Latest news with #shoemaking
Washington Post
2 days ago
- Business
- Washington Post
‘The opposite of fast fashion': The romance of a well-made shoe
You're reading Shifts, an illustrated history of the future of work. Sign up to get it in your inbox. When Francis Waplinger started making his own footwear in the mid-2000s, the business of bespoke shoemaking was virtually obsolete in the United States. So he journeyed to Italy, where the craft has been passed down for generations. He now runs a workshop in Brooklyn, where he has plenty of customers — thanks, in part, to a resurgence in classic menswear. I grew up playing soccer and skateboarding, so I was always interested in the newest skate shoes or soccer cleats. I would buy all-black sneakers and airbrush them different colors. I took a couple of shoemaking classes in my early 20s, which were my introduction to more traditional shoe construction. I was just out of college, working at a high-end bed-and-breakfast. I started wearing these shoes that I'd made. I felt a little more confident. More grown-up. Story continues below advertisement Advertisement I became obsessed with finding a way to make beautiful shoes. I started looking for apprenticeships in the United States, but aside from Western bootmaking, there was no apprenticing system, and not even the YouTube videos that we have today. I ended up traveling through Europe with my girlfriend, just searching for someone who could teach me. But things didn't go according to plan. Eventually we ended up in Florence, where I learned everything I know today about shoemaking. For the first two years, I studied in a shoemaking school under a man named Angelo Imperatrice. Angelo had been making shoes since he was 14 years old, living in southern Italy, and he came to Florence when he was in his 20s. He was so full of energy, always with a twinkle in his eye. After that, I worked in the shop of a well-known shoemaker named Roberto Ugolini. His right-hand man, Robertino, also taught me a lot while I was in the shop. Like Angelo, Roberto came from a long line of shoemakers. He was working in the family shoe repair shop when he decided he wanted to learn the craft of bespoke shoemaking. Story continues below advertisement Advertisement Roberto was very direct, but he balanced it out with a sense of humor. When we came back to the United States in 2015, I started my own business in Southampton, New York. We moved to Brooklyn in 2020. It happened to be a time when there was a bit of a renaissance in artisanal products. People were tired of getting junk, tired of fast fashion. What I do is the opposite of fast fashion. Every pair of shoes takes at least 80 hours to make. It can be 16 months from when an order is placed that the customer receives their shoes. My older clients might be businessmen who have always dressed this way. But a lot of the younger ones are part of this sort of gentlemen subculture. They want to dress up and dress more classically. Most of my customers find me through word of mouth. They're interested in luxury, but not pop luxury such as Chanel or Louis Vuitton. There is a luxury in meeting the person who makes the product, of seeing the value of their craft with your own eyes. Story continues below advertisement Advertisement Part of what I do as a shoemaker is preserving knowledge and preserving craft. But it's also about getting people excited about dressing up. There's a practicality to having well-made shoes that you can repair — and there's also romance and nostalgia. Doing this work affects how you see the world. You become sensitive to art and beauty. You develop a sense of history, time and place. I'll notice things other people might not notice, like the patina of an older building that's a little bit worn. I'm drawn to these older buildings that bring in a nostalgia of time, place and character, just like a good pair of shoes can. You can call me old-fashioned, but I think it matters how you present yourself to the world. I'm in the shop most of the time, so I'm not wearing a three-piece suit or anything, but I do pay attention to what's under my apron. I consider it a daily ritual: Each morning, I put on a pair of classic Oxfords. I take them off when I get home. I always wear shoes I've made myself.
CNA
6 days ago
- Business
- CNA
Trained by Japan's best for nearly a decade, this Singaporean now handcrafts bespoke shoes under his own label
When Tor Cheng Yao moved to London to study economics in 2012, he didn't expect to fall in love with shoes. Like many Singaporean students overseas, his time at University College London was meant to set him on a path toward a conventional career – perhaps in banking, consulting, or the civil service. Instead, it led him down an unorthodox road paved with calf leather, cobbler's tools and a growing obsession with fine, hand-welted footwear. 'I was just browsing online and came across blogs like The Shoe Snob,' he recalled. 'That's when I realised you could actually restore shoes. In Singapore, we usually just throw them out.' With its centuries-old tradition of bespoke shoemaking and heritage brands like Church's and Joseph Cheaney & Sons, London offered Tor a front-row seat to the craftsmanship and culture behind classic British footwear. Eventually, he ventured east to Tokyo, where he trained under some of Japan's most revered shoemakers. After nearly a decade honing his skills overseas, the 34-year-old returned to Singapore earlier this year to launch Fumu, a bespoke men's footwear label that applies traditional hand-welted shoemaking techniques to modern, wearable styles. The brand retails online, and Tor works out of a shared studio in Tai Seng, where customers can book appointments to be fitted and discuss their shoes in person. AN UNCONVENTIONAL PATH 'Like my peers, I did apply to jobs at investment banks, etc,' he admitted with a laugh. 'But I was never really serious about it, and I think the banks knew my heart wasn't in it.' Instead, it was in shoes – or more precisely, in the quiet, intricate art of making them. What began as a curiosity sparked by internet browsing evolved into a deep interest in traditional shoemaking methods, particularly Goodyear-welted construction. 'The idea that you could repair and restore a shoe rather than throw it out really resonated with me,' he shared. Working part-time at heritage shoemaker Joseph Cheaney & Sons, Tor immersed himself in the arcane world of fine British footwear. He learned how to polish leather to a mirror shine, evaluate fit, and what separated a well-made shoe from a merely good-looking one. On a student budget, he even invested in a few classic pairs – not just to wear, but to study. It wasn't long before he wanted to try making his own. He approached several of the capital's revered bespoke houses, including Foster & Son, but was turned away. 'To even get in, you need to already know how to make a pair of shoes. They don't teach beginners,' said Tor. Workshops for casual learners were prohibitively expensive, so he searched further afield. During summer breaks, he took short shoemaking courses at (Textile and Fashion Industry Training Centre) in Singapore. Through online research, he also found schools in Italy and Japan that offered proper training. Then, fate intervened. One day, a Japanese distributor for Cheaney visited the shop where Tor worked. On a whim, he asked if he could go to Japan and learn shoemaking. The distributor said yes – and to contact him after graduation. And so, in 2016, Tor and his girlfriend (now wife) relocated to Tokyo. There, he worked full-time for Watanabe, a trading company and retail outfit known for its British luxury imports, while attending shoemaking classes once a week at The Shoemaker's Class, a school run by celebrated artisan Noriyuki Misawa. Misawa is known for blending traditional techniques with sculptural innovation – his shoes have been exhibited in galleries, and worn by celebrities such as Adrien Brody. Under his guidance, Tor built six pairs of shoes from scratch, starting with a classic brown Oxford. The process was painstaking – his first pair took six months. 'It was actually very poorly done,' he laughed. 'You can see holes in the sole.' His sixth creation filled him with pride – until he brought it to Yohei Fukuda, one of Japan's most respected bespoke shoemakers. The comparison was humbling. 'I was feeling good about them,' said Tor. 'Then I saw Fukuda's shoes next to mine, and it was clear: I wasn't ready to sell anything yet.' Rather than discouragement, this became a turning point. Fukuda connected him with master craftsman Kiyo Udagawa, who refined Tor's technique, and later invited him to work part-time in his own atelier. THE PHILOSOPHY OF IMPERMANENCE 'In Japan, they'll spend hours refining a curve, reworking a stitch, even if no one else will ever notice. And they do it not because of the customer, but because of their own standard,' shared Tor. This pursuit of perfection, combined with kaizen – the Japanese philosophy of continuous improvement – shaped Tor's outlook not just on shoemaking, but on life itself. It taught him to embrace discipline while remaining grounded in the present; to keep refining, while accepting that nothing is ever truly permanent. This philosophy is stitched into every pair of Fumu shoes through a hidden sakura motif beneath the tongue. 'It reflects the transience of nature and time,' Tor explained. 'Nothing lasts forever. We must cherish every moment, and live in the present.' View this post on Instagram A post shared by Thatshoeotaku (@thatshoeotaku) The sentiment is personal too. His second and third pairs ever made were matching wedding shoes for himself and his wife. "I wasn't a great artisan back then," he grinned, "but I couldn't imagine wearing shoes made by someone else on my big day." Even now, he wears mostly his own creations. 'Wouldn't it be strange for a shoemaker to wear other brands?' he quipped. BALANCING ART AND COMMERCE After nearly a decade abroad, Tor returned to Singapore earlier this year to launch Fumu – Japanese for 'to step' – a bespoke men's footwear label that applies traditional hand-welted techniques to modern, wearable styles. A bespoke pair of Fumu shoes takes approximately 130 hours to make. The process begins with a personalised consultation, during which clients discuss their preferences – from shoe style and leather types to colour, construction and finishing details. Tor then takes precise measurements of each foot and carves a personalised wooden last – a three-dimensional form that replicates the shape of the wearer's foot – and develops a custom pattern. A trial fitting follows, allowing for further refinement to ensure a perfect fit. Only after all adjustments are made does he begin crafting the final pair. It's a meticulous journey that can take anywhere from eight to 12 months, and costs upwards of S$6,000. As fulfilling as it is to craft shoes entirely by hand, Tor is pragmatic about commercial realities. 'I don't think I could support my family that way,' said the father to a five-year-old son. Enter the Travellers Collection, made-to-order Japanese and Italian calf leather sneakers that bring elements of traditional craftsmanship to a more accessible format. Unlike bespoke shoes, made-to-order pairs follow standard sizing, but are still individually produced with premium materials and careful hand-finishing. Priced at S$798 and requiring around 16 hours of work, they offer a taste of artisanal quality without the bespoke price tag. The collection's name is intentional. 'I want to inspire people to step out of their comfort zone,' Tor explained. 'In Singapore, we're taught to follow a certain path: Study hard, get a good job. But my time in Japan showed me there are other ways to live. That you can create your own path.' THE JOURNEY CONTINUES Now based in a shared studio in Tai Seng, Tor handcrafts each pair of Fumu shoes himself. His long-term goal is to build a small, sustainable shoemaking industry in Singapore – one that offers opportunities to skilled artisans who might not fit into the country's high-tech, degree-focused economy. In the meantime, he's focused on telling stories through shoes. "When I complete a pair, it represents my journey as a shoemaker," he reflected. "But the shoe isn't done yet. It's only complete when someone puts it on and goes on a journey of their own." Whether that journey leads to a wedding, a career change, or a long-awaited adventure, Tor hopes that his shoes will be there for the wearer when they decide to take that crucial step forward – with intention, purpose, and the knowledge that some things are worth investing in for the long haul.
Yahoo
11-06-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
King Charles' shoemaker awarded royal warrant
A Northamptonshire-based shoemaker which made the shoes King Charles III wore at his Coronation has received a royal warrant. Gaziano and Girling, based in Kettering, also provided a number of bespoke shoes to the King, who made an official visit to the firm's factory in 2019. The warrants were granted as a mark of recognition to people or companies who have regularly supplied goods or services to the royal household. Dean Girling, who founded the business with Tony Gaziano, said it was "an honour" to be able to display the royal crest on its products. Shoemaking has been taking place in Northamptonshire for hundreds of years, but Gaziano and Girling was founded in a garage in 2006. It specialised in bespoke shoes, which can range in price from £2,500 up to £20,000 a pair, with its products particularly popular with customers in the United States and Asia. The company said each pair of shoes it made involved 96 hours of labour to create, with the King's shoes for his 2023 Coronation costing about £3,500. According to the royal family, there were currently more than 800 royal warrant holders. Mr Girling said the King had been "very interested" in how shoes were made during his 2019 visit and displayed a real interest in "keeping the craft alive". He said: "You have to be seen to be offering a product for five years before you can apply for it [a royal warrant]. Now we're able to put the full crest up and put it on our product stationery. "We're still relatively new kids on the block. People said we were crazy for setting up our business in 2006, but here we are, and we're still going strong." Chelise Porter, an assistant supervisor who has been with the firm for 11 years, said: "We're all really proud about it [the royal warrant]. "Just to be recognised in this way is an honour really. We all work really hard to make the best shoes that we can." Follow Northamptonshire news on BBC Sounds, Facebook, Instagram and X. 'Amazing' to make shoes for King's 'delicate' feet Gaziano & Girling
BBC News
11-06-2025
- Business
- BBC News
King Charles' Kettering shoemaker awarded royal warrant
A Northamptonshire-based shoemaker which made the shoes King Charles III wore at his Coronation has received a royal and Girling, based in Kettering, also provided a number of bespoke shoes to the King, who made an official visit to the firm's factory in warrants were granted as a mark of recognition to people or companies who have regularly supplied goods or services to the royal Girling, who founded the business with Tony Gaziano, said it was "an honour" to be able to display the royal crest on its products. Shoemaking has been taking place in Northamptonshire for hundreds of years, but Gaziano and Girling was founded in a garage in specialised in bespoke shoes, which can range in price from £2,500 up to £20,000 a pair, with its products particularly popular with customers in the United States and company said each pair of shoes it made involved 96 hours of labour to create, with the King's shoes for his 2023 Coronation costing about £3,500. According to the royal family, there were currently more than 800 royal warrant Girling said the King had been "very interested" in how shoes were made during his 2019 visit and displayed a real interest in "keeping the craft alive".He said: "You have to be seen to be offering a product for five years before you can apply for it [a royal warrant]. Now we're able to put the full crest up and put it on our product stationery."We're still relatively new kids on the block. People said we were crazy for setting up our business in 2006, but here we are, and we're still going strong." Chelise Porter, an assistant supervisor who has been with the firm for 11 years, said: "We're all really proud about it [the royal warrant]."Just to be recognised in this way is an honour really. We all work really hard to make the best shoes that we can." Follow Northamptonshire news on BBC Sounds, Facebook, Instagram and X.
Forbes
01-06-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Brett Viberg On The Craft, Heritage, And Evolution Of Viberg Boots
Viberg campaign Canadian bootmakers since 1931, Viberg has built a reputation for offering handcrafted boots that last. Established in 1931 by Ed Viberg, originally the brand made work boots for loggers in British Columbia, and now they're loved not only by loggers, but by those who appreciate design, heritage, and well crafted footwear; cue their famous Service Boot, which draws inspiration from military designs, complete with rugged leathers — break them in, and then they're grab-and-go-type boots for life. Viberg campaign Expanding the offering, in recent years Viberg has included suede sneakers, slippers, and casual styles into the collection, but still anchored by their beloved boots. At the helm of the family-run company is owner, Brett Viberg, and he talks tradition, design, and the evolution of the brand. Viberg is a family-owned Canadian company that makes the high quality, utilitarian footwear that honors its 90 year heritage of expert craftsmanship and commitment to excellence in shoemaking. Our aesthetic is functional refinement - meaning everything we make is rooted in traditional shoemaking techniques but fine-tuned to with modern proportions, minimal branding, using the best materials available. Viberg campaign As a family-owned business since 1931, our decisions are made for the long term. There's an inherent continuity and set of inherited values that informs everything we do but it's not tradition just for tradition's sake. We are still guided by a curiosity of the craft and a collective interest in wanting to learn and become better. By understanding that maintaining tradition and embracing modernity is not zero sum. We constantly evaluate what needs to change and what doesn't. Core methods like Stitchdown Constructions don't need to be improved upon, but how these methods are implemented and interpreted – whether it's a new style or with new materials – is always something we are looking to refine. Viberg campaign We take an inside-out approach that starts with function and construction. How it fits and how the material behaves before focusing on how it looks. From there we refine the aesthetics to ensure that it's both purposeful and timeless. All of our leathers are carefully selected from the finest tanneries in the world for their exceptional quality and functional capability. We source leathers that have character and bring depth to the product but are also durable so that they age well and maintain their structure. Viberg campaign Our customers value uncompromising quality and maintain discretion with what they spend their money on. A collector's mindset. We've responded by making smaller batches of product with the highest level of craftsmanship at every step. Everything we make is the product of extensive research, resulting in fine details synonymous with a high-quality luxury product. Viberg campaign
