Why a weekend in medieval Rye is the perfect British seaside escape

Independent

23-05-2025

Is there anywhere more charming than the British seaside in early summer? When the weather plays ball, there's little need to hop on a plane to the Med. The milky blue of the English Channel backed by pebble beaches – perfect if you don't fancy returning home with pockets weighed down by sand – and the faded grandeur of the south coast's Victorian townhouses and perky piers.
Rye is one such Medieval town set a couple of hours' drive from London, or just over an hour by train from London St Pancras or Stratford International. Different to Hastings, St Leonards, Brighton or Eastbourne, in that it's not set directly beside the sea; rather, sea adjacent. A vast nature Reserve divides it from sandy Camber and eerie but beautiful Dungeness, and yet it's home to all the things you might need to make a great day trip or overnight stay. A fish & chip shop, ice cream parlour, several great pubs, a couple of gorgeous pubs with rooms, local cafés, antiques shops and trendy boutiques.
We opted to drive so we could cram in my daughter's scooter, pram and all the healthy snacks she undoubtedly wouldn't touch, and the car we rented from Turo, the world's largest car sharing marketplace, was delivered personally by the owner – a 2019 Land Rover Discovery Sport – was impeccable and plenty roomy enough for our family of three.
Car hire prices in London – especially over peak bank holiday weekends such as the one ahead of us – can go stratospheric, and Turo was comparable to other sites we scanned, but with a better vehicle selection. The fact it was delivered to our door, saving us the hassle of an extra journey to collect it, sealed the deal.
Within two hours, we arrived in Rye and made a beeline for our base for the night, the George in Rye. Owned by Alex and Katie Clarke, a husband and wife team with a great eye for design. Katie has a background in film set design, evidenced by her choice of unique wallpaper ('either William Morris or sourced in France'), antiques ('I adore hunting them down') and curios ('I've a thing for quirky lamps'). Each room is individually designed and, while colourful, offers a calm and elegant space to bed down for the night.
The George has always been an important meeting point in the town, and today its convivial pub maintains this feeling, while the restaurant offers an elevated space to enjoy a confident menu of gastro-pub classics and inventive cocktails.
From The George, turn right or left along the narrow High Street and you'll find independent boutiques, restaurants, cafés, art galleries and even a couple of wine bars, and at the bottom of the hill are a row of antiques emporiums.
Happily, many of the streets in Rye are cobbled and historic, with Mermaid Street – dating from 1891 and stuffed full of Tudor buildings – being the most Instagrammed of the lot, along with Conduit Hill, Pump Street by the castle and West Street.
The best things to do in Rye
Peruse antique shops and markets
Antiques shopping is one of the highlights of a visit to Rye. Strand Key Antiques, Halcyon Days and Wishbar Antiques are huddled together, while on Sundays, Rye Emprium is a vast brocante held March through September, 8-2pm.
Visit Rye Castle
Fun for all the family, Rye Castle and its Ypres Tower date to the 13th century. You can climb the tower for far-reaching views, gander at the museum's collection, or let the little ones play dress up in the costume department.
Visit an art gallery
There are plenty to choose from. Try Mccully & Crane for vintage and antique collectables and object d'art, Roche Gallery for classical and still life paintings, Rye Art Gallery for exhibitions from local and international artists and Ethel Loves Me, which sells original pieces from local artists, artisans and craftspeople.
Go shopping
Rae is a boutique that wouldn't look out of place in London, with a Marzano coffee machine doling out the flat whites and a well-curated selection of homewares, gifts and tableware. Sailors of Rye is a wonderful concept store, Colette Rye offers sustainable and ethically-made clothes for women.
Head to the Nature Reserve
Rye Harbour Nature Reserve is set between marshland and the sea and is home to more than 4,355 species of plants and animals, including an impressive 300 that are rare or endangered. Birds are the big ticket item, so look out for Ringed Plover, Avocet, Oystercatcher, Redshank, Lapwing, and Wheatear while you stroll or cycle the network of pathways.
Where to eat in Rye
Brunch at The Fig
This lively, compact eaterie gets packed at the weekend, and the brunch is legendary. Fresh and healthy ingredients sourced as locally as possible are made into dishes like shakshuka, roasted tomatoes and whipped feta or sweetcorn fritters with chorizo. There's also great coffee by andbloss and smoothies and juices.
Have tea and cake at Apothecary House
The town is peppered with cafés, but this one is set inside an old apothecary, where old medicine bottles line the shelves and the higgledy piggledy layout lends the space a vintage charm. Order a slab of homemade lemon drizzle cake and a pot of tea and perch in the window to watch the world go by.
Order a hot chocolate at Knoops
Hot chocolate specialist Knoops has stores accross the UK but the story began in 2013 in Rye. The menu has more than 20 different per cent chocolates available as hot chocolates and six are available as iced chocolates and milkshakes.
Sunday lunch at The George in Rye
Hands down the best roast in Rye, but also a stellar choice for a dinner of elevated pub classics with a Basque, cooked-over-coals vibe, The George's restaurant is an elegant setting in which to enjoy a meal. Book ahead.
The best bars and pubs in Rye
Visit a local winery
Owing to those chalky dliffs in nearby Dover, the area's soil is perfect for growing chardonnay, meunier and pinot noir, otherwise known as champagne's holy trinity of grapes. For the Kent version, head to the highlighly regarded Chapel Down in nearby Tenterden, or, to see how Kent winemakers are experimenting with unlikely grapes and blends, Oxney Organic and trendy Tillingham are on Rye's doorstep.
Have a pint in a beer garden
There are 15 pubs in and around Rye to choose from – that's the most per capita in the county. Ypres and The Old Bell have lovely outside courtyard space, and at weekends Ypres has a lively atmosphere with occasional bands playing on the terrace. The Standard is known for its food, along with The George in Rye and, closer to Camber Sands, The Gallivant.
The best beaches near Rye
Dungeness
Dungeness is an odd place. It feels a little like Middle America when you're driving along the narrow road that weaves through the flat, featureless salt marsh towards the lighthouse. The single-story clapboard houses painted black look almost Nordic and as if plonked wherever their owners fancied. Very few have direct neighbours. Sitting incongruously on the pebble beach near the lighthouse is an enormous nuclear power station, the first Advanced Gas-cooled reactor to begin construction in the UK, which has become a symbol of the area.
Camber Sands
One of the only sandy beaches on the south coast, Camber Sands has a classic holiday village vibe, but the beach itself is expansive, so it rarely feels too crowded. Lay out a towel in front of the dunes or take a dip when the tide is in.
Emilee Tombs was a guest of The George in Rye, which has rooms from £125 per night, and Turo, the world's leading car-sharing marketplace.