Dermatologists Agree This Is The Only Face Wash You Need for Healthy Skin
Has anyone out there tried to buy a face wash lately? Confusing, right?
With approximately one bazillion or so options, including cleansers that foam, ones that have exfoliating beads, and bi-phase options that look like a mini science experiment, you may be left wondering which one is best for a little face time. Sure, we're all for choices—and it's great that there's something for every skin type and concern—but here's an unexpected take: There's really just one kind of face wash that dermatologists say most people can—and probably should—be using daily.
And your choice of cleanser is important—the right one can set you up for skincare success, the wrong one can leave you with problems you didn't begin with. That's because cleansing is an essential step in any skincare routine, removing pore-clogging dirt and grime that can lead to breakouts and irritation, not to mention act as a barrier to prevent other active skincare ingredients from penetrating.
Meet the experts: Geeta Yadav, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology in Toronto. Omer Ibrahim, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago. Morayo Adisa, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago.
Ahead, more on why one particular formula is best, exactly which ingredients to seek out (and skip), plus the one exception to this cleanser rule.
Before we get to the what, let's talk about the why. Washing your face removes all of the stuff that builds up on your skin during the day. We're talking oil, dead cells, sweat, bacteria, makeup, products, pollution…should we go on? Leaving all of this on your skin increases the risk for clogged pores, breakouts, increased inflammation, and even accelerated aging, explains Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of FACET Dermatology in Toronto.
Here's the thing: you really don't need to wash your face twice a day. Since the important thing is to remove all of the day's gunk and grime, nighttime cleansing is essential. A morning wash? Totally optional, says Omer Ibrahim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago. If your skin is super oily or you just like starting your day with a clean slate, go ahead and wash in the AM also.
But as long as you're cleansing at least once daily, before bedtime, that's totally sufficient.
When in doubt, always reach for a gentle cream or lotion cleanser. These formulas are dermatologist go-tos because they're skin barrier-friendly, meaning they effectively cleanse without stripping your skin's natural oils and upping the odds of dryness and irritation.
Just don't expect 'em to bubble up. Yes, foam makes for a nice sensorial experience, but it's completely unnecessary to the cleansing process. And those suds are typically created by a class of strong, detergent-like surfactants called sulfates that can end up removing way too much of your skin's natural oil, called sebum, says Dr. Ibrahim. And when that happens, your complexion will be left drier than before and at risk for even more irritation.
Cream cleansers do use surfactants, but they rely on non-sulfate alternatives like cocamidopropyl betaine and sulfosuccinates to get the job done, Dr. Ibrahim adds. They effectively remove what needs to go without any collateral damage.It's a classic for a reason: Cetaphil's non-foaming wash is infused with humectant glycerin as well as niacinamide and panthenol to remove dirt and grime while hydrating skin for up to 48 hours. And it's derm-recommended for even the most sensitive skin.
$13.44 at amazon.comWith barrier-healing ceramides and hyaluronic acid, it's no wonder this soft-touch formula carries the National Eczema Association Seal of Acceptance. But just because it's gentle doesn't mean it's ineffective: This one removes face makeup and excess oil.
$13.93 at amazon.comAnother National Eczema Association seal holder, Vanicream's cleanser is free of harsh surfactants, ph-balanced, fragrance-free, and loaded with hydrating glycerin.
$12.99 at ulta.comIn addition to checking all of the boxes (milky, non-foaming formula, filled with hydrators like glycerin and ceramides, and safe for sensitive skin), this one has the added benefit of La Roche-Posay's thermal spring water, which has soothing and antioxidant properties.
$19.99 at ulta.com'At the end of the day, your cleanser should be basic with no frills,' says Dr. Ibrahim. That means you're looking for just a handful of good-for-your-skin ingredients: 'Humectants such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid are good ones to spy on an ingredient label because they're lightweight moisturizers,' explains Morayo Adisa, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago. (They work by attracting water to and trapping it in the skin.) 'Ceramides, squalene, and niacinamide are also good choices because they all help to hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier,' she adds.
On the no-fly list? Those sulfates we just talked about—the most popular being sodium lauryl sulfate—which tend to be very drying, Dr. Adisa points out. You'll also want to make sure said creamy cleanser is fragrance-free. Fragrance is one of the most common causes of both skin allergies and irritation, says Dr. Ibrahim.
Those with normal, dry, or sensitive skin, and those eczema or rosacea can all default to a simple, creamy wash, says Dr. Ibrahim. Oily and acne-prone skin is the exception to the rule. 'These skin types often do best with gel or foaming cleansers, which are better at breaking down that excess sebum,' Dr. Yadav explains. In this instance, you actually do want more of that oil-removing action and sulfates aren't necessarily that problematic, Dr. Ibrahim adds.
These skin types will also want to look for a wash that contains other exfoliating, complexion clearing ingredients. Dr. Yadav is a big fan of salicylic acid in particular: 'It can penetrate into pores to break down dead cells that cause congestion and breakouts,' she says. Dr. Adisa adds that lactic and glycolic acids are also good for oily skin, as are clay and sulfur.
You've got your cleanser, so...now what? Paying a little extra attention to your face washing M.O. can go a long way.
Wash your hands. Remember, the goal is to remove dirt and grime, not add more to the mix.
Wet your face. Importantly, make sure you're using lukewarm water. If it's too hot, the H2O can dry out the skin and cause inflammation. But cold water isn't as effective at dissolving and removing dirt, oil, and makeup, Dr. Adisa explains.
Start the cleanse. Gently massage a nickel- or quarter-size dollop of cleanser across your face with your fingertips, moving in circular motions for about 30 to 60 seconds, says Dr. Ibrahim.
Rinse and pat dry. Again, use lukewarm water and make sure your towel is clean. This isn't the time to reach for the grimy hand towel that's been hanging in your bathroom for weeks. Single-use, disposable options are super hygienic, though admittedly not the most eco-friendly; you can also keep a dedicated face towel at the ready and swap it out daily.
One important caveat: If you're wearing a full face of makeup, particularly waterproof or long-wearing formulas, a double cleanse isn't a bad idea. Start by using a dedicated makeup remover to first dissolve all of that product, then go in with your cleanser, Dr. Adisa advises. Getting rid of that first layer of product will ensure that the face wash can then actually clean the skin.
And there you have it—the ideal first step of your routine, including the best product to use and exactly how to do it. Now, go forth in skincare success.
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