Huishan Zhang's latest line channels socialites and sophistication.

Forbes

20 hours ago

Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang
For his Resort 2026 collection, London-based designer Huishan Zhang looked to one of the most infamous New York socialites, Nan Kempner. A woman known for her presence and influence in fashion and society, she was a generation-defining socialite who's circle included the chic and and the cultured, from Yves Saint Laurent (he once described her having 'the body of a hanger' which she took as the highest compliment), to Diana Vreeland, Bill Blass, and fellow uptown girl Babe Paley.
Nan Kempner and Kenneth Jay Lane, preview, Christie's auction house, New York, New York, 1989. (Photo by) Getty Images
She exuded elegance but she wasn't without a rebellious streak, famously dining at a brasserie in just her Saint Laurent blazer after being told trousers weren't allowed. It was defiance but Nan made it chic, and it's exactly this spirit that Zhang channels in his latest collection.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang
Expect his signature head-turning silhouettes, sophistication and feminine strength, as well as embroidery that serves as both intricate decoration and armor.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang
Here, Zhang talks about his latest collection, from muses to couture mastery, structure to softness, and eternal elegance.
Huishan Zhang: For me, Nan's beauty truly embodies a natural sophistication that is paired with a rebellious spirit that is totally unapologetic yet so refined. This is what really sets the tone for this collection. We can't talk about Nan without mentioning that iconic moment of her removing her Saint Laurent trousers and nonchalantly wearing just the jacket to dine at a brasserie. Her confidence is assertive but with no intention to intimidate. That's exactly the spirit that I wanted to capture for Resort 26.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang
HZ: Elegance versus rebellion is a key theme that runs through this collection. Nan's rebellion was never loud or vulgar but always quietly confident and effortlessly elegant. That was the energy I wanted to convey in this collection and in the clothes. From the strength of the tailoring and structure of the tweed sets, and subversiveness of our faux leather that is balanced by the sensuality of the embroidered slip dresses and the softness and fluidity of the evening wear. It's this idea of the elements that contrast harmoniously coinciding together.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: How did you approach the tension between masculine tailoring and feminine detail?
HZ: It goes back to this interplay between softness and structure. I wanted to build a synergy between the juxtaposition of masculine tailoring and feminine sensuality. The silhouette in the collection is defined by the tension between fluidity and form. Structure builds the core of this collection, and the fluid fabrics, delicate sheer layering and intricate embellishments gives character and emotion.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: The embroidery is described as both armour and adornment, which look reflects this the most?
HZ: Look 3 is a good reflection of this notion. The embroidery and embellishment on the sensual sheer soft slip skirt adds a decadent and decorative element, but it also creates a layer of weight and structure that accentuates the silhouette and acts as a protective cage-like armour that shields the lower body.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: How does the Resort 2026 collection connect to what you've done before and where you're going?
HZ: For me it's about creating a design language that consistently continues to empower confidence in femininity, and to reinforce the strength of quiet elegance. For Resort 2026, I wanted to make the identity and portrait of our woman more vivid and assertive, and how she dresses and what she wears is just a natural extension of her character.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: What's one detail in this collection that people might miss but that means a lot to you?
HZ: The fabrication in all the tailoring pieces in this collection has elasticity in them, which you will not be aware of from just the images. Although the cuts are structured and tailored in its silhouette, the stretch in the fabric allows for movement and comfort. It's important for me that the woman wearing my collections feels confident and can approach her every day with ease. The feeling of restraint and restriction in clothing kills one's confidence completely.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: What's one rule of elegant dressing that always guides your approach?
HZ: The one rule to elegant dressing is that it needs to feel natural and not imposed. For me, true elegance comes from within, and the clothing and how your dress should just effortlessly compliment that.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang
See more on huishanzhang.com.