How to travel the world through your kitchen cupboards
It sounds old-fashioned but there's a larder in my kitchen. There isn't homemade charcuterie hanging inside, or a cheese cabinet; in fact you can't walk around it, but you can stand just inside its door looking for inspiration for dinner. There's no fresh food, not even eggs, but you'll find north African preserved lemons, Greek olives, Chinese chilli oil and tinned vintage sardines from both France and Norway. Everything is supposed to be arranged by country, but they get mixed up. It's annoying not to be able to find pomegranate molasses because it's hidden behind Chinese black vinegar.
If you were trying to assess global politics through this cupboard you'd think Japan and south-east Asia were taking over the world. A little plastic figure of Hello Kitty presides over miso, fish sauce and various types of soy. I have to reorganise the larder every so often but it's a big job sorting out the world.
I didn't travel much when I was growing up in Northern Ireland; instead I went places through books and cooking. I became obsessed with the flavours that girdle the Earth. Food writer Gurdeep Loyal is a fellow 'flavour hunter', though this wasn't a decision, it simply became the obvious thing.
His family comes from the Punjab, he was born in Leicester, and putting different flavours together was part of life. 'I've always loved joining the dots,' he says. 'Looking at where spices have come from and where they end up. We talk about food trends and think it's something new. It's not. If I just look at the Punjab, conquerors brought foods with them and took foods away. Food has always been on the move.'
Since his first job in the industry at Innocent Drinks, where he was surrounded by other food lovers, Loyal has worked for Harrods and M&S seeking out food trends, sniffing out the unusual and the unfamiliar. The first thing he does on holiday, like all keen cooks, is go to a supermarket. On a recent trip to Philadelphia, he immersed himself in the food of Cambodia (there's a significant Cambodian population there), and he tips it as the next 'big thing'.
It might sound like a commercial job – 'Let's find something that will sell big!' – but Loyal is driven by curiosity. He's also a huge lover of art and music, and finds they all link up. It's as if he has a kind of synaesthesia. 'I'm a flavour collagist,' he says with a smile. 'I'm interested in connections, in looking for constellations of amazingness.'
Nicola Lando set up Sous Chef, the online company that sells every ingredient you could ever want, after she left her job in finance. She couldn't stop cooking; she was, like Loyal and me, an obsessive. Lando worked her way through the most significant cookbooks of specific cuisines, and became an expert in everything a home cook would need to get to grips with the food of Sri Lanka, Spain or Sicily. She launched Sous Chef with 400 recherché ingredients in 2012. Along with her, three employees now taste, track down and decide what should be added. It's as much a place to browse as to shop for a specific item.
Lando has some of the best olive oils in the world, and has recently brought in chocolate (chocolate is getting a lot of love right now, she tells me) from Modica in Sicily. It isn't just about providing the unfamiliar, it's also about selling the best in a particular category.
She won't list an ingredient just because it's gone mad on TikTok, but she will rave about a particular vinegar (Giusti 'Banda Rossa' 20-Year-Aged Balsamic, more please) and not everything is serious. (Want to try French crisps that taste of tartiflette? Believe me, you do.)
Right now, Loyal wants us to try tian op, a Thai candle that scents sweet dishes, and I'm up for the Modica chocolate (it doesn't melt as readily as most). As the recipes shared here prove, I have room in my larder for everything.
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Telegraph
4 hours ago
- Telegraph
How to travel the world through your kitchen cupboards
It sounds old-fashioned but there's a larder in my kitchen. There isn't homemade charcuterie hanging inside, or a cheese cabinet; in fact you can't walk around it, but you can stand just inside its door looking for inspiration for dinner. There's no fresh food, not even eggs, but you'll find north African preserved lemons, Greek olives, Chinese chilli oil and tinned vintage sardines from both France and Norway. Everything is supposed to be arranged by country, but they get mixed up. It's annoying not to be able to find pomegranate molasses because it's hidden behind Chinese black vinegar. If you were trying to assess global politics through this cupboard you'd think Japan and south-east Asia were taking over the world. A little plastic figure of Hello Kitty presides over miso, fish sauce and various types of soy. I have to reorganise the larder every so often but it's a big job sorting out the world. I didn't travel much when I was growing up in Northern Ireland; instead I went places through books and cooking. I became obsessed with the flavours that girdle the Earth. Food writer Gurdeep Loyal is a fellow 'flavour hunter', though this wasn't a decision, it simply became the obvious thing. His family comes from the Punjab, he was born in Leicester, and putting different flavours together was part of life. 'I've always loved joining the dots,' he says. 'Looking at where spices have come from and where they end up. We talk about food trends and think it's something new. It's not. If I just look at the Punjab, conquerors brought foods with them and took foods away. Food has always been on the move.' Since his first job in the industry at Innocent Drinks, where he was surrounded by other food lovers, Loyal has worked for Harrods and M&S seeking out food trends, sniffing out the unusual and the unfamiliar. The first thing he does on holiday, like all keen cooks, is go to a supermarket. On a recent trip to Philadelphia, he immersed himself in the food of Cambodia (there's a significant Cambodian population there), and he tips it as the next 'big thing'. It might sound like a commercial job – 'Let's find something that will sell big!' – but Loyal is driven by curiosity. He's also a huge lover of art and music, and finds they all link up. It's as if he has a kind of synaesthesia. 'I'm a flavour collagist,' he says with a smile. 'I'm interested in connections, in looking for constellations of amazingness.' Nicola Lando set up Sous Chef, the online company that sells every ingredient you could ever want, after she left her job in finance. She couldn't stop cooking; she was, like Loyal and me, an obsessive. Lando worked her way through the most significant cookbooks of specific cuisines, and became an expert in everything a home cook would need to get to grips with the food of Sri Lanka, Spain or Sicily. She launched Sous Chef with 400 recherché ingredients in 2012. Along with her, three employees now taste, track down and decide what should be added. It's as much a place to browse as to shop for a specific item. Lando has some of the best olive oils in the world, and has recently brought in chocolate (chocolate is getting a lot of love right now, she tells me) from Modica in Sicily. It isn't just about providing the unfamiliar, it's also about selling the best in a particular category. She won't list an ingredient just because it's gone mad on TikTok, but she will rave about a particular vinegar (Giusti 'Banda Rossa' 20-Year-Aged Balsamic, more please) and not everything is serious. (Want to try French crisps that taste of tartiflette? Believe me, you do.) Right now, Loyal wants us to try tian op, a Thai candle that scents sweet dishes, and I'm up for the Modica chocolate (it doesn't melt as readily as most). As the recipes shared here prove, I have room in my larder for everything.
Times
9 hours ago
- Times
Forget croissants — the best Parisian grub is doner kebabs and mashed potato
Have you ever tucked into a charcuterie platter at a Parisian sex club wearing nothing but steamed-up glasses and a small sarong? Me neither. Fortunately, the food writer Chris Newens has participated in this dually pleasurable activity on our behalf and lived to tell the tale. The enormous establishment Moon City, which from the outside looks like 'a bawdy Balinese temple', but on the inside is 'a funhouse of mirrors' with a hot tub 'surrounded by fake vegetation and fibreglass rocks', offers its patrons a slap-up lunch: brioche, desiccated iceberg lettuce and 'the pink and white marble of a rosette de Lyon'. But never brie or roquefort, France's most famous cheese exports. 'We'd never buy cheese,' the club's doorman says. 'Most of the people who work here are from Senegal. They just buy what appeals to them.' Newens, who hails from an English family of bakers and as a toddler 'played with pastry as play-dough and food colouring for paints', migrated across the Channel a decade ago, drawn by the outstanding culinary reputation of Paris, a capital where even soup kitchens — restaurants solidaires — offer their patrons red wine and cheese courses. But, as he sagely points out in Moveable Feasts, his literary tour round the surprising culinary highlights of the French city, it's not all escargots, steak frites and perfectly domed madeleines, as flowery novels and cringey Netflix shows would have us believe. In fact it's far from it. The city's edible offering has slowly morphed into a joyfully unique combination of tastes and world cuisines: 'Many of the best bouillons these days are Vietnamese pho, the most popular sauce is a spicy ketchup called Algérienne and only tourists eat frogs' legs.' Having unveiled his plan to work backwards through the snail-shaped city map, choosing and recreating a dish he deems representative of each area, Newens starts with the 20th arrondissement, east of the historic centre. Here, paying attention to the rural origins of many Parisian bistro owners, he picks the ancient and fantastically tasty dish the French call aligot (and that the English in our slightly less unromantic language would probably call cheesy mash): pulverised potatoes with melted Tomme de vache stirred through, as well as garlic paste, 'a homeopathic amount of butter' and a drizzle of olive oil. 'Here was a dish to be eaten in a hillside shepherd's hut with a gale outside and maybe a goat at your feet,' Newens proffers. 'Its presence here, though, spoke of the city's willingness to accept and imbibe flavours from beyond its limits.' In the 19th arrondissement, once home to the city's many abattoirs, Newens delves into the history of the meat trade. 'The sheer tonnage of tendon, cartilage and offal sliced and auctioned here over the years is almost impossible to imagine,' he says. • 11 of the best restaurants in Paris for 2025 Kebab shops now proliferate in the area, always with a 'name spelled out in red plastic above its door, high-contrast photographs of its dishes peeling in the window', so he chooses the humble doner — invented by a Turkish restaurateur in the mid 19th century — as the area's token foodstuff, served with 'salade, tomate, oignon', necessarily in that order, and the aforementioned Algérienne sauce, a 'grainy, spicy, sweet orange gloop'. He briefly considers environmental concerns, heeding the loud call of veganism, but speedily admits that when hunger strikes he closes his ears 'to the panicked lowing of the phantom livestock, which can seem to roll with the wind down the canal' and tucks in. The 18th arrondissement has Newens seeking an authentic African restaurant in which to try malangwa fish in a marinade of 'white pepper, chicken stock, mustard, freshly grated ginger, lemon juice and a spice called Aromat'. In the neighbouring 17th arrondissement he takes a crash-course in how to craft the perfect croissant, revealing that the crescent pastries are so hard to execute that 'in Paris only 20 per cent of boulangeries make their own'. And so on. My favourite chapters were ratatouille, which he allocated to the 15th arrondissement and its anxious trainee chefs 'for no good reason apart from that Pixar film about a preternaturally talented rat' causing chaos in a kitchen, and the mouthwatering 10th arrondissement tartiflette. Although the sugary macarons of the 8th arrondissement should get an honourable mention, especially after Newens' wonderful description of the evolution of dessert in the region as 'a single continuous episode of Come Dine with Me played out over more than 50 years.' • Read more book reviews and interviews — and see what's top of the Sunday Times Bestsellers List Far more than a map of the city's most significant culinary markers, Moveable Feasts is a portrait of a place told through those who live there, the 'nicotine-pickled locals' who may have started life elsewhere but now make their living by sifting flour and sharpening knives, from a Peruvian marine biologist retraining at the world-famous Cordon Bleu cookery school to a nearly-80-year-old market seller who 'looked a little like a garden gnome' and deserves 'a chest full of medals' for the hard grind he puts in before dawn each morning. It's a thoroughly entertaining (and seriously hunger-inducing) book that will make the Eurostar marketing team squeal with joy. Et voilà. Moveable Feasts: Paris in Twenty Meals by Chris Newens (Profile £18.99 pp368). To order a copy go to Free UK standard P&P on online orders over £25. Special discount available for Times+ members
The Independent
17 hours ago
- The Independent
Sri Lanka travel guide: Everything to know before you go
Sri Lanka can be best described as south Asia in miniature form, filled with beaches, elephants, tea plantations, curries, sacred rituals, colourful ceremonies, and most of all, warmly welcoming people. Hailed as the 'Pearl of the Indian Ocean' and the 'Teardrop of India ', this ancient island nation has long been celebrated – and coveted – for its abundant landscapes, strategic significance, and rare beauty. Sri Lanka's past is remarkably well preserved, despite years of unrest and strife. From Victorian-era colonial clubs to centuries-old Buddhist temples, layer after layer of Sri Lankan history is within reach. Its natural heritage is rich, too. Ten national parks provide sanctuary for sloth bears to sambars, leopards to lorises, and of course plenty of elephants. For such a small island (roughly the size of Ireland), the diversity here is striking – you can climb mist-robed mountains, surf silvery shores, trek through abundant jungle, all in the same day. Sri Lanka's cities have that frenetic, cheerful chaos common to Asian cities, whether it's Colombo 's colonial grandeur or Kandy's exalted lakeside lifestyle. Either way, the coast's serenity is never far, with some of the finest beaches in the world ready to embrace you: champagne-coloured sand, palms in regal repose, and the tropical waters of the Indian Ocean. Best time to go It depends on what you're looking for. Thanks to its dual monsoon pattern, December-April tends to be best for beaches and wildlife excursions on the south and west of the island, while the dry months of May-September unlock access to the north and east. Each side has its pick of stunning locations, and if you want to see both (without getting drenched) then September-October and April are the shoulder seasons for you, offering cooler temperatures, fewer tourists and excellent hiking opportunities. April coincides with the local new year celebrations, so be wary of increased congestion on the transport networks. Top cities and regions Kandy Kandy is Sri Lanka's beating heart: Holy town, hilltop enclave, and spiritual centre. Sri Lanka's ancient customs and natural beauty come together here, with temples, shrines and palaces reflected in the glassy surface of the lake, hugged by hills as green as any you'll ever see. Take the Main Line train from Colombo, wind your way up the mountains, and enjoy one of the world's most celebrated railway rides. Kandy is where Sri Lanka's kings resided, and it's easy to see why; today, the entirety of Kandy is a Unesco World Heritage site. Despite the crowds, be sure to visit the Temple of the Sacred Tooth, Sri Lanka's greatest religious relic, and said to be from the Buddha's own mouth. While you can't see the tooth itself – only the case is on display – the temple itself is beautiful, with many chambers, galleries and artefacts. Go in the evening to witness the prayers and the candlelight. Further along the train line is Ella, where the British plantation owners once resided, and home to Ella Rock, whose summit is a challenging but reasonable hike (three–four hours). Whitewashed, manicured, and orderly, Galle feels like a prestigious Mediterranean seaside resort. No wonder: it was founded by the Portuguese and expanded by the Dutch. Galle's architecture and atmosphere have a distinctly European feel, from the prim and proper lighthouse to the austere Protestant churches. Gone are the laid-back surfer vibes of Weligama and Marisa, replaced by well-to-do couples, fashionable boutiques, and candlelit dinners. Explore the well-preserved fort by daylight before taking a stroll down the tranquil lanes and avenues of the town itself. The seafood food is spectacular, the bars plentiful, and the nights balmy and untroubled. Just don't expect much nightlife. Colombo Crowded, frenetic, and choked up, Colombo used to be dismissed as merely the place from which to fly in and out. But Colombo has history, culture and excellent food. If you're keen on colonial history, the city boasts some of the best-preserved architecture from anywhere in the former British Empire. If not, there are plenty of temples, museums, and shrines besides. Hop on a tuk-tuk and explore an anthology of Sri Lanka's past: the mind-melting stripes of Jami Ul-Alfar mosque; the statues of the Gangaramaya (Vihara) Buddhist temple; and St Anthony's Shrine, a Catholic church illuminated at night. Gathering these cultural riches is the Colombo National Museum, the biggest in Sri Lanka and featuring over 100,000 artefacts. Anuradhapura and Sigiriya The ancient city of Anuradhapura was abandoned in the 13th century, and was overgrown by jungle until the 19 th century. Since then, it has flourished as a site for both Buddhist pilgrims and tourists, who flock to see the shrines and relics. One of the most visited is a sacred pipal tree, planted in 245BC from a cutting of the Bo tree, under which it's said the Buddha attained enlightenment. It's recognised as the oldest cultivated tree in the world. Even more iconic are the Dagobas, the wide-domed Buddhist temples that dominate the city. Ruwanwelisaya, the oldest and the grandest, can get crowded. Instead, go wherever the ceremonies are taking place. Outside of the city lies Mihintale, a hilltop where the first Buddhist monastery is said to have converted a Sri Lankan king and his hunting party. The view from the peak of the hills is spectacular, but go at sunrise rather than sunset, or prepare to huddle among couples. Just over an hour away is Sigiriya, a rock formation featuring an ancient fortress. It's another Unesco site, and possibly the single most popular attraction in the country. Although entry is a little pricey (£25 for foreign visitors), it's worth it. You'll see ancient frescoes, the centuries-old Mirror Wall, and the enormous – scarcely-believable – lion's paws guarding the summit (the remains of what was originally a towering stone lion). It's 350-odd metres to the summit, so wear your exercise gear and prepare to sweat. Arugam Bay and Kumana National Park Sri Lanka isn't short of beaches. The crescent-moon sands of Arugam Bay are among the best. While Weligama, Mirissa, and Hikkaduwa have more of a party vibe, Arugam Bay's tranquil beauty is better suited to relaxing. Pitched on the unspoilt east coast, the waves are best between May and October – when the rest of Sri Lanka is beset by monsoon rains and ocean currents. Arugam Bay's thatched huts and sleepy shoreline is one of the finest places to get away from it all. The waves at Main Point are some of the best in Sri Lanka. When you're ready to explore again, hail a tuk-tuk and head to Kumana National Park. Unlike Yala, its famous neighbour, Kumana National Park retains much more of its wilderness – less zoo, more sanctuary. It's especially good for bird spotting, with hundreds of species nesting there. A guide is included with entry, which means you can't tour the park alone, but they're such good spotters that it makes for a much better experience. Best under-the-radar destinations Jaffna Until recently, the north of Sri Lanka was scarcely visited due to the 25-year civil war, with the Tamil-controlled northern regions engulfed in conflict. With the war long since over, travellers are returning to Jaffna, the biggest city in the north and previously completely inaccessible. India is the cultural force here, not the Singhalese of Sri Lanka, and you immediately sense the difference. Language, food, atmosphere are all south Indian; Tamil rather than Sinhalese, masala dhosa rather than kottu roti, Shiva rather than Buddha. The biggest Hindu temple in Sri Lanka, Nallur Kandaswamy, is as vibrant and impressive as any in India, and if you're hazy about the differences between Hinduism and Buddhism, exploring Nallur Kandaswamy after being in the south will sharpen you up. Jaffna's fort is smaller than Galle's but is much less crowded, and especially beautiful at sunset. And fewer tourists means the locals are less accustomed to dealing with foreigners, though no less welcoming. Wilpattu National Park It's Sri Lanka's biggest national park, dominating the north-west coast, but Wilpattu has an undiscovered, secretive feel. While more popular national parks have 'Disneyfied' the wildlife experience, with viewing stations, zoo-like enclosures, and money-making animal encounters, Wilpattu is wilderness proper. If you want to pat an elephant and get a hundred likes for it, stick to Yala; if you want to lose yourself in dense woodland – quietly sighting a spotted deer, sloth bear or leopard – then Wilpattu is unsurpassed. Check into one of the forest lodges in the park, stick your jodhpurs on and experience a traditional safari game drive around the park. Trincomalee Given the sheer beauty of its glittering bay, it's a wonder that Trincomalee isn't better-known. Head over to the north-east coast and dip into a miniature world all of its own: tropical beaches bunched together like ripe fruit, shrines where the centuries peel away to reveal age-old rituals, and lagoon water as clear as crushed crystal. Half a dozen of Trincomalee's beaches could make a strong claim for best on the island. Crack open a coconut, kick off your sandals, and luxuriate in the sunshine. When you're ready to amble, there's a colonial-era fort, historic temples, and rocky outcrops where you can spot blue whales. Best things to do Take the train deep into the tea plantations Whatever else you get up to in Sri Lanka, make absolutely sure that you take the Main Line train from Colombo to Kandy, and then from Kandy all the way to Ella. It takes eight hours or more, but this is one of those journeys that's worth savouring. The train climbs inland from the coast, cutting through rock, farmland and jungle. You'll travel across mountains veiled in mist, hillsides carpeted with tea leaves, and imposing brick-arched bridges from another era. If you fancy a cocktail and a party, stay on until at Ella; if you want a cup of tea and tranquillity, get off at Nuwara Eliyah. Get a taste of surf culture Surfing can be tough, physically draining, and utterly, blissfully exhausting. Getting on a board is daunting, especially when surrounded by confident surfers strutting about, so find a school that's right for you. Although Weligama is the surf hotspot, there are less crowded (and much prettier) places to learn all along the south coast, such as Mirissa, Ahangama, or Unawatuna, which are also great for beginners. While you can surf just for the day, it takes some getting used to, so if you have the time check into a surf camp for a few days. Plunging into the sea every morning, feeling the pump and force of the waves, and collapsing on the sands in happy fatigue afterwards is a rewarding, nourishing, and vital experience – especially if you combine it with some yoga. Plus, there is no appetite quite like the one worked up on a surfboard, so when you finally sit down for your coconut curry it'll taste even better. Get up close to wildlife Many conservation projects in Sri Lanka are preserving wildlife sustainably while also giving you unparalleled access. Since the early 1990s, numbers of elephants, leopards, and other endangered species have risen considerably, and sustainable tourism has helped. The Smithsonian Primate Research Station, near Polonnaruwa, is the oldest of its kind in the world and Bundala's flamingo-filled wetlands are a Unesco biosphere reserve. The safaris in the national parks – Wilpattu, Udawalawe, and Wasgamuwa – rival almost anything in Africa. Getting around Travelling by train isn't just convenient, it's also a quintessential journey through Sri Lanka's history and a window unto its landscapes, and is also very cheap. For short journeys, it has to be tuk-tuk. Individually decorated, stubbornly persistent and formidably cheap, travelling by tuk-tuk quickly becomes addictive. It's not always comfortable, especially if you squeeze three or more into the backseat, but it's a great way to chat to locals and get the wind in your hair. Agree the fee in advance, especially in tourist areas, but remember the country has just come off suffering from a fuel crisis – if you can afford to fork out an extra hundred rupees, do it. Otherwise, when you need that 6am ride to the airport or that drive down from the mountains to the coast, book a taxi. Many tuk-tuk drivers also have cars, so ask ahead about a taxi service. Roads are generally well maintained and safe, but driving can be erratic. How to get there Sri Lankan Airways offer direct flights between London and Colombo. Other airlines offer stopovers, often in Doha or Dubai. Money-saving tip Travel and food are cheap in Sri Lanka, but accommodation is comparatively expensive. Alcohol is pricey, too – this is a conservative island, and the drinking culture is much less raucous here than in the rest of south-east Asia. There's no real hostel culture either, so the best value are the guesthouses, which are often family-run and very friendly. If you want the full-on luxury experience, Sri Lanka offers an enviable abundance of Western opulence – at Western prices, so book in advance. Tipping isn't expected, but haggling very much is. Friendly negotiation is part of the transaction here, so get stuck in. Current travel restrictions and entry requirements The Department of Immigration and Emigration has a online embarkation form. Foreign nationals can complete the online form three days prior to arrival in Sri Lanka. The service is free of charge. All visitors are advised to apply online for an Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) to enter Sri Lanka; you can apply for on the ETA website. As entry requirements are liable to change, check the UK's Foreign Office's travel advice website before any travel for updates. FAQs What's the weather like? Thanks to its ocean winds, Sri Lanka is tropical and enjoyably warm most of the year round, with coastal temperatures averaging around 28C and upland areas averaging between 16-20C. The island experiences a dual monsoon, affecting one side of the island at a time. The south-western region and central highlands receive most of the island's rainfall, whilst the north and the east experience a distinct dry season from May to September. Take a jacket – the evenings can get chilly. What time zone is it in? Sri Lanka Standard Time, GMT+5:30 What currency do I need? The Sri Lankan rupee. You can get hold of these before travel, or you can exchange or withdraw some after arrival. Exchanging at the airport will be more expensive, but it's also a reliable 24/7 service and a good place to set yourself up for the next few days. Although card payments are growing increasingly popular, most small shops, local restaurants and markets still aren't set up for it, so make sure you always have cash on you. What language is spoken? The primary language of Sri Lanka is Sinhala, although in the north Tamil is widely spoken. You'll find English spoken by many, particularly as the language of commerce.
