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The Sun
23 minutes ago
- The Sun
I tested best fish and chips in capital of British national dish – winner was succulent and flaky and only cost £10.50
THERE are few things we Brits love more than fish and chips. And Scarborough, home to 93 chippies, knows that more than anywhere else. The seaside resort in North Yorks has more fish and chip shops per head than any other town or city in the country — 85.4 per 100,000 to be precise. 15 So as a self-confessed fan of our national dish, I knew I had to pay it a visit. My mission? To find the best fish and chips in the fish and chip capital of Britain. My method? By trying as many establishments as I could in the town centre in one day. And along the way, I found out just how the chippy makes the meal like nowhere else — and why it's more important than ever to make a point of supporting your local. As it turns out, the dish had made quite the journey to end up in the UK. Sephardic Jews in 15th Century Portugal enjoyed traditional fried fish on the Sabbath. Cooking on the day itself was forbidden, so they would wrap the fish in batter to preserve it. But when they were banished in 1497, many fled to England, bringing the dish with them — and the tradition of eating it on a Friday soon caught on. By the Victorian era, fried fish was firmly established as a working-class staple, being cheap, nutritious and easy to ship across the country thanks to the arrival of the railways. 'Fried fish warehouses' even featured in the Charles Dickens classic Oliver Twist. Britain's £65 Fish & Chips So Big NO ONE Can Finish It Alone But the title of Britain's first fish and chip shop is hotly debated. A southerner may tell you the first one was opened in Bow, East London, by a Jewish immigrant called Joseph Malin in about 1860, while a northerner might claim it was John Lees, who opened a market stall in Mossley, Lancs, around 1863. Wherever that marriage of fried fish and fried chips was first made, it wasn't long before there was a shop on just about every corner. The dish even escaped rationing during World War Two. 'Prices are rocketing' 'It just worked so well, and it's great nutrition,' says Andrew Crook, President of the National Federation of Fish Friers. The numbers don't lie either. According to UK Fisheries, UK fans scoff around 382million meals from chippies every year and spend £1.2billion on fish and chips annually. Even Queen Elizabeth was a devotee — although she didn't eat fish off a newspaper, instead preferring haddock cut into small squares and covered in breadcrumbs. So how did we come to love fish and chips so much? 'It's a comfort thing,' reckons Andrew. 'People go on holiday, and the first meal they have when they get back is fish and chips. 'Everyone has their favourite chippy — you see so many arguments on social media about which one's better than the other. But as long as it sells and people love it, you're doing alright.' But the good old fish and chip shop is under threat. Although there are still more than 10,500 shops left in the country, they now find themselves under pressure just like other small businesses. 15 'Fish prices are rocketing, while staff wages and national insurance contributions have increased,' says Raymond Fusco, a third-generation fish fryer and the owner of Winking Willy's, a fish and chip shop right on the harbourside in Scarborough. He adds: 'Gas price increases were massive too, because of the Ukraine war. All that has to be taken into account.' Reduced cod fishing quotas in recent years have also driven costs upwards. But despite these challenges, Raymond still feels confident about the future. He says: 'The good shops will continue to thrive. You can't imagine a Britain without fish and chips.' Andrew, meanwhile, wants the Government to recognise the problems smaller shops face. He says: 'We've got a great product and people rightly love fish and chips. 'We just need the Government to start engaging with this more closely, because if they don't I fear for many small businesses.' But to really understand fish and chips, I would have to get behind the counter and find out how it is made. Raymond explains the vital parts of the process. The oil will soak in if the batter is too thin — and chips must always be at least double fried. When it comes to the fish, keeping the oil clean is what matters most, and it must be regularly sieved to remove scraps and impurities. 15 'Crispy on outside' It's also why what you get down the chippy is so different to what you get in pubs. Raymond reveals: 'We always say, the busier we are, the better the fish, because you're constantly turning over the oil. 'Pubs don't generally do the same amount of volume.' I was now ready to go back to the customer side of the counter and see what Scarborough had on offer — but what should I be looking for in good fish and chips? Andrew, who also judges the National Fish and Chip awards, says: 'You want to be looking at the batter first. 'I'd always break a fish in half and make sure it's not too gooey underneath. You want a nice thin batter that's crisp, and you want a little bit of lift on it, usually a bit spiky.' Haddock rather than cod is the preferred offering in Scarborough, but a good fish will always be ice white and flakey. And for the chips? Andrew says: 'Crispy on the outside and soft in the middle.' But he added that as it was new potato season, they would likely be on the softer side. For these reviews, I have taken into account flavour and value for money to give each a mark out of ten. Here, I reveal what happened when I put Scarborough — and my arteries — to the test. Winking Willies: £10.50 15 THE batter at this family-run shop certainly delivered a great crunch. The chips also had a good amount of softness on the inside without sacrificing the bite on the outside – no doubt thanks to the fact it is cooked in beef tallow. But it was the fish itself that really stood out, with a succulent flavour and great degree of flakiness. 9/10 Harbourside: £11.20 Like Willy's, this takeaway on the far end of the seafront also keeps things traditional by frying everything in beef dripping. Taste wise, it's worth it, and the chips had a great colour. I was also impressed by the size of the fish – though at £11.20 I wouldn't expect anything less. The fish was slightly greasy, but the batter was crisp. 7/10 The Anchor: £11.30 WITH it featuring on TV's The One Show, I went into The Anchor with high expectations – and it almost met them. The portion size was good, and there was clean separation when I broke away the fish, indicating good batter. But I found the chips to be somewhat undercooked with too much fluff – though having beers on draught almost made up for it. SCORE: 6/10 Bamford's: £10.60 THIS small shop on the front had one of the best coloured chips on offer. The fish also delivered on taste. In its favour, for me, was the fact that the skin was still left on. Though I can appreciate not everyone is a fan of this, I think it adds a nice variety to the flavour, especially when you're tucking into it by the sea. SCORE: 7/10 Tunny Club: £8.95 I WAS impressed by this award-winning takeaway's unique twist on the classic dish – a fish and chip wrap, featuring battered haddock, chips, and tartar sauce all bundled together. It came in at a very reasonable price, and I was pleasantly surprised by the innovation, which made a pleasant change from your usual takeaway tray. 8/10 Fish Pan: £9.85 15 Established in 1960, this old-school seafront take- away unfortunately left me disappointed. I enjoyed the chips, and the batter looked and tasted good, too. However, the fish itself was far too greasy for me to enjoy, and was too tough as well, lacking the flakiness I had been told by the experts to be on the lookout for. SCORE: 5/10 Papa's: £10.18 15 SITTING in a prime position on the seafront, a giant sign announces this as Britain's Best Fish and Chips. Unfortunately, it wasn't on the day I visited. Although the chips were decent, the fish was oily and not as good as many of the others nearby. But at £10.18 for a regular meal, it was one of the better value shops along the front. SCORE: 5/10 Carol's Plaice: £9 15 A FEW streets away from the beach in a more residential area, this small family-owned shop is not chasing the tourist crowd – but it offered plenty of bang for my buck. The chips were generously portioned and the batter was a standout. It's no wonder that Gary from Coronation Street – actor Mikey North – once paid a visit. 8/10 Rennards: £9.15 15 THE offering from this town centre chippy was a decent size for the price, and the fish itself was tasty. The batter wasn't too bad either, though it could have done with crisping up a little bit more. Unfortunately, the chips were the let-down here, as they were pale, undercooked and overall of poor quality. 5/10 Wackers: £10 15 THE understated plain brick frontage of this takeaway just off the main shopping street didn't fill me with buckets of hope. But at a tenner a portion, I couldn't complain. The batter had a good golden colour to it, and the chips tasted great with a lovely crispness on the outside. Top whack! SCORE: 8/10 North Bay Fisheries: £12.50 15 THE large queue snaking out of the door proved why this establishment, situated on the opposite side of town, is one of the highest-rated chippies in Scarborough. The batter and chips all scored top marks, and the fish was tasty too with a more meaty texture. By far the most expensive takeaway I visited but the portion size was very generous. 9/10 Catch 55: £10 JUST one road back from the seafront, this smart establishment offered a regular meal for a reasonable tenner. The batter was some of the best I'd had, and the fish was also tasty. But although the chips were great, they were let down by the fact that there were not as many in my box as other shops had served me.
Times
an hour ago
- Times
Creatures of the night do battle in the dark woods
The natural world at night is a world at war. Walking through the night-time wood after checking the sheep, I slapped at mosquitoes and other biting insects, and recalled why I am word perfect on Vivian's library scene lament in Oscar Wilde's The Decay of Lying: 'Enjoy Nature! I am glad to say that I have entirely lost that faculty… Nature is so uncomfortable. Grass is hard and lumpy and damp, and full of dreadful black insects.' People who gush endlessly that nature is wonderful are people that do not spend enough time in nature. And in the primitiveness of the night, nature's discomforts and bloodiness seem particularly acute. If fascinating. As I hurried along, flapping my arms fit to fly, I caught sight in the moonlight of a swirl of long-eared bats (Plecotus auritus) in the pine glade. They were corralling a shoal of white moths into the centre of the glade, where the Lepidoptera made easy pickings. This is the second time that I have seen this batty herding phenomenon. • Six-year-old boy 'attacked by wolf' in Dutch nature reserve The long-eared bat, like others of its Chiroptera ilk, is locked in a millennia-old co-evolutionary arms race with its moth prey, with each species developing counter-measures to maintain survival. In an upping of their armoury, long-eared bats now use the sense of smell to help hunt moths. Meanwhile, some hawk-moths have evolved to hear with their mouthparts and respond to bat calls with evasive manoeuvres. Tiger moths (Bertholdia trigona) can use their own ultrasound clicks to jam the echolocation signals of the big brown bat (Eptesicus fuscus). So, I am left wondering whether the apparently co-operative hunting of the long-eared bats is a fluke, or an escalation in the arms race. As local names such as 'muckweed', 'dirty jack' or 'dirtweed' indicate, fat-hen (Chenopodium album) is a plant of the farmyard and well-manured field. For the Anglo-Saxons it was 'melde' and its historical abundancy gave it a place in national toponomy, with Milden in Suffolk and Melbourn in Cambridgeshire. Like peoples before them, the Anglo-Saxons used fat-hen as a food for humans and fowl, hence the 'hen'. As well as being harvested for its seeds, fat-hen was eaten as a vegetable until spinach and cabbage knocked it off the plate in the 16th century. We classify fat-hen today as a weed or wildflower, yet for millennia it was cultivated as well as gathered: the wild and the farmed were not discrete in the old times. Indeed, my grandfather, as late as the 1960s, expected the farm to 'crop' wild things (from blackberries to hares) as well as the planted and the tended. They knew a thing or two, those ancients: in this year of drought my farmed crops have struggled, but we have on the manure heap a quite excellent accidental crop of fat hen. In August, the spire-shaped fat hen is at its peak height, a metre and a half, and the profuse green flowers are already turning to seed. The grey-green oval leaves are often conspicuously covered in a white, powdery meal ('album' in the plant's scientific name refers to this white dust, which is strictly speaking an epicuticular wax). As well as fattening humans and poultry, the seeds are beloved by hungry buntings and finches in winter. • Community surrounding The Sound of Music's lake in lease dispute We have a sky full of swallows. The juveniles from our three nests — and I am aware of the unsuitability of using the possessive pronoun for wild things — have joined their novice fellows up in the blue. There are, as I write, perhaps 50 young Hirundo rustica skirling above the house and surrounding fields; their constant communication with each other a joyous baby babble. Our largesse in swallows is not accidental; we and our neighbours keep livestock — hence the manure heap — and where there is outdoor livestock run on nature-friendly principles there are swallows. It could hardly be other. In his pioneering study 'The Larval Inhabitants of Cow Pats', Journal of Animal Ecology, 23, 1954, BR Lawrence calculated that the dung of a single outdoor cow supported nearly 2.2 million insects a year. Which is quite a lot of grub for swallows. Folklorically, swallows are weather indicators, thus the saying, 'Swallows high, staying dry; Swallows low, wet will blow.' On fine days warm air rises upwards, carrying the gauzy-winged insects with it. Consequently, the insectivorous swallows fly high to find their food. Conversely, during unsettled weather the insecty things seek the shelter of trees and vegetation, requiring swallows to swoop low — sometimes just millimetres off the ground — to catch them. John Lewis-Stempel is the author of England, A Natural History
Times
an hour ago
- Times
Class snobbery is at heart of NHS gender war
Outside the tribunal in Dundee, Jane Russell KC, stopped to pet a border collie. 'Would that be a female dog or a male dog?' asked a mischievous Scot. Russell laughed nervously. 'Ha-HAH! Well, I don't know. How would you know?' she mumbled, then darted into the building. Does Russell, a keen horsewoman who celebrated taking silk by galloping through London on a steed called Jupiter, really believe biological sex is 'complicated', that babies — and, presumably, dogs and horses — are randomly 'assigned' male or female at birth by a midwife/vet? Or is this just fashionable sophistry she deploys to defend her clients NHS Fife and the trans-identified male doctor Beth Upton? Certainly for Sandie Peggie this postmodern conceit is no joke. A nurse for 30 years, she was suspended, put through internal disciplinary hearings and at this tribunal has endured scrutiny of every intimate matter, from her menstrual cycle to whether she loves her lesbian daughter, just for upholding a basic truth: sex is real. Of all such cases — and I've followed many — none encapsulates the shibboleths, snobberies and magical thinking of our age so well. Day after day we heard doctors and managers of Victoria Hospital, Kirkcaldy, relate how they unashamedly closed ranks against a working-class nurse, whose rights, feelings or even basic humanity fell beyond their #BeKind purview. It started on Christmas Eve 2023, when Peggie rushed to the female changing rooms, fearing that a sudden menstrual flood — a common occurrence around menopause — had soaked her scrubs. When Dr Upton entered, Peggie says she told him he was making her feel uncomfortable and asked him to leave. But this incident, which sparked almost two years of litigation, isn't the most shocking. Twice before, Peggie had come in to change, seen Upton, turned around and waited outside until he left. She'd said nothing, just declined to undress in front of him. But Upton reported her anyway and — amazingly — his line manager Dr Kate Searle took his side: 'Beth felt uncomfortable with someone behaving differently like that.' Even silent dissent wouldn't do. The only acceptable course of action was for Peggie to tamp down her embarrassment and strip — only then could a six-foot-tall man's belief that he is a woman remain intact. Did Searle ask Peggie how she felt? 'I didn't make that approach.' Instead, after Christmas, Searle sat down with Upton and filled in an official complaint in which (she has admitted on oath) she incorrectly asserted that Peggie had compared him to the trans rapist Isla Bryson. Then, against all disciplinary protocol, Searle emailed other doctors to rally support for Upton, telling them to avoid 'foot in mouth' misspeaks which might stop Peggie, who was instantly suspended, being punished. Each day we learnt new ways in which senior hospital staff had persecuted a nurse with a flawless record. Jamie Doyle, head of nursing, wanted Peggie reported to the police. Upton claimed to have noted earlier incidents in which Peggie's hostility towards him had endangered patients. But no one corroborated these grave claims and an IT expert who analysed Upton's phone testified that these were not contemporaneous notes but added after the Christmas Eve row. (Peggie was cleared of these and other allegations in a separate hospital disciplinary inquiry.) Why did all of these senior people fall over themselves to take Upton's side, even at the expense of truth? Because trans identity tops an all-important oppression hierarchy and the purest form of virtue is being a 'trans ally'. To prove this, both the head of diversity, Isla Bumba, and Searle, an A&E consultant, claimed neither knew Upton's sex, or even their own. 'I've never had my chromosomes tested,' said Bumba. Does Searle do this before prescribing the correct drug dosage for a female patient? Of course not. No one really believes such absurdity: they mouth it out of religious obeisance. At the base of that purity pyramid are women like Sandie Peggie: boring, menopausal, the ancillary people who confront biological sex in every backside they wipe. Working-class Peggie doesn't hold the received opinions: Russell scoured a seven-year-long private Facebook group of nurses Peggie had holidayed with to find that she'd reposted horrible jokes about the Pakistani floods, is against sharia and illegal migration, and was initially upset that her daughter was gay. The notion was: this 'bigot' doesn't merit rights. But just as a black person who makes antisemitic jokes or a trans woman who posts 'Die in a fire, TERF' still deserve protection against discrimination or violence, Peggie, whatever her views, has the right to undress at work without being watched by a man. Now the Peggie tribunal evidence has concluded, the judgment will come later this year and she is predicted to receive a substantial payout. But the case of the Darlington nurses — who also objected to a man changing with them — is scheduled for a full tribunal in October; a similar case involving a Muslim nurse is pending, while Jennifer Melle, a black nurse who was racially abused by a trans-identifying male paedophile in police custody because she referred to him as 'Mister', is still suspended by Epsom and St Helier University Hospitals Trust. Four months after the Supreme Court clarified the meaning of sex, it is an outrage that public money is still being squandered while women fight for basic rights. Why does the Health and Safety Executive not remind employers of 1992 workplace laws which mandate single-sex changing? Why are NHS England and the NHS Confederation allowed by the health secretary, Wes Streeting, to drag their feet? The ludicrous joke that sex is an unfathomable mystery has worn very thin.
