I fell in love with Japan's fourth biggest city – and its lesser-known neighbour
All horrified, our tour guide explained that in Japan, body positivity is strongly encouraged, the aging body is celebrated, and we should all view ourselves as equal and beautiful. Who can argue with that? Off came the clothes.
And so the tone was set for InsideJapan's curated tour that intentionally veers off the beaten track.
Exploring one of the most beautiful countries in the world, from the pristine streets of overpopulated cities, to the shacks hidden amongst the mountains that make up 80% of Japan's landmass, we were met with modesty and humility that made you fall in love with the place and its people over and over again.
Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here.
We start in Nagoya, Japan's lesser-known fourth-largest city. Often overlooked by tourists, it is easy to reach from the UK with just a single connection in Helsinki, and a great base from which to explore.
After a late night arrival and a comfortable night on the 32nd floor of Hotel Prince Sky Tower, we woke early to enjoy the sweeping views of the city and a hotel breakfast served by robots, before boarding the first of many trains to head thirty minutes North to Inuyama.
Home to the oldest castle in Japan, a place where 3,000 castles once stood, most were dismantled in the 19th century when Samurai rule came to an end; nearly all the rest were destroyed during World War II.
Now only 12 remain. Standing proud atop a hill overlooking the Kiso River, your reward for the steep climb to the summit is the spectacular view.
Back to Nagoya and the chance to check out the Osu Shopping District, 1,700 metres of arcades hosting more than 1,200 businesses that sell almost anything you can imagine.
My attention is grabbed by vintage kimonos and decadent street food, from miso-glazed pork sticks to matcha custard donuts.
I stumble upon a shop bursting with beautiful ceramics, think Zara home for a fraction of the price. Japanese homewares are big business on Instagram, with videos of delicate plates and coffee cups racking up hundreds of thousands of views. https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-bkayZvYPo/?igsh=MXR6bGtodWtrbmhraA==
Time once again to escape the big city, this time on a longer train to Hida Furukawa, two and a half hours of winding journey along the Nagara River. Endless shades of green roll by, mountainous peaks fading into mist as paddy fields glisten in the sun.
I gaze out the window and adjust my seat for a better view (because of course, train seats swivel in Japan).
This doesn't feel like getting from A to B, which is the kind of travel I'm used to in the UK. This feels like a highlight of the trip.
Disembarking at Hida Furukawa feels like stepping back in time. A stark contrast to the bustling city we'd left behind, here there are canal-lined streets filled with koi carp, dappled in sunlight by thick rows of cherry trees.
An occasional car hums along the almost deserted streets, but a horse and cart wouldn't look out of place. This is a place famed for its timber and talented carpenters, whose workshops line the alleyways.
We pass an elderly candle maker who beams at us through his open shopfront; I imagine he's sat in that very spot for the past seventy years, perfecting his craft.
Lunch at Fukuzenji Soba is handmade soba noodles with locally brewed beer. Steam rises from our soups into sunbeams floating through the open windows, and as I perch on my tiny wooden chair, I once again feel as though I've walked straight into the Samurai equivalent of the Wild West.
Another day, another train ride, this time the one I've been waiting for.
The bullet train, 80 miles in half an hour and barely enough time to eat my carefully selected Japanese train snacks, with ears freshly popped we arrive in Kyoto. Japan's third largest city, and arguably the most beautiful, my expectations are high.
Whether it's culture and history or a late night fuelled by sake and Karaoke,Kyoto's got you covered. We kick things off with what our guide describes as 'a hidden gem'.
Eikan-Do Temple, a gift from a court noble to a Buddhist priest built more than one thousand years ago. Most popular with visitors in autumn when the maple trees put on their finest display, our visit falls in early summer, in the midst of a tropical downpour. And still, we are all blown away.
Nestled high, almost hidden among a thicket of trees, it feels like the kind of construction that inspired a Grand Designs house: indoor-outdoor living, endless curves and beautifully carved wood. If tranquillity was a place, we found it.
Flying from London to Nagoya via Helsinki sounded intimidating at first. Connecting flights, fifteen hours in the air. I've done similar before and found myself exhausted with a suspected neck strain from resting my head on… absolutely nothing. Not this time.
Finnair Business Class was an enjoyable experience from start to finish. A glass of Champagne in the lounge and a private pod to myself. A varied menu of delicious food to be paired with a curated selection of wines.
The only 'problem' was that I was so comfortable, fed and watered, I couldn't stay awake long enough to make my way through more than one of the many films on offer.
Flights with Finnair from London Heathrow to Nagoya with a connection in Helsinki start from £800 in economy, £1,561 in premium economy and £2,827 in business.
Our base is The Thousand Kyoto, a minimalist hotel that prides itself on sustainability. Bee hives adorn the roof, and art installations the lobby. Almost too modern for me, it takes an embarrassingly long time to work out the blind is drawn via the in-room iPad.
I wake on the final morning in true Japanese style, to a frantic phone alarm warning an earthquake is imminent. It tells me to stay calm. As I definitely do not stay calm and panic about what to do, the shaking starts.
Luckily though, it doesn't last long, and to regain the zen that until that point had followed us everywhere, we head to the world-famous Bamboo Forest, truly a sight to behold.
I've seen my fair share of nature's finest displays, trailing through forests and into the depths of far-flung jungles. But the feeling of meandering along a path of bamboo shoots up to 50 metres high, slowly swaying in the wind, will stay with me forever. More Trending
Japan has always been on my bucket list, and it remains on my bucket list.
I barely scratched the surface and yet every expectation I had was exceeded. A country full of beauty, history and humility. I fell deeply in love and plan to return again and again and again.
Late March through May, for cherry blossom season (but expect huge crowds).
June and July, for Tokyo's famous fireworks (during rainy season, it's also one of the cheapest periods to travel).
September, for hiking through forests that burst into a kaleidoscope of colour in autumn.
Ella Millward was a guest of InsideJapan. She stayed at Nagoya Prince Sky Tower, Tokyu Stay Hida-Takayama and The Thousand Kyoto.
This article was originally published February 2, 2025 .
Do you have a story to share?
Get in touch by emailing MetroLifestyleTeam@Metro.co.uk.
MORE: Chasing waterfalls and a Great Blue Hole, I fell hard for 'The Jewel'
MORE: Forget the Med — I swapped the sun for a spectacular Scandinavian train ride
MORE: A weekend in Brighton through the eyes of a child
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Scottish Sun
3 hours ago
- Scottish Sun
Brazen YouTube ‘coaches' teaching thousands of migrants how to bring their WHOLE families to UK using little-known visa
More than 25,000 migrants have come to the UK on small boats this year IMMIGRATION 'LOOPHOLE' Brazen YouTube 'coaches' teaching thousands of migrants how to bring their WHOLE families to UK using little-known visa Click to share on X/Twitter (Opens in new window) Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window) BRAZEN Youtube coaches are teaching thousands of migrants on how to bring their whole family to the UK using a little-known visa scheme. It comes as 25,000 migrants have come to the UK on small boats this year, a record number since the crisis began in 2018. Sign up for Scottish Sun newsletter Sign up 4 More than 25,000 migrants have been recorded arriving across the Channel so far this year Credit: PA 4 Kelvin Ossai is a self proclaimed "lifestyle and relocation content creator" on YouTube who offers advice on the charity visa route Credit: Instagram/@officialkelvinossai/ Immigration lawyers are also posting videos online coaching potential migrants on how to submit asylum applications that almost "almost always win" by claiming they've changed religion. But the little-known charity visa allows foreigners to volunteer in the UK for up to a year. In a series of online videos it is explained how the charity visa can be used as "leverage" to bring dependents with them to stay for the long-term. The number of migrants arriving via the route is growing and the government has a list of 1,400 charities that sponsor visas with many being churches and other religious organisations. Kelvin Ossai from Nigeria is a self proclaimed "lifestyle and relocation content creator" on YouTube who offers advice on the charity visa route. In a video seen more than 23,000 times, he explains how it can be used as "leverage to bring your family into the UK". Ossai describes how dependants can work as a "catch" in the rules, detailing how those on the charity visas can get stipends and money from other sources. 'Most churches in the UK are charity organisations," he says. "Most of them have the license to sponsor you on a charity visa - don't say I told you this." He also explains in his videos that while charity workers cannot receive a formal salary, there are still ways for them to receive money. 25K migrants have arrived across the Channel so far this year despite Labour's promise to crackdown He says: 'Even if you're working for them for free, your employer can also give you stipends and pay for your transport. 'They can provide you free accommodation, give you stipends for feeding and all that but it will not be classed as a salary.' He also details how the year can be extended while people on student visa may find it easier to remain in the country via the charity route rather than a work visa. Ossai told The Sun: "My videos are created to inform and guide skilled professionals on how they can legally move to the UK through existing government-approved visa routes, particularly those targeting shortage occupations. "What I'm building is a community of skilled migrants who come to the UK legally, work in areas where they're needed, and live productive lives. I always encourage ethical migration. "Nothing in my content promotes shortcuts or misuse of the system. It's all about helping people find opportunities that already exist legally. "My goal has always been to support ethical migration—helping people understand the rules, follow them, and give back while building a life here." Each applicant via the charity visa, including their partner and any dependants, must pay £319 on top of an annual healthcare surcharge and prove they have at least £1,270 in savings. The YouTubers claim that it is cheaper than other routes and while the main applicant cannot do paid work, dependants can. Tochi Esther, another YouTuber with 180,000 subscribers, makes videos about "life in the UK". In one video she interviews a woman who moved her family into the country using the charity visa route. The woman explains that while the visa doesn't allow paid employment, there are still ways to make money and work towards staying in the UK permanently. In the video, the interviewee explains how charities will pay a stipend for food and transportation while some will even provide accommodation. They also outline how those on the visa can do 20 hours of voluntary work with organisations other than their visa sponsor. 'Luckily for me as a volunteer working in the nursery, I was being paid as a volunteer," they said. You still get paid as a volunteer, so I still get paid somehow. "My husband can do any type of work … he works anywhere and as many hours as possible.' The video has since been made private but The Sun contacted Esther who said her videos are based entirely on information published by the UK government. "I do not offer immigration advice, as my videos come with a disclaimer stating my content is strictly informational, summarizing official updates in a more accessible format, similar to what is already reported by public media outlets," she said. "While I do highlight changes to legal UK visa routes as announced by the government, I always emphasize that viewers should consult qualified immigration professionals or rely on official government guidance for any personal decisions." Immigration lawyers have also been coaching asylum seekers on how to submit applications that "almost always win". Sherissa Cupid-Bennett, who describes herself as a UK-based immigration lawyer, told her followers that one of the most reliable methods for claiming asylum was to submit a claim on the basis "you converted from Islam to another religion". One of her videos is titled "3 types of asylum claims with the best chance of success" where she explains how as long as immigration officers believe they are telling the truth about converting from Islam, they are almost always certain to win the claim. There is no indication that she is coaching applicants to lie or any other suggestion of wrongdoing. Cupid-Bennett has been contacted for comment as have the Home Office. The news of these brazen YouTubers comes amid protests over the weekend outside a controversial migrant hotel. Mothers and children dressed in pink protested outside the four-star Britannia International Hotel in Canary Wharf on Saturday — before masked yobs hijacked the event and clashed with police. 4 Women made their point on the peaceful pink protest march at the weekend Credit: Louis Wood
Wales Online
4 hours ago
- Wales Online
'Most beautiful café in the world' where thousands of tourists queue for hours
'Most beautiful café in the world' where thousands of tourists queue for hours The café in Budapest is hailed as the 'most beautiful in the world' and it's easy to see why The café was built in an Italian Renaissance style (Image: Getty) Picture a café where customers visit for the stunning interior rather than the coffee itself. A venue so magnificent that it draws crowds of Instagram enthusiasts - striking poses for social media acclaim. This is the New York Café in Budapest, where the boasting sign outside proclaims it as "the most beautiful café in the world" and it's genuinely difficult to dispute this claim. This lavish 125-year-old establishment draws thousands of visitors and photography-obsessed TikTok users who gather here to admire its extravagant rococo styling featuring marble pillars, breathtaking frescoes, and crystal lighting fixtures. Picture entering a setting taken directly from a magnificent European Royal residence — picture ornate frescoes, sparkling chandeliers, and imposing marble pillars. It's akin to walking into a time capsule from the luxurious Belle Époque period (which translates to the "Beautiful Age" in French). Visiting the café is like stepping back in time (Image: Portia Jones) The New York Café proves immensely popular amongst tourists, serving approximately 2,000 patrons each day with lengthy queues stretching along the street, reports the Mirror. Situated on Erzsébet körút Street, the café originally opened in 1894 and was conceived by Hungarian architect Alajos Hauszmann. It began life as the Hungarian base for the New York Life Insurance Company, whose owners wanted a coffee house within the building. The café's internal design was executed by Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl, who incorporated Italian Renaissance influences throughout. The ceiling features elaborate frescoes created by artists Gusztav Mannheimer and Ferenc Eisenhut. Hungarian coffee culture Throughout the 20th century, the New York Café underwent various transformations and served different purposes. In its heyday, the New York Café was the vibrant hub of Budapest's literary and artistic circles. It was a gathering place for writers, poets, and intellectuals to exchange ideas, pen their thoughts, and seek inspiration. The café also held a significant position in Hungary's coffeehouse culture, which was a cornerstone of the city's social and intellectual fabric. Places like the New York Café were the lifeblood of Hungarian coffee culture, where the art of conversation and idea exchange were as valued as the coffee itself. However, the café's fortunes took a turn with the advent of World War II and the ensuing decades of upheaval. It fell into a state of disrepair and at one point was even turned into a sports goods shop. The café was a key location in Hungarian coffee culture (Image: Portia Jones) But that's not where the story ends. In 2006, following a painstaking restoration, the New York Café was resurrected, reclaiming its status as an emblem of Budapest's rich cultural legacy. The New York Café menu offers a blend of Hungarian and international dishes, decadent cakes, and freshly brewed coffee. Afternoon tea for two is priced around €72.50, and main courses vary from €23 to €36. It's one of the prime spots to sample Hungarian cakes, including Dobos Torte, a traditional Hungarian cake with layers of sponge and chocolate buttercream topped with caramel; Sacher Torte, a rich chocolate cake with a layer of apricot jam; and Opera Cake, featuring layers of almond sponge, coffee buttercream, and chocolate ganache. The food and drink are served with a creative flair, though opinions vary, and its steep prices often draw criticism from Trip Advisor reviewers. If you're not bothered about spending a bit more, why not try their 24-carat gold cappuccino, accompanied by Valrhona chocolate and raspberry cake, for an indulgent start to your day. The food and drink can be pricey - but it's a unique experience (Image: Portia Jones) Location The Cafe is actually nestled within the historic 5* Anantara New York Palace Budapest Hotel, a magnificent accommodation in the heart of Hungary's capital. The 19th-century grandeur and Italian Renaissance style have been seamlessly merged with contemporary elements to provide a luxurious city stay. Article continues below Within this grand and historic building, you'll discover a modern hotel boasting 185 rooms, a cave spa and high-end vary in price and size, ranging from classic and superior to suites, and are elegantly adorned with plush Italian furnishings and sleek mod-cons. Their gourmet buffet breakfast is particularly noteworthy. It showcases a generous array of locally sourced produce, including pastries, pancakes, cold cuts, cheese, and eggs cooked to order. Just keep an eye out for those taking selfies.
Time Out
5 hours ago
- Time Out
JR East is raising its prices starting in March 2026
As we all know, Tokyo has one of the best public transport systems in the world. Unfortunately, maintaining that standard requires serious moolah, and passengers will soon feel the effects. According to Japan Today, JR East announced on August 1 it will be increasing its fares starting March 2026, a move that somewhat incredibly marks the company's first price increase since its founding in 1987 (consumption tax increases notwithstanding). The railway operator had applied for government approval to raise fees as early as last December, when Executive Vice President Chiharu Wataru announced his company must 'spend effort and money on safe railway operations'. The increases are estimated to bring in ¥88.1 billion in revenue annually – money that JR means to invest in equipment and repairs, as well as use to raise wages for staff and offset rising operational costs. On average, fares will rise by 7.1%, with the base fare for central Tokyo's Yamanote Line increasing ¥10, from ¥150 to ¥160. As always, IC card users will have slightly lower rates compared to paper ticket holders (between ¥8 and ¥9 increase), so we recommend getting yourself one of those to save a yen or two. If you're a bit of a stickler for paperwork, you can find the full Japanese report on the increase here.
