Thevar 2.0 shows off mod-Indian cuisine in a new light
Thevar 16 Mohamed Sultan Road Singapore 238965 Tel: 9750 8275 Open for dinner Tues to Sat: 6 pm to 11 pm; lunch on Sat: 12 pm to 2.30 pm
POOR Grandma Thevar. She got played. While her name may have been invoked when her precocious progeny Mano needed an origin story for his fledgling mod-Indian restaurant back in 2018, he doesn't really need her anymore.
It's not a bad thing. Two Michelin stars and a steady creative evolution later, what comes out of Thevar's kitchen now is his (and his team's) and his alone. Namely, a deliberate, confident, follow-my-own-path playbook that isn't bound by tradition or even authenticity. The spirit of Thevar restaurant may be Indian, but other than that, anything goes. Besides, if Thevar's granny knew he was turning pani puri into carrot-derived candy shells filled with fruity bursts of ginger and tomato, she might have whacked him in the head.
And so it is that we enter Thevar 2.0, which sees the chef Thevar moving into his new digs at Mohamed Sultan with the verve of a guy who finally got his own apartment after having crashed at his friend's place for the past seven years.
After making do – and doing well – at Meta's hand-me-down premises in Keong Saik, you can see Thevar's delight in turning the new place into his personal universe. Cue discreet South Indian design features and tiny artworks, mood-lit dining room, shiny kitchen and even a happy 80s playlist featuring A-ha and Blondie.
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Thevar 2.0 may mark a new chapter, but it is also the completion of its first. Much of the current menu originated in Keong Saik, the weary surroundings of which couldn't do justice to the sophisticated collection of precision bites developed over the years. Now, the decor matches the food, and the whole combination packs a punch.
A trio of snacks to start the meal. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
The menu price is still the same at S$298, and since we haven't been back in a long while, even the old signatures feel fresh. Namely, an opening snack of crispy-melty, deep-fried piece of pork belly, smeared with sambal aioli and wrapped in a betel leaf. It's part of a trio that sets the tone for the meal – inventive, yet familiar.
A chewy idli pancake gets a Nordic twist with dill yoghurt and cured ocean trout; and a miniature chaat explodes in a mix of crunchy shell, tart tamarind, tomberry tomatoes and other little bits and bobs.
Thevar himself isn't there when we visit – he's briefly hospitalised at the time – but the well-oiled team led by head chef Shan delivers without a single hiccup.
Vadai with smoked eel. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
Vadai is pressed into a mahjong tile shape and topped with smoky grilled eel for the token Japanese twist, but still a worthy bite. And then, of course, there's the old favourite of Chettinad chicken roti – pulled chicken curry that's creamy and rich and stuffed into a taco of lightly toasted naan, which holds its shape and texture as you polish it off.
Lobster in ishtu sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
A plump lobster tail has a ceremonial bath in turmeric water before being set in an ishtu sauce – a spiced, creamy coconut gravy with a hint of yuzu and cubes of nashi pear and pumpkin seeds for crunch. Little buns are convenient sponges for the remaining sauce.
Indian abalone porridge. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
Good as it is, it's outshone by an incredibly tender piece of Jeju island abalone that must have been given better massages than a cow in Kobe. Steamed till it gives up all resistance and is left with just enough bite, it's laid over a bed of Indian khichdi made with koshihikari rice that's infused with heady spices. Think Korean abalone porridge with a Bombay accent.
Mysore spiced rack of lamb. PHOTO: THEVAR
The meal is such that you still have room for lamb biryani, a tender Mysore-spiced lamb rack served with three condiments – spicy sorrel chutney, homemade achar and a marsala-scented butternut puree. A dollop of fruity-bitter raita is served separately like a shy neighbour, but this is a party for everyone: Mix everything up with the excellent lamb and the biryani rice on the side. The delicate basmati is mixed with bits of meat, cranberries and nuts, and the only thing wrong about it is the stingy amount.
Pre-dessert of soursop sorbet and rose granita. PHOTO: JAIME, BT
For dessert, a waif of a pastry chef brings out a pre-dessert of soursop sorbet on rose-flavoured granita, which hides little surprises of aloe vera, grapes and mangosteen. It's perfumed, fruity, slightly bitter and is a refreshing prelude to the main dessert.
We're challenged to detect the savoury element in the scoop of kulfi ice cream made with roasted dates and coffee. It turns out to be fried onions, but we just can't tell. No matter. This quirky combination that tastes like banana cake and not-too-sweet ice cream with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese actually works.
Petit fours of financier, mochi and caramel tart. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT
The final sweet ending is worth the wait – a cardamom-spiced financier, fruity cream-filled mochi and a sticky-chewy toffee caramel tart.
So far, so flawless, but herein lies the crux: Technically strong, Thevar 2.0 also feels safe in its comfort zone. As it progresses, it needs to grow, break more barriers and take some risks. Either way, Grandma would be proud.
Rating: 7.5
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