16 of the best Italian cities for food

Times

13 hours ago

Few cuisines spark such instant recognition, or whet the appetite, as Italian. This is a country where even the simplest of meals are memories in the making: from handmade pasta and wood-fired pizza to rich espresso and smooth gelato. And while these staples, steeped in tradition and expertise, can be discovered easily on any trip, look closer and you'll see a hyper-regional mosaic of flavours, shaped by geography, history and family ties.
Think cicchetti bar snacks in Venice, truffles in Piedmont, spicy 'nduja sausage in Calabria and cannoli pastries in Sicily. No wonder the Italian government has applied to Unesco for its cuisine to be recognised for its cultural heritage: it's not just a menu, it's a way of life. With so much on the table, we've narrowed it down to some of the cities that showcase it best — and the dishes you can't leave without trying.
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Best for gianduiotti
The former capital of the Duchy of Savoy, elegant Turin has a centuries-long love affair with chocolate. The city is the birthplace of gianduja, a velvety blend of cocoa and hazelnuts created when Napoleon's embargo made cacao scarce. That stroke of genius led to gianduiotti — gold-wrapped chocolates that became a royal favourite. It's a fact that nearly every piazza in Turin has a historic café and they're often the birthplace of a local speciality — from vermouth to the custardy dessert zabaione. For a true taste of Turin, don't miss a bicerin — an espresso layered with hot chocolate and topped with cream — at its namesake 18th-century café that has welcomed the likes of Nietzsche. Chocolate shops here look like jewellery stores: add Guido Gobino, Guido Castagna and the renowned Baratti & Milano, whose Liberty-style salon feels like stepping back into a royal era, to your don't-miss list. Sleep it all off at Turin Palace Hotel, which is elegant and chic, with a sweeping rooftop terrace for aperitivo, a sumptuous breakfast and a serene spa.
Best for truffles and barolo
In the middle of a landscape of rolling hills blanketed in vineyards, Alba is a mecca for food lovers — and not just in autumn, when its famous truffle fair draws crowds from around the world. This is the land of barolo and barbaresco, noble reds that age with grace and pair effortlessly with the region's rich cuisine. Truffles are the star, yes, but it's the everyday recipes — tajarin pasta with butter and sage, vitello tonnato (veal in tuna sauce), brasati (slow-cooked beef dishes) — that capture the soul of Piedmontese cooking. From rustic trattorias to the three-Michelin-starred kitchen of Enrico Crippa, Alba offers a full spectrum of flavours rooted in history and terroir. And when the fog settles over the vineyards, glass in hand, it's easy to see why this corner of Italy is simply unforgettable. Stay at Casa di Langa, a luxury retreat with sustainable credentials in the hills of Piedmont's prime wine region. Enjoy cooking classes, wine tastings and an all-natural spa.
Best for cicchettiTo get a true flavour of Venice, explore the city on a giro d'ombra — a Venetian version of a pub crawl. Throughout the city, especially in the San Polo and Cannaregio districts, you'll find hole-in-the-wall bars called bacari, where you can fill up on tapas-like cicchetti. A plate of these delicious morsels, including bread covered in everything from prosciutto and gorgonzola to creamy salt cod, goes beautifully with a glass of the local wine. Whet your appetite by browsing the Rialto market by the Grand Canal with its stalls selling fish, fruit and vegetables. Ca' di Dio, a 13th-century former pilgrim shelter reimagined as a luxury hotel by architect Patricia Urquiola, makes the ideal base — think historic soul meets 21st-century design.
Best for risotto Italy's most forward-thinking city has always been a master of reinvention, and food is no exception. From rooftop cocktail bars with skyline views to heritage dishes reimagined with flair, Milan's culinary identity is a study in contrasts. The saffron-flavoured risotto alla Milanese remains the city's signature dish, often paired with the heartier ossobuco. The southern Ticinese district buzzes at aperitivo time, from about 6pm, and from here you can head north of the centre to Isola, which has a dizzying range of places to eat. The city's outskirts are dotted with historic cascine — working farms reimagined by a new generation of chefs and farmers. Here, sustainability isn't a buzzword, it's a quiet, determined movement that runs through farmers' markets, urban gardens and menus shaped by what's in season. Base yourself at Portrait Milano, a Ferragamo-owned hotel in a former seminary — and one of the most prestigious spots in Milan's fashion district.
Best for tortellini
Nicknamed La Grassa (the fat one), Bologna is Italy's capital of indulgence. This is the home of tortellini and tortelloni — not to mention tagliatelle al ragu, which bears little resemblance to the British iteration of spaghetti bolognese. Dive into the Quadrilatero, a maze of medieval lanes off Piazza Maggiore, where market stalls and cafés are tucked under arches and offer a tantalising introduction to the city's cuisine. To cut through the richness of the food, wash it down with lambrusco, the local sparkling red wine. And treat yourself to gelato — so good they even have a university devoted to making it just outside the city. Opt for the Grand Hotel Majestic gia Baglioni, in an 18th-century palazzo with Venetian-style rooms, Carracci frescoes and a prime location a few minutes' walk from Piazza Maggiore.
Best for balsamic vinegarWhat is a meal in Italy without a pre-appetiser basket of ciabatta, rosemary focaccia or Tuscan bread served alongside a cruet? Olive oil is mandatory, of course, but the real joy is in dipping and dousing the dough in treacle-sweet black balsamic that explodes with a flavour best described as liquid alchemy. The slow-aged grape must is the champagne of vinegars — the genuine article produced only in Modena. And just think: what would a classic caprese be without its dribbly tang? Continue the culinary theme with a stay at Casa Maria Luigia, an 18th-century country retreat run by the Italian chef Massimo Bottura and his wife, restaurateur Lara Gilmore. Expect timeless charm and contemporary flair.
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Best for Parma ham and parmesan These well-known meats and cheeses are reasons to visit alone — but then there's Culatello di Zibello, a highly prized ham that's made in only eight villages of the Po Valley. In this cultured city, home of the Verdi Festival, they also take aperitivo hour seriously. One of the best places to indulge in this ritual, during the early evening stroll known as the passeggiata, is along Strada Luigi Carlo Farini just off Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. Stay at Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati, a charming historic property a mere stroll from the cathedral square, offering some of the finest views of the city.
Best for farinataLiguria's capital is said to be where pesto and even focaccia originated. In the narrow streets of the city's historic centre, known as caruggi, there's no shortage of tiny cafés where you can snack on focaccia and farinata, a savoury chickpea pancake; the area also teems with trattorias serving favourites such as pesto with trofie pasta, or the ravioli-like pansoti with walnut sauce. An old town highlight is the huge Mercato Orientale, whose Michelin-star worthy market stalls show off the best Ligurian olives, fresh pastas, meats and so much more. Book a room at the 16th-century Hotel Palazzo Grillo, where sleek design blends seamlessly with the vaulted ceilings and frescoes. It's part of the Palazzi dei Rolli, a clutch of Unesco-listed former aristocratic residences.
Best for steak and gelato
Tuscany's capital has a long history of gastronomy, and it's easy to see when you wander past the mouthwatering stalls at the Mercato Centrale, Florence's main indoor food market. While the olive is king, its prince is the bistecca alla Fiorentina — juicy T-bone steak traditionally made from native chianina beef. It's often served with cannellini beans — another Tuscan staple. Robust chianti reds go perfectly with plates of pappardelle in a wild boar sauce. Check out the restaurants in the Sant'Ambrogio and Santa Croce districts, along with the neighbourhood haunts across the River Arno in Oltrarno. As for dessert, legend has it that gelato was invented here, so you know you'll get some of the best scoops in Italy. Book into the Hoxton Florence on the northern edge of the old town, where the brand's signature cool meets Florentine flair.
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Best for no-nonsense, comforting pastaConsidering the wealth of history and art that fills the Italian capital, Roman cuisine is surprisingly simple. Carbonara, amatriciana and cacio e pepe are the holy trinity of Roman comfort food and rule the menus. Immerse yourself in authentic flavours at Testaccio food market among its 100 or so stalls; and you won't want to miss the spectacle of the morning market at Campo de' Fiori. Join the locals for dinner at the laidback restaurants of the Trastevere district across the River Tiber, or in the lesser-known Monti area stretching north from the Colosseum. Make a weekend of it at Palazzo Talia, its renaissance splendour reimagined with cinematic flair by the filmmaker and designer Luca Guadagnino.
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Best for arrosticini meat skewers Between the Apennines and the Adriatic, Teramo is a delicious pocket of Abruzzo where food is hearty, humble and fiercely local. Think arrosticini — skewers of mutton or lamb, grilled over coals and eaten with your hands. They are served everywhere, from roadside stalls to family barbecues. This is also a land of epic pasta. Spaghetti alla chitarra is cut on wire-stringed frames and comes topped with a rich mutton sauce; while Sunday tables groan under the weight of timballo (a style of pasta bake) and trays of pallotte cace e ove (addictive cheese and egg balls swimming in tomato sauce). It's food born from tradition, portioned with generosity and served with mountain-sized pride. Wash it all down with a glass of montepulciano d'Abruzzo, the region's signature red — robust, rustic and as comforting as the dishes it pairs with. Stay at Villa Corallo, a 19th-century stone mansion in bucolic grounds with just seven contemporary suites. The on-site organic farm supplies the hotel's restaurant with olive oil, meat and vegetables.
Best for pasta frittersIt's not all about the pizza in Naples, but it's a good place to start. San Marzano tomatoes, creamy mozzarella and basil go into the classic Neapolitan pizza — just as wonderful eaten on the street as it is sitting in a cosy trattoria. For more street food, the Pignasecca Market tempts with stalls selling deep-fried calamari, whitebait, artichokes and frittatine di pasta (pasta fritters). Among the seafood restaurants of the classy Chiaia waterfront district, you'll find another local speciality: spaghetti alle vongole (clams). Finish it off with limoncello made from lemons picked along the Amalfi coast. Soak up the coastal views from sleek and contemporary Romeo Napoli, which has a rooftop infinity pool and a panorama from Capri to Mount Vesuvius.
Best for cucina povera and pasticciottoBaroque beauty meets rustic soul in Lecce, a sun-drenched city on the Salentine peninsula — better known as Italy's heel. This is where cucina povera — humble, resourceful 'peasant cooking' born out of hardship — becomes an art form. Expect dishes built on just a few honest ingredients, such as orecchiette with cime di rapa (ear-shaped pasta with turnip greens and anchovies); and fava bean purée with wild chicory. Lecce also has a sweet tooth — don't leave without biting into a pasticciotto, the city's signature pastry. Golden and crumbly on the outside, yet warm and creamy on the inside, this custard-filled delight is a local obsession. Try it at Natale Pasticceria or Caffe Alvino, two beloved local institutions. For a deeper dive into local flavours, Alle due Corti serves authentic regional cuisine and even offers cookery classes. Stay at La Fiermontina, a chic city retreat with lush gardens and an impressive private art collection.
Best for deep-fried delicacies
The island region of Sicily, and particularly its capital Palermo, gives you an experience of street food like no other place in Italy. Head to the city's lively Kalsa quarter, where you can watch fish, prawns and calamari being grilled on giant barbecues. Look out for moreish Sicilian fried snacks, including panelle (chickpea fritters) and indulgent arancine (filled risotto balls). Add cazzilli (potato croquettes) and sfincione (oven-baked flatbread topped with oregano-scented tomato sauce) and you've got yourself a full-on street feast. A visit to the Mercato del Capo food market reveals the city's Arab influences, including the sultanas that go into the island's signature dish, pasta con le sarde (spaghetti with sardines and fennel). Rocco Forte Villa Igiea, a former residence of the aristocratic Florio family, blends art nouveau splendour with modern luxury. There's a spectacular cocktail terrace and top-notch Sicilian cuisine to ensure you stay on theme.
Best for inventive chocolate The story of Sicilian chocolate begins with the Spanish, who first brought cocoa beans to this hilltop town. The age-old techniques can be tasted at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the island's oldest chocolate factory, but bear in mind Modica chocolate is crunchier, drier, darker and more bitter than what you may be used to. Also know that, in this part of Italy, chocolate is combined with minced beef without eyebrows raised. 'Mpanatigghi are moon-shaped biscuits filled with cocoa, fruits, almonds and butcher's cuts. Make a long weekend of it at Casa Talia, a laid-back B&B with the most beautiful view overlooking the city.
Best for seafoodThe flavours of the surrounding rugged mountains and the Mediterranean coast mingle harmoniously in Sardinia's capital. Seafood lovers can't leave without trying bottarga — cured mullet roe, grated over spaghetti, or shaved onto raw artichokes. It transports you instantly to the sea. The narrow streets of Cagliari's old town, such as Via Sardegna, are filled with little restaurants serving other Sardinian specialities including malloreddus (shell-like pasta covered in a fennel-infused pork sauce) and the giant couscous-like fregula, which is gorgeous with clams. Raise a glass to a decision well made at Palazzo Doglio, a restored 1920s palace close to the marina. It combines classical elegance with contemporary design, a sleek spa and one of the city's most sophisticated cocktail bars.
Additional reporting by Mike MacEacheran
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