a tumultuous period for industrial commodities. Since February, when Trump declared 'it's time for copper to come home' and aired the potential for levies, global traders have sent record volumes of the metal to the US to get ahead of the tariff. Like the rest of the industry, Encore and its Milan-listed owner are waiting for details. Still, given the 'spirit is to protect and facilitate local business,' it's expected to be applied to both semi-finished products like cable as well as raw metal, Bifulco said. 'We find the administration very open, very sensitive,' Bifulco said in an interview Monday. 'They understand very well the situation. So in this respect, we are positive.' Prysmian, which churns out about 220,000 metric tons a year of cable at a sprawling facility outside of Dallas, says it stands to benefit from tariffs relative to competitors because it sources a larger part of its copper domestically — from Phoenix-based Freeport-McMoRan Inc. — and is vertically integrated. 'This will further reinforce the leadership of the local players,' she said. 'We are better placed than other players.' Stakeholders in the industry are divided. Some say any meaningful increase in domestic production would take years and require additional incentives given how difficult and expensive it is to build and operate mines and plants in the US. Incumbent producers such as Freeport and Rio Tinto Group stand to benefit from a premium on US-made metal, while analysts warn it will be consumers who will have to pick up the tab. Copper prices in the US have surged ahead of the tariff. So far, Encore has been able to pass those on, although strength of future demand remains to be seen. Eventually, aluminum may be substituted for copper in some applications, Bifulco said. 'Since the final customer is the one paying the increase in prices, you need to make sure to carefully assess demand to make sure that it's resilient enough,' she said. While it's too soon to start replacing what Prysmian does import from Latin America, logically that would come from refined scrap in arrangements similar to what the company has with German copper processor Aurubis AG, she added. Prysmian has leaned on acquisitions for growth after being carved out of tire-maker Pirelli in 2005. The company bought Encore Wire last year to boost its exposure to the low-voltage electrical applications on which data centers largely rely. 'Cables are becoming all of a sudden sexy,' Bifulco said. 'We are at the center of these electrification and digitalization processes and the leader in our space. We are very busy.' (Adds quote in sixth paragraph) 'Our Goal Is to Get Their Money': Inside a Firm Charged With Scamming Writers for Millions Thailand's Changing Cannabis Rules Leave Farmers in a Tough Spot 'The Turbulence Is Brutal': Four Shark Tank Businesses on Tariffs Trump's Cuts Are Making Federal Data Disappear Trade War? No Problem—If You Run a Trade School ©2025 Bloomberg L.P. Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data
Forbes
2 hours ago
- Forbes
The 16 Best Places To Browse Affordable Engagement Rings Right Now
Finding the perfect engagement ring is no easy feat—especially when you're on a tight budget. According to The Knot 's 2024 Jewelry & Engagement study, the average cost of an engagement ring is $5,200 in the United States. But that doesn't mean you can't find a beautiful ring for less. Retailers like Blue Nile, Brilliant Earth and James Allen are brimming with affordable engagement rings. And, now that summer is in full swing, many are hosting seasonal sale events to help you save even more. These are the best places to shop affordable engagement ring styles right now. ILLUSTRATION: FORBES / PHOTOS: RETAILER. For the purpose of this list, we're defining 'affordable' as any ring below that aforementioned $5,200 average. Ahead, we've listed 16 of the best places to shop for affordable engagement rings right now, as well as some specific designs our editors recommend checking out. Blue Nile: Our fashion editor named Blue Nile the best place to buy engagement rings overall. You can filter its settings and diamonds by price to find an affordable option or save up to 30% on select styles now. Brilliant Earth: At Brilliant Earth, settings start at $550 and diamonds start at $300. (You can sort by price to find options within your budget.) You can also use code STUDS to get a pair of lab diamond stud earrings with purchases over $1,000. to get a pair of lab diamond stud earrings with purchases over $1,000. James Allen: Take up to 20% off select lab-grown diamonds for your engagement ring. The offer is only available for loose stones and does not include the setting. Zales: Save up to 70% on a selection of sparkling clearance items and take up to 50% off select styles during its Summer Steals event. Helzberg Diamonds: Helzberg Diamonds is currently offering 15% off sitewide and up to 60% off select pieces during the Diamond Days sale. Etsy: Browse unique rings from a variety of marketplace sellers at up to 75% off. Fred Meyer Jewelers: Get up to 50% off an assortment of ring styles and up to 70% off clearance items. Use code SALE for an additional 10% off select pieces. for an additional 10% off select pieces. Kay Jewelers: Save up to 50% on diamond rings during its Big Summer Sale and take an extra 20% off certain clearance items. Ritani: Sign up for Ritani's email list to save an additional $100 on your next order and get access to exclusive sales. For a limited time, you can also get 30% off lab grown diamonds with code DIAMOND30 and 20% off engagement ring settings. and 20% off engagement ring settings. Vrai: Shop made-to-order and ready-to-ship engagement rings for as low as $2,100. Grown Brilliance: Join Grown Brilliance's email list to unlock $100 off your first purchase of $1,000 or more. Quince: Find high-quality, low-cost options at Quince, including lab-grown and natural diamond rings starting at $900. With Clarity: Customize an engagement ring or opt for ready-to-ship options for as low as $1,200. You can also get up to 25% off select styles right now. Jared Jewelers: Save up to 70% on engagement rings, including a variety of metals, cuts, carat weights and more. Macy's: Browse over 300 engagement ring styles from a wide range of brands—including options priced under $5,000. Angara: Take up to 15% off select engagement rings with natural and lab-grown diamonds, or choose between additional gemstones. Blue Nile is our fashion team's pick for the best place to buy engagement rings overall. It offers a vast selection of styles—including customizable designs—and helpful assistance from virtual advisors. The brand's overall accessibility and customer service make it an easy favorite. This understated ring makes your diamond the center of attention (as it should be). Choose from six metal types, and complete the piece with your diamond of choice from Blue Nile's selection of gorgeous lab grown designs. Just keep in mind: The price of the diamond will vary based on factors like style and size. Brilliant Earth specializes in customizable engagement rings, with setting options starting at $550 and diamonds starting at $300. If you'd prefer a ready-to-ship design, there are options priced from $1,890. The retailer carries both lab-grown and natural diamonds, but its most affordable styles feature lab-grown stones. Right now, code STUDS will also get you a free pair of lab diamond stud earrings with purchases over $1,000. At $2,390, this is one of Brilliant Earth's most affordable ready-to-ship designs. Choose between a white gold or yellow gold setting. You can also opt for a larger center stone if you're willing to pay a bit more—the pictured option has a total carat weight of one carat. If you're seeking a more traditional ring, check out James Allen. While the designer offers an impressive selection of styles—including modern minimalist pieces—it specializes in timeless, vintage-inspired designs that suit just about any budget. With its current sale, you can save up to 20% on select lab-grown diamonds for your engagement ring. This elegant pear-shaped ring from James Allen has a 1.57-carat lab-grown stone on a 14k white gold band. You also get limited lifetime warranty included for free with this ring. Zales For sheer variety, our fashion editors recommend Zales. The brand is a household name and carries thousands of styles, many of which are fully customizable. It's currently offering up to 70% off select clearance styles. If you're looking for a ring that really sparkles, this emerald diamond has a 2-carat total weight, primarily made up of its 1.5-carat center stone. The additional components that surround the center stone are trapezoid-shaped and tapered baguette-cut lab-grown diamonds. Helzberg Diamonds Helzberg Diamonds has been making rings since 1915, so you know its styles are reliable. Plus, it adheres to the Kimberley Process, American Gem Society and World Diamond Council standards—all ethical standards for sourcing diamonds and metals. The store is currently offering 15% off sitewide and up to 60% off select diamond styles during the Diamond Days sale. This stunning design features a sparkling oval-shaped diamond, flanked by decorative diamonds on either side, on a 14k white gold band. The entire ring has a 1 ctw count and is available in yellow and rose gold bands as well. Etsy For those unfamiliar, Etsy is an online marketplace that hosts individual sellers. If you want a wide array of unique designs—including some vintage options—it's an excellent place to start your search. Just keep in mind: You'll have to do a little more legwork than at a curated jeweler, and it may be more difficult to verify the source of your diamond. A gorgeous, 5-carat IGI-certified lab-grown diamond is the star of this ring. However, on the hidden halo setting, you'll find additional diamonds for extra glamour. The ring is made to order, with options of 14k white, yellow or rose gold for the band. GrownRadiance has earned a Star Seller rating from Etsy, denoting that the designer has received consistent five-star reviews, ships quickly and provides quality customer service. Fred Meyer Jewelry This Portland-based jeweler has hundreds of affordable engagement ring designs to choose from, all of which adhere to responsibly mined and produced jewelry practices. Your ring is also covered by a Lifetime Jewelry Care Program that includes cleaning and routine maintenance, as well as repairs and replacements. While shopping through dozens of discounted engagement rings, you can also get an additional 10% off clearance jewelry with code SALE. Fred Meyer Jewelry If you already know you want a white gold band, this timeless ring has a great discount right now. The design features the aforementioned 14k white gold band and a 1.5 carat princess cut lab-grown diamond. The stone is GSI-certified, ensuring the diamond is of high quality and value. Kay Jewelers The classic jewelry brand is known for more than its catchy jingle. Kay Jewelers offers a wide selection of rings to suit a variety of budgets and preferences. Plus, all of its diamonds, precious metals and gems are responsibly sourced and come backed by a lifetime guarantee. This 1.5-carat marquise lab-grown diamond sits on 14K white gold setting. Although the sparkly center stone steals most of the attention, there are smaller details that are equally as captivating. This includes the round and marquise-cut diamonds that surround the diamond across the band. Take note: the band is only available in 14k white gold at the moment, but it's ready to ship immediately. Ritani Whether you're looking for a simple design or want a more elaborate look to your engagement ring, Ritani has you covered. Right now, you can customize your diamond or lab-grown diamond ring for as low as $1,600. The retailer has countless affordable rings, but you can increase your savings by joining Ritani's email list to secure $100 off your order. Take up to 30% off lab-grown diamonds and up to 40% off wedding rings during its current flash sale. The 'Toi et moi' or 'you and me' engagement ring style is the perfect way to symbolize your upcoming marriage due to its unique two-stone design. Personalize the ring by selecting the second stones shape, metal and carat size. The current offer above includes a .18-carat pear diamond. Depending on your preferences, the price of the ring may increase. Vrai Our editors named Vrai the best place to purchase lab-grown diamond engagement rings thanks to its sustainable practices, high-quality stones and sophisticated designs. The retailer offers made-to-order and ready-to-ship engagement rings as low as $2,100. This simple ring has a 1.63-carat lab-grown center diamond secured by a 14k yellow gold band. A hidden halo holds even more handset pavé diamonds, so it shines from all angles. To maintain the look and feel of the ring, it also comes with Vrai's care package, which includes warranty, annual shine service and complimentary resizing. Grown Brilliance Our editors love Grown Brilliance because of its Truly Custom program—you send in inspiration images, and a jeweler will create a one-of-a-kind piece for you. But it also offers plenty of high-quality, pre-designed engagement rings that are on the affordable end of the spectrum. Emerald cuts rose in popularity during the Art Deco era, and they appear to be making a comeback. This stunning, vintage-inspired design combines intricate details and shapes to create a cohesive work of art. The ring features a lab-grown emerald diamond at its center, accompanied by additional stones that build upon it, as well as the band itself. Although you can't customize its shape, you can choose from white gold, yellow gold, rose gold and platinum bands. Quince Our team named Quince the best retailer for affordable engagement rings. 'Its pieces are stunning and well made,' says deputy editor Kari Molvar, who is a certified gem expert. The site offers both high-quality lab-grown and natural diamond rings—without the luxury price point. At Quince, find timeless and classic stones (including the setting) for as low as $900. This carefully sourced and crafted engagement ring is a true showstopper. At its center sits a round lab-grown diamond, surrounded by a halo of smaller stones that amplify its shine from every angle. The ring is available in 15 sizes, three carat weights and three metal options. With Clarity Another editor- and expert-approved engagement ring site is With Clarity, a retailer that allows you to build your ring or choose from its ready-made natural or lab-grown styles. Right now, you can shop rings for as low as $1,200 and also get up to 25% off select styles. With your purchase, you'll receive a free diamond set (on orders $1,000+) or a free diamond necklace (on orders $3,000+). For those who want a slim band with subtle accents, this With Clarity engagement ring is an excellent choice. The ring shown above features 14K yellow gold and a 2-carat lab-grown diamond with tiny, round stones set alongside it. However, if you prefer a different carat weight, diamond shape or metal, you can customize it to your liking. You can also add a meaningful touch to the band by personalizing it with 15 characters. Jared Jewelers This tried-and-true jewelry brand is renowned for offering a diverse selection of pieces suitable for all occasions, including engagements. Get up to 70% off select clearance styles and 20% off storewide. You can shop for premade options, customizable rings or designer rings from Vera Wang VOW, Chosen, J'Lure and more. Although Jared Jewelers has countless options, this classic, ready-to-ship design is available for under $900. Reviewers say that this simple ring is a perfect option because it's stunning without being overly expensive. Macy's The popular retailer sells a variety of jewelry pieces, including hundreds of engagement rings from brands like Badgley Mischka and Suzy Levian New York, with plenty of options priced below $5,000. You can also maximize your savings by taking advantage of the best Macy's promo codes right now. This modern engagement ring features round Moissanite stones and a knife-edge design—a raised ridge that runs along the band. After purchase, it can be registered under Macy's WorryNoMore Jewelry and Watch Protection program, which covers future services such as resizing, resetting and more. The ring is also covered by Charles & Colvard's lifetime warranty, a benefit that protects optical properties and physical integrity. Angara Angara is an online jewelry brand that offers a wide selection of cuts, gemstones and metals to help you discover your ideal engagement ring. Browse hundreds of options to find your personal style, including vintage-inspired designs and three-stone settings. For a limited time, you can also score up to 15% off select styles. This modern take on a classic style showcases a pear-shaped diamond placed in a bezel setting. The ring pictured above is a 2-carat lab-grown diamond with a 14K gold band and F-G quality. If you wish to make alterations, the ring is available in five gemstone qualities, four colors, 23 sizes and comes with free personalized engraving. What Is A Reasonable Engagement Ring Price? A reasonable engagement ring price largely depends on your budget. You should factor in the cost of the ring itself, taxes, insurance and any personalization details. However, a quality diamond paired with its setting typically starts at around $2,000 and increases from there. Still, there are plenty of beautiful rings available that are less expensive than the average ring price. What Is The Most Affordable Engagement Ring Site? There are a handful of engagement ring websites that offer options to meet most budgeting needs and style preferences. After assessing multiple factors, our team named Quince as the site with the best affordable engagement rings. Quince offers high-quality rings at a low cost, including both lab-grown and natural diamonds, and has a generous return window. How Can You Shop For Affordable Engagement Rings On A Budget? When shopping for an affordable engagement ring, it's essential to set a budget for yourself before you start looking. To maximize your spending, consider purchasing a lab-grown diamond, as these tend to be more cost-effective than mined diamonds. Characteristics and qualities to consider when looking at natural diamonds include the Four C's (cut, color, clarity and carat weight), certifications, metals and diamond setting. What Is The Cheapest Month To Buy An Engagement Ring? You can find discounts on engagement rings throughout the year, but certain months typically offer better deals than others. For example, jewelry sales tend to slow down at the end of summer, making it a good time to score savings during this quieter shopping period. The holiday season—particularly November and December—often brings a wave of promotions to attract gift-givers. Following the holidays, January is also considered a slow month for jewelry retailers, so you may see additional sales aimed at boosting post-holiday purchases.
Yahoo
3 hours ago
- Yahoo
Diageo calls tequila purity allegation 'baseless' as US lawsuit proceeds
(Reuters) -Diageo on Monday filed an initial response to a lawsuit accusing the spirits giant of misleading U.S. consumers about the purity of some of its popular tequila brands, calling the claim "baseless". The company, which also owns whisky brands such as Johnnie Walker, said in the filing the complaint provides no evidence to support the claim that its Casamigos and Don Julio tequilas are not "100% agave". All bottled tequilas of these brands labeled as "100% agave" are made from 100% Blue Weber agave and undergo a rigorous production and independent, multi-step certification process, the company said. One of the lawyers for the plaintiffs, Steve Berman of Hagens Berman Sobol Shapiro, said he does not have a response yet, while Robert Tolchin of The Berkman Law Office did not immediately respond to a Reuters request for comment. In May, a class action filed in federal court in Brooklyn accused the company of falsely advertising Casamigos and Don Julio tequilas as "100% agave," claiming they contained other alcohols and failed to meet U.S. or Mexican standards for pure tequila. Two similar lawsuits were filed against Diageo in California and Florida in the same month, with one alleging that some versions of Casamigos and Don Julio contained between 33% and 42% agave-derived ethanol, citing carbon isotope testing commissioned by the plaintiff. Diageo has called the claims "outrageous and categorically false", adding it will "vigorously defend" the quality of its tequilas in court. The lawsuits highlight a broader industry dispute over tequila purity, with "additive-free" claims prompting pushback from Mexico's Tequila Regulatory Council (CRT). The CRT has warned some producers using the "additive-free" label that their export licenses could be revoked unless the claim is removed from packaging and marketing, according to a copy of one letter sent to a brand and seen by Reuters. The CRT called the "additive-free" label misleading, noting that tequila can legally contain additives such as colorants and sweeteners up to 75 grams per liter of sugars or similar ingredients, according to official Mexican regulations. Sign in to access your portfolio
