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Business Times
7 days ago
- General
- Business Times
Almost-cheap bistro classics at the Plump Frenchman
NEW RESTAURANT The Plump Frenchman #01-20 Guoco Midtown II 20 Tan Quee Lan Street Singapore 188107 Open for lunch and dinner Mon to Sat: 11:30 am to 2:30 pm; 5:30 pm to 11 pm. Lunch only on Sun: 11 am to 3 pm. SO WE know about not trusting a skinny chef, but it does feel like The Plump Frenchman is unapologetically thumbing its nose at thin Gallic men who can cook rather well. But we also understand that The Plump Frenchman sounds infinitely more appetising than, say, The Ozempic Frenchman or Intermittent Fasting Gent. A name like The Plump Frenchman takes you back to when butter was good and you could be fat and happy without anyone shaming you into a clean eating regimen. French chefs were rotund with twirly moustaches and appeared in cartoon form in Ratatouille. Bistros had red-checkered tablecloths and served French onion soup in tureens, while escargots swam in melted butter like assassins aiming for your arteries. The Plump Frenchman retains some of that retro DNA in its menu, but visually it has all the sterile charm of a tenant in a generic downtown mall. It tries to project intimate neighbourhood appeal, but at best it has chicken rotisserie chain vibes with a wine list and token wicker chairs thrown in. It might feel different at night, but in the blinding noonday heat, the casual eatery is a welcome reprieve for office workers thrilled to find an affordable, sit-down lunch alternative to their daily diet of salad wraps or economy rice. The Plump Frenchman is a Zouk Group initiative helmed by Robuchon alumnus Lorenz Hoja, and it answers the current call for bona fide cooking at an accessible price point. The food is more reliable than fancy, and not everything meets the mark, but you can't quibble with the pricing, and there are some genuine moments of delight. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Already, people have gotten the memo, with online reservations seemingly booked up a good two weeks in advance. Set lunches start at S$25 for a main and dessert, up to S$47 for four courses. Appetisers start at S$13 for anchovy toast, and a whole rotisserie chicken can be had for S$34 – granted, it has no pedigree, but it's still a far cry from the over S$100 you're used to paying for a French breed served in a cocotte with koshihikari rice on the side. Beetroot and feta cheese salad. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Here, the mantra is no fuss, no muss – get fed and leave full. Service is friendly, if sometimes draggy and inexperienced. The S$35 three-course set lunch is your best deal, so long as you're not tempted by fancier proteins like salmon for an extra S$10 or S$15. Hefty chunks of tender beetroot feature in a too-tart salad to start, tossed with feta cheese, pickles and a bit of couscous. But it gets the appetite going. Spicy and smoky mini squids stuffed with chorizo sausage. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT A la carte chipirons (S$16) is a gem – effectively transporting you to a Spanish tapas bar with the paprika-infused smokiness of mini squid stuffed with chorizo and seared in chilli oil till nicely charred. Bouncy, with just enough heat to tickle your nose, this is a clear winner. Piping hot French onion soup. PHOTO: THE PLUMP FRENCHMAN Above shelves of colourful pickles is a blackboard of specials, including French onion soup (S$18). They warn you that it takes half an hour to prepare, so order it the moment you sit down. You understand why because the soup is served really hot. It's so hot you could go home and come back next Tuesday, and it would still be simmering at a lava-like temperature. It's not so much soup as it is a thick onion gravy, a potently rich brew hiding the real prize – a thick slab of toast already soaked and softened, with a heavenly layer of thick, melted cheese that's gooey and crunchy at the same time. Points off, by the way, for the slice of cold, powdery sourdough bread and butter that cost us S$8. Rotisserie chicken is a staple dish on the menu. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT The demi poulet (S$17) or half a rotisserie chicken – a rack of birds slowly turning in their oven is an entertaining sight – is perhaps more appealing to non-Asian palates who fancy well-cooked breast meat. We're on team thigh, especially with the chilli sauce that kicks things up a notch. Ratatouille and soft-cooked eggs. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Meanwhile, our set lunch ratatouille is a hearty if predictable stew of eggplant, onions, tomatoes and red peppers, with two soft-cooked eggs coddled enticingly in the middle. Baked custard clafouti and pot au chocolat. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Desserts are simple pleasures: a tiny pot au chocolate is a dreamy match of intense chocolate cream and a smooth vanilla layer on top; and clafouti (S$11) from the a la carte menu. This long-lost pudding is literally a hot favourite: wobbly baked custard studded with tart cherries and smothered with vanilla cream. Neither a drain on the wallet or intellect, The Plump Frenchman has no ambitions apart from feeding people well. If you ask us, it's a philosophy that's well worth the calories. Rating: 6.5
Business Times
10-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Business Times
Thevar 2.0 shows off mod-Indian cuisine in a new light
NEW RESTAURANT Thevar 16 Mohamed Sultan Road Singapore 238965 Tel: 9750 8275 Open for dinner Tues to Sat: 6 pm to 11 pm; lunch on Sat: 12 pm to 2.30 pm POOR Grandma Thevar. She got played. While her name may have been invoked when her precocious progeny Mano needed an origin story for his fledgling mod-Indian restaurant back in 2018, he doesn't really need her anymore. It's not a bad thing. Two Michelin stars and a steady creative evolution later, what comes out of Thevar's kitchen now is his (and his team's) and his alone. Namely, a deliberate, confident, follow-my-own-path playbook that isn't bound by tradition or even authenticity. The spirit of Thevar restaurant may be Indian, but other than that, anything goes. Besides, if Thevar's granny knew he was turning pani puri into carrot-derived candy shells filled with fruity bursts of ginger and tomato, she might have whacked him in the head. And so it is that we enter Thevar 2.0, which sees the chef Thevar moving into his new digs at Mohamed Sultan with the verve of a guy who finally got his own apartment after having crashed at his friend's place for the past seven years. After making do – and doing well – at Meta's hand-me-down premises in Keong Saik, you can see Thevar's delight in turning the new place into his personal universe. Cue discreet South Indian design features and tiny artworks, mood-lit dining room, shiny kitchen and even a happy 80s playlist featuring A-ha and Blondie. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Thevar 2.0 may mark a new chapter, but it is also the completion of its first. Much of the current menu originated in Keong Saik, the weary surroundings of which couldn't do justice to the sophisticated collection of precision bites developed over the years. Now, the decor matches the food, and the whole combination packs a punch. A trio of snacks to start the meal. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT The menu price is still the same at S$298, and since we haven't been back in a long while, even the old signatures feel fresh. Namely, an opening snack of crispy-melty, deep-fried piece of pork belly, smeared with sambal aioli and wrapped in a betel leaf. It's part of a trio that sets the tone for the meal – inventive, yet familiar. A chewy idli pancake gets a Nordic twist with dill yoghurt and cured ocean trout; and a miniature chaat explodes in a mix of crunchy shell, tart tamarind, tomberry tomatoes and other little bits and bobs. Thevar himself isn't there when we visit – he's briefly hospitalised at the time – but the well-oiled team led by head chef Shan delivers without a single hiccup. Vadai with smoked eel. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Vadai is pressed into a mahjong tile shape and topped with smoky grilled eel for the token Japanese twist, but still a worthy bite. And then, of course, there's the old favourite of Chettinad chicken roti – pulled chicken curry that's creamy and rich and stuffed into a taco of lightly toasted naan, which holds its shape and texture as you polish it off. Lobster in ishtu sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT A plump lobster tail has a ceremonial bath in turmeric water before being set in an ishtu sauce – a spiced, creamy coconut gravy with a hint of yuzu and cubes of nashi pear and pumpkin seeds for crunch. Little buns are convenient sponges for the remaining sauce. Indian abalone porridge. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Good as it is, it's outshone by an incredibly tender piece of Jeju island abalone that must have been given better massages than a cow in Kobe. Steamed till it gives up all resistance and is left with just enough bite, it's laid over a bed of Indian khichdi made with koshihikari rice that's infused with heady spices. Think Korean abalone porridge with a Bombay accent. Mysore spiced rack of lamb. PHOTO: THEVAR The meal is such that you still have room for lamb biryani, a tender Mysore-spiced lamb rack served with three condiments – spicy sorrel chutney, homemade achar and a marsala-scented butternut puree. A dollop of fruity-bitter raita is served separately like a shy neighbour, but this is a party for everyone: Mix everything up with the excellent lamb and the biryani rice on the side. The delicate basmati is mixed with bits of meat, cranberries and nuts, and the only thing wrong about it is the stingy amount. Pre-dessert of soursop sorbet and rose granita. PHOTO: JAIME, BT For dessert, a waif of a pastry chef brings out a pre-dessert of soursop sorbet on rose-flavoured granita, which hides little surprises of aloe vera, grapes and mangosteen. It's perfumed, fruity, slightly bitter and is a refreshing prelude to the main dessert. We're challenged to detect the savoury element in the scoop of kulfi ice cream made with roasted dates and coffee. It turns out to be fried onions, but we just can't tell. No matter. This quirky combination that tastes like banana cake and not-too-sweet ice cream with a sprinkle of Parmesan cheese actually works. Petit fours of financier, mochi and caramel tart. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT The final sweet ending is worth the wait – a cardamom-spiced financier, fruity cream-filled mochi and a sticky-chewy toffee caramel tart. So far, so flawless, but herein lies the crux: Technically strong, Thevar 2.0 also feels safe in its comfort zone. As it progresses, it needs to grow, break more barriers and take some risks. Either way, Grandma would be proud. Rating: 7.5
Business Times
03-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Business Times
Best pizza: PST or Vincenzo Capuano? Showdown between two hot new entrants
NEW RESTAURANTS Pizza Studio Tamaki 38 Tanjong Pagar Road Singapore 088461 Tel: 8072 9512 Open daily for lunch and dinner: 12 pm to 3.30 pm; 5 pm to 11 pm. Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano #01-12 The Pier at Robertson 80 Mohamed Sultan Road Singapore 239013 Tel: 6485 9153 Open daily for lunch and dinner: 12 pm to 3 pm; 6 pm to 11 pm. THE problem with rating pizza is that everyone is an expert. You don't need a degree or practical experience, just a set of teeth in decent working order. And everyone has an opinion on who serves the best pizza in Singapore. If you don't agree, they react like you just insulted their favourite offspring – human or chihuahua. Or worse, they write you off as a plebeian, unable to appreciate the intricacies of triple fermented, 80 per cent hydrated dough and proprietary blends of flour. Honestly, we couldn't give a mozzarella ball if the flour came from wheat hand-grown by biodynamic zealots and harvested when the moon hits their eyes – all we care about is the chew. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up As it happens, two new contenders have entered the already-crowded pizza ring, prepared to go dough-to-dough with each other. Who will win? The lean, light-footed Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) from Tokyo, or the chunkier, Italian street fighter Vincenzo Capuano, who has more brass than class? Pizza Studio Tamaki PST brings with it accolades as one of the top pizza joints in Tokyo and among the hardest to book. It's not so easy getting into its Singapore outpost either. Housed at the former Tippling Club in Tanjong Pagar, its former fine dining aura has since been dialled down to cafe mode. The Japanese aesthetic is unmistakable, with its streamlined looks and hipster vibe. Tables are small but not uncomfortable, and a neat open kitchen is flanked by cans of tomatoes on one end and a large, domed pizza oven on the other. The decor is functional but bright and clean, with its own bathroom – a perk you will appreciate only when you go to Vincenzo Capuano. The lightness of the surroundings extends to the food, designed not to fill you up before the pizza comes. There's some decent variety, although they were running short of Japanese ingredients during our visit, so not everything was available. Also, such is the price of the hype that they tell you off the bat you have to be out of there in one and a half hours, and start bugging you for your last order at the 60-minute mark. PST's broccoli with garlic chips. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Broccoli with Aomori garlic chips (S$16) is a simple but satisfying way to fill your greens quota, with warm florets cooked in oil scented by flakes of crispy Japanese garlic and spiked with chilli. Cold, rubbery octopus and celery (S$18) is overwhelmed by lemony vinaigrette. But they're just a token prelude to the main event – PST's signature Neapolitan pizza, done Tokyo-style. Marinated octopus and celery in lemon vinaigrette. PHOTO: PST That means a thinner, lighter crust that doesn't puff up obscenely around the edges like other inflated versions. This one is more restrained, almost delicate, yet holds the sauce without it seeping through the dough. PST's Tamaki pizza features mozzarella and cherry tomatoes. PHOTO: PST A basic Tamaki (S$29) shows off its attributes without any distraction – just a simple topping of sweet cherry tomatoes, smoked mozzarella and basil. It's so light that it doesn't take much to polish off the entire pizza and order another one. The cheese-based Bismarck (S$32) is covered in melty mozzarella, mushrooms and pork sausage, with a soft runny egg on top sealing the deal. It's richer than the Tamaki, but hits the spot. Bismarck pizza features cheese, pork sausage and soft-cooked egg. PHOTO: PST If you prefer a tomato base, the arrabbiata (S$30) stands out for the spicy nduja and added house-dried chilli padi. The 5 Formaggi (S$34), with as many kinds of melted cheese and a drizzle of honey, is an equal match with Bismarck. All the pizzas get a sprinkle of Okinawa salt when they're fired in the oven, which makes it more salty than we like, so let them know if you don't want it. You can end off with a respectable tiramisu (S$14) or vanilla ice cream with salt and olive oil (S$9.80). Better still, get the ice cream with a shot of sweet potato liquor (S$12), for an addictive boozy treat that should come with a warning of 'don't eat dessert and drive'. Vincenzo Capuano While it fleetingly recalls a famous Korean drama, Vincenzo Capuano is no stylish Italian joint. Compared to the pulled-together look of PST, this place has a just-out-of-bed disregard for tidiness and aesthetics. It looks like it moved, as is, into the former premises of the wood-fired restaurant Kubo; it even retained the overhead wicker lamps and draping greenery, with no thought to how incongruous they are in a pizza setting. Vincenzo's cluttered interiors with wicker lamps retained from the previous restaurant. PHOTO: VINCENZO CAPUANO The restaurant sits in the tired F&B enclave at The Pier at Robertson, with its mismatched tenants and unkempt surroundings. Getting to the public toilet involves a long search, a QR code and facilities that have long lost their hope of being clean again. But, hate the surroundings, enjoy the pizza. And the staff at Vincenzo are friendly and helpful, so suck it up and just dive into the voluptuously puffed pizza that is more pillowy than chewy, thanks to some fancy fermentation. Vincenzo's fried doughnut topped with tomato ragu. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT There aren't many appetisers to speak of, but the guanciale di manzo (S$30) is a worthy pasta if you're in the mood. Rich, unctuous and tender beef ragu clings to slightly overcooked fusilli, but it's rib-sticking good. Montanara al ragu (S$16) is also carb-heavy but fun to eat – the server describes it as a doughnut, and he's not kidding. It's round and chewy and topped with a thick tomato sauce. Vincenzo's provole e pepe is its signature pizza. PHOTO: VINCENZO CAPUANO The kitchen doesn't care much about pacing either, so everything is plonked on your table at once, leaving you to figure out how to eat the pasta, doughnut and pizza all at the same time. It takes some joy out of the meal, but not so much that we can't savour the signature provole e pepe (S$28) with its generous puddle of melted smoked cheese and crushed tomatoes that comes to life with a drizzle of homemade chilli oil. The pizza is way sturdier than PST's, resilient and chewy yet tender. But it's also heavy going, so you can manage only one. But the x-factor of Vincenzo's pizza is that if you reheat it the next day, it holds its shape and texture, particularly if it's an all-cheese version like the Don Vincenzo (S$30). Stuffed with mozzarella and ricotta, with juicy yellow cherry tomatoes and almonds, it's our favourite. Conclusion For an eat-in experience, PST wins for its sane, pleasant surroundings, and lighter pizzas with more sophisticated toppings. They don't do takeaways for good reason, because the pizzas taste best eaten on the spot. Vincenzo's pizzas are more hearty, with a more resilient chew and assertive toppings. The Don Vincenzo is the best option for takeaway and leftovers. Based on chew factor, each has its merits, and how you choose depends on how big a chew you want. Rating: 7 (for both) WHAT OUR RATINGS MEAN 10: The ultimate dining experience 9-9.5: Sublime 8-8.5: Excellent 7-7.5: Good to very good 6-6.5: Promising 5-5.5: Average Our review policy: The Business Times pays for all meals at restaurants reviewed on this page. Unless specified, the writer does not accept hosted meals prior to the review's publication.
Business Times
26-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Business Times
ASU, Dill, Keijo among Singapore's top-rated restaurants in 2025
[SINGAPORE] With the proliferation of restaurants in Singapore, it's hard to decide which to choose, especially among the newer entrants to the dining scene. Let The Business Times take away the guesswork with our guide to the best-rated eateries of 2025, all of which achieved a score of 7 and above in our Dining Out column. Do remember to check back regularly for new listings – and happy eating! Note: This article was created with the help of AI summarisation tools. We've also included the links to the full reviews of each restaurant. DILL Wagyu onglet in tarragon sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Cuisine: Scandinavian What makes it special: Dill's Scandinavian fare surprises with its bold use of fermented, vegetal flavours and authentic ingredients, from brown cheese ice cream to pickled herring puffs. Chef Daniel's refined yet approachable take makes Nordic cuisine feel fresh and inviting – even to Singaporean palates. Read the full review here. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Don't forget to try: The waffles with loyrom – they're not the light and airy variety but made with potatoes for a satisfying chewiness, topped with fish roe mixed in cream. Review rating: 7 Address: Dill 33 Duxton Road Singapore 089497 Tel: 8180-4414 Operating hours: Wed to Sat: 4 pm – 11 pm MANSION 7 The Peking Duck at Mansion 7 is well-priced and definitely worth a try. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Caption: The Peking Duck at Mansion 7 is well-priced and definitely worth a try. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Cuisine: Chinese What makes it special: Mansion 7 offers excellent value, along with warm and entertaining service from host Alex, who's part restaurant manager, part fastest tongue this side of Maxwell Food Centre. The confidently executed Chinese dishes and retro charm make it a surprising but enjoyable dining experience in Tanjong Pagar. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The Peking duck, which is served with thin crepes instead of the usual flour pancakes. Review rating: 7 Address: 30 Maxwell Road #01-03 Singapore 069114 Tel: 6038-0295 Operating hours: Mon to Fri: 11 am – 3 pm; 5.30 pm – 10 pm Sat and Sun: 9 am – 3 pm; 5.30 pm –10 pm KEIJO Aji, or horse mackerel sushi, at Keijo. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Cuisine: Japanese (sushi) What makes it special: Keijo's sushi stands out for its warm, well-seasoned rice and precise balance with quality seafood. Chef Nakamura's nuanced touch and consistency make it a strong, value-conscious contender in Singapore's sushi scene. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: There's a S$98 lunch set, but you'll likely be tempted by the fancier (and pricier) options. Review rating: 7 Address: 76 Bras Basah Road Singapore 189558 Tel: 6338-6131 Operating hours: Mon to Sat: 12 pm – 3 pm; 6 pm – 10.30 pm BELIMBING Clam chawanmushi laced with assam pedas and white pepper sauce. PHOTO: BELIMBING Cuisine: Mod-Sin What makes it special: Belimbing sets itself apart with chef Marcus Leow's inventive, fine-dining reinterpretations of Singaporean hawker flavours. Its signature dishes blend local ingredients with modern European touches, offering a thoughtful, genre-bending take on familiar tastes. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The 'firefly' squid 'rojak', which features grilled local baby squid in an unlikely toss-up involving fried kailan, jambu, torch ginger and homemade hei-ko. Review rating: 7 Address: 269A Beach Road Singapore 199546 Tel: 8869-7243 Operating hours: Tue to Sun (12 pm – 3.30 pm; 6 pm – 10.30 pm) PULSII FRENCH BISTRO Crispy, toasted brioche is topped with creamy chicken liver mousse. PHOTO: PULSII Cuisine: Japanese-influenced French fare What makes it special: Pulsii serves subtly inventive French fare with a Japanese touch, offering light, well-balanced dishes that quietly impress. Chef Daisuke Yoshikawa's understated style delivers flavour without heaviness, making the experience unexpectedly satisfying. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The chicken liver mousse – a lively canape of crispy, toasted brioche topped with whipped faux foie gras cream and a sweet apple-raisin mixture spiked with whisky. Review rating: 7 Address: 55 Tras Street Singapore 078994 Tel: 9689-8407 Operating hours: Mon to Sat (12 pm – 2.15 pm; 6 pm – 11 pm) IMPERIAL TREASURE HUAIYANG CUISINE Sweet-sour crispy deep-fried cod fillet (left) and turtle steamed in chicken oil. PHOTOS: IMPERIAL TREASURE Cuisine: Chinese (Huaiyang) What makes it special: Imperial Treasure Huaiyang Cuisine offers a refined, approachable take on one of China's great culinary traditions, featuring balanced flavours with dishes like shredded tofu and Angus beef in sour soup that feel both familiar and surprising. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The turtle steamed in chicken oil, which has a saltiness (from Yunnan ham) that's evened out by an infusion of Chinese herbs and the sweetness of red dates. Review rating: 7 Address: Imperial Treasure Huaiyang Cuisine #04-12A Ion Orchard 2 Orchard Turn Singapore 238801 Tel: 6636-9339 Operating hours: Mon to Fri (11.30 am – 3 pm; 6 pm – 11 pm) Sat (11 am – 3 pm; 6 pm – 11 pm) SUGARRA Roast suckling pig with roasted cherry apple. PHOTO: SUGARRA Cuisine: Spanish What makes it special: Sugarra stands out with chef Aitor Gonzalez's inventive yet balanced take on Spanish cuisine, pairing refined tapitas (small appetisers) and playful twists – like beetroot tartare and cod-filled doughnuts – with warm, personal hospitality that makes the trip to Sentosa worthwhile. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The tasting menu, which comes in four-, six- and nine-course options. With these, you'll get a generous spread of tapitas that'll keep you fed and entertained until your main courses arrive. Review rating: 7 Address: Sugarra Level 1, Hotel Michael Resorts World Sentosa 8 Sentosa Gateway Singapore 098269 Tel: 6577 6688 Operating hours: Daily (6 pm – 11 pm) SPICY MOMENT Fiery peppercorn chicken. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Cuisine: Chinese (Hunan) What makes it special: Spicy Moment delivers fiery yet balanced Hunan dishes, using simple ingredients and seasoning mastery to craft deeply satisfying home-style flavours. Its addictive heat, nostalgic charm, and dishes like smoky century eggs and twice-cooked potatoes make this Duxton Hill eatery a standout for spice lovers. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The peppercorn chicken (if you dare!), which arrives like a minefield of dried chillies that you have to navigate like Super Mario trying not to fall into a crater of doom. Review rating: 7 Address: 5 Duxton Hill Singapore 089591 Tel: 8068 3598 Operating hours: Tues to Sun (12 pm – 3 pm; 5.30 pm – 11.30 pm) YONGFU SINGAPORE Swimmer crab marinated in yellow wine, ginger and chilli (left) and pickled winter melon in sesame oil. PHOTOS: JAIME EE, BT Cuisine: Chinese (Ningbo) What makes it special: YongFu showcases refined Ningbo cuisine with rare dishes like raw marinated crab, fish bone crackers and silky glutinous rice balls. Its subtle flavours, luxurious ingredients and meticulous technique offer a distinctive take on Chinese fine dining rarely seen in Singapore. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The sea cucumber, which is perfectly braised in a subtly sweet, dark soy sauce with softened leeks and a bit of chewy glutinous rice. Review rating: 7 Address: YongFu Singapore #01-444 Suntec City Mall 3 Temasek Boulevard Singapore 038983 Tel: 8900 8046 Operating hours: Daily (11.30 am – 2.30 pm; 5.30 pm – 9.30 pm) LATIDO Grilled hanger steak served with Andean potatoes (left) and braised rabbit on a cassava flatbread. PHOTOS: JAIME EE, BT Cuisine: Colombian What makes it special: Latido brings Colombian food to life with vibrant flavours, approachable pricing, and a relaxed vibe that avoids fine-dining pretension. Chef Arevalo finally hits his stride, delivering inventive yet familiar dishes rooted in heritage without alienating diners. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The arepa de chocolo y huevo – a sweetcorn cake folded over egg and pork jowl, topped with spicy mayo. Address: Latido 40 Tras Street Singapore 078979 Tel: 8961-8191 Operating hours: Tues to Sat (12 pm – 3 pm; 6 pm – 10 pm) ASU Cold noodles with local mussels in a savoury broth. PHOTO: ASU Cuisine: Asian (modern/experimental) What makes it special: ASU blends Chinese roots with Korean, Thai, and Japanese influences, resulting in original, flavour-driven dishes grounded in chef Ace Tan's personal journey. It's refined yet playful, deeply thoughtful but always delicious – a confident showcase of a Singaporean chef finally hitting his stride. Read the full review here. Don't forget to try: The orh luak 'crystal ball' – a glossy kuzu dumpling filled with oysters and packing a chilli-vinegar punch. Review rating: 8 Address: ASU 30 Labrador Villa Road Singapore 119189 Tel: 8084 0660 Operating hours: Wed to Sun (6 pm – 11 pm) Our ratings system 10: The ultimate dining experience 9-9.5: Sublime 8-8.5: Excellent 7-7.5: Good to very good 6-6.5: Promising 5-5.5: Average Our review policy: The Business Times pays for all meals at restaurants reviewed on this page. Unless specified, the writer does not accept hosted meals prior to the review's publication.
Business Times
12-06-2025
- Business Times
Nordic surprises at Dill
NEW RESTAURANT Dill 33 Duxton Road Singapore 089497 Tel: 8180-4414 Open Wed to Sat: 4 pm to 11 pm; 12 pm to 2 pm (Fri & Sat only) [SINGAPORE] So a funny thing happened on our way to a Chinese restaurant. We're thinking double-boiled soups, yam rings and cold crab – but we get a dubious Norwegian trying to feed us pickled herring, fermented turnips and brown cheese like they're the best things to eat since, uh, Swedish meatballs? Looks like we have the right restaurant, but the wrong time frame. Our eyes say we are at Yue Bai, with its familiar minimalist interiors and distinctive wooden moon gate. But the restaurant is long gone and Dill has taken its place, run by a laid-back couple whose easy-going hospitality makes you think you wandered into a Scandinavian open house by mistake. The cooking is done by chef-owner Daniel Hasvold Jung-Eldoy – henceforth known as just Daniel because to retype his last name will give us finger cramps. Don't equate his slouchy demeanour with a lackadaisical, fool-the-Asian approach to Nordic cuisine. Daniel has serious chef chops, with a resume that includes stints in Michelin-starred restaurants in London and Oslo (which he also co-owned). He's happy to tell you that he moved to Singapore so his bubbly wife, Anna, can be close to her father who lives here, while Dill gives them an opportunity to work as well. A NEWSLETTER FOR YOU Friday, 2 pm Lifestyle Our picks of the latest dining, travel and leisure options to treat yourself. Sign Up Sign Up Oslo's loss is our gain because Dill is a refreshing palate cleanser for those who've grown inured to predictable, garden-variety restaurants. Even though the Nordic penchant for fermentation and vegetal flavours isn't our thing, Dill's authenticity and emphasis on freshness and quality ingredients win us over. There are two menus to choose from – a la carte with all the classics, or an ever-changing tasting menu at S$140 that allows Daniel to flex his creative muscles a bit. We sense that he's not breaking a sweat while he's at it, but even at Scandinavian 101 level, it's pretty good. You're not obliged to order the set menu for the entire table, so you get to sample both. Toast skagen (S$26) is a hefty slice of toasted dense sourdough topped with baby shrimp in a creamy herb-flecked dressing and fermented turnips for extra tang. The shrimp are meaty and firm for their size, and almost chewy. It's basically shrimp on toast, but it satisfies the smorrebrod craving you didn't know you had. Waffles topped with creamy fish roe. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Waffles with loyrom (S$29) are not the light and airy variety but made with potatoes for a satisfying chewiness, topped with fish roe mixed in cream. It's pretty textbook, but for something more ambitious, the set menu starts off with a tiny baked cheese tart topped with a large dollop of the same roe as before. But it's the very crumbly, crisp tart pastry that seals the deal. Pickled herring puffs. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Daniel tells us that he wants to break the pickled herring curse – the one that says no Singaporean will eat it – so he offers us gougere-like puffs filled with a mixture of dill cream mixed with the fermented fish bits and onions. It's from the bar menu and with his compliments. It has a pleasant mild fishiness and is perfectly enjoyable. Curse lifted. Japanese scallops in herb sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Continuing with the set, we get Japanese scallops in a herbal sauce that's initially bitter, but it grows on you, especially when matched with crunchy peas and more sourdough bread on the side. Atlantic cod in fennel sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Atlantic cod is served with pickled fennel slices on an emulsion of butter and pickle juice and some fennel puree – again following the trope of acidity and vegetal, but in a nice way. Beef in wild garlic sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Daniel does meat well, with a good piece of seared beef on a sauce of wild garlic, paired with cooked lettuce. But the wagyu onglet (S$48) from the main menu is better – the tender offcut fatty but beefy, offset by a bitter tarragon sauce and kailan. Wagyu onglet in tarragon sauce. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT For dessert, svele (S$19) is your friend. It's a pancake with a soft and resilient texture that comes from using reindeer horn powder instead of baking powder. Never mind how weird that sounds, the texture is unlike any pancake we've had. It comes with brown cheese ice cream – made from caramelised whey, it adds a slight funkiness to the vanilla ice cream. You either love it or don't. Pancakes and brown cheese ice cream. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT To end the tasting menu, you get a more predictable but lovely homemade strawberry ice cream layered with rhubarb, cream and pie crumble. Strawberry ice cream and rhubarb. PHOTO: JAIME EE, BT Dill is an unexpected pleasure, where an introduction to an unfamiliar cuisine is made all the better by one of the nicest culinary couples we've met. We don't know if it's the best food, but we're sold on the good intentions behind it. Rating: 7
