Some of S.F.'s most coveted handmade pasta comes from this one-woman operation
I don't get to eat dinner at home too often, and when I do, I'm usually reaching for something low-lift to supplement leftovers. Now in rotation is frozen pasta from Sfoglia Club, the one-woman micro-batch pasta company from Tanaya Joshi. A product designer by day, she folds intricate filled pastas by night and sells them via Hotplate. The drop model will be familiar to any sneakerhead, and her batches of balanzoni and tortelli sell out quickly. I got my hands on a couple boxes of sachetti — Joshi's version kind of look like hamentaschen but with four sides instead of three — stuffed with ricotta, corn and chives. The filling is very delicate; I've been saucing the sachetti ($20 per box) with butter, Calabrian chile and Parmesan so as not to overpower it.
I didn't intend for this week's installment to be What I've Been Eating, Corn Edition, but facts are facts: Restaurants are exulting in corn season, and I am happily along for the ride. At Lunette in the Ferry Building, chef Nite Yun stir-fries fresh kernels with coconut milk, chicken schmaltz, dried shrimp and scallions. Yun modestly told me that the wok does all the work — the corn takes on just a touch of char — to which I say, 'Yeah, right.' It's a glorious summer side dish that I can't wait to eat again.
Lunette. Ferry Building, 1, Suite 33/47, San Francisco. lunettecambodia.com
Over in Emeryville, Good to Eat also has a seasonal sweet corn special. For $14, you get two half-ears of corn, skewered and grilled. The singed cobs are then lacquered with shacha, a Taiwanese barbecue sauce, and coated in sesame seeds. If 'barbecue sauce' conjures up memories of sticky-sweet Kansas City ribs or tangy, vinegary Carolina pulled pork, shacha is something else entirely — savory and briny thanks to dried shellfish.
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San Francisco Chronicle
16 hours ago
- San Francisco Chronicle
Some of S.F.'s most coveted handmade pasta comes from this one-woman operation
Each week, critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan shares some of her favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn't find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for her free newsletter, Bite Curious. I don't get to eat dinner at home too often, and when I do, I'm usually reaching for something low-lift to supplement leftovers. Now in rotation is frozen pasta from Sfoglia Club, the one-woman micro-batch pasta company from Tanaya Joshi. A product designer by day, she folds intricate filled pastas by night and sells them via Hotplate. The drop model will be familiar to any sneakerhead, and her batches of balanzoni and tortelli sell out quickly. I got my hands on a couple boxes of sachetti — Joshi's version kind of look like hamentaschen but with four sides instead of three — stuffed with ricotta, corn and chives. The filling is very delicate; I've been saucing the sachetti ($20 per box) with butter, Calabrian chile and Parmesan so as not to overpower it. I didn't intend for this week's installment to be What I've Been Eating, Corn Edition, but facts are facts: Restaurants are exulting in corn season, and I am happily along for the ride. At Lunette in the Ferry Building, chef Nite Yun stir-fries fresh kernels with coconut milk, chicken schmaltz, dried shrimp and scallions. Yun modestly told me that the wok does all the work — the corn takes on just a touch of char — to which I say, 'Yeah, right.' It's a glorious summer side dish that I can't wait to eat again. Lunette. Ferry Building, 1, Suite 33/47, San Francisco. Over in Emeryville, Good to Eat also has a seasonal sweet corn special. For $14, you get two half-ears of corn, skewered and grilled. The singed cobs are then lacquered with shacha, a Taiwanese barbecue sauce, and coated in sesame seeds. If 'barbecue sauce' conjures up memories of sticky-sweet Kansas City ribs or tangy, vinegary Carolina pulled pork, shacha is something else entirely — savory and briny thanks to dried shellfish.
Eater
2 days ago
- Eater
The Biggest Los Angeles Restaurant Openings in July 2025
Los Angeles is no stranger to restaurant openings, whether splashy openings in iconic buildings helmed by big-name chefs, a humble neighborhood spot, or a pop-up leaping into a permanent space. Consider this monthly rundown a go-to guide for the newest and boldest debuts across the Southland. Mala popcorn chicken from Blue Magpie. Charlene Yang Blue Magpie — Arcadia Blue Magpie, Arcadia's modern restaurant named after the Taiwan's national bird, opened June 11. It's a collaborative effort between chef Leo Lo and local entrepreneur Kevin Tang, who watched the fine dining Taiwanese restaurants in the area diminish over the years. Blue Magpie's weekend brunch menu draws from Taiwanese street food, but leans upscale while reworking traditional Taiwanese dishes with a contemporary twist. The Napa casserole, torched tableside, layers sakura shrimp, dried scallops, and kurobuta pork under bubbling cheese. Blocks away from the Santa Anita Park racetrack, the modern 3,500-square-foot restaurant features chandeliers with nods to the Formosan blue magpie bird throughout the design, with two private dining rooms. Force of Nature founder, Leena Culhane. Ashley Randall Photography Only The Wild Ones and Forces of Nature — Venice Two restaurant veterans opened Venice's newest hotspots inside a charming converted bungalow in late June. Heather Tierney (Butcher's Daughter) opened the doors for her new restaurant and vinyl listening bar, Only the Wild Ones, on the ground floor next door to Abbott Kinney's shuttered spot, Atla. She brought over the chef and culinary team from Butcher's Daughter, Richard Rea, to produce a smart lineup of plant-based dishes to accompany the wine, cocktails, and vinyl played on a hi-fi system. On the second floor is Crudo e Nudo partner Leena Culhane's upstairs speakeasy, Force of Nature. The bar, which doubles as a space for workshops and special events, serves a menu of wine, cocktails, and zero proof options. Most of the dishes from Local Kitchens in Studio City. Wonho Frank Lee Local Kitchens — Studio City Local Kitchens, a Studio City food hall bringing some of the Internet's favorite chefs under one roof, opened on July 2. It's the first of its kind in Southern California and offers quite a lineup with burgers by Alvin Cailan (of Chinatown's Amboy), Vietnamese dishes by Tuệ Nguyen, Mexican fare by cookbook author Rick Martinez, fried chicken by Proposition Chicken, and eastern Mediterranean dishes by Einat Admony. With more than a dozen locations in Northern California and a brief stint in Orange County a few years back, the mini food hall offers the convenience of multiple menus in one venue. Gladstones — Malibu Malibu beachfront restaurant Gladstones partially reopened July 4 for the first time since the January Palisades Fire. Only the outdoor deck reopened on July 4, while the interior remains closed for renovations due to fire damage, and is slated to reopened in early 2026. Gladstone's outdoor deck has an updated look courtesy of architect Stephen Francis Jones and features a new mural from artist Jonas Never. The menu at Gladstones remains the same with favorites like fish tacos, ceviche, lobster rolls, and cocktails. Katsuya Uechi in Century City. Katsuya Katsuya — Century City Okinawa-born chef Katsuya Uechi opened the first Katsuya in Studio City in 1997, joining the long history of California Japanese restaurants that serve the San Fernando Valley. His latest Katsuya is a lounge restaurant that opened on July 25 in Century City's former Rock Sugar with a wide menu of sushi, sashimi, hot appetizers like rock shrimp tempura, and larger mains like miso black cod. Uechi expanded to Brentwood with SBE in 2006, eventually growing to six other locations around the world, including Toronto, Miami, and the Bahamas. Katsuya also opened in Hollywood and L.A. Live (it also operated an outlet in Glendale, but it has since closed). Uechi runs a more independent collection of Japanese restaurants that include the Izakaya by Katsu-ya and Kiwami, but the Century City restaurant will fall under the SBE partnership that leans more into the sleek, high-design Nobu-esque category. Muelle 8. Matthew Kang Muelle 8 — East LA Muelle 8 has reopened in East Los Angeles with a smaller, tighter menu served from a food trailer. The current owner of the Muelle 8 brand in the U.S., Jay Orozco, brought back chef Luis Cortez, the chef who oversaw the opening in Downey in 2023. The menu draws from the most popular hits from the barra fría (raw bar) and barra caliente (hot bar) that were served at the restaurant, including camarones zarandeados and a surf-and-turf taco of grilled cabrería and shrimp with Anaheim chile and melted cheese. The Downey restaurant originally debuted in February 2023, garnering lots of initial praise, including a nod from the Los Angeles Times, for its regional Mexican seafood from Culiacán. Outside Tesla Diner in Hollywood. Matthew Kang Tesla Diner — Hollywood Cafe Tondo in Chinatown. Sean Davidson Cafe Tondo — Chinatown On July 25, the Mexico City-influenced Cafe Tondo opened in the former Oriel under the A Line train tracks in Chinatown. The cafe and bar serves everything from early morning coffee and conchas to afternoon spritzes and salsa after dark. Tondo, which refers to a circular relief or painting in Spanish, comes from a collaboration between first-time restaurateur and Mouthwash Studio co-founder Abraham Campillo; Mouthwash Studio partners Mackenzie Freemire, Alex Tan, and Ben Mingo; Mike Kang of Locale Partners; and chef Valeria Velásquez. The daytime menu, starting August 1, comprises conchas, chilaquiles, coffee, and more, while evening brings Milanesa, steak frites, and wine. Assorted dishes at Men & Beasts restaurants in Echo Park. Tim Sullens Photography Bar 109 — Melrose Hill Brian Baik's elegant cocktail outlet Bar 109 debuted on July 29. The bar resides in the front portion of his forthcoming tasting menu restaurant, Corridor 109, which has been in development for years. The first iteration of Corridor 109 was a pop-up at Kobawoo, which served a collection of Japanese and Korean seafood courses inspired by his New York City experience. Bartender Kayla Garcia oversees the drinks, while Jon Tran is function the general manager. Garcia was most recently at Kumiko, which just won the 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Bar and is currently number 10 in the North America 50 Best Bars. At Bar 109, Garcia serves updated versions of classic cocktails alongside creative bar bites. Eater LA All your essential food and restaurant intel delivered to you Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Eater
5 days ago
- Eater
The Best Dishes Eater Editors Ate This Week: July 28
The editors at Eater LA dine out several times a week, if not per day, which means we're always encountering standout dishes that deserve time in the limelight. Here's the very best of everything the team has eaten this week. Xiao long bao tortelloni from Kato's Summer Series with Funke in Downtown LA Xiao long bao tortelloni from Kato's summer series with Funke Rebecca Roland The latest installment of Kato's Summer Series, a dinner collaboration series bringing chefs from across LA to Row DTLA to collaborate with the restaurant, welcomed Evan Funke. On Sunday night, Funke could be spotted in the corner of the spacious tasting menu restaurant, clad in a denim shirt and apron, rolling out sheets of pasta by hand. Each dish channeled a bit of Funke and Yao, like chile crisp-topped burrata and tomatoes, and cacio e pepe tossed with zingy Taiwanese pepper. But the xiao long bao tortelloni stood out among the other dishes, with its carefully folded edges holding back rich broth. The outer was thinner than most pasta and slightly chewier than the usual xiao long bao, filled with pork and prawn. There was only one in the dish, but I would've been happy if the entire meal were just a steamer full of these. It's nice to see a fine dining restaurant let loose a little at collaborations, with hip-hop blaring over the speakers, and menus that read like a chef's fever dream. 777 S. Alameda Street, Building 1, Suite 114, Los Angeles, CA 90021. — Rebecca Roland, deputy editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest Dry pepper fried tofu from Mala Class in Highland Park Dry pepper fried tofu from Mala Class in Highland Park. Rebecca Roland There is something about hot days that makes me crave spicy food, specifically Sichuan spice. On a recent afternoon when the sun was beating down on the city, I found myself in Highland Park looking for some heat. I tucked into jewel-boxed-sized Mala Class, a neighborhood Sichuan restaurant that punches well above its weight, and price point. The tight menu comprises mapo tofu, dumplings in chile oil, dan dan noodles, and a handful of other dishes. My favorite from the lineup was the dry pepper fried tofu, with crispy pieces of tofu dotted in numbing Sichuan peppers. The spice mix was flavorful, while still packing a punch, and the tofu cubes were fried until crispy on the outside with a still-soft interior. Each bite just made me want another, chased by bits of rice and dumplings every so often. 5816 York Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90042. — Rebecca Roland, deputy editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest Smoked double-fried chicken wings from Happies Hand Made in the Arts District Smoked double-fried chicken wings from Happies Hand Made in the Arts District. Matthew Kang By now, the word on Joshua Skenes' Happies Hand Made has shown up on multiple social media accounts touting the fried chicken, like Hungry in LA's Eddie Sanchez declaring it his new favorite fried chicken in LA. While declaring anything comprised of chicken tenders (the least-interesting part of the bird) as the best fried chicken is initially suspect, Skenes does make a really delicious bird coated in a salsa macha and dried chile seasoning. Skenes quietly rolled out his double-fried cherrywood smoke chicken wings last week, served over a golden-brown waffle that he once topped with caviar at his temporarily closed Leopardo on La Brea Avenue. The wings are juicy and sweet with smoke flavor, cracker-like on the outside, and incredibly satisfying to eat. Skenes himself is often mixing drinks or prepping orders up front, with the line of customers not realizing the former chef of a three-Michelin-star restaurant (Saison) is making some of the best comfort food in Los Angeles right now. Or maybe they do realize that Skenes has poured so much energy into simple, reasonably priced food, and that's why they're willing to wait. 427 S. Hewitt Street, Los Angeles, CA, 90013. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest Baja tuna tower at the Koast and Crossroads collaborative dinner in Hollywood Koast. Wonho Frank Lee It's always a delight when a dinner collaboration goes right; I always appreciate the effort brought about by chefs and operators preparing a meal together, but the meal is not always a great fit. But when Crossroads chef Tal Ronnen joined Koast chefs Kevin Meehan and Michael Kerner on July 24, everything hit. Ronnen created dishes that reinvented some of Koast's most memorable bites through a vegan lens, like a dreamy watermelon crudo, spectacular lobster mushroom cake, and citrusy rambutan ceviche. My crew nabbed a few Koast dishes a la carte, and all agreed that the Baja tuna tower filled with Baja bluefin tuna, avocado, and tons of tobiko fish eggs is worth returning for. It's as creamy as one would hope and bursting with roe. In short, it's a gorgeous bite of the ocean from the two Koast chefs served in a stunning and intimate room with an entry that's dramatic and fitting for the concept. I've been admiring Ronnen's menu at Crossroads for years, and now it's clearly time for me to make regular stops at Koast to try the rest of the menu. 6623 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA, 90038 — Mona Holmes, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest Eater LA All your essential food and restaurant intel delivered to you Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
