How to master Helen Mirren's modern French twist

Telegraph

09-04-2025

Dame Helen Mirren is an indisputable style icon, but just as influential as her brilliantly bold wardrobe choices are her hairstyles – and her latest look, a modern take on a French twist, is no exception. Over a career spanning 60 years, the actress has displayed a chameleonic knack for great hair, especially in later life, mastering everything from classic bobs and pixie crops to flowing waves and sleek updos.
And while a glamorous shade of silver has become her signature, Mirren has been known to experiment with colourful transformations more than once. At the Cannes Film Festival in 2023, she stepped out with blue hair to match her custom-made Daniel del Core gown. A few years earlier, she had debuted a cropped rosy pink style on the same red carpet at Cannes.
While her latest hairstyle is rather less daring than a full-scale colour change, it nevertheless offered a transformative effect. Attending the premiere of the new Paramount+ crime drama series MobLand in London, Mirren opted for a French twist, an updo that sees hair pulled back, twisted vertically and pinned against the head. It's a timeless look, but there were a few clever updates that kept this classic style looking fresh and youthful.
The power of a little lift
Mirren's French twist strayed from convention with a few wispy pieces pulled down around the edges to create a softer, face-framing finish. There was also a good amount of lift at the front and sides to create a subtle beehive effect.
This has an anti-ageing effect, explains Syd Hayes, a London-based hairstylist who's part of Mirren's inner circle. 'The beehive has always been a favourite of mine,' he says. 'It's great if you have thinning hair as it adds volume and height. I also love it when an updo follows the line of the jaw, as this gives the illusion of lift. Her hair colour looks so striking when it's up too.'
This is not the first time Mirren has proved the power of a French twist with added lift; she wore a similar style in 2022 at the LA premiere of Yellowstone prequel series 1923. But her recent take feels a little more playful and relaxed.
The key to this is texture. 'This keeps it cool rather than something sprayed and smooth, which can quickly feel old-fashioned,' says Hayes. 'I like to make sure the hair is slightly gritty when I'm creating similar styles.'
This year has already seen the return of the Nineties chignon, the low-slung bun revived by midlife supermodels Kate Moss and Christy Turlington at the Calvin Klein show during New York Fashion Week. But Mirren, approaching her 80th birthday, has shown that the French twist is an equally winning choice for women of all ages.
How to achieve Helen Mirren's modern French twist
As for how to achieve this flattering style at home, Hayes recommends four simple steps:
Prep
To prep your hair for the style, adding volume and texture is key. Hayes recommends drying hair with the new Babyliss Air Wand (£120, Babyliss), which features a volume attachment with a curved oval design that adds lift. You can also apply a texturising product, such as Sam McKnight's Easy Up Do Texture Spray (£28, Sam McKnight), which Hayes describes as the 'perfect prep product'.
Easy Up Do Texture Spray, £28, Hair by Sam McKnight
Lift and smooth
Next, backcomb your hair at the roots only, before smoothing everything over with a soft brush. Hayes suggests a Mason and Pearson Boar Bristle and Nylon brush (£145.50, Mason and Pearson), which, he explains, helps to smooth without brushing out your back-combing.
Boar Bristle and Nylon brush, £145.50, Mason and Pearson
Twist
'I then like to section the front of the hair off from ear to ear and work the back into the French twist, rolling the hair in on itself,' says Hayes. Once you're happy with the shape, pin it into place using U-pins, which should slide through the twist and then be secured close to the scalp.
Finish
Finally, finish the sides and top, securing the subtle beehive with pins worked into the twist. 'Don't forget to pull out a few pieces from the side and front,' says Hayes. 'It's really important that it feels relaxed and not too brushed, which keeps things elegant yet messy.'