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Daily Mail
7 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
How Dolce went from haute couture to Hollywood: Boutique Milanese brand used to hire local Italian women for their shows but are now dressing A-listers like the Kardashians and Lauren Sanchez for their weddings
They burst on the scene in 1983, as the 'new talents' of Milanese fashion - but Dolce & Gabbana is now far from their origins of a small boutique store that used real Italian women for their first amateur runway show, as they have become Hollywood's 'haute couture' of choice. Despite making its name largely through socialites, the brand, which dressed Amazon billionaire's fiancee Lauren Sanchez for their nuptials today, has become the go-to for a flurry of A-listers, including the Kardashians and Olivia Culpo. Domenico Dolce, 66, and Stefano Gabbana, 62, were two 'nobodies' when they first crossed paths 43 years ago, who focused on building a relationship with 'ordinary' people. The first ever campaign was shot in 1985, at a city market in Palermo; and the pair were so broke for their first collection, that they used friends in place of professional models, borrowed accessories from pals and subbed in a bedsheet for a stage curtain. It's a far cry from the Demi Moore, Mariah Carey, and Monica Bellucci of it all - to name just some of the glitzy famous faces who have become associated with the label; despite their scandal-mired past. Speaking to FEMAIL, brand expert Chad Teixeira explained that the designers' success in the luxury lies in their ability to understand what the demands of the elite are at any point in time. 'It's fascinating to observe the evolution of Dolce & Gabbana, from a bold, almost rough-around-the-edges newcomer in the late '80s, to a mainstay of elite social circles, and now arguably the go-to name for Hollywood's most high-profile moments,' he explained. 'What began as a Sicilian-inspired vision rooted in sensuality and Mediterranean drama has transformed into a luxury powerhouse that understands celebrity culture arguably better than any other fashion house today.' Chad says that D&G's key role in Kourtney Kardashian's 2022 wedding was a 'major high point' for brand's pivot from high society to Hollywood. 'It signaled a full embrace of the spectacle, aligning D&G with the new era of influencer-celebrity royalty,' he explained. 'Now with Lauren Sánchez's wedding, they've solidified their place as the couture choice for the ultra-visible elite, and for those who want their personal brand of luxury broadcast to the world.' Some critics - and fashion purists - have felt that the label's working with celebrities, particularly reality show stars - is a move away from a 'classy' clientele. 'As for the question of whether they've gone "tacky", that really depends on your perspective,' Chad continued. 'Dolce & Gabbana have never been about minimalism or restraint, they've always celebrated opulence, excess, and theatrical glamour. What some critics call "tacky", their clients would likely call aspirational. 'They've simply leaned harder into their identity, while understanding that in 2025, virality is just as valuable as Vogue approval. 'Where is it heading next? Likely toward even more bespoke, high-visibility moments that blend couture with celebrity storytelling. D&G isn't retreating into quiet luxury. 'If anything, they're owning maximalism in a way few other houses dare. That might not please purists, but from a brand strategy perspective, it's a masterclass in staying relevant in a constantly shifting cultural landscape.' Also speaking to FEMAIL Oriona Robb - luxury fashion stylist and consultant - added that the brand cemented their legacy by being good at modernity as well as the vintage. 'Dolce & Gabbana is relevant because they understand that fashion today isn't just about the clothes, for them it's about the moment,' she said. 'They design for women who want to be seen, celebrated, and remembered. Whether it's a wedding, a red carpet, or a paparazzi-stalked vacation, D&G delivers fantasy, glamour, and drama in a way that feels both timeless and totally now. Also speaking to FEMAIL Oriona Robb - luxury fashion stylist and consultant - added that the brand cemented their legacy by being good at modernity as well as the vintage. 'Dolce & Gabbana is relevant because they understand that fashion today isn't just about the clothes, for them it's about the moment,' she said. 'They design for women who want to be seen, celebrated, and remembered. Whether it's a wedding, a red carpet, or a paparazzi-stalked vacation, D&G delivers fantasy, glamour, and drama in a way that feels both timeless and totally now. 'They don't follow trends, they create cultural moments and aren't slowing down anytime soon.' Speaking to Vogue in 2017, Domenico stressed that another key part of their appeal in both the haute and mainstream has been authenticity. 'If you want to speak to your audience, you need to talk about your experiences; your point of view, your life. Not just make twenty-five cool outfits,' he explained. 'If you're honest as a designer, you talk about your life. You don't talk about twenty-five outfits with a stylist going, "Is this cool like this?" No.' Also speaking to the outlet, Stefano insisted that while D&G has become synonymous with the opulent and glamorous, that was never the sole aim, which is what he thinks about when he receives Instagram messages from shoppers complaining they can't afford his clothes. 'I say, "It's okay. You go to the market and you get something that looks like Dolce & Gabbana, and that's fine." 'We didn't start this job to make money. We started it because we love it. When you achieve a style and people recognise you for it, and they don't have money to buy it, it's fine. 'Buy a black bra and a black skirt in the market and you have Dolce & Gabbana style.' Before rubbing shoulders with the famous brides of Los Angeles, D&G first cemented their status among the royals. The label had courted the new generation of young elite and high society beauties to represent the brand. Princess Diana 's niece Lady Kitty Spencer topped the best dressed lists at the Duke and Duchess's wedding in 2018, dazzling in a green floral dress from the Italian fashion house after modelling for the brand on several occasions. A few years later, Dolce also designed her own wedding dress. Speaking about the socialite's 2021 bridal gown, the designer discussed the importance of incorporating a love for the regal feel of the label's Italian roots into an individual's frock. 'One of the inspirations is definitely her love for Italy,' Domenico Dolce told Tatler. 'Kitty is in love with our beautiful country and its rich history, art and culture.' Elsewhere, Lady Amelia Windsor has also being enlisted as a model by the brand alongside Princess Maria-Olympia of Greece. The Princess of Wales herself has also given the brand her tacit seal of approval by introducing several of its pieces to her wardrobe when she started wearing more high end designer labels. Violet and Alice Manners, the very glamorous and well connected daughters of the Duke of Rutland, have also hit the catwalk for the brand. And in 2022, Kourtney Kardashian donned a lace and satin corseted mini-dress by the designer to marry Travis Barker in Portofino. It was puzzling for some - as only in 2018 that Stefano had reportedly responded to an online photo of the Kardashians by commenting, 'The most cheap people in the world'. However, all seemed to be forgotten, as the family has lauded the label and according to details shared on the D&G Instagram page, Kourtney's show stopping gown took inspiration from the iconic figures of the Italian lingerie and la dolce vita. It explained how her corset enhanced her silhouette thanks rich design and exquisite cuts, with expert tailoring techniques to emphasize her femininity. The look was completed by tulle gloves and white lace pumps. Several clothes in suit bags, labelled as being for Travis, were conveniently pictured next to a D&G shopping bag before being carried up a steep garden path into the rented house for the nuptials. A pop up Dolce & Gabbana shop, describing itself as a Galleria d'Arte, had even been opened at market square piazza to capitalise on the public interest in the wedding. Elsewhere, it now appears to also be part of the glam squad for Amazon tycoon Jeff Bezos' wedding - after an innocuous-seeming paparazzi photograph may have inadvertently revealed details about his fiancee Lauren 's fiercely-guarded bridal look. A tour guide hired to welcome guests as they arrived in Venice for the $20 million wedding was snapped holding a clipboard of names. Prominent among Beatrice Bavato's list - that included names, flight numbers, and hotel destinations - were members of Lauren's team for the day. One of the most exciting names on the list is Sam Horowitz, whose LinkedIn revealed he works as a full-time sales executive at Dolce & Gabbana. Many suggested his presence be confirmation that Lauren has decided to wear D&G on her big day. Certainly this wouldn't be a huge surprise as the mother-of-three is known to be a fan of the Italian label - not least since they gave nepo baby modelling work to her 24-year-old son Nikko last year. Lauren and Jeff were also spotted at D&G's iconic store in Milan for what appeared to be a dress-fitting in March. As they left the shop, the couple were followed by an employee carrying white garment bags that may have contained their wedding outfits. It's an impressive evolution for the brand, which has been mired in controversy - with Hollywood stars including Elton John even threatening to boycott it some years ago. The designers have been accused of racism, homophobia (despite both men being gay and having been a couple for 18 years until 2004), misogyny and fraud. D&G first got into serious trouble back in 2007 when they produced a print advert of a shirtless man pinning down a barely-dressed woman by the wrists as a trio of other men impassively look on. Italian advertising regulators banned it for promoting 'gang rape' and it was condemned by everyone from Amnesty International to the Italian textile workers' union. The designers insisted that they were simply trying to 'recreate a game of seduction'. Five years later, the pair stirred controversy in Hong Kong after locals – but not foreigners or mainland Chinese people – were seemingly barred from photographing the window displays of the city's two D&G stores, sparking large street protests. Amid speculation that the mysterious ban was to spare Chinese Communist officials the embarrassment of being snapped shopping in such an expensive store, the company eventually apologised. In 2013, the designers were criticised after sending their all-white models down the runway for their 2013 Spring/Summer collection wearing headscarves and large earrings featuring colonial-style 'Blackamoor' images of black women. They denied accusations of racism and said the work had a valid cultural history in Sicily. Critics accepted this may have been true, but argued the choice still showed a tone-deafness to changing sensitivities surrounding race. Elsewhere in 2016, the designers were slammed again, after calling a $2,395 shoe from their collection the 'slave sandal'. They issued an apology and this was later renamed. Then, in 2018 when, to promote a major show in Shanghai, they released a series of videos featuring a Chinese model clumsily trying to eat Italian dishes such as spaghetti and pizza with chopsticks. Within hours, #BoycottDolce was trending on Chinese social media site Weibo, with D&G stood accused of trivialising the nation's culture. Leaked Instagram messages alleged to be from Stefano then showed him calling China the 'country of [poop emojis]' and 'Ignorant Dirty Smelling Mafia' - although he claimed he had been hacked. The pair issued an apology for the adverts, stating: 'We have always been in love with China... We love your culture and we certainly have much to learn. That is why we are sorry if we made mistakes in the way we expressed ourselves.' However, by that point celebrity Chinese endorsers deserted the Shanghai D&G event along with assorted models and influencers. The show was eventually cancelled, leaving the designers with a multi-million dollar financial loss which experts predicted could run into billions given the huge importance of China to luxury product sales. In 2009, the pair were also charged with tax evasion in Italy after moving nearly 250 million euros to tax-friendly Luxembourg. They were found guilty in 2013 and handed prison sentences – but the convictions were overturned the following year. In 2015, the pair gave an interview to Italian magazine Panorama in which Domenico struck out against IVF treatment, and – bizarrely – gay parenting and adoption. He described children born through IVF as 'synthetic' and IVF pregnancies as 'rented uterus, semen chosen from a catalog'. 'You are born to a mother and a father, or at least that's how it should be,' he added. After celebrities such as Elton John and Courtney Love expressed outrage – the former calling for a boycott of D&G – Stefano branded Elton a 'fascist' on Instagram. Domenico eventually apologised and blamed his strict Catholic upbringing for the 'inappropriate' words, prompting Elton to accept the apology and announce he looked 'forward to wearing their designs once again'. Others were less easily appeased. In 2017, Stefano had also admitted he'd been one of those who 'body shamed' pop star Lady Gaga after she exposed her bare midriff while performing at the Superbowl. He later apologised only, the following year, to cause offense again. Responding to a social media post inviting people to rate various outfits worn by actress Selena Gomez, Stefano wrote 'È proprio brutta!!!' ('she's so ugly'). He has, incidentally, also outrageously claimed that sexual harassment is a non-issue in Italy. Certainly, the pair have made clear they enjoy controversy. In 2017 when, blasted for dressing First Lady Melania Trump, they responded simply by putting out their own $245 '#Boycott Dolce & Gabbana' T-shirts. Still, despite their myriad of controversy, it's clear they have still struck a chord with not just their peers, but a younger generation. D&G's archive has been lauded by Gen Z, as retro sexy Sicilian designs continue to make the rounds on Instagram and Pinterest boards - so perhaps it's no wonder it continues to end up in the closets of the rich and famous.
The Guardian
10 hours ago
- Entertainment
- The Guardian
TV tonight: Charli xcx is about to send the Glastonbury crowd wild
10.30pm, BBC One You're not bothered about not being there either, right? Why would we be when we can enjoy one of the world's best music festivals from our living rooms, safe in the knowledge that a nice, clean loo is next door … Anyway, the BBC has coverage all day but – despite not being the headline act (Neil Young is playing the Pyramid) – Saturday night is all about lime-green queen of brat summer, Charli xcx, who's about to send the crowd wild at the Other stage. Hollie Richardson 4.55pm, Channel 4 A cooling cucumber-based green gazpacho sounds like a heatwave hero for the tastebuds – so take note of Jamie Oliver's recipe here. Other summer ideas include barbecued sweet peppers, plum sauce and crispy duck, and a showstopping sour cherry frangipane tart. HR 8pm, Channel 5 The irrepressible wanderer heads to the Mediterranean island for the weekend, starting in the gorgeous capital Palermo – where he, naturally, has dinner with a duchess. Also on the agenda: exploring the island's Mafia ties, discovering ancient sites and watching the revival of a grand palazzo. HR 8pm, BBC Four Glastonbury still hasn't run out of old pop giants whose aura will give an evening in the Somerset sun a whole new energy. The 67-year-old king of the Numanoids makes his festival debut on the Park stage – Cars and Are Friends Electric? will get the crowd singing, but Numan's eccentric magnetism will be just as captivating. Jack Seale 11pm, ITV1 Vanessa and Scott interrogate the suspects about Leo's kidnapping ('help convince our American friends you're just a finance manager having a really bad day') but come up with handfuls of air. Meanwhile, Sean travels from Ireland to England, leaving a trail of destruction in his wake. Then, a startling video emerges. Ali Catterall 11.45pm, BBC One The tennis legend's account of her 27-year career reaches the 2000s, when the murder of her older sister, Yetunde Prince, precipitated a number of dark years, during which she dropped out of the tennis Top 100. Then came the 2007 Australian Open, and one of the all-time-great comebacks. Ellen E Jones Glory, 12:30am, Channel 4 Ed Zwick's recent memoir Hits, Flops, and Other Illusions has much to recommend it (not least the astonishing bridge-burning chapter about his involvement with Shakespeare in Love), but chief among its qualities is how much it will make you want to rewatch Glory. Zwick's film about an African American regiment in the civil war is a true epic. The script swings for the fences. Cinematically it spills from the screen. And, let's not forget, this is the movie that announced Denzel Washington as a major presence. He still may not have bettered this performance. Stuart Heritage Horseracing: Newcastle, 1.30, ITV1 With the Northumberland Plate, plus racing from York and the Curagh. Football: Uefa European Under-21's Championship, 7.30pm, Channel 4 The final from Slovakia.
Yahoo
17 hours ago
- Sport
- Yahoo
Lecce left-back Gallo targeted by Besiktas
Another Italian full-back could be on his way out of Serie A, as there are reports Besiktas are in negotiations for Lecce player Antonino Gallo. According to Tuttomercatoweb, Gallo is not expected to remain at Lecce next season after they narrowly managed to avoid relegation. Advertisement Besiktas have set their sights on the 25-year-old, although talks are still at a very early stage. Gallo expected to leave Lecce LECCE, ITALY – DECEMBER 01: Antonino Gallo of Lecce competes for the ball with Francisco Conceicao of Juventus during the Serie A match between Lecce and Juventus at Stadio Via del Mare on December 01, 2024 in Lecce, Italy. (Photo by) The asking price would be in the region of €7m, a significant profit considering he was snapped up as a free agent from Palermo in 2019. His contract at the Stadio Via del Mare only runs to June 2026, but there is an option to extend by a further year too. The left-back made 33 competitive appearances for Lecce this season between Serie A and the Coppa Italia, contributing three assists. There does seem to be a trend for left-backs to leave Italy this summer, as Atalanta have agreed to sell Matteo Ruggeri to Atletico Madrid.
CNN
6 days ago
- CNN
Recovered Bayesian superyacht transferred to Sicilian port after being raised from seabed
A British-flagged luxury superyacht that sank off Sicily last year, killing UK tech magnate Mike Lynch and six others, completed its final trip to the Sicilian port of Termini Imerese Sunday, a day after recovery crews finalized the complex operation to lift it out of the water. The white top and blue hull of the 56-meter (184-foot) Bayesian, covered with algae and mud, was kept elevated by the yellow floating crane barge off the port of Porticello, before being transferred to Termini Imerese, where it docked in the early afternoon. On Monday, the delicate recovery operation will be concluded, as the vessel will be transported to shore and settled in a specially built steel cradle. Then it will be made available for investigators for further examinations to help determine the cause of the sinking. The Bayesian sank Aug. 19 off Porticello, near Palermo, during a violent storm as Lynch was treating friends to a cruise to celebrate his acquittal two months earlier in the US on fraud charges. Lynch, his daughter and five others died. Fifteen people survived, including the captain and all crew members except the chef. Italian authorities are conducting a full criminal investigation. The vessel was slowly raised from the seabed 50 meters (165 feet) deep over three days to allow the steel lifting straps, slings and harnesses to be secured under the keel. The Bayesian is missing its 72-meter (236-foot) mast, which was cut off and left on the seabed for future removal. The mast had to be detached to allow the hull to be brought to a nearly upright position that would allow the craft to be raised. British investigators said in an interim report issued last month that the yacht was knocked over by 'extreme wind' and couldn't recover. The report said the crew of the Bayesian had chosen the site where it sank as shelter from forecast thunderstorms. Wind speeds exceeded 70 knots (81 mph) at the time of the sinking and 'violently' knocked the vessel over to a 90-degree angle in under 15 seconds.
CNN
6 days ago
- CNN
Recovered Bayesian superyacht transferred to Sicilian port after being raised from seabed
A British-flagged luxury superyacht that sank off Sicily last year, killing UK tech magnate Mike Lynch and six others, completed its final trip to the Sicilian port of Termini Imerese Sunday, a day after recovery crews finalized the complex operation to lift it out of the water. The white top and blue hull of the 56-meter (184-foot) Bayesian, covered with algae and mud, was kept elevated by the yellow floating crane barge off the port of Porticello, before being transferred to Termini Imerese, where it docked in the early afternoon. On Monday, the delicate recovery operation will be concluded, as the vessel will be transported to shore and settled in a specially built steel cradle. Then it will be made available for investigators for further examinations to help determine the cause of the sinking. The Bayesian sank Aug. 19 off Porticello, near Palermo, during a violent storm as Lynch was treating friends to a cruise to celebrate his acquittal two months earlier in the US on fraud charges. Lynch, his daughter and five others died. Fifteen people survived, including the captain and all crew members except the chef. Italian authorities are conducting a full criminal investigation. The vessel was slowly raised from the seabed 50 meters (165 feet) deep over three days to allow the steel lifting straps, slings and harnesses to be secured under the keel. The Bayesian is missing its 72-meter (236-foot) mast, which was cut off and left on the seabed for future removal. The mast had to be detached to allow the hull to be brought to a nearly upright position that would allow the craft to be raised. British investigators said in an interim report issued last month that the yacht was knocked over by 'extreme wind' and couldn't recover. The report said the crew of the Bayesian had chosen the site where it sank as shelter from forecast thunderstorms. Wind speeds exceeded 70 knots (81 mph) at the time of the sinking and 'violently' knocked the vessel over to a 90-degree angle in under 15 seconds.
