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Drawing Conclusions: Illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier Spill the Ink on the Couture Collections
Drawing Conclusions: Illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier Spill the Ink on the Couture Collections

Vogue

time14-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue

Drawing Conclusions: Illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier Spill the Ink on the Couture Collections

Blue Farrier and Jacky Marshall drawing the couture for Vogue Runway. At the couture, fashion's ultimate—and most expensive—expression, haute is usually synonymous with perfection, and for the most part that remained true this season. On offer were a multitude of perfectly pretty gowns and seriously sexy embellished pieces destined to dazzle. These reflected a world cushioned from care and chaos, though other designers like Glenn Martens at Maison Margiela and Viktor Hosting and Rolf Snoeren didn't shy away from, while still striving for beauty. Personality is often to be found in imperfection and in gesture. The latter defines the work of fashion illustrators Jacky Marshall and Blue Farrier, who drew the couture, in ink, pastel, and pen for Vogue Runway. Both deeply embedded in the fashion system, they share their informed view on the season below. For starters, what do you make of this designer round-robin—what does it say about the state of things? Blue Farrier: The musical chairs of creative directors, all hugely talented, doesn't seem to be that surprising to me, and reflective of the markets…. Talking from a woman's perspective, I would have liked to have seen more of a championing of women creative directors, more diversity, as well seeing more move up from younger designers. I hope in the future years this will be more the case. Jacky Marshall: I find it hard to keep track of who is moving where. A fashion merry-go-round of creative directors. I'm very interested to see the new collections coming up. What debuts are you most excited about and why? BF: I'm genuinely excited about the new hiring of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel, and what universe he will create. JM: Demna for Gucci. What will it look like? I can't wait to see what he does. When you are drawing the collections, how do you choose what to draw? BF: I gravitate towards a strong silhouette and something that would suit my love of painting with ink. It's usually a look of something strong yet simple. Occasionally I feel inspired to paint a closeup portrait of the model too. JM: When I look at a collection I am usually drawn to a strong silhouette and color. I draw fast, so if I can't get a drawing to work, I move on quickly to another look until I am happy.

The Top 10 Most-Viewed SS26 Menswear Shows on Vogue Runway
The Top 10 Most-Viewed SS26 Menswear Shows on Vogue Runway

Vogue

time01-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue

The Top 10 Most-Viewed SS26 Menswear Shows on Vogue Runway

This article originally appeared on Vogue Business. To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here. The results of this menswear season's top 10 most-viewed shows list on Vogue Runway are in. Every season, this list acts as a failsafe indicator of which collections have captured the attention of those who are more interested in the clothes than the front rows. As ever, the list is ordered according to the amount of views each collection logged on Vogue Runway within its first 48 hours of publication. And as ever, this season has thrown up a few surprises. There are four new entries on the list this season, of which only one – Yves Saint Laurent – we expected to see. That reliably blockbuster show has been held outside of the mainstream menswear calendar for the last few seasons, and its in-season arrival on the Paris schedule made it an almost certainty to figure here. The three other new entries include the oldest designer on the list, the second youngest designer on the list, and the longest serving non-founder creative director in all of fashion. This season, eight of the top 10 collections were presented in Paris, with only two in Milan. That will be catnip to those who contend that Milan lacks 'energy'. And only one of the collections on the list was not presented on the runway, which will cheer those who relish watching fashion theatre in its purest form. Two of the collections were debut shows for creative directors at well-established houses. And you needn't need to be a fashion clairvoyant to divine which show, this season, would be the most-viewed. Haute-bourgeois boys in leather pants plus the hottest bags in the business make Hermès an irresistible viewing pleasure for many among menswear's cognoscenti. So it's little surprise to see French luxury's most serene heritage marque sliding back into this season's top 10, making it the first of the list's new entries. And without wishing to spoil the reveal at the other end of this list, there is a satisfying symmetry to the fact that Véronique Nichanian is the longest-serving creative director in all of fashion (menswear included). Ravissante! Hermès SS26 Men's. Photo: Daniele Oberrauch/ Second new entry Grace Wales Bonner is also the second youngest designer on this list. This season, she was presenting a collection that marked her 10th anniversary as one of the most precarious of entities in fashion: a London-based indie. In her review, my Vogue Runway colleague Sarah Mower described as a 'total disgrace' the fact that GWB has not yet been tapped to be creative director of another brand or house, and that reading is fair enough; however, another way of seeing it might be that Wales Bonner is simply too self-determined to let herself be pinned down. Her three-pronged combo of artistic practice, conscious menswear opulence and hit Adidas output seems to have generated a stable and self-sustaining business ecosystem that she's thriving in. Chapeau!

Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior

Vogue Singapore

time29-05-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Vogue Singapore

Maria Grazia Chiuri to exit Dior

It's the end of an era. After a nine-year run as Dior's creative director of women's haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections, Maria Grazia Chiuri is leaving the French luxury house. 'Christian Dior Couture announces that Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided to leave her position as creative director of women's haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections,' the house said in a statement on Thursday. 'I extend my warmest thanks to Maria Grazia Chiuri, who, since her arrival at Dior, has accomplished tremendous work with an inspiring feminist perspective and exceptional creativity, all imbued with the spirit of Monsieur Dior, which allowed her to design highly desirable collections,' Christian Dior couture chairman and CEO Delphine Arnault said. 'She has written a key chapter in the history of Christian Dior, greatly contributing to its remarkable growth and being the first woman to lead the creation of women's collections.' 'I would like to thank Monsieur Arnault for placing his trust in me and Delphine for her support, Chiuri said. 'I am particularly grateful for the work accomplished by my teams and the ateliers. Their talent and expertise allowed me to realise my vision of committed women's fashion, in close dialogue with several generations of female artists. Together, we have written an impactful chapter of which I am immensely proud.' A successor has yet to be announced. This comes after Dior appointed Jonathan Anderson as its artistic director of men's collection in April, succeeding Kim Jones, who exited in January. The Italian designer began her career at Fendi in 1989 as a handbag designer and moved to Valentino in 1999 as an accessories designer before being promoted to co-creative director alongside Pierpaolo Piccioli in 2008. She was appointed at Dior in 2016, becoming its first female designer since the house was founded in 1947—she succeeded Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, Gianfranco Ferré, John Galliano and Raf Simons. Her debut collection for Spring/Summer 2017, inspired by fencing, featured slogan tees, which read 'We should all be feminists'. That set the tone for her tenure, which consistently referenced women's empowerment. 'The message, really, is that there is not one type of woman,' she told Vogue Runway at the show. Over the years, Chiuri has collaborated with several female artists for show sets, including Judy Chicago, Faith Ringgold, Eva Jospin and Mickalene Thomas. In the Dior SS25 show, Italian artist and competitive archer Sagg Napoli shot arrows at a target as the models did their circuit. Chiuri also consistently drew on the archives beyond Christian Dior's era. 'Monsieur Dior only [lived] 10 years. It can't only be about him!' she told Vogue Runway at her debut show. 'In some ways, I see myself as a curator of the house.' For example, in 2018, together with CEO Pietro Beccari, who was appointed in 2017, she relaunched the Saddle Bag, one of the house's iconic bags from the Galliano era. For AW24, she paid homage to Marc Bohan's invention of the Miss Dior line, and notably the opening of a (now defunct) Miss Dior boutique in 1967, as a way to offer ready-to-wear to couture clients. 'I'm very fascinated by this collection and this moment of Mr. Bohan's history,' she told Vogue Runway . The Dior AW25 show had 'Dior-isms', including nods to Galliano's Saddle bag and J'Adore Dior T-shirts and to Gianfranco Ferré's white shirts, according to Vogue Runway . Maria Grazia Chiuri poses with models backstage at the Dior resort 2026 show. Acielle/StyleDuMonde The designer has navigated the course through the whirlwind of runway shows, including women's ready-to-wear couture, cruise, and even pre-fall shows (such as the one in Mumbai, which highlighted the works of artisans, and most recently in Kyoto). It all translated into enormous commercial success. Dior couture sales went from €2.2 billion in 2017 to €9.5 billion in 2023, per HSBC. Dior isn't immune to the wider luxury slowdown, though. In 2024, sales decreased to €8.7 billion, according to HSBC. And in the first quarter of 2025, sales of LVMH's fashion and leather goods division were down 5 per cent. Dior hired Benedetta Petruzzo as managing director, who took up the role on 15 October, reporting to Delphine Arnault, and Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou as deputy CEO in April. In her downtime, as a personal project, Chiuri has been restoring a historic theatre, Rome's Teatro della Cometa. The Dior resort 2026 show, held on Tuesday, was 'a heartfelt, nearly all-white celebration of Rome, her birthplace', according to Vogue Runway. It was her last show with the house. The story was originally published on Vogue Business.

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