The Scottish city that's curiously underrated and overlooked

The National

29-04-2025

Losing city status in 1975 must have hurt a historic hub and erstwhile capital where Scotland's monarchs were once crowned on our most famous hulk of sandstone. Last year that stone fulfilled its destiny, returning as centre stage at the sparkling new Perth Museum, a crowning symbol of a proud city that should never just be somewhere you flash by on the A9.
Perth's sheer accessibility has long been both a bane and a boon. Perthshire's capital is brilliantly connected – unlike Aberdeen, Dundee and Inverness, it is woven into Scotland's motorway network, it's a fulcrum for accessing the Highlands, and myriad trains converge here. There is even a Sleeper service to London.
Perth is often curiously underrated and overlooked within Scotland, but outwith our borders others are quicker to see the charms of Sir Walter Scott's 'Fair City'. Perth was the first city in the UK awarded Cittaslow status in 2008, a nod to its civic promotion of wellbeing and quality of life, instead of development for development's sake. City status finally returned in 2012.
(Image: Wirestock) Given the fantastic produce of the Perthshire hinterland it's no surprise Perth welcomed Scotland's first farmers' market and further foodie acclaim came with Perth being hailed 'Scotland's Food Town of the Year' in 2018. This clean, green city is also a 'Champion of Champions' in the Britain in Bloom competition. Rightmove even named Perth Scotland's happiest place (and the UK's fifth) in 2020.
Perth's setting helps. The easily navigable and flat core sits right on the Tay, Scotland's longest river. Perth's original medieval walled plan is pretty much still intact, breaking off west of the river and neatly bookmarking the historic centre are the spacious civic parks of North Inch and South Inch. Local legend insists King James VI became so enraged with his soldiers enjoying the embryonic sport of golf here instead of practising their archery skills he had the sport that Scotland gave the world banned.
At the heart of the city's current renaissance is the new Perth Museum, which sits right at the heart of Perth by St John's Kirk, which lends the city its other moniker of 'St John's Toun', a name adopted by its Premiership football team, who won both Scottish cups in 2021. It was here John Knox fired his congregation into such a frenzy in 1559 they trashed the kirk and went on a rampage, sacking the local monasteries, as the flames of the Scottish Reformation ignited.
The centrepiece of the £27 million Museum is, of course, that stone. To be fair they turn the potentially prosaic visit to a featureless lump of sandstone into quite a show, and there is real depth beyond the Stone of Destiny too. You sweep from prehistoric Perthshire settlers to worlds when Pictish kings made their power grabs, Viking longships marauded on the Tay and Roman legionnaires were sent hame tae think again.
(Image: Robin McKelvie) A current highlight at Perth Museum is a temporary exhibition – which opened on April 25 – that takes a deep dive into Scotland's most notorious monarch, aiming to explore the real stories beyond the myths of Macbeth. You can follow Macbeth's trail around Perthshire, with a yew and oak on the banks of the Tay at Dunkeld the remnants of the ancient Birnham Wood that would have stood when Shakespeare visited in 1599 as he toured with a troop of actors performing their play. You can yomp up Dunsinane Hill too, though you'll be waiting a while on Birnham Wood marching here as it is long gone. At least you have until August 31 to visit the exhibition.
More culture beckons at Perth Concert Hall and Perth Art Gallery. The gallery has been beefed up with the arrival of the collection of Scottish colourist John Duncan Fergusson (1874–1961), which moved from its standalone gallery just before the Perth Museum opened. You learn of his links with Charles Rennie Mackintosh and Picasso. Margaret Morris, his accompanied dancer and choreographer wife, is given a welcome stronger voice here too.
The museum and gallery are worth visiting Perth for alone, but don't make the mistake of leaving straight after. Instead amble to the Watergate on the Tay, a quayside once alive with traders, clambering with the languages of the Low Countries and various Baltic brogues. French claret and Spanish silk swept in; the same ships leaving again laden with drams and fish. Keep an eye out for our furry friends from the riverside walkway as Perth in 2021 welcomed the UK's first city beavers in centuries.
(Image: North Port Perth) On George Street there is evidence of a city bounce that can only have been helped by the museum opening. The Bean Shop is a zeitgeist-pleasing artisan coffee roasters who supply Perth Museum's cafe with a dedicated 'Destiny' blend. The quality artisan vibe continues at the Perth Distillery. The Scottish Gin Awards Gold Medal-winning Perth Pink, which makes the most of Perthshire's famed raspberries, is the star of the show.
If you want to savour a real show head out with History and Horror Tours for a ghostly exploration of nocturnal Perth. Staff-carrying storyteller Gary Knight, who has written books on Perth, weaves a rich and colourful narrative that doesn't need jump scares to entertain as you learn about this multifaced city and its engaging history. A highlight is exclusive night access to the Sixteenth- Century Blackfriars Graveyard.
Outdoor Explore offers a tour of a totally different nature as they eke you out on to the Tay in a kayak in search of 'Perth's Wildlife Big Five', including those beavers and their dams. Perth makes most sense from the water as you appreciate how it grew as the highest navigable point on the Tay. This is a city deeply connected both to its history and the glorious Perthshire countryside that unfurls all around. And Perth is definitely not a city you should just flash by on the A9.
Bed down in Perth
Mercure Perth Hotel
Not many hotels boast a waterwheel churning its way through reception. The Mercure Perth Hotel does and it's no tacky addition but part of the old lade network that used to power Perth. The hotel has won an award for how skilfully it has preserved its old mill heritage and woven a modern, comfortable hotel around it. Very Perth. It has a handy central location too and is close to the famous Simon Howie butchers so you can nab goodies to take home as you leave.
mercureperth.co.uk
Parklands Hotel
Perth's Lord Provost used to preside over the city from this stately old stone dame overlooking South Inch Park. There are only 15 bedrooms in a four star that feels both intimate and relaxed. They have the No1 The Bank Bistro and the beer garden terrace is a great space on a sunny day.
theparklandshotel.com
Murrayshall
Sleep in the shadows of Scottish Royalty close to Scone Palace. The owners have equally lofty ambitions, aiming to rival Gleneagles. A sweep of eating and drinking options, golf and spa facilities echo their Perthshire hotel sibling. It's only a short drive from Perth but has a real countryside vibe with easy access to local walks too.
murrayshall.co.uk