'Sephora kids' trend prompts bill to ban kids from purchasing makeup (again). Here's why.
The bill follows the ongoing "Sephora kids" trend, in which young people, specifically preteens, purchase and use makeup and skincare products, often with ingredients designed for adults, which can damage the skin's barrier. These kids, usually girls, have been thrust into the spotlight for showcasing their product "hauls" and routines on social media, namely TikTok.
The California bill was introduced in February by Assemblyman Alex Lee, who first brought the bill to California's legislative floor in 2024. The first iteration bill, which would have prohibited children younger than 13 from purchasing anti-aging products, did not pass. Lee introduced it again this year with an even wider age restriction.
Here's what to know about California's bill and what professionals have to say about the harms of children participating in multi-step skincare routines.
If passed, the bill − AB 728 − would make it illegal for businesses to sell anti-aging skincare products to individuals under the age of 18 in the state of California. Specifically, these products include those that contain:
Vitamin A and its byproducts, including retinoids and retinol
Alpha hydroxy acid, including glycolic acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and citric acid
If a seller is unsure of the age of the a customer purchasing an anti-aging product that contains one of the above ingredients, they may ask to verify the customer's age, the bill states.
This type of legislation wouldn't be the first of its kind. In California, you have to be both 21 to purchase alcohol and tobacco products.
The bill introduced last year − AB 2941 − made it through the first necessary committee but then died at the state's finance committee, Lee said. It banned the same ingredients, vitamin A and alpha hydroxy acid, but for children under the age of 13. Dermatologists and parents are concerned kids could be harming their skin in attempt to stay up with impossible beauty standards.
Alpha hydroxy acid, for example, is marketed to smooth wrinkles, improve skin texture and tone and cleanse pores. The acid works by dissolving the bonds between dead skin cells on the surface, which in turns promotes cell turnover. This tends to result in the "shedding" of skin, according to the FDA.
Though alpha hydroxy acid can be used to improve skin firmness and elasticity, skin shedding can also increase the skin's sensitivity, especially to sunlight, according to a 2018 report published in the peer-reviewed journal Molecules. This can result in "serious skin damage."
Vitamin A, on the other hand, hasn't been proven to treat skin conditions like acne, dry skin or winkles, the Mayo Clinic says. Vitamin A is more effective when consumed through dietary sources, including animal products like eggs, dairy products and fish, and plants like orange and yellow fruits and vegetables, and leafy green vegetables.
"Now, it's pretty ridiculous that children are worried about wrinkles and fine lines and buying these products, but it turns out these products can also have a long-term irreversible damage and harm to children," Lee said.
Marisa Garshick is a dermatologist at MDCS Dermatology: Medical Dermatology and Cosmetic Surgery in New York and a mother to a 10-year-old daughter, who is interested in trendy products and routines.
Garshick said she understands it can be hard to say "no," when a child wants the popular new cleanser or exfoliant, but young skin is more sensitive because it hasn't fully developed.
"The things where we start to worry, in terms of sort of wrecking more havoc on the skin or causing more irritation, are these active ingredients like retinol, vitamin C or exfoliating acids," she said. "Within this group of people with sensitive skin, those types of ingredients may cause redness, dryness, flaking, irritation. It can maybe disrupt the skin barrier, which actually makes the skin more sensitive to other things as well."
Retinol, a form of vitamin A, for example, is an active ingredient because it stimulates cells production. It also exfoliates the skin and increases collagen production, which, according to the Cleveland Clinic, can reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
While young people don't typically need products with active ingredients, Garshick said that are some caveats. For example, if Garshick is working with a teen who is struggling with acne, she may prescribe a product with active ingredients like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid.
"Even though there's definitely subgroups where we would say to avoid certain things, there may be situations where it is actually recommended," Garshick said. "In those settings, we don't necessarily want people to be fearful of using these products."
Young girls having an interest in beauty products isn't a new trend.
"When I was young, it was Lip Smackers. These were heavily-fragranced lip balms that smelled like Coca-Cola or Orange Crush," Shannon Humphrey, clinical associate professor in the University of British Columbia's Department of Dermatology and Skin Science, said.
Today though, young people are further inodiated with what their peers, and those they look up to, are using and promoting on social media.
Videos a part of the "Sephora kids" trend, which gained traction in early 2024, feature young girls swiftly moving around Sephora aisles, shopping baskets in tow, full of beauty products. Beauty stores have been likened to elementary schools, as 10-year-olds run amok, some caught treating employees poorly or destroying displays.
While these chaotic videos of preteens taking over Sephora have come to represent how young girls experience the beauty industry, not all are interested in what's popular on TikTok.
Humphrey said her 12-year-old daughter Viv doesn't have social media, so she mostly has learned about skincare products and routines through her friends at school and of course, her mother. Humphrey said Viv tends to use a light cleanser and moisturizer, sunscreen and lip gloss.
"I asked her about it and without missing a beat, she said it made her feel good and that she loved talking with her friends about what kind of lip gloss they used and what their favorite sunscreen or moisturizer was," Humphrey said on why Viv enjoys skincare products. "It was really a social response. It wasn't one about beauty."
Above and beyond though, Humphrey said every child is different and should be considered as such when it comes to skincare.
Not all skincare products are off the table.
Garshick said across the board, no matter the age, she recommends that everyone wash their face once a day and use a simple moisturizer and sunscreen. Fragrance sprays and lip balms are also okay for younger folks.
"I'd say keep it simple," Humphrey added. "You don't have to break the bank. You don't have to get what's trending on Instagram. There are some excellent cleansers and moisturizers available from the drugstore."
For preteens and teens who have more specialized concerns, like acne, Garshick encouraged a visit to a dermatologist to create a specialized care plan.
Contributing: Katie Camero
Greta Cross is a national trending reporter at USA TODAY. Follow her on X and Instagram @gretalcross. Story idea? Email her at gcross@usatoday.com.
This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: California aims to ban anti-aging products for minors, 'Sephora kids'
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