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Once ‘the world's egg basket,' this Gold Rush-era boomtown still delivers culinary riches

Once ‘the world's egg basket,' this Gold Rush-era boomtown still delivers culinary riches

CNN26-06-2025
See More Videos Petaluma's farm-to-table trend dates all the way back to the California Gold Rush of the mid-1800s. Between lush farmland and a river for transport, the town found itself in a prime position to provide eggs, dairy, meat and veggies to mining towns in the region and down to booming San Francisco, less than 40 miles south.
You can still see faded chicken 'Hatchery' business names painted on old brick buildings in what was once locally touted as 'The World's Egg Basket.' There's an enthusiastic hometown gathering for the annual Butter & Egg Days Parade and Festival, and at the Petaluma Historical Library and Museum you can get up close to an egg cleaning machine and see an old photo of the town's former chicken pharmacy ('cause fowl sometimes feel foul).
The town's culinary tradition continues today with everything from buffalo milk ice cream and sourdough bagels to Swedish cuisine and famous craft beer. But there are other draws to Petaluma, including shopping among buildings from the 1800s, hip bars, live music and loads of nostalgia.
'Our historic downtown is a quirky, kinda magical place to hang out in and find something fascinating, in particular, really good food, festivals for cheesy reasons and at this time in our history, a very cool weekend music scene,' said Tom Gaffey, general manager of the Phoenix Theater, an all-ages music venue.
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Share your picks for our top towns in 2026 Petaluma is also well-positioned as a base for the current riches of the region. Think of this town as the hub of a pioneer's wagon wheel, spokes stretching out in all directions to day trip points of interest. West to Point Reyes National Seashore and Bodega Bay, north to the redwoods around Guerneville, east to wine country, and south for hiking on Mount Tamalpais or the houseboats and dockside fun of Sausalito, then just over Golden Gate bridge to the big city — all reachable within an hour, traffic-willing.
'Part of the appeal of Petaluma is the proximity to wine country and the coast, and downtown has charm,' said Chris Nardone, one of the owners of Ernie's Tin Bar.
You could spend two weeks in Petaluma and not nearly eat through all the delicious dining options in town. That's another reason to start and end your days of regional exploration there.
The Bagel Mill, with its sourdough selection and expert baristas, equals a bargain breakfast that doesn't taste like one. The Tea Room Cafe leans into an 'Alice in Wonderland' theme and takes the menu up a notch with omelets (naturally), pancakes, cranberry orange scones and massive cookies.
Along the river lies Grand Central Petaluma, with hammocks, Adirondack chairs and tables on the lawn overlooking the water and downtown. It serves small but filling Argentinian-style empanadas on ceramic plates, and has a tiny shop selling handcrafted, imported Ecuadorian sweaters, ponchos and blankets.
The building, with a small trolley engine out front, once housed the Petaluma and Santa Rosa Railway ticket booth. The married owners of the coffee shop met near New York's Grand Central Terminal, but the name also signifies an inclusive and multicultural meeting place for various communities of Petaluma, explained Juan Carlos Vinueza, one of the owners.
Don't-miss lunch options in town include Stockhome, a Swedish-Middle Eastern hybrid that sells Swedish candy at the counter and makes Wienerschnitzel and an addicting halloumi sandwich, served with salad or crispy golden fries. It has Michelin's Bib Gourmand honor, defined as 'exceptionally good food at moderate prices.'
Tortilla Real makes its tortillas, guacamole and other ingredients from scratch and you can taste the added time and care. They also have a separate vegan menu with alternatives to their beloved dishes.
The current hot restaurant (read: get a reservation) is L'Oro di Napoli. It's a unique space with interior windows and a balcony, reminiscent of a historic Italian street, though it's located in the old US Bakery building. The pizzas are thick and delicious and cooked in a beautiful, blue-tiled pizza oven.
On the same block as L'Oro di Napoli, but with a very different vibe, is Brewsters Beer Garden. The friendly staff serves a variety of beer, some local, in a large, half-covered space with heat lamps. Their menu includes duck fat fries, mac and cheese and a brisket, ribs and sausage combo called the Uncle Buck.
Brewsters also serves buffalo milk soft-serve ice cream, made at the nearby Valley Ford Creamery. For traditional ice cream, with many more flavor options (including vegan and gluten-free), try Angela's Organic Ice Cream parlor.
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You may still be eating your cone of crème brûlée ice cream if you walk out of Angela's and follow the big band sounds (on Wednesday nights) across the street into The Big Easy. The former speakeasy hosts live music every night except Monday in a dark, throwback space. Another old speakeasy, Volpi's, is known to feature an accordion-playing grandpa in the bar, and the restaurant was an Italian grocery when it first opened 100 years ago.
If you want to be the one doing the playing, head to the spacious Buffalo Billiards pool hall, busy even on a weeknight with locals enjoying pool, of course, but also darts, pinball and foosball.
The Phoenix Theater is an all-ages nightclub that promises a cool hang for teens and tweens (they serve no alcohol). The one-time vaudeville venue has a long history of keeping the punk music flame lit. It also hosts a non-profit skate shop, and the building has a half pipe.
Two of Petaluma's most fabled drinking establishments lay just out of downtown's reach. (No, not wine country — though Keller Estate winery is only 15 minutes away and open for various tasting experiences by appointment.)
The Lagunitas Brewing Co. taproom is a hoppy Valhalla with a bar, two outdoor stages hosting live music most days and a large picnic area. It also offers tours and has a shop for beer-branded swag. Fans will revel in the fact that the taproom serves rare labels on the premises, such as the Arcticus Maximus (a cold double IPA) and the limited release Waldos' Special ale triple IPA (11.4% alcohol content).
Ernie's Tin Bar is another pilgrimage spot, worth the short drive from town center. The long bar, with a propane pot-belly-looking stove on one end, is located in an old filling station that is a still-working garage and has a rare beer-only license.
A 1943 Chrysler Windsor sits behind patrons on barstools, and a sign over the bar warns that anyone making a phone call on this hallowed ground incurs the penalty of buying everyone a round.
Ernie's has been around so long that one of the owners, Ernie Altenreuther, is the grandson of the original Ernie. Regulars of the roadhouse bar (that began as a blacksmith shop more than a hundred years ago), come for the live music, the local, German and Belgian drafts, and the friendly way strangers easily strike up conversation with one another.
Shopping downtown, along streets lined with distinctive buildings from the mid-1800s, rewards curiosity. One of the pretty store fronts is owned by nationally known jewelry designer Robindira Unsworth, who has a studio in the back. The store also sells a nice collection of other brands' homewares and clothes.
At the Heebe Jeebe general store you can find toys or a NorCal, Petaluma or 'Deport Elon' T-shirt. The two floors of Copperfield's Books are a joy to wander and chat up the friendly staff.
Ask questions at the Petaluma Seed Bank about their thousand-plus varieties of herbs, flowers, vegetables and garden fruits and vegetables, and you'll learn that their seeds are open-pollinated, non-GMO and heirloom. They also sell honey, organic chocolate, and Petaluma Seed Bank swag, naturally.
The Petaluma Historical Library and Museum is located in a beautiful old library funded by Andrew Carnegie in 1906, with a stained-glass dome ceiling, and demonstrates modern Petaluma's pride for its delicious place in California history.
The displays include its pre-industrial period, when this was Indigenous land (the town's name comes from the Miwok people, meaning 'sloping ridge'), but much of the focus is on the years listed in the 'poultry timeline' of Petaluma.
Un-egg-related, there is a small display on the local filming of 1973's 'American Graffiti' — a high school tale dripping with nostalgia — directed by pre-'Star Wars' George Lucas, whose Skywalker Ranch is 30 minutes away in Lucas Valley.
You can't visit the ranch, but Petaluma is home to Rancho Obi-Wan, a nonprofit museum that houses the world's largest collection of 'Star Wars' memorabilia. 'American Graffiti' fans may want to time a visit to the annual Cruisin' the Boulevard gathering of classic cars.
A stroll through Petaluma, past its historic buildings and the architecturally significant houses highlighted in the history museum, reveals how much the past mingles with the present. It's also fun to run or walk along the river trail, adorned with outdoor artwork. Or rent one of The Floathouse's 16 types of human-powered watercraft to explore by river.
Whether by foot or kayak, you see old Petaluma still in action everywhere. The tallest building downtown is a grain factory still operating for dairy feed. The Hampton Inn Petaluma is in a nicely renovated silk mill. The Mystic Theatre — the showcase music venue in town — is another old vaudeville stage.
Petaluma's pre-tourist boom only adds to the charm of the current heyday. Nostalgia mixed with food, drink, shopping and local pride.
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Experts reveal the 5 dirtiest spots in hotel rooms
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