How to spend 48 hours in Tofino, the bohemian bolthole on Vancouver Island
Set on Vancouver Island's wild western shore, Tofino is a town surrounded by windswept beaches and coastal rainforest. It has a hippy air and is home to year-round surfers, Indigenous artists and an increasing number of chefs, drawn to the natural riches of the Pacific coast. Come for ocean waves, stay for the fish tacos and star-spangled evenings. Day 1
8am: Breakfast at the beach
Start the day at Cox Bay, a mile-long stretch of sand just south of Tofino. The Beach Shack Cafe, at Pacific Sands Beach Resort, has hearty 'brekko wraps' (double sausage, bacon, eggs and tater tots) or 'surf bowls' (granola, berries and yoghurt), plus all manner of drinks.
9am: Stretch your legs
Follow part of apsčiik tašii, a 16-mile pathway between Tofino and the neighbouring town of Ucluelet. It leads into Pacific Rim National Park through rainforest and a rich intertidal zone. Look out for megafauna like black bears and grey whales.
12pm: Snack & shop
Ariana's Sandwich Shop in Tofino serves house-made focaccia like the 'Calabrese' (spicy salami). Nearby, in a cedarwood coastal longhouse, Roy Henry Vickers Gallery sells prints and paintings blending traditional Indigenous and contemporary styles.
1pm: Enjoy a seaweed spa
Clayoquot Sound is a 60-mile-wide stretch of water home to Tofino's islands and inlets. Here, Moon Jelly Spa offers six-hour, self-led spa sessions. A 15-minute boat ride from Tofino takes you to a private floating pontoon with a saltwater seaweed hot tub, an ocean-swimming jetty, a freshwater shower and a gazebo with day beds.
7pm: Unwind with cocktails
Back in Tofino, Ombré has a thorough cocktail menu to please even the most ardent devotee — don't miss the Collins, made with a secret Amaro blend. Alternatively, order a glass of Chardonnay from Meyer Family Vineyards in British Columbia's Okanagan Falls.
8pm: Take Shelter
Overlooking the yachts of Tofino Inlet, this buzzy bistro has a briny menu. Chef Matty Kane's handmade fettuccine with fresh mussels and prawns is a perennial favourite. Day 2
8am: Start the day with a Roar
Part of retro, surfer-cool Hotel Zed, Roar cafe serves the likes of locally made Rhino coffee and breakfast poutine (charcoal spuds, cheese curds and scrambled eggs) in a rainforest-shaded terrace garden. Or order a breakfast wrap to go — it's the perfect snack to eat while exploring Tofino Inlet, a sanctuary for birds just a few steps away.
11am: Hit the waves
Billed as the world's largest female-run surf school, Surf Sister began in 1999 with a mission to empower women in surfing. It's since been teaching people of all genders, ages and abilities. Daily, two-hour group lessons at Cox Bay and nearby Chesterman Beach are suitable for competent swimmers aged 12 and over. Private sessions cater to youngsters.
1pm: Snack & shop
Just south east of town, visitors can sample a fish taco or 'super vegan' burrito with tempura yam at Tacofino, Tofino's original food truck, serving hungry surfers since 2009. Next door, Chocolate Tofino has house-made gelato flavours including caramel with Vancouver Island sea salt, while Den Refillery sells eco-friendly candles, and bath and skincare products made with local seaweed, cedar, sage and more.
3pm: Go foraging
Learn to identify edible mushrooms, plants, berries, seaweeds and shellfish as you forage from forest floor to ocean shore around Tofino and Ucluelet. During two-hour guided tours with Brite Collective, you'll pick the likes of goose barnacles, sea asparagus and spruce tips, and get tips on how to eat them.
6pm: Sundowner & dinner
Hit the deck at The Ivanhoe, a waterfront, fine-dining spot at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge, for a sunset cocktail like the van-quadra negroni with West Coast Sheringham Seaside Gin. Inside, picture windows frame the Bedwell River and Clayoquot Sound, and dishes celebrate single ingredients. Try grilled sablefish produced in partnership with the Kyuquot/Cheklesahht First Nation, or slow-cooked Canadian Rangeland bison shoulder.
9pm: Kayak Clayoquot Sound
Paddle under the cover of night into Clayoquot Sound, where low light pollution makes the canopy of stars, meteor showers and bioluminescent plankton shine bright. Want to stay overnight? Paddle West offers multi-day camp-and-kayak tours into the wilds of Clayoquot and Barkley Sounds, with the chance to soak in thermal waters at Hot Springs Cove. Published in the May 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK).
To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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National Geographic
10 hours ago
- National Geographic
Trace the backcountry trails of Banff National Park on horseback
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In the side paddock, a team of mules jostles, their heads low, long ears twitching as they snort and stamp impatiently. The beasts — horse-donkey hybrids — are being loaded up with gear for our expedition into Banff National Park, western Canada, saddle bags of supplies ballooning at their sides. Fuel, food, grain, linen and the inevitable bottle of whisky: it's a packing list untouched by time. As the string of mules ambles past in a tethered line, hooves kicking up lazy clouds of dust, it feels like a scene from a Wild West flick, shot in glorious Technicolor against the swaggering backdrop of the Canadian Rockies. But a sidelong glance at the stable yard spins a different yarn, as the present-day wranglers grafting away look remarkably different to Alberta's early pioneers. Striding towards me is Erica Woolsey, mule packer and no-nonsense guide for Banff Trail Riders. A ten-gallon hat veils her eyes from the rising sun, and scuffed cowboy boots peek out from beneath dirt-stiffened jeans that look like they could stand upright on their own — the perfect uniform for someone who spends more time on the trail than off it. 'Guiding in the backcountry has traditionally been a male-dominated world,' Erica says as she eyes a pen of preening horses she's been tasked with prepping for the journey ahead. 'When I started out, I was the only female leading the longer, tougher rides,' she recalls. Fast-forward 14 years, and that trend has bucked. 'Today, women make up around 80% of the 100-strong team here,' Erica explains. She gestures towards the yard, where her crew is toiling away, some crouched under horses that outweigh them fivefold, hammering metal shoes onto hooves. 'Guiding in the backcountry has traditionally been a male-dominated world. Today, women make up around 80% of the 100-strong team here," says Erica. Photograph by Victoria Wright It's all in a day's work for backcountry guides, who take riders on multi-day expeditions into the far-flung reaches of Banff National Park in southwestern Alberta. Established in 1885, Canada's oldest national park attracts over four million visitors annually, drawn here to hike, bike, canoe, camp and ride horses in the wilderness. Hungry for a taste of its frontier culture, I've travelled 110 miles west of Calgary to Banff Trail Riders, a family-owned outfitter on the outskirts of the resort town of Banff that's been giddying-up since 1962. Its three-day trek dangles a tantalising carrot: the chance to discover soaring mountain peaks, emerald glacial lakes and pockets of alpine forest most easily accessed by steed. Adding to the spirit of adventure is the prospect of bedding down at Sundance Lodge, a rustic 10-room log cabin set within the national park. It requires a full day of riding to reach, but the payoff promises to be immense. Our route will follow storied pathways, Erica tells me, ducking under a wooden fence and leading me into the sun-baked corral. 'Over the years, these trails have been used by fur trappers led by Indigenous guides, to scout a route for the Canadian Pacific Railway, and by tourists after the discovery of thermal hot springs here in 1883.' In the Canadian Rockies, names such as 'Wild' Bill Peyto and Tom Wilson — rugged, macho types who helped city slickers navigate the hills and hollers of Banff National Park towards the end of the 19th century — are still spoken about with a reverence more commonly reserved for Hollywood stars. No one's shouted about it but women have always played a crucial role in backcountry life, too, although their contribution was traditionally confined to the kitchen and often went unseen. Established in 1885, Banff National Park in southwest Alberta is Canada's oldest national park. Photograph by Victoria Wright "These are ancient trails and we're trying to keep some of those old traditions alive," says Lola Jung, cowgirl. Photograph by Victoria Wright But the winds of change are blowing. Recent years have seen The West two-stepping into the mainstream, thanks to the popularity of onscreen dramas such as Yellowstone, fashion houses including Louis Vuitton and Prada tapping into rodeo-ready looks, and Beyoncé's country-inspired Cowboy Carter album making cowgirling cool. 'This lifestyle has definitely gained widespread appeal and things have swung the other way in terms of gender,' Erica explains. It's an Old West plotline where the once bit-player cowgirls have suddenly stepped into the starring roles. I hoist myself into the creaking saddle of a chestnut horse, given the satisfyingly Americana name of Montana. Following a quick lesson on riding posture from ranch owner Julie Canning — 'shoulders back like a beauty queen, hips thrust forward like a whore' is a nugget of advice I won't forget anytime soon — I leave Erica to her work and head out into the foothills. Into the wild A couple of hours into the trek, the low moan of trucks blowing past on the highway is replaced by the cheerful drum roll of a woodpecker hiding up a skinny pine tree. Shortly after that, my phone signal evaporates. It feels like we're riding back through time, I call out to Lola Jung, a fresh-faced cowgirl leading our group of riders. She swings around in her saddle to chat. 'These are ancient trails and we're trying to keep some of those old-time traditions alive,' she says as the tasselled fringe of her tan leather chaps, embossed with spiked maple leaves, ripples in the breeze. While Lola looks every inch the cowgirl — a white Stetson hat perched upon her head, silky kerchief knotted just-so at her neck, and hair braided into a sleek plait worthy of a show pony — her buckarette journey hasn't been a typical one. 'Just a couple of years ago, I was a nerdy university student sat in a classroom,' she says with some disbelief. Since trading academia for blazing saddles, the self-taught rider has earned her spurs as a backcountry guide, she reveals, as we clip-clop through a dense mess of woodland ferns. There was the time when a towering grizzly bear, ominously nicknamed The Boss, stalked her group of horse riders through Banff National Park for a nail-biting two-and-a-half hours, before Lola steered them to safety. She's also mastered the art of saddle and bridle repair. 'When you're out here in the middle of nowhere and something breaks, you just fix it,' she says with a shrug, sounding as tough as the age-worn leather she mends with a needle and thread. This lifestyle has definitely gained wide-spread appeal and things have swung the other way in terms of gender. Photograph by Victoria Wright Having tethered the horses beside a creek, Lola unpacks lunch ingredients from weathered handmade wooden boxes, attached to her trusty sidekick mule via an intricate system of knotted ropes. 'Looking at black-and-white photos from a century ago, this was also how folks back then moved goods around,' she explains, before starting a fire. Our group, including a catalogue-handsome European couple on their honeymoon and some affable US retirees on a big-ticket holiday, tuck into hulking slabs of flame-licked steak, washed down with metallic mugs of cowboy coffee that's as gritty as the nearby riverbed. We're soon back in the saddle and forging onwards towards Sundance Lodge. 'Technically, you could walk these trails on foot, but the beauty of riding them is that the horse has such stamina,' Lola says, patting the neck of hers approvingly. 'Humans stop for blisters, but these guys just keep on going.' Even astride a five-foot-high horse, this is the kind of scenery to make you feel as miniscule as an ant: gargantuan mountains, formed between 80 and 55 million years ago, rear up on either side. 'What I love about riding out here in the backcountry is that the landscape is forever changing,' Lola enthuses as we slink through a wildflower meadow, the mid-afternoon humidity now at lens-fogging levels. 'We have all seasons in a single day, so things are constantly evolving. I've had snow, hail, rain and sunshine all within the span of a couple of hours.' Meanwhile back at the ranch Before dusk, we arrive at Sundance Lodge, a homely timber property set against a thick spruce forest that seems lifted from a vintage Christmas card. It was originally built in 1991 in the shadow of Ten-Mile Cabin, a rest shelter dating back to 1923 that was once a popular stop for riders heading to Mount Assiniboine, a pyramidal peak straddling the border between the provinces of Alberta and British Columbia. Our home for the next few days is a modern take on the early pioneer homesteads that once dotted this region — although rather more luxurious than its predecessors. Inside, a herd of taxidermy stags with crowning antlers peers down from the walls, while woollen Aztec blankets are slung across beds in the guest rooms. The only neighbours for miles around, it would seem, are furry marmots. From the lodge's wraparound porch, the giant rodents are easy enough to spot on the grassy lawn, standing upright on their hind legs and sniffing the air like fat meerkats. Weary-limbed from a day in the saddle, we return to the lodge with the gait of John Wayne staggering through the swinging doors of a saloon. Photograph by Victoria Wright 'Over the years, these trails have been used by fur trappers led by Indigenous guides, to scout a route for the Canadian Pacific Railway, and by tourists after the discovery of thermal hot springs here in 1883,' explains Erica Photograph by Victoria Wright The following dawn, after a deep slumber, cocooned in our off-grid outpost, we swing back into the saddle, heading out for a full day of trekking. Our lasso-shaped route snakes along the Brewster Creek Trail, named after the Brewster brothers, a couple of pioneering explorers who helped kick-start tourism in the Canadian Rockies at the end of the 19th century by guiding visitors through the area. Just shy of 14 miles out-and-back, the ride is more marathon than sprint, but rewards with blockbuster views of the jagged Sundance Range of mountains. Although the pace is restrained to a gentle walk, the terrain gets rough-and-tumble at points — we slosh through boulder-strewn streams and oozing mud paths one minute, teeter on the edge of a sheer cliff edge the next. But the horses know their steps better than a troupe of veteran ballroom dancers, I reason, and slacken the reins, trusting Montana to take the lead. Weary-limbed from a day in the saddle, we return to the lodge with the gait of John Wayne staggering through the swinging doors of a saloon, to find a hearty hotpot simmering on the stove. A s'mores dessert, baked to a calorific goo in a heavy cast-iron skillet dangling from the kitchen's hooks, cools on the sideboard. Having turned the horses loose, we take our seats around a long communal table for the well-deserved feast. With our hair still faintly smelling of barn animals, conversation swiftly turns to our horses' idiosyncrasies; we sound like proud parents at a school PTA meeting. After dinner, I join Lola beside the campfire, the fiery light coppering her hair and throwing fleeting shadows across her face. Women explorers have been out here for years, she's quick to highlight, as we cradle mugs of cocoa in our hands. Over a century prior to #womenwhohike trending online, US-Canadian naturalist and photographer Mary Schäffer Warren was exploring this park and turning her camera's lens to its rugged mountains. By 1931, New York mountaineer Georgia Engelhard had conquered Mount Victoria — on the border of Alberta and British Columbia — an impressive nine times; a particularly challenging climb, it can present steep snow and ice conditions. During this period, Lola tells me, an artist and extreme peak-seeker called Catharine Robb Whyte could also be found 'hiking out here while wearing her husband's trousers'. An owl concealed in the inky woodland responds to the revelation with an echoing hoot. Having traded the confines of a skirt for the freedom of a pair of slacks, Catharine ruffled a few feathers. 'It was taboo, as people thought that the dangers of mountain climbing were just for men,' Lola says. 'But she had the last laugh, becoming quite wealthy, and there's now a museum named after Catharine and her husband in Banff.' The horse-donkey hybrids are being loaded up with gear for our expedition into Banff National Park. Fuel, food, grain, linen and the inevitable bottle of whisky: it's a packing list untouched by time. Photograph by Victoria Wright With no connection to the outside world, life at Sundance has found its own deliciously languid rhythm (ride, relax, repeat) but it's soon time to head back. Towards the end of the 10-mile return trek, with the lodge a hazy memory behind us and the town of Banff appearing on the horizon, Lola suddenly breaks into song. 'I don't wanna ride side saddle, I just wanna ride bow-legged, bow-legged like the boys.' We ride back into the stables, a posse of cowgirls awaiting our return. Moving mountains The following morning, back on terra firma, I make the short drive south east from Banff to Canmore. Situated in the Bow Valley, the former coal mining town rose from its sooty ashes when it played host to the Nordic events at the 1988 Winter Olympics. These days, it appeals as a quieter alternative to popular downtown Banff, while still offering easy access to the great outdoors and cafes serving up a half-decent frothy coffee. On the outskirts of town, crunching to a standstill in the parking lot of the Grassi Lakes Trail, I find fiftysomething guide Heather Black. She leans against the boot of her car, buckling on a backpack, with a camera on a selfie stick strapped across her chest. Early settlers poured into the Canadian West in serious numbers from the 1860s onwards, an immigration boom prompted by mining, oil and agriculture, but Alberta was by no means uninhabited territory prior to this. To learn more of its rich Indigenous history, I'm joining Heather, founder of hiking company Buffalo Stone Woman, on a trek. We'll be hiking the popular Grassi Lakes Trail, a 2.5-mile jaunt that's part of a network of 48 trails in the Canmore area. Heather, a former female boxing champ, is part of the Blackfoot Confederacy, a people who ranged across the Great Plains of western North America. Our tour this morning is part of broader reclamation of her culture, Heather tells me, as we stride towards the leafy trailhead. 'My ancestors were here around 10,000 years ago, using these mountains as medicine,' she explains, as we enter the sun-dappled woodland. 'While the men were hunting, it was groups of women who'd be out here harvesting plants.' Heather points out a cluster of purple juniper berries sprouting nearby, traditionally dried and consumed as a tea to help ease respiratory problems. 'If you were troubled, an elder would advise you to come to the Rockies,' Heather continues, the earthy scent of moss rising up from the spongy forest floor. 'Our people would fast here, sometimes for four days on end, in order to have a vision.' The mountains are still sacred, used by the Blackfoot people for ceremonial purposes to this day. Heather, a former female boxing champ, is part of the Blackfoot Confederacy, a people who ranged across the Great Plains of western North America. Photograph by Victoria Wright 'My ancestors were here around 10,000 years ago, using these mountains as medicine,' Heather explains. Photograph by Victoria Wright Following the signing of Treaty 7 in 1877, which ceded First Nations hunting territory to the Canadian government, the Indigenous people were forced to move onto reserves. 'It was forbidden for my people to come out here, separating us from our land and culture,' Heather says. The 30-year exclusion period ended in the 1920s but it cast a long shadow, and her parents would avoid bringing her to the Rockies as a child. Heather grew up 190 miles south east of where we're standing; her journey back to the range began 10 years ago, following a family loss. 'I came here to call upon the mountain spirits for strength,' the Calgary-based guide recalls. Noticing an absence of Indigenous people on the trails, she was inspired to start her own hiking company. 'Go big or go home': that was her mantra in the early days. 'You see that mountain over there?' she asks. I follow her finger to a peak so mind-bogglingly high that it blocks out the sun. 'That was the first mountain I summited. I was dressed in entirely the wrong kit,' she says, laughing, 'but I still remember sitting up there and looking down with such a sense of achievement.' We climb higher, until the terrain starts to plateau, revealing a mirrored lake the colour of jade. Glacial silt particles reflecting in the sunlight — the scientific explanation for the hue of Alberta's bodies of water — have never looked so beautiful. I take a moment to drink in the scene and reflect on the people who have tended to this land, from matriarchs harvesting medicinal plants to hard-scrabble cowgirls working on the ranches. There's nothing that new about the women of the Rockies taking the reins, I realise. It's just that now, thanks to guides like Lola and Heather, we're also invited along for the ride. Getting there & around: Air Canada and Air Transat offer direct flights to Calgary from London. Air Transat also offers direct flights from Manchester and flight time: 9h. Car rental companies operate out of Calgary Airport. FlixBus, Banff Airporter and Discover Banff Tours run frequent daily shuttles between Calgary International Airport and Banff. When to go: Summer sees long sunny days and average temperatures of 22C. June is the busiest time to visit Alberta's Rockies so book accommodation and activities well in advance. Spring is a good time for wildlife spotting, with bears waking from hibernation. Autumn offers glorious leaf-peeping opportunities but some operators may wind down their activities as the weather turns, with an average temperature of 5C in October. Where to stay: Fairmont Palliser, Calgary. From C$328 (£176). Hotel Canoe & Suites, Banff. From C$249 (£134). The Malcolm Hotel, Canmore. From C$320 (£172). More info: How to do it: Banff Trail Riders runs horse-trekking trips between May and October. It has two nights at Sundance Lodge, including all meals, horse-riding and trail fees from C$1,699 (£945). Canada As You Like It has a seven-night Alberta fly-drive from £1,455 per person, including return flights to Calgary, car hire, one night in Calgary, three nights in Banff and three nights in Jasper. This story was created with the support of Travel Alberta Published in the July/August 2025 issue of National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
Hamilton Spectator
12 hours ago
- Hamilton Spectator
Experience Indigenous culture at this 2-day festival in Ontario — Here's how to get tickets and score a free spot on a powwow bus tour
Get a chance to experience Indigenous cultural heritage by watching Indigenous artists, joining a powwow bus tour, discovering First Nation crafts and trying Indigenous cuisine during a two-day cultural event in Windsor-Essex. Caldwell First Nation will be holding its first Competition Powwow from Aug. 9 to 10 at Caldwell First Nation Reserve, located along Mersea Road 1, in Leamington, Ontario. The two-day cultural event will highlight Indigenous dancers, singers, drummers, cuisine and crafts from across Canada and the U.S. 'The powwow allows us to join with other First Nations from across Canada and the United States to share in this great gathering and exciting cultural experience,' the organizers said on the event's page. 'This is more than just a celebration — it's a high-energy, competitive powwow featuring some of the finest dancers and singers in North America.' Over $50,000 in prizes will be given to the best artists who will compete in different categories. There will be plenty of on-site food vendors offering Indigenous cuisines and local favourites as well as local artisans and craft vendors who will offer handmade jewelry and crafts, the organizers shared in a post announcing the event. Tickets to the event are $10 per person. It's free for children under eight years old and people over 60. Caldwell First Nation along with the Windsor Port Authority and Tourism Windsor Essex Pelee Island, will be offering 105 people a free bus tour on the first and second day of the event. 'The tour route will take riders along the Windsor-Essex Shoreline to highlight many hidden and ancient Indigenous sites en route to the Caldwell First Nation Reserve in Leamington,' the organizers shared in a release announcing the tour. The region's shoreline along the Detroit River and Lake Erie is home to many historically significant Indigenous sites. Before European settlers arrived in the region, the land along the Detroit River was known as Wawiiatanong and was home to Haudenosaunee, Attawandaron (Neutral), and Huron (Wyandot) peoples, according to information from the City of Windsor. The tour route will take riders along the Windsor-Essex Shoreline to highlight many hidden and ancient indigenous sites. The tour will pick up passengers from Destination Ontario — Ontario Travel Information Services at 110 Park St. E. in Windsor. The tour will explore Indigenous sites, before heading to Caldwell First Nation Reserve in Leamington for the event. Reservations for the bus tour will be open soon and guests can book a slot on their site . There's free parking on-site for those who bring their own car and won't join the bus tour. Powwow bus tour schedule. The Caldwell First Nation also known as the Chippewas of Point Pelee and Pelee Island is part of the Anishinaabe people and a proud member of the Three Fires Confederacy — Potawatomi, Odawa, and Ojibwa, according to information on the Caldwell Powwow site. The CFN has lived on the lands surrounding Point Pelee in Windsor-Essex way before the European settlers arrived. The CFN fought as allies of the British during the war of 1812 and were promised land in return. 'Despite their service, they were forcibly removed from their traditional lands in the 1920s and spent decades without a recognized land base.' The Nation's long-standing land claim was finally settled in 2010 and in November 2020 a 200-acre parcel at Bevel Line Road and Seacliff Drive in Leamington was designated as Reserve Land. After a 230-year long fight the Caldwell First Nation returned home to their ancestral land.
National Geographic
14 hours ago
- National Geographic
Why Alabama's emerging wine country should be your next road trip
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). Given its southerly latitude, it may seem surprising that Alabama is home to a burgeoning wine country. But amid the undulating landscape piercing the state's northern half, you'll find a colourful, characterful wine trail surrounded by some truly beautiful, waterfall-studded scenery. While southern Alabama is as flat as an American pancake, the sylvan foothills of the Appalachian Mountains enter from the northeast of the state and their dense, layered foliage make driving through this corner of 'Dixie' a joy. But don't expect grand, urbane wineries on the scale of Napa or Sonoma. For the most part, Alabama's handful of vineyards are helmed by delightfully small mom-and-pop operations offering warm, avuncular welcomes alongside sweeter-tasting wines — often based around the native Muscadine grape — that satiates locals' famous sweet tooth. A road trip through the region's vineyards is a relaxing way to discover one of America's lesser-known states, while enjoying the Southern sun and making new friends over a glass or two. Hit the road The Saturn V rocket pointing toward the sky from Huntsville's US Space & Rocket Center is visible for miles and perhaps acts as a metaphor for the city's recent rise. Huntsville's handsome and compact downtown is perfect for a stroll, especially Clinton Ave's kooky stores and jaunty street art, while Baker & Able's laid-back rooftop bar above the 106 Jefferson Hotel has fine views of the Appalachians' Cumberland Plateau. Baker & Able's laid-back rooftop bar above the 106 Jefferson Hotel in Huntsville has fine views of the Appalachians' Cumberland Plateau. Photograph by VRX Studios Opened in 2022 within the bucolic Bankhead National Forest, Sipsey Vineyard & Winery is the newest winery on the Alabama scene, though for the trail itself it's better to jump on the I-65 south and hit Sipsey's airy new tasting room in the city of Cullman, which opened in March 2025. Wine flights are served on elegant tasting boards made from bourbon whiskey staves. Try its collection of red blends, such as Dei Vinea, alongside quirky cider-based creations that owner Bart Crabtree, a former military veteran and relentless raconteur, will invariably offer you. Around an hour east along the US-278 and AL-79 highways, the Tennessee River opens up and Guntersville's lakeside setting is a wonderfully picturesque spot to hunker down for the night. Stay at the Home2 Suites by Hilton set in the lively City Harbor district, and watch the sun set over the glimmering water with the rolling valleys of Lake Guntersville State Park standing tall behind. The next day, Jules J Berta Vineyards is just a short drive down the US-431 and its wine slushies (yes, really) are a perfect tonic if the humid Alabama summer is cranking up. Wills Creek Vineyards & Winery is one of the region's more picturesque vineyards, and at just a 25-minute drive from Jules J Berta along Horton Gap Road, they're ideal for pairing up. Both wineries specialise in Muscadine table wines and taking in the view from Wills Creek's back patio of Duck Springs Valley's rounded hills, glass in hand, is a lovely way to pass an afternoon. Sipsey's airy new tasting room in the city of Cullman has wine flights served on elegant tasting boards made from bourbon whiskey staves. Photograph by Sipsey Vineyard & Winery Gadsden is a good spot to find a hotel and the city's historic downtown has something of the old West about it, with its neat turn-of-the-century buildings lining Broad Street. When evening falls, the roofs are lit up by a bright parade of festoon lights and the art deco Pitman Theatre blinks in glorious neon. Just a 15-minute drive along the 278, Maraella Vineyards & Winery is perhaps most archetypal of Alabama's breezy Southern hospitality. A small rust-red neighbourhood home flanked by narrow vines to one side, Maraella's porch has brick arches that feel almost Mediterranean, and its sofas are a cosy spot to chat with visitors passing through. In fact, gregarious owner Scott Lee will probably join in, over a glass of his Dorato Vino Muscadine white or one of the vineyard's light blueberry wines. Just as inviting, High Country Cellars, as the name suggests is deeper into Appalachia than most. Located at the end of a high gravel drive in dense thickets of woodland that skirt Talladega National Forest, this rustic winery is set in a former house, where the bedrooms have been repurposed into offices and the lounge is now a convivial tasting room. The playfully titled Skeeter P apple peach wine is the bestseller, a sweet, zesty glass of sunshine that's ideal for a warm afternoon in this genial and serene corner of the South. Meet the maker: Jules Berta Jules Berta, Jules J Berta Vineyards: "I was a mechanic by trade, in the Navy for eight years, with three honourable discharges. When I got out of the Navy in 1992, I was broke, divorced and didn't have two nickels to rub together. I came down here [northern Alabama] in 1994 and started messing with the grapes. I bought books and learned all I could. With a little trial and error, here we are. Jules Berta's father — a Hungarian immigrant— brought winemaking knowledge with him to America and started planting vines in northern Alabama in 1987. Photograph by James March The white wines do very well here, but they have to be picked fairly early because they ripen up much faster in the heat. The reds just soak up the sun, they love it. The local Muscadine is a primitive variety. It has a very specific, twangy flavour to it. It'll never be considered a serious table wine, but it's fun. You have to serve it here in the South. Right now, Alabama wine is in its infancy. A couple of years ago, I took a tour up in Virginia. I met a lot of winery owners there and they told me, 'You guys in Alabama are where we were 20 years ago.' They started out with a handful of wineries and now they have over 300." Top three wineries in Alabama 1. Jules J Berta Vineyards While Alabama's wine industry is still very much in its infancy, Jules J Berta's history with the grape runs deep. Berta's distant relatives in Hungary made wine in the hills near Lake Balaton in the 19th century and his father— a Hungarian immigrant— brought that knowledge with him to America and started planting vines in northern Alabama in 1987. Sadly, he passed away before the winery opened in 2008, but his son Jules has turned this pastoral spot near Albertville into one of the state's most successful ventures. As with most of the state's vineyards, there's plenty of the fruit-forward Muscadine grown here, though you'll also find spicy Syrah and Cabernet red blends like the Black Widow and some light, local Sylvaner varieties, too. Wood-fired pizza is served Thursday and Saturday, which makes for a delicious wine pairing. Vines grow behind yellow wildflowers at Jules J Berta Winery near Albertville, Alabama, where the family cultivates Muscadine, Syrah and other varieties. Photograph by Jules Berta 2. Wills Creek Vineyards & Winery Wills Creek co-owner Jahn Coppey calls the Muscadine grape 'his medicine' though the cinematic views from the winery's back terrace could be equally as therapeutic. Duck Springs Valley's rotund hills form a sublime backdrop, with a nearby lake attended to by eagles, ospreys and hawks occasionally diving for bass alongside the faint rumble of Interstate 59 somewhere beyond the horizon. As with Jules J Berta, there's a European connection here, too. Coppey is a native of Switzerland and still has hints of his old Swiss-French accent. His winery grows 10 acres of Muscadine, though there are fruit wines here too, including strawberry, pear, blueberry and peach blends. He also makes a syrupy sweet Muscadine dessert wine. Cheese platters are served to pair with the wine, featuring a variety of local cheeses, asparagus, salami sausage and cashew nuts. 3. Fruithurst Winery Co Just five miles from the Georgia state line, Fruithurst Winery Co sits in rural, church-strewn Cleburne County. Wine has been grown in this area since 1894 and while prohibition shut down that practice, cousins Dylan and Joshua Laminack opened Fruithurst in 2009 and it's since become a regional favourite. The creaking rocking chair outside their wooden building looks out onto quiet backroads with 20 acres of vines just to the right-hand side. It's a serene setting for sipping their intense and sweet Muscadine white Fruithurst Gem, though Dylan and his wife Jessica's affable chatter and tales never let the volume get too low. While there's not much in terms of food served, Fruithurst does host several summer and harvest time festivals with food trucks and live music. To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
