Chasing the Ghosts of Old Las Vegas
No EMF Meter is needed to feel the spirits at the Neon Museum after dark. The giant neon signs in the boneyard once entertained millions with light and color and movement, but have moldered into rusting steel and broken glass. A high-tech light show called Brilliant! Jackpot simulates animation through projection, and for a moment gives the illusion of life with music and energy, before the behemoths fade back to black.
Other fragments of the lost city live on at the Mob Museum downtown, where you can ogle Meyer Lansky's art deco cigarette case and Bugsy Siegel's aviator sunglasses.
The ghost of gangster Siegel looms over the El Cortez Hotel. The newly renovated Downtown landmark has the onetime owner/mob boss' mug plastered everywhere from the ice machine to the men's room. The entrance to casino restaurant Siegel's 1941 is framed by a neon signature that matches not only the high-backed banquettes but the classic chicken parm that I scarfed down before heading to a concert at the hotel's new ShowBar. I learned the term 'table touching' from an old maître d' who explained the importance of a personal connection to each patron. Owner Kitty Heck at Hot Noodz, the hotel's new Chinese fusion restaurant is a master of it, sharing stories about her family, including Michelin-starred dad in the kitchen, as she checked on her devoted customers.
El Cortez is drenched in enough vintage neon to fill you with the spirit of old Las Vegas yet just far enough from the madness of the Fremont Street Experience that it's practically genteel. Book a room in the 'Original 47' wing or for a taste of Dynasty-era opulence, check out the original suite of onetime owner Jackie Gaughan on the top floor. Gaughan once owned much of downtown including the Plaza and a piece of the Golden Nugget.
In 1979, he and his son Michael built the Barbary Coast next door to the Flamingo, where he opened his opulent Michael's Gourmet Room restaurant. No place else captures the Casino-era like the outrageously decadent dining room, which was carefully taken apart and moved to the South Point casino when the original hotel closed. This palace of Continental cuisine was inspired by the Flamingo's Candlelight Room and is filled with stained glass, tuxedoed waiters, and flaming tableside preparations. I enjoyed the most lavish meal of my life amidst all of this magnificence in a plush, dim room that was so magical I expected the candelabras to break into song. No ghosts required.
LAS VEGAS LOUNGES
At the height of Las Vegas cool in the 1950s and 60s, the big names playing the showrooms would sneak in to see the late-night shows in the hotel lounges. The town was awash in live entertainment and the tradition lives on in a few rooms. These are our favorite lounges, some with music, all with cocktails, and each one worth it for the vibe alone.
BOOTLEGGER Before she built her dream Italian restaurant fifty years ago, Bootlegger owner Lorraine Hunt-Bono was herself a Las Vegas singer. Today, her sprawling complex features nightly live entertainment into the wee hours. We loved sultry Rita Lim who channeled everyone from Peggy Lee to Karen Carpenter on our visit.
GOLDEN STEER This iconic wood-paneled steakhouse has been rolling out the beef since 1958, but with Saturday reservations already full for the entire summer your best bet is to belly up to the bar. Their lounge menu features cocktails inspired by Frank, Dean and Sammy and the people watching is top notch.
ITALIAN AMERICAN CLUB Outside, the 65-year old private club is stone and statuary and fountains, inside there's a mosaic of celebrity headshots leading to the stage where this summer you'll see tributes to Luther Vandross and Barbra Streisand. Non-Italians can join the club and anyone can purchase a '30 Day Social Membership' for $1.
PEPPERMILL Is it day or night or 1972? Deep inside this dark lounge tucked into a coffee shop is a sunken circular pink marble conversation pit with hot tub water gurgling and flames shooting out of the center. That's where you want to be when your Pink Squirrel cocktail arrives, lounging on gold velour and about to set sail.
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