How Dolce went from haute couture to Hollywood: Boutique Milanese brand used to hire local Italian women for their shows but are now dressing A-listers like the Kardashians and Lauren Sanchez for their weddings

Daily Mail​

13 hours ago

They burst on the scene in 1983, as the 'new talents' of Milanese fashion - but Dolce & Gabbana is now far from their origins of a small boutique store that used real Italian women for their first amateur runway show, as they have become Hollywood's 'haute couture' of choice.
Despite making its name largely through socialites, the brand, which dressed Amazon billionaire's fiancee Lauren Sanchez for their nuptials today, has become the go-to for a flurry of A-listers, including the Kardashians and Olivia Culpo.
Domenico Dolce, 66, and Stefano Gabbana, 62, were two 'nobodies' when they first crossed paths 43 years ago, who focused on building a relationship with 'ordinary' people.
The first ever campaign was shot in 1985, at a city market in Palermo; and the pair were so broke for their first collection, that they used friends in place of professional models, borrowed accessories from pals and subbed in a bedsheet for a stage curtain.
It's a far cry from the Demi Moore, Mariah Carey, and Monica Bellucci of it all - to name just some of the glitzy famous faces who have become associated with the label; despite their scandal-mired past.
Speaking to FEMAIL, brand expert Chad Teixeira explained that the designers' success in the luxury lies in their ability to understand what the demands of the elite are at any point in time.
'It's fascinating to observe the evolution of Dolce & Gabbana, from a bold, almost rough-around-the-edges newcomer in the late '80s, to a mainstay of elite social circles, and now arguably the go-to name for Hollywood's most high-profile moments,' he explained.
'What began as a Sicilian-inspired vision rooted in sensuality and Mediterranean drama has transformed into a luxury powerhouse that understands celebrity culture arguably better than any other fashion house today.'
Chad says that D&G's key role in Kourtney Kardashian's 2022 wedding was a 'major high point' for brand's pivot from high society to Hollywood.
'It signaled a full embrace of the spectacle, aligning D&G with the new era of influencer-celebrity royalty,' he explained. 'Now with Lauren Sánchez's wedding, they've solidified their place as the couture choice for the ultra-visible elite, and for those who want their personal brand of luxury broadcast to the world.'
Some critics - and fashion purists - have felt that the label's working with celebrities, particularly reality show stars - is a move away from a 'classy' clientele.
'As for the question of whether they've gone "tacky", that really depends on your perspective,' Chad continued.
'Dolce & Gabbana have never been about minimalism or restraint, they've always celebrated opulence, excess, and theatrical glamour. What some critics call "tacky", their clients would likely call aspirational.
'They've simply leaned harder into their identity, while understanding that in 2025, virality is just as valuable as Vogue approval.
'Where is it heading next? Likely toward even more bespoke, high-visibility moments that blend couture with celebrity storytelling. D&G isn't retreating into quiet luxury.
'If anything, they're owning maximalism in a way few other houses dare. That might not please purists, but from a brand strategy perspective, it's a masterclass in staying relevant in a constantly shifting cultural landscape.'
Also speaking to FEMAIL Oriona Robb - luxury fashion stylist and consultant - added that the brand cemented their legacy by being good at modernity as well as the vintage.
'Dolce & Gabbana is relevant because they understand that fashion today isn't just about the clothes, for them it's about the moment,' she said.
'They design for women who want to be seen, celebrated, and remembered. Whether it's a wedding, a red carpet, or a paparazzi-stalked vacation, D&G delivers fantasy, glamour, and drama in a way that feels both timeless and totally now.
Also speaking to FEMAIL Oriona Robb - luxury fashion stylist and consultant - added that the brand cemented their legacy by being good at modernity as well as the vintage.
'Dolce & Gabbana is relevant because they understand that fashion today isn't just about the clothes, for them it's about the moment,' she said.
'They design for women who want to be seen, celebrated, and remembered. Whether it's a wedding, a red carpet, or a paparazzi-stalked vacation, D&G delivers fantasy, glamour, and drama in a way that feels both timeless and totally now.
'They don't follow trends, they create cultural moments and aren't slowing down anytime soon.'
Speaking to Vogue in 2017, Domenico stressed that another key part of their appeal in both the haute and mainstream has been authenticity.
'If you want to speak to your audience, you need to talk about your experiences; your point of view, your life. Not just make twenty-five cool outfits,' he explained.
'If you're honest as a designer, you talk about your life. You don't talk about twenty-five outfits with a stylist going, "Is this cool like this?" No.'
Also speaking to the outlet, Stefano insisted that while D&G has become synonymous with the opulent and glamorous, that was never the sole aim, which is what he thinks about when he receives Instagram messages from shoppers complaining they can't afford his clothes.
'I say, "It's okay. You go to the market and you get something that looks like Dolce & Gabbana, and that's fine."
'We didn't start this job to make money. We started it because we love it. When you achieve a style and people recognise you for it, and they don't have money to buy it, it's fine.
'Buy a black bra and a black skirt in the market and you have Dolce & Gabbana style.'
Before rubbing shoulders with the famous brides of Los Angeles, D&G first cemented their status among the royals.
The label had courted the new generation of young elite and high society beauties to represent the brand.
Princess Diana 's niece Lady Kitty Spencer topped the best dressed lists at the Duke and Duchess's wedding in 2018, dazzling in a green floral dress from the Italian fashion house after modelling for the brand on several occasions.
A few years later, Dolce also designed her own wedding dress.
Speaking about the socialite's 2021 bridal gown, the designer discussed the importance of incorporating a love for the regal feel of the label's Italian roots into an individual's frock.
'One of the inspirations is definitely her love for Italy,' Domenico Dolce told Tatler. 'Kitty is in love with our beautiful country and its rich history, art and culture.'
Elsewhere, Lady Amelia Windsor has also being enlisted as a model by the brand alongside Princess Maria-Olympia of Greece.
The Princess of Wales herself has also given the brand her tacit seal of approval by introducing several of its pieces to her wardrobe when she started wearing more high end designer labels.
Violet and Alice Manners, the very glamorous and well connected daughters of the Duke of Rutland, have also hit the catwalk for the brand.
And in 2022, Kourtney Kardashian donned a lace and satin corseted mini-dress by the designer to marry Travis Barker in Portofino.
It was puzzling for some - as only in 2018 that Stefano had reportedly responded to an online photo of the Kardashians by commenting, 'The most cheap people in the world'.
However, all seemed to be forgotten, as the family has lauded the label and according to details shared on the D&G Instagram page, Kourtney's show stopping gown took inspiration from the iconic figures of the Italian lingerie and la dolce vita.
It explained how her corset enhanced her silhouette thanks rich design and exquisite cuts, with expert tailoring techniques to emphasize her femininity. The look was completed by tulle gloves and white lace pumps.
Several clothes in suit bags, labelled as being for Travis, were conveniently pictured next to a D&G shopping bag before being carried up a steep garden path into the rented house for the nuptials.
A pop up Dolce & Gabbana shop, describing itself as a Galleria d'Arte, had even been opened at market square piazza to capitalise on the public interest in the wedding.
Elsewhere, it now appears to also be part of the glam squad for Amazon tycoon Jeff Bezos' wedding - after an innocuous-seeming paparazzi photograph may have inadvertently revealed details about his fiancee Lauren 's fiercely-guarded bridal look.
A tour guide hired to welcome guests as they arrived in Venice for the $20 million wedding was snapped holding a clipboard of names.
Prominent among Beatrice Bavato's list - that included names, flight numbers, and hotel destinations - were members of Lauren's team for the day.
One of the most exciting names on the list is Sam Horowitz, whose LinkedIn revealed he works as a full-time sales executive at Dolce & Gabbana.
Many suggested his presence be confirmation that Lauren has decided to wear D&G on her big day.
Certainly this wouldn't be a huge surprise as the mother-of-three is known to be a fan of the Italian label - not least since they gave nepo baby modelling work to her 24-year-old son Nikko last year.
Lauren and Jeff were also spotted at D&G's iconic store in Milan for what appeared to be a dress-fitting in March.
As they left the shop, the couple were followed by an employee carrying white garment bags that may have contained their wedding outfits.
It's an impressive evolution for the brand, which has been mired in controversy - with Hollywood stars including Elton John even threatening to boycott it some years ago.
The designers have been accused of racism, homophobia (despite both men being gay and having been a couple for 18 years until 2004), misogyny and fraud.
D&G first got into serious trouble back in 2007 when they produced a print advert of a shirtless man pinning down a barely-dressed woman by the wrists as a trio of other men impassively look on.
Italian advertising regulators banned it for promoting 'gang rape' and it was condemned by everyone from Amnesty International to the Italian textile workers' union. The designers insisted that they were simply trying to 'recreate a game of seduction'.
Five years later, the pair stirred controversy in Hong Kong after locals – but not foreigners or mainland Chinese people – were seemingly barred from photographing the window displays of the city's two D&G stores, sparking large street protests.
Amid speculation that the mysterious ban was to spare Chinese Communist officials the embarrassment of being snapped shopping in such an expensive store, the company eventually apologised.
In 2013, the designers were criticised after sending their all-white models down the runway for their 2013 Spring/Summer collection wearing headscarves and large earrings featuring colonial-style 'Blackamoor' images of black women.
They denied accusations of racism and said the work had a valid cultural history in Sicily. Critics accepted this may have been true, but argued the choice still showed a tone-deafness to changing sensitivities surrounding race.
Elsewhere in 2016, the designers were slammed again, after calling a $2,395 shoe from their collection the 'slave sandal'. They issued an apology and this was later renamed.
Then, in 2018 when, to promote a major show in Shanghai, they released a series of videos featuring a Chinese model clumsily trying to eat Italian dishes such as spaghetti and pizza with chopsticks.
Within hours, #BoycottDolce was trending on Chinese social media site Weibo, with D&G stood accused of trivialising the nation's culture.
Leaked Instagram messages alleged to be from Stefano then showed him calling China the 'country of [poop emojis]' and 'Ignorant Dirty Smelling Mafia' - although he claimed he had been hacked.
The pair issued an apology for the adverts, stating: 'We have always been in love with China... We love your culture and we certainly have much to learn. That is why we are sorry if we made mistakes in the way we expressed ourselves.'
However, by that point celebrity Chinese endorsers deserted the Shanghai D&G event along with assorted models and influencers. The show was eventually cancelled, leaving the designers with a multi-million dollar financial loss which experts predicted could run into billions given the huge importance of China to luxury product sales.
In 2009, the pair were also charged with tax evasion in Italy after moving nearly 250 million euros to tax-friendly Luxembourg. They were found guilty in 2013 and handed prison sentences – but the convictions were overturned the following year.
In 2015, the pair gave an interview to Italian magazine Panorama in which Domenico struck out against IVF treatment, and – bizarrely – gay parenting and adoption.
He described children born through IVF as 'synthetic' and IVF pregnancies as 'rented uterus, semen chosen from a catalog'.
'You are born to a mother and a father, or at least that's how it should be,' he added.
After celebrities such as Elton John and Courtney Love expressed outrage – the former calling for a boycott of D&G – Stefano branded Elton a 'fascist' on Instagram.
Domenico eventually apologised and blamed his strict Catholic upbringing for the 'inappropriate' words, prompting Elton to accept the apology and announce he looked 'forward to wearing their designs once again'.
Others were less easily appeased. In 2017, Stefano had also admitted he'd been one of those who 'body shamed' pop star Lady Gaga after she exposed her bare midriff while performing at the Superbowl.
He later apologised only, the following year, to cause offense again.
Responding to a social media post inviting people to rate various outfits worn by actress Selena Gomez, Stefano wrote 'È proprio brutta!!!' ('she's so ugly').
He has, incidentally, also outrageously claimed that sexual harassment is a non-issue in Italy.
Certainly, the pair have made clear they enjoy controversy.
In 2017 when, blasted for dressing First Lady Melania Trump, they responded simply by putting out their own $245 '#Boycott Dolce & Gabbana' T-shirts.
Still, despite their myriad of controversy, it's clear they have still struck a chord with not just their peers, but a younger generation.
D&G's archive has been lauded by Gen Z, as retro sexy Sicilian designs continue to make the rounds on Instagram and Pinterest boards - so perhaps it's no wonder it continues to end up in the closets of the rich and famous.