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How to enjoy Madrid like a local during the deep sizzle of summer

How to enjoy Madrid like a local during the deep sizzle of summer

Boston Globe5 days ago
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The Madrid summer schedule is glorious; if you do it right, it feels like an actual vacation.
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Hear me out: Madrid has a lot going for it. The common refrain among travelers is that Madrid lacks the panache of Barcelona. True, Madrid does not have an abundance of Antoni Gaudí architecture, beaches, or Las Ramblas. Want to know what else it lacks? Locals who
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The mural "Isabelita," by artist Fin DAC, adorns the side of the Mercado de Antón Martín.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
But don't waste your time comparing the cities. Madrid has a unique flavor. There are incredible museums, restaurants, shops, and a 350-acre park where you can escape under the trees and relax. JetBlue has a new non-stop flight between Boston and
Before I arrived, I was fretting over the forecast. It called for sunny weather with a daily high temperature of 95 to 100 degrees. I looked at my itinerary, the forecast, and my itinerary again. I then Googled 'What are the signs of heat stroke?'
Heat or no, I was determined to conquer Madrid. On my first night, I dressed up for dinner and set out for a charming restaurant called
The evening thunderstorms subsided, and I was ready for dinner. Unfortunately for me and my new pants, the sidewalks were still wet and slick. In my rush to get to dinner, I slipped and fell in a spectacularly unflattering fashion. Bam! Think giraffe on ice skates. While sitting on the muddy sidewalk, I took inventory. I was sore, my hand was scraped up, but nothing felt broken.
Two kind individuals sitting in a bar across the street witnessed my fall (ugh) and ran over to see if I was OK. They helped me to my feet and asked if I needed to go to the hospital. I assumed they were there to steal my phone or wallet. I brushed myself off as best I could, told them I was fine, and escaped to Bipolar for my mini pork belly ciabatta, which I recommend, along with the steak tartar and the lemon pie.
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Don't judge. The stress of the fall made me hungry.
While walking back to my hotel, I heard familiar voices. I realized I was in front of the open-air bar where the kindly potential thieves had watched me fall.
'¿Estás bien?' one of them asked as she looked over my muddy pants.
These two caring, non-theiving locals, Sofia and Miguel, were not trying to fleece me; they were generally concerned for my well-being. While I was eating at Bipolar, they were having pre-dinner cocktails and speculating on my condition. I assured them I was OK. They bought me a glass of wine, the best medicine for whatever may be wrong. They were fascinated that I was writing a story about Madrid, and offered to share their knowledge.
The muddy, embarrassing fall was one of the best things that could have happened. Miguel and Sofia wanted to play tour guides, and I was happy to absorb their suggestions. Remember, if you fall in Spain and someone comes over to help, don't dismiss them as a thief.
King Carlos III and his horse are memorialized in the Plaza de la Puerta in Madrid.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Some lessons I learned from my new Spanish friends: Don't start your day early in Madrid. This is not a culture of early risers. This city is where people have dinner at 10 or 11 p.m. and perhaps a cup of espresso to finish the night. They also warned me that the hottest part of the day here is not midday, it's usually around 6 p.m. During the summer, the sun rises about 7 a.m. and sets at 10 p.m. These may seem like minor details, but they're essential when planning activities and meals.
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Armed with this information and many bruises from my fall, I constructed a perfect schedule. I left mornings open for leisurely exploring neighborhoods on foot. By midday, when the temperatures began to rise, I sought shelter by spending time in museums or shops. I followed that with a late lunch and then a siesta at my hotel for a few hours. In the early evening, I'd head out again —
also, I took many showers.
I picked a centrally located hotel and double-checked that it had AC. My hotel,
Once I had the routine, the rest was easy. I knew I needed to visit the
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Art lovers beat the heat in the wonderfully air-conditioned Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía in Madrid.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
The Prado is part of Madrid's so-called Golden Triangle of Art. The other two sides of the triangle are the
Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía is the city's modern art museum with a 20th-century collection of works by prominent Spanish artists such as Dali, Picasso, and Miro. Crowds gathered in front of Picasso's 1937 painting ″Guernica," which is easily the most recognizable painting here. I thought the massive Miro sculpture in the courtyard was equally impressive. Of the three museums, my favorite was the Thyssen-Bornemisza, which spans all decades and styles and fills the gaps left in the other collections.
If you have more days and time for museum exploration, try the
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Another favorite post-breakfast activity was shopping. Honestly, it's one of my favorite activities at any time of the day. This will sound a bit predictable, but I recommend checking out the department store
Le Integral, a shop in Madrid's Barrio de las Letras, sells everything from records to pillows featuring singer Grace Jones.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
If you're looking for souvenirs, skip the tourist haunts and pick up a T-shirt at
The band Air performs as part of the Noches del Botánico concert series in Madrid's Real Jardín Botánico Alfonso XIII.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
The city starts waking up once the sun sinks in the evening sky. One of my favorite bands happened to be performing in Madrid while I was there. Fortunately, for me, they were at
Another of my favorite evening escapes was the 325-acre Retiro Park. People called it Madrid's version of Central Park, but I found Retiro to be much more of an escape. You can hide in a shady nook if you want to avoid other people. Or, if you want to be a part of the action, rent a boat at the park's man-made lake. Normally, I would have skipped the
Spain's capital may not have a proper beach, but the large, man-made lake in Retiro Park is a popular spot to sunbathe or rent a boat.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
Before dinner each night, I'd meet Miguel and Sofia to talk about the places where I'd been (inevitably, they told me I missed about a dozen places that I should have seen), and then we'd talk about the plan for the night. These daily briefings were held at both small taverns and sprawling rooftop bars. On the last night of my trip, we met at the top of the
'You can't leave tomorrow,' Sofia told me when I reminded her that my flight was the next day. 'You've barely scratched the surface.'
The roof deck at Círculo de Bellas Artes in Madrid is filled on a warm June night.
Christopher Muther/Globe Staff
She was right. I had barely scratched the surface. But a good vacation should always leave you wanting more. And I left wanting to experience more of Madrid. Next time, hopefully, I'll experience it without slipping and falling on a muddy sidewalk.
Christopher Muther can be reached at
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Get Starting Point A guide through the most important stories of the morning, delivered Monday through Friday. Enter Email Sign Up The Madrid summer schedule is glorious; if you do it right, it feels like an actual vacation. Advertisement Hear me out: Madrid has a lot going for it. The common refrain among travelers is that Madrid lacks the panache of Barcelona. True, Madrid does not have an abundance of Antoni Gaudí architecture, beaches, or Las Ramblas. Want to know what else it lacks? Locals who Advertisement The mural "Isabelita," by artist Fin DAC, adorns the side of the Mercado de Antón Martín. Christopher Muther/Globe Staff But don't waste your time comparing the cities. Madrid has a unique flavor. There are incredible museums, restaurants, shops, and a 350-acre park where you can escape under the trees and relax. JetBlue has a new non-stop flight between Boston and Before I arrived, I was fretting over the forecast. It called for sunny weather with a daily high temperature of 95 to 100 degrees. I looked at my itinerary, the forecast, and my itinerary again. I then Googled 'What are the signs of heat stroke?' Heat or no, I was determined to conquer Madrid. On my first night, I dressed up for dinner and set out for a charming restaurant called The evening thunderstorms subsided, and I was ready for dinner. Unfortunately for me and my new pants, the sidewalks were still wet and slick. In my rush to get to dinner, I slipped and fell in a spectacularly unflattering fashion. Bam! Think giraffe on ice skates. While sitting on the muddy sidewalk, I took inventory. I was sore, my hand was scraped up, but nothing felt broken. Two kind individuals sitting in a bar across the street witnessed my fall (ugh) and ran over to see if I was OK. They helped me to my feet and asked if I needed to go to the hospital. I assumed they were there to steal my phone or wallet. 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At Miami Beach in Old Lyme, Conn., summer arrives each year with the scent of salt air; the dinging of bicycle bells ringing on their way to the water along Long Island Sound; and the many flavors of Italian ice from ALEXA GAGOSZ Winthrop Beach, Winthrop Winthrop Beach is my favorite near-city beach. There is plenty of room and even on the busiest days, you can find space to lay out. The sand is super fine and comfortable, and the five breakwaters, known as 'The Five Sisters,' make the water calmer for swimming while protecting the shoreline. Pick any time during the day and you'll be happy. KEN MAHAN A couple walked along the shore of Narragansett Town Beach on Sept. 15, 2021. John Tlumacki/Globe Staff Narragansett Town Beach, Naragansett, R.I. It's hot, it's crowded, but it's always a good time. This is where I spent most of my youth, and on any given summer day you'd run into at least five people you knew (this is Rhode Island, after all). 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Park on Farragut Road for easy access to the storied food stand while avoiding the worst of the traffic jams. Order cheese fries and a lobster roll! On Sunday, my sister and I walked south along the bay and took advantage of plentiful shade under gazebos and leafy trees near the Pleasure Bay Flag Pole. I'd recommend taking a dip in the bay just north of the flag. From there, we biked past M Street Beach and L Street Beach, all the way to Carson Beach. You can't beat the people watching and harbor views, all without having to leave Boston! CLAIRE THORNTON A girl went barefoot on the beach while working on her sculpture at Revere Beach on July 18, 2024. David L. Ryan/Globe Staff Revere Beach, Revere For my beach days, I prioritize food. And there is simply nothing better than a steaming hot, gooey slice of cheese pizza. That's why Revere Beach, just a few Blue Line stops away from the city, is my go-to on a sweltering day. 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