Drawing Conclusions: Illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier Spill the Ink on the Couture Collections
At the couture, fashion's ultimate—and most expensive—expression, haute is usually synonymous with perfection, and for the most part that remained true this season. On offer were a multitude of perfectly pretty gowns and seriously sexy embellished pieces destined to dazzle. These reflected a world cushioned from care and chaos, though other designers like Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela and Viktor Hosting and Rolf Snoeren didn't shy away from, while still striving for beauty. Personality is often to be found in imperfection and in gesture. The latter defines the work of fashion illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier, who drew the couture, in ink, pastel, and pen for Vogue Runway. Both deeply embedded in the fashion system, they share their informed view on the season below.
For starters, what do you make of this designer round-robin—what does it say about the state of things?
Blue Farrier: The musical chairs of creative directors, all hugely talented, doesn't seem to be that surprising to me, and reflective of the markets…. Talking from a woman's perspective, I would have liked to have seen more of a championing of women creative directors, more diversity, as well seeing more move up from younger designers. I hope in the future years this will be more the case.
Jacky Marshall: I find it hard to keep track of who is moving where. A fashion merry-go-round of creative directors. I'm very interested to see the new collections coming up.
What debuts are you most excited about and why?
BF: I'm genuinely excited about the new hiring of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, and what universe he will create.
JM: Demna for Gucci. What will it look like? I can't wait to see what he does.
When you are drawing the collections, how do you choose what to draw?
BF: I gravitate towards a strong silhouette and something that would suit my love of painting with ink. It's usually a look of something strong yet simple. Occasionally I feel inspired to paint a closeup portrait of the model too.
JM: When I look at a collection I am usually drawn to a strong silhouette and color. I draw fast, so if I can't get a drawing to work, I move on quickly to another look until I am happy.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Vogue
2 hours ago
- Vogue
Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner Didn't Send Justin the Dress Code Memo
It was a a star-studded evening in West Hollywood, where Justin Bieber celebrated the recent launch of his new album, Swag. In attendance, of course, was his wife Hailey Bieber and their close friend Kendall Jenner—both aligning on a dual dress code for the evening. Justin, meanwhile, stuck to his own color-popping aesthetic. The Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner schools of style follow a similar lexicon on most occasions—think '90s-esque but elevated basics, sleek tailoring, and luxe details (usually that means a bag from The Row or some itty-bitty sunglasses). Whether they're together on the slopes in Aspen wrapping up in vintage faux furs or hitting up Sushi Park for girls night in their shared closet staples, Bieber and Jenner keep 'quiet luxury' as their baseline with little sartorial twists here and there. Yesterday evening proving no different. Hailey was photographed in a sculpted black tank top with a low back, tailored black pants, and a small black boxy bag. The Rhode founder donned some small black oval sunglasses, and a pair of apple green, barely there sandals with red detailing on the toe post. Next to her, Justin followed his usual acidic L.A. boy vibe, wearing a rolled up white beanie hat, pale pink goggle sunglasses, a candy pink hoodie from his streetwear brand SKYLRK, gray wash jean shorts, with customizable SKYLRK slides in neon yellow and ecru, paired with slime green socks. If you can see a teeny bit of sartorial continuation between the couple with their green-toned footwear, I'm with you. It's love.
Forbes
10 hours ago
- Forbes
The Founders Of Apparel Brand Cherie Are Winning The Attention Economy
Two looks from Cherie's latest collection, Dulce Vida. Courtesy of Cherie Helena Busch and Nutrada Sottivoranan, founders of Cherie, live and work in Bangkok, Thailand. Busch, a model with a natural eye for social media content, grew up in Sweden and Sottivoranan, who graduated from University of Arts London, was raised in Thailand. 'I think our first ever piece that went viral was Tia corset,' Busch told me. 'We started with corsets. Obviously we maintained that throughout the years. I love pieces that make an hourglass fit. We started with corsets and we also had denim, but we soon realized that a lot of our customers really appreciate our corsets.' 'To be honest, when we started,' Busch said, 'it was a lot of learning. We made a lot of mistakes. It wasn't really Cherie back in the beginning.' 'We refined the branding to be just more like feminine pieces,' Sottivoranan added. A model wears the V-neck "Tia" corset by Cherie in black Mesh. Courtesy of Cherie Cherie, as a brand, takes inspiration from the classic, mid-century silhouette. 'We like the feeling of light fabrics,' Busch told me. 'But obviously you can't wear lingerie out. We wanted to turn that feeling into something that was more wearable, but still with a touch of lingerie. It's very vintage inspired. Because we love the aesthetic. We love the feeling and felt like it was very feminine. And we love other types of fashion too, obviously. Like we wear all kinds of different types, but for Cherie, we really wanted to enhance femininity and make it timeless. Sweet but still sexy and romantic as well.' Busch moved to Thailand from Sweden when she was 19 and signed with a modeling and acting agency. At the same time, Sottivoranan was interning with a Thai fashion brand. Both ladies, independently and before they knew each other, started their own small brands, and eventually met when Sottivoranan was hired to model for a company Busch was working for. 'We had our own separate brands,' Sottivoranan explained, 'and wanted to do a collab together, but from the first time we met, we were just like, instead of doing a collab together, why don't we just work together? It was very early and when we met, we just complimented each other, we have different strengths that really enhanced each other. We just decided to do this together.' From corsets to the dreamiest of dresses, the founders of Cherie have perfected their aesthetic with their latest collection, Dulce Vida. Courtesy of Cherie 'We just realized,' Bosch said,' we felt like we would do so much better if we become partners. Like she's very good with the business side. She studied fashion and for me, I have such a big creative eye. When it comes to taking photos, I just know when something looks good in a picture. It's really hard to explain it because I didn't go to school to learn it, but it's just something I've always had since a very young age. My mom used to say that I love beautiful things, that it's just a part of who I am.' The founders started their business in 2020, they're currently five years in, and though both of them are young, they have learned a lot as their brand, and its impressive online presence, have grown from a regional brand to one that serves an international clientele. 'We naturally just learned as the brand grew,' Sottivoranan told me. 'Both of us, Lena's so great with content and creative direction. For me it's more of the business side. We just learn as we do with manufacturing, with the production garment process. We just wanted to make something that could last every season.' 'We have gone through so many ups and downs,' Busch said. 'So many times we were just like, I want to give up now. And then the other one is like, no, we can't give up now. And then vice versa. But I think for us, when we reach something that we never thought we would, and just accomplish things with our company, we know this can be something much bigger if we just continue going. I think pushing each other when the other person is down has really helped us get through it.' 'We are both Aries,' Busch continued, 'and Aries are very fierce people. I think when we went into it, we went into it 200%.' A romantic setting for an exquisite gown. Courtesy of Cherie 'Covid was a difficult time around the world,' Sottivoranan said, 'But I think that we took advantage of the time when a lot of people were at home. That's when we got a lot of exposure from influencers because during that time, it was quite popular to be making content at home. We would send product out to a lot of influencers back then. And they would make a lot of content and post for us as well. We got a lot of exposure during that time.' 'Influencers are connections,' Busch said, and I liked that wording a lot. I sat with it for a few minutes while working on this piece. There's a lot of content out there, all of it hungry for eyes and attention. Ezra Klein and Kyla Scanlon have been encouraging their audiences to rethink our economic ideas to include the attention economy. I'd like to propose that Cherie, through Helena Busch and Nutrada Sottivoranan, is an excellent example of instinctive understanding of the nuances of catching, and keeping, the eyes of their audience. It is this innate skill that has allowed them to so quickly outgrow their regional market. Any young person, or brand, needs mentors and peers as a support system. Community is a lot more important to success than our culture seems willing to accept at this moment in time. Though there are many examples of wonderful mentoring relationships in fashion, they are not exactly common, and when there are no mentors available peers end up pulling double duty. This is not something which has escaped Busch and Sottivoranan's attention. 'We have friends and mentors that have fashion brands,' Busch told me. 'They are also models or influencers, and we have all been helping each other, building each other's brands. We will help them with photoshoots or they will help us. I feel like that community, and just like wanting the best for each other, helps us all grow. When you're surrounded by like-minded people that want the same things, that really helps you and motivates you to want the best and you get to learn from each other. And for example, if we made a mistake, we would tell our friends don't make this mistake. And if they figure something out, they tell us. I think that's really helped us grow faster than we actually would if we would have done everything by ourselves.' Sexy can be sweet, and Sottivoranan and Busch are creating work that is both playful and beautifully made. Courtesy of Cherie 'We've had a lot of help behind the scenes,' Sottivoranan told me. 'Like the backend part, how we operate, how to make it smoother. Stolen Stores is a Thai brand and they've mentored us from the beginning as well. Child Collective is another brand that has helped us.' 'I feel like every time we face a struggle or we face a problem, we always have people we can reach out to to ask for advice,' Busch told me. 'And the people around us have always been very supportive.' Covid aside, one of the biggest challenges the young brand faced was taking payments from international customers. As they garnered more attention online, as their audience grew, so did the complications of processing funds from different countries. 'We had to manually write every payment and send the link,' Busch told me. 'Stripe is the payment that Shopify usually uses. And that was not available in Thailand. We were struggling so much with payments, for almost a year. And when Stripe finally came to Thailand, it changed everything. It changed the way we were accepting payments and we were getting a lot more orders. And that was this start.' 'I think we were like one of their first customers,' said Sottivoranan, ' as soon as it was available in Bangkok, we got on to Stripe.' Cherie is a brand that focuses on the romantic details that make a garment special. Courtesy of Cherie 'To be honest,' Busch said, 'when we started a brand, we didn't really think we would have international customers. We were thinking that we wanted a European feel to the brand that wasn't available in Thailand. And I, as a customer, because I thought about myself as a customer when I was ordering from abroad, the custom fees in Thailand, it was just really insane. It was 50%, I think. We were like, let's start a brand that we would buy from if we were abroad, that people in Thailand could also buy from and they wouldn't have to pay custom fees.' 'In Bangkok and Thailand,' Sottivoranan explained, 'it's quite difficult to reach the international target audience, which I feel like we've been able to do. Like 95% of our customers are abroad. And we don't over produce. Our team is not big at all. And we produce everything in house.' 'We make very small batches,' Bush said. 'We produce very small batches and then we do pre-orders, because we don't want to produce things that people won't buy. That is a waste of fabrics and it is not good for the environment. We try to be very hands-on with the sewing team and with orders.' The ladies work in the same building where their garments are manufactured. Quality control is built into their model and they work closely with their 14 employees, a 10-person sewing team and four members of staff. This set up allows for constant communication, and should an issue arise, there is always a founder on hand to work with a patternmaker or trouble shoot a production challenge. Helena Busch and Nutrada Sottivoranan, founders of Cherie. Courtesy of Cherie 'We really just like having everyone in one office,' Busch explained. 'We have tried not having in-house sewers and it's very hard to control the pieces. And as our pieces got more complicated, it felt necessary to make that change. We're always making sure that we're producing the amount of a piece that is actually going to be worn,' Sottivoranan said. 'We like it to be very timeless, pieces that we know are always going to be in fashion. Pieces you can mix and match very easily. We want, because if you're going to spend something on a piece, you want it to last. We want to create pieces that are long lasting and of good quality.' Surely all this attention to detail, combined with their beautiful designs and dedicated community, will mean that Cherie is destined to continue its global ascent. Personally, this writer cannot wait to see what accomplishments are next. There are few things as inspiring as young people ready to work for the world they want to live in, and I left my conversation feeling better about the future of our world and the industry I love most. MORE FROM FORBES Forbes Exploring Class And Character In Costumes For Prime's 'We Were Liars' By Rachel Elspeth Gross Forbes Hello, My Name Is Sprayground: Celebrating 15 Years Of Artistry By Rachel Elspeth Gross Forbes 'Dressed To Kill': PBS' 'Human Footprint' Examines Apparel And Evolution By Rachel Elspeth Gross
Yahoo
10 hours ago
- Yahoo
Megan Thee Stallion's Nails Are the Manicure Equivalent of Christian Louboutin Stilettos
Getty Images Designer-inspired nails are clearly having a moment, with both SZA and Cardi B working label logos—Gucci and Chanel, respectively—into their manicures recently. But you don't have to broadcast blatant letters across your fingertips in order to give a knowing nod to your favorite fashion house. Just look at Megan Thee Stallion's latest nail look. Megan attended the rapper's inaugural Pete & Thomas Foundation Gala in New York City on Wednesday, July 16, hand-in-hand with Dallas Mavericks player and officially hard-launched boyfriend, Klay Thompson. Thompson was pretty brave for weaving his fingers with Meg's, considering how long and sharp her stiletto manicure is. And you know what designer is closely associated with stilettos? Christian Louboutin, of course. But that's not even the main reason we're calling this mani so Louboutin-coded. While the top of Megan's nails were painted with a gunmetal-gray chrome polish, it's what's going on underneath that makes the manicure such a tribute to the shoe legend: a couple coats of bright red, just like the famous crimson soles of a Christian Louboutin pump. Just as sleek as her manicure was Megan's hair, tightly pulled back with the exception of a tendril, and her makeup, which was topped off with dramatically winged liner. She wore a gorgeous, black, criss-cross halter-neck gown by Off-White with a stunning, super-thick beaded belt that echoed the gray and red in her manicure. Thanks to the length of her dress, it's unclear whether or not Meg's open-toed heels were Louboutins, but her manicure is definitely serving plenty of high-fashion footwear vibes regardless. More manicure inspo: Nicole Kidman's Nails Are Having a Hot Goth Summer You Could Play "I Spy" with J. Lo's Glittery 3D Nails Kourtney Kardashian Found the Cutest Way to Wear Butter Yellow Nails Now, watch Madelyn Cline's cover shoot: Follow Allure on Instagram and TikTok, or subscribe to our newsletter to stay up to date on all things beauty. Originally Appeared on Allure Solve the daily Crossword
