'Mineral sunscreens don't work for Black skin, and it's time for the fake inclusivity to stop'

Cosmopolitan

a day ago

Everyone has memories of being smeared with sunscreen as a kid, right? The formulas were thick, white and paste-like; the texture reminiscent of Philadelphia being rubbed into your skin. But I think we can all agree that SPF innovation has come a long way since then – now, the variety of textures (oils, waters and mists in abundance) and types of products (lip balms, sticks, powders, you name it) are better than ever.
Because of the myriad of choice, you don't really have an excuse to not wear sun protection every damn day, and for the most part, I'm usually excited to try out a new SPF. That is, apart from mineral formulas. Despite the continued innovation, and various launches from a whole host of different brands, the powers that be still haven't nailed the mineral sunscreen with no white cast. Yes, there are some that only leave the faintest tinge. But on the deepest Black skin tone? It's still going to be noticeable.
So, in 2025, is it time to just admit that mineral sunscreens with no white cast simply don't exist?
I've written about the perils of using mineral sunscreens on Black skin dozens of times over the years, and, until the rise in popularity of chemical sunscreens, it was a minefield of 'just' how grey an SPF would leave you.
Previously, I would happily act as a guinea pig to test out just how much a new launch would leave my face looking like the Moon emoji, to stop the community from buying something that wasn't right for our skin tone. Now, though, if you want to avoid that possibility altogether, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of chemical sunscreens that apply completely clear on Black skin.
The conundrum is that chemical sunscreens can be irritating to sensitive skin types, due to the way that they process the sun rays, leaving those with hyper-sensitive Black skin in a pickle.
'Chemical formulas may irritate sensitive skin, and can sometimes be absorbed by the body,' says Dr Rachna Murthy, an Ophthalmologist, Oculoplastic & Reconstructive Surgeon, and Medical Aesthetic Practitioner. Chemical SPFs absorb the rays, turning them into heat on the skin before releasing it. So, if your skin is easily reactive, chemical SPFs can be a no-go, no matter what your skin colour is. If this is the case, some kind of mineral SPF, which uses physical blockers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide as a barrier to the sun, will be a better choice. But due to the nature of the minerals used to successfully block the UVB and UVA rays, even with today's innovation, there is always a chance that will leaves a layer on top of dark skin.
'Because these minerals are naturally white and sit on top of the skin, they can leave a visible cast, especially on darker skin tones where the contrast is more noticeable,' says Dr Murthy. 'Advances in formulation have improved this, but some cast may still occur depending on the product.' Amy Ford, founder of one of Cosmopolitan's go-to SPF brands, Hello Sunday, agrees. 'It's simply part of how mineral filters work,' she says, 'and why it's difficult to guarantee a completely invisible finish across all complexions.'
With this knowledge, surely it's down to brands to be transparent (excuse the pun) about the limitations in mineral formulas? Not only would it reduce the amount of regret buys, but it would also halt the white cast test videos that have multiplied since I came into the industry, with influencers like Dr Julian Sass and Alicia Lartey testing mineral sunscreens claiming to 'suit all skin tones' and subsequently calling out the brands that fail the test.
'Unfortunately, some brands, mainly those that don't specialise in SPF, aren't fully aware of the science behind the formulas, which is why we often see claims of [no] white cast that ultimately leave consumers disappointed. If an invisible application is your priority, a chemical sunscreen is your best bet,' says Ford.
Ultimately, it feels like in order to appear inclusive, brands stick the claims of 'universal' on these launches, to fend off the idea that they're producing products that exclude Black and brown folks. But it does more harm than good, and if anything, highlights the shortsightedness of a brand who still believe that they can make a false claim, and won't face trial by social media as a result.
As someone who is yet to meet a traditional mineral sunscreen that works for my Black skin and tones deeper than mine, I'm finally OK with admitting that they aren't for us. For me, from here on out, it's chemical and hybrid sunscreens all the way.
Keeks Reid is the Beauty Director at Cosmopolitan UK. While she loves all things beauty, Keeks is a hair fanatic through and through. She started her career in beauty journalism in 2013 as editorial assistant at Blackhair and Hair magazines working her way to Acting Editor of Blackhair magazine at 23 years old. She spent much of her career working in trade hairdressing media at Hairdressers Journal, Salon International and the British Hairdressing Awards. Which is why she is a regular contributor to Cosmo's Curl Up franchise. Now, alongside her Cosmo work, she presents, creates content on social media and works with a range of beauty companies; from magazines and websites to beauty brands and salons.