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Forbes
08-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Huishan Zhang's latest line channels socialites and sophistication.
Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang For his Resort 2026 collection, London-based designer Huishan Zhang looked to one of the most infamous New York socialites, Nan Kempner. A woman known for her presence and influence in fashion and society, she was a generation-defining socialite who's circle included the chic and and the cultured, from Yves Saint Laurent (he once described her having 'the body of a hanger' which she took as the highest compliment), to Diana Vreeland, Bill Blass, and fellow uptown girl Babe Paley. Nan Kempner and Kenneth Jay Lane, preview, Christie's auction house, New York, New York, 1989. (Photo by) Getty Images She exuded elegance but she wasn't without a rebellious streak, famously dining at a brasserie in just her Saint Laurent blazer after being told trousers weren't allowed. It was defiance but Nan made it chic, and it's exactly this spirit that Zhang channels in his latest collection. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang Expect his signature head-turning silhouettes, sophistication and feminine strength, as well as embroidery that serves as both intricate decoration and armor. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang Here, Zhang talks about his latest collection, from muses to couture mastery, structure to softness, and eternal elegance. Huishan Zhang: For me, Nan's beauty truly embodies a natural sophistication that is paired with a rebellious spirit that is totally unapologetic yet so refined. This is what really sets the tone for this collection. We can't talk about Nan without mentioning that iconic moment of her removing her Saint Laurent trousers and nonchalantly wearing just the jacket to dine at a brasserie. Her confidence is assertive but with no intention to intimidate. That's exactly the spirit that I wanted to capture for Resort 26. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang HZ: Elegance versus rebellion is a key theme that runs through this collection. Nan's rebellion was never loud or vulgar but always quietly confident and effortlessly elegant. That was the energy I wanted to convey in this collection and in the clothes. From the strength of the tailoring and structure of the tweed sets, and subversiveness of our faux leather that is balanced by the sensuality of the embroidered slip dresses and the softness and fluidity of the evening wear. It's this idea of the elements that contrast harmoniously coinciding together. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: How did you approach the tension between masculine tailoring and feminine detail? HZ: It goes back to this interplay between softness and structure. I wanted to build a synergy between the juxtaposition of masculine tailoring and feminine sensuality. The silhouette in the collection is defined by the tension between fluidity and form. Structure builds the core of this collection, and the fluid fabrics, delicate sheer layering and intricate embellishments gives character and emotion. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: The embroidery is described as both armour and adornment, which look reflects this the most? HZ: Look 3 is a good reflection of this notion. The embroidery and embellishment on the sensual sheer soft slip skirt adds a decadent and decorative element, but it also creates a layer of weight and structure that accentuates the silhouette and acts as a protective cage-like armour that shields the lower body. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: How does the Resort 2026 collection connect to what you've done before and where you're going? HZ: For me it's about creating a design language that consistently continues to empower confidence in femininity, and to reinforce the strength of quiet elegance. For Resort 2026, I wanted to make the identity and portrait of our woman more vivid and assertive, and how she dresses and what she wears is just a natural extension of her character. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: What's one detail in this collection that people might miss but that means a lot to you? HZ: The fabrication in all the tailoring pieces in this collection has elasticity in them, which you will not be aware of from just the images. Although the cuts are structured and tailored in its silhouette, the stretch in the fabric allows for movement and comfort. It's important for me that the woman wearing my collections feels confident and can approach her every day with ease. The feeling of restraint and restriction in clothing kills one's confidence completely. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang FC: What's one rule of elegant dressing that always guides your approach? HZ: The one rule to elegant dressing is that it needs to feel natural and not imposed. For me, true elegance comes from within, and the clothing and how your dress should just effortlessly compliment that. Huishan Zhang Resort '26 collection Huishan Zhang See more on
Vogue
07-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Vogue
Max Mara Atelier Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
Laura Lusuardi, Max Mara's Fashion Coordinator, has been at the company for just over 60 years, and during that time I'd wager she's forgotten more about the business of beautiful clothing than most of us will ever learn. Since 2009 she has overseen Atelier, a hyper-rarified Max Mara capsule that exists outside the central MaxMara remit, first established by founder Achille Maramotti, to create luxurious womenswear on an industrial scale with a hand-tailored quality. While very much about handicraft, Atelier is not about scale: instead it is a forum for Lusuardi and her team to R&D experimental forms of the garment that has defined Max Mara since day one, the coat. This season, the collection was presented adjacent to Max Mara mainline's Naples-based resort show by Ian Griffiths. This seemed a pragmatic way to put these made-to-order samples in the line of sight of some of the house's core clients. Lusuardi greeted us next to a moodboard inhabited by photographs of Diana Vreeland, Maria Callas, and Jackie Kennedy, who the designer all identified as 'radical women.' Kennedy was photographed wearing a swim-cap while vacationing in Capri, and the set-up of the coated mannequins reflected that: each one wore ornately modern-looking (yet vintage), gorgeous mid-century swim-caps. The range of garments beneath them suggested that 'radical' was in this instance meant as a synonym of 'individualistic': the collection broadly saw classical couture shapes from the 1950s and 1960s, as well as 1980s silhouettes, processed through a lushly minimalist filter, and then—quite surprisingly—seasoned with a soupcon of grunginess that was telegraphed by a Kurt Cobain cameo. Fabrics included double-faced cashmere, boiled and treated wool, zibeline-effect cashmere and delicately weathered leather. My absolute favorite was an oversized knee-length coat in a green-touched wool cashmere mix (I think) whose structural seaming and cinches were drawn from a type 3 denim jacket. An oversized hoodie-coat in washed cashmere had that zibeline-shagginess to the touch yet retained much more defined lines than its jersey prototype. A long black coat was patterned in a gold check jacquard to reflect the design of Cobain's shirt and inject a spirit of nonconformism into this rarified worn milieu. A paneled piped and dyed shearling jacket and a slouchy short leather jacket were both minor masterpieces. Said Lusuardi: 'These coats are not for wearing to church. They are for wearing every day, with your own style, customized and personal.'
Daily Mail
24-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mail
At least another person approves! Granddaughter of famous Vogue Editor praises Bianca Censori for stepping out in public in a wild edible lingerie
It seems that Kanye West is not the only person enamoured with his Australian wife Bianca Censori's fondness for racy attire. Bianca turned heads over the weekend when she stepped out with West in Brooklyn, wearing an edible candy bikini. The racy 'swimwear' struck a chord with singer and model Caroline Vreeland. Caroline is the great-granddaughter of the iconic Diana Vreeland, who was the editor-in-chief of Vogue from 1963 until 1971, after 26 years at Harper's Bazaar. The singer and model, 37, took to her Instagram Stories this week to reveal that she was following in Bianca's footsteps. From A-list scandals and red carpet mishaps to exclusive pictures and viral moments, subscribe to the DailyMail's new showbiz newsletter to stay in the loop. Caroline shared a screenshot of a checkout page that showed a candy bra very similar to the one worn by the buxom brunette days earlier. 'Influenced!!!' Caroline captioned the image. Caroline, who released her debut album Notes on Sex and Wine in 2020, appeared on American Idol in 2013. But her time on the show was short-lived, with her being axed after it was revealed she had previously shot a reality show pilot produced by Idol host, Ryan Seacrest. Since then, she has consistently released music, starred in modelling campaigns for brands such as Steve Madden, and become an Instagram influencer, boasting 485,000 followers. It comes after Kanye and Bianca were spotted in Brooklyn this week with the rapper's wife wearing a very sweet outfit. Not one to hide her buxom form, this time around Bianca was wearing a bikini made entirely of candy. The 24-time Grammy winner and his spouse were seen holding hands on the summer day in the Big Apple, with Bianca's jet-black locks cut into bangs. Her two-piece was made of hundreds of pieces of sugary candies that ranged in colour from blue to white to green to yellow. She took to her Instagram Stories this week to reveal that she was following in Censori's footsteps Kanye, meanwhile, wore an ash-grey hoodie with black athletic pants, brown boots and black sunglasses. The eye-catching outing caught the attention of fellow rapper 50 Cent, who posted a pic of Bianca in the racy candy ensemble. 'Look at ye dirty little wife walking around the city naked,' the In Da Club rapper, 49, captioned the post. 'LOL is she gonna be a victim later?' Referring to past whispers that Bianca follows orders Kanye gives her, 50 Cent said, 'This looks like free will to me.' The Candy shop rapper wrapped up by saying, 'Anyway it was really hot today.' In a subsequent post, 50 Cent said he wasn't comfortable with the timing of the Bianca post, and pulled it down as such. 'I took the last post down I didn't realise it was Sunday,' he added. Since their secret 2022 wedding, Bianca has made a habit of turning heads with the barely-there outfits her husband styles her in. This latest near-naked moment only adds to a long list of viral looks, with her most unforgettable being that sheer, nothing-to-the-imagination dress at the 2025 Grammys. She's also sparked controversy abroad — notably during her scandalous, skin-baring strolls in Spain, where she even faced calls to be arrested for public indecency. Kanye was also recently slammed for dressing his Australian wife Bianca exactly like his ex Kim Kardashian. Earlier this month, she put on a very daring display as she stepped out in a plunging nude leotard. Looking very much like Kim Kardashian's doppelganger, Bianca also wore voluminous black hair extensions, further prompting comparisons to the reality star queen. It was not lost on fans, with many pointing out the similarities between the pair. Many also took aim at Kanye, claiming he was behind the decision for her to channel his ex-wife. 'I see Kanye had her dress just like Kim all the way down to the Kim wig,' one fan commented on Daily Mail's article on the risqué exhibition. Another suggested that Bianca's frequent racy displays were the result of 'low self-esteem'. 'Bianca either has really low self esteem and she doesn't think she deserves better than being bossed around by her husband or she likes being told what to do and the attention she gets. She is unstable like her husband,' they suggested. A third chimed in with a similar comment: 'He probably makes her wear a cardboard mask with Kim's face on it, looks like she's gone and got hair extensions to match too.' Since their secret 2022 wedding, Bianca has made a habit of turning heads with the barely-there outfits her husband styles her in.
Daily Mirror
17-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Daily Mirror
Scandalous debut to summer staple: The evolution of the bikini as it turns 75
The bikini has been making waves as a summer essential since it was created in the 1940s. As we dust off our swimwear once again, here's a look back at the evolution of the iconic two-piece The iconic bikini, a staple of summer fashion since the 1940s, is nearly 80 years old and still turning heads. Diana Vreeland, the legendary fashion editor at Harpers Bazaar and Vogue, once famously remarked that the bikini was "the most important thing since the discovery of the atomic bomb." Indeed, Vreeland's observation holds true as the two-piece continues to captivate with its enduring allure and provocative charm. This tiny garment has made an unprecedented impact on fashion history. Tracing back to the mid-19th century, swimsuits have adorned the figures of those frequenting the beaches of Normandy and Biarritz. However, it was in the summer of 1946 that swimwear experienced a revolutionary change. Inspired by the first American nuclear test at Bikini Atoll, French engineer and textile manufacturer Louis Réard unleashed a sartorial sensation upon post-war France: the bikini. Réard, while soaking up the sun in Saint-Tropez, noticed women rolling down their swimsuits for a fuller tan, which led him to design a swimsuit that left the midriff entirely exposed. The so-called "world's smallest swimsuit" made from mere scraps of fabric and adorned with Bernardini's fan mail excerpts, scandalously revealed her navel – a body part deemed too intimate for the public eye at the time. Brigitte Bardot became an early advocate when she famously donned a simple floral bikini on Cannes' beaches in 1953. At just 18, Bardot's bold choice helped cement the bikini as an emblem of youthful rebellion and the burgeoning consumer culture of her era. By the 1960s, bikinis continued to ride a wave of popularity, even as some European beaches still banned them. Hollywood played a pivotal role in the bikini's enduring appeal. The James Bond flick Dr. No featured Ursula Andress emerging from the ocean in a now-iconic white belted bikini, a scene that caused quite the splash. Channel 4 hailed this moment as the ultimate bikini scene in cinematic history, and in 2001, the bikini fetched £46,070 ($61,500) at auction, with film writer Martin Rubin calling it a "defining moment in the Sixties liberalisation of screen eroticism". In the same year, actress Sue Lyon was seen lounging on the grass in a floral bikini in Lolita, while Raquel Welch donned a fur two-piece in One Million Years B.C. (1966). These iconic film scenes played a significant role in popularising the bikini worldwide. However, it wasn't until 1968 that the bikini really took off in France, as social rebellion and the rise of feminism began to redefine women's fashion and its symbolism. 1980s By the 1980s, bikinis accounted for 20% of swimsuit sales in the US, outperforming all other swimwear styles. However, with growing awareness of skin cancer, the popularity of the skimpy bikini plummeted. Suddenly, high-rise one-pieces were all the rage. Alongside one-pieces, variations of the bikini like the 'tankini' and 'camikini', featuring long tops that covered the midriff and ended at the hip bones, gained popularity. Swimwear icons such as Baywatch's Pamela Anderson and Sports Illustrated model Cindy Crawford were often seen in plunging one-pieces and high-waisted bottoms. 1990s As the Eighties athleisure trend began to favour simpler aesthetics, the bikini made a triumphant return. Luxury brands started transforming the two-piece swimsuit into high-glamour fashion statements. In 1996, Chanel downsized the bikini and adorned it with its iconic logo, showcasing it on the runway modelled by supermodel Stella Tennant. The following year, Tom Ford at Gucci pushed the boundaries further with an almost invisible ombré thong bikini embellished with a bold metal G – designed for all genders and intended to be noticed. 2000s – 2010s Today, the bikini continues to be a contentious item of clothing, often finding itself under censorship. In 2013, an advert featuring Pamela Anderson dancing in a bikini was banned by the British Advertising Standards Authority for degrading women. That same year, Cambridge University prohibited the Wyverns Club of Magdalene College from organising its annual bikini jelly wrestling contest. However, as designers become more inclusive and innovative with their designs, it appears that the bikini has entered its golden age. A symbol of liberation and freedom, the bikini remains one of the most popular sectors of the fashion industry, being valued at around $811 million. Regardless of its future transformations, one thing is certain: the bikini is here to stay.
BreakingNews.ie
15-05-2025
- Entertainment
- BreakingNews.ie
The evolution of the bikini
Created almost 80 years ago, the bikini has been making waves as a summer essential since the 1940s. The late fashion editor Diana Vreeland called the bikini 'the most important thing since the discovery of the atomic bomb.' Vreeland isn't wrong, the two-piece swimsuit has lost none of its charm or scandalous appeal over the years. Advertisement Never before in the history of fashion has a little piece of fabric caused such a stir. So, as we dust of our swimwear once again, here's a look back at the evolution of the bikini. Models competing for the Miss World 1960 title in London (PA Archive) The origin of the bikini Ever since the mid-19th century, swimsuits have been gracing the waters of Normandy and Biarritz by the sea-bathing elite. But in the summer of 1946, a seismic shift in swimwear took place. Taking inspiration from the first American nuclear test at Bikini Atoll in the Pacific, French engineer-turned-textile-manufacturer Louis Réard dropped a fashion bomb on post-war France: the bikini. The original design of Louis Réard's bikini in 1946 (Alamy/PA) While visiting the beaches of Saint-Tropez, Réard observed women folding down their swimsuits to get a better tan – this sparked his idea to create a swimsuit that left the midriff completely bare. Advertisement The daringly minimalist design made its debut at Paris's Molitor pool, modelled by Micheline Bernardini, a nude dancer from the Casino de Paris and the only woman willing to wear such a revealing piece. Comprising of just a few scraps of fabric printed with excerpts from Bernardini's fan mail, the so-called 'world's smallest swimsuit' showed off her curves and – most shockingly – her navel. At the time, this part of the body was considered far too intimate for public display. The navel, tied symbolically to motherhood, was still seen as something that belonged to the private sphere. Brigitte Bardot wearing a bikini on the set of The Night Heaven Fell (Alamy/PA) Packaged in a tiny metal cube, just 6cm wide, and marketed as 'the first anatomical bomb,' the bikini was set to challenge post-war modesty. Among its early champions was Brigitte Bardot, who made headlines in 1953 when she wore a a simple floral bikini on the beaches of Cannes. Advertisement The 18-year-old actor's youthful defiance helped turn the bikini into a symbol of a generation embracing freedom, pleasure and a rapidly changing consumer culture. 1960s Come the 1960s, bikinis were still enjoying a surge in popularity, despite still being forbidden on some European beaches. This was largely down to Hollywood. In the James Bond film Dr. No (1962), Ursula Andress stepped out of the sea wearing an iconic white belted bikini, and the moment certainly made waves. Channel 4 declared it to be the top bikini moment in film history, and in 2001, the bikini sold at auction for $61,500, being described by film writer Martin Rubin as a 'defining moment in the Sixties liberalisation of screen eroticism'. Advertisement Ursula Andress wore an iconic white belted bikini in the film Dr. No in 1962 (Alamy/PA) That same year, actor Sue Lyon lounged on the grass in a floral two-piece in Lolita, while Raquel Welch went primal in a fur bikini in One Million Years B.C. (1966). These unforgettable cinematic moments played a major role in popularising the bikini across the globe. In France however, the bikini didn't fully catch up until 1968, when social rebellion and the rise of feminism helped rewrite the rules of how women dressed and what it signified. The bikini became ubiquitous in the late 1960s (PA Archive) No longer just a skimpy beach outfit, the bikini became a subtle act of defiance: a way for women to reclaim ownership of their bodies, ditch the outdated constraints of modesty, and move freely – whether swimming, sunbathing, or simply being. What was once scandalous had evolved into a symbol of liberation. Advertisement 1980s By the 1980s, the bikini made up 20% of swimsuit sales, more than any other swimwear model in the US. However, as skin cancer awareness grew, sales of the skimpy bikini decreased dramatically. Suddenly, it was all about the high-rise one pieces. As athletic styles boomed – one-pieces came into vogue (PA Archive) Alongside one pieces, variations of the bikini became popular such as the 'tankini' and 'camikini' which featured long tops covering the midriff and finishing at the hip bones. Pamela Anderson and Yasmine Bleeth popularised the high-rise one piece in Baywatch (Alamy/PA) The likes of Baywatch's Pamela Anderson and Sports Illustrated model Cindy Crawford became swimwear icons, wearing plunging one-pieces and high-rise bottoms. 1990s As simpler aesthetics began to define fashion and one-pieces became synonymous with Eighties athleisure – the bikini came back with a boom. In the 1990s, ultra-stylised bikinis became popular, moving away from 1980s athleisure (Stefan Rousseau/PA) This time, luxury labels began transforming the two-piece swimsuit into high-glamour statements. In 1996, Chanel shrank it down and stamped it with its signature logo, and paraded it down the runway on supermodel Stella Tennant. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Garment Modern+Vintage (@garment_modern) The following year, Tom Ford at Gucci took things even further with a barely-there ombré thong bikini adorned with a bold metal G – designed for all genders, and made to be seen. 2000s – present day Today, the bikini remains a controversial piece of clothing, still finding itself under censorship. In 2013, an advert featuring Pamela Anderson dancing in a bikini was banned by the British Advertising Standards Authority for degrading women. In that same year, Cambridge University banned the Wyverns Club of Magdalene College from arranging its annual bikini jelly wrestling contest. Modern day bikini designs have become more experimental (Myung Jung Kim/PA) But as designers become more inclusive and experimental with their designs – it seems the bikini has stepped into its golden age. A symbol of liberation and freedom – the bikini remains one of the most popular sectors of the fashion industry, being valued at around $811 million. Whatever its next form, one thing is certain: the bikini is here to stay.
