The Ultimate Guide To The Amalfi Coast

Harpers Bazaar Arabia

4 days ago

Known for its romantic fishing villages nestled among cliffs, creative culinary scene and impressive collection of luxury hotels, there's good reason why the Amalfi Coast tops many a traveller's honeymoon bucket list
While Rome may have its museums, Milan its high fashion scene and Puglia its rustic beauty, few Italian regions set the scene for romance quite like the Amalfi Coast. A place that novelist John Steinbeck called one of the 'most beautiful and dramatic coastlines in the world', where D.H. Lawrence wrote Lady Chatterley's Lover, and where the likes of Reese Witherspoon, Kim Kardashian and Anna Paquin have all honeymooned, this 50km coastal stretch spanning the towns of Positano to Vietri sul Mare is the epitome of post-wedding la dolce vita.
As the busy summer season sets in, Bazaar Bride escaped the heat of the Middle East to venture to the slightly less intense heat on the southern edge of Italy's Sorrentine Peninsula – the perfect setting for newlyweds looking to unwind and toast to their new chapter together.
Amalfi
The coast's namesake charming town that comes steeped in history, Amalfi is ideal for loved-up couples looking to wander hand-in-hand through its winding lanes dotted with boutiques, bars and cafés. At its heart lies Piazza Duomo, where a grand staircase leads to the striking 12th-century Cathedral of Sant'Andrea, while the town is also renowned for its centuries-old papermaking tradition and vibrant lemon cultivation. Follow the lively Via Lorenzo D'Amalfi to discover the Paper Museum and the Amalfi Lemon Experience, where local limoncello and ancient lemon groves await – an idyllic excursion for two.
Where To Stay: Anantara Convento Di Amalfi Grand Hotel
Perched high above the town's sun-soaked port, Anantara's cliffside sanctuary was once a Capuchin monastery, paying tribute to its history by blending 13th-century serenity with five-star flair. Sitting quietly removed from Amalfi's swirl of scooters and camera-toting daytrippers, yet still easily accessible from town (shuttles run every hour, or guests can book private transfers on request), enjoy the same moments of reflection once reserved for its resident monks through its peaceful, bougainvillea-draped Monk's Walk which, stretching the full length of the property, is a stunning spot to soak in views that span the Gulf of Salerno, spritz in hand.
Home to 52 extravagant rooms and suites scattered across multiple levels in what was once the monks' living quarters, while their vaulted ceilings, original tiles and cloister-facing windows remain, they now come complemented by sleek Italian furnishings, Carrara marble bathrooms and modern luxuries like Nespresso machines and Aqua di Parma amenities. Some suites have private terraces with hot tubs perfect for honeymooners, one even hides within its own lemon grove.
As to be expected from the renowned Anantara brand, dining here is most certainly anything but an afterthought, showcasing the region's bounty in simple yet delightful ways. Take your pick from gourmet restaurant Dei Cappuccini, where chef Claudio Lanuto draws from the hotel's gardens and trusted local suppliers to dish up the likes of grilled lobster, lemon-laced pasta and just-caught seafood served al fresco, while La Locanda della Canonica is all about traditional wood-fired pizzas courtesy of Naples maestro Gino Sorbillo. Come morning, breakfast is a lavish affair on the terrace, accompanied by a live harpist and sea breeze – you can burn some of it off at the open-air gym if you're that way inclined.
As for its seemingly-endless amenities, there's an Instagram-ready infinity pool overlooking the azure waters and an intimate spa complete with hammam, two couple rooms with saunas and steam room (we highly recommend booking in for the Citrus Massage Experience, which uses a combination of citrus oils to harness the natural benefits of the Italian lemon), while guests can also book Vespa rides, boat trips to Capri and private history tours including a fascinating walk through the property's historic chapel and cloister with local friar Marcus. Be sure to experience them all.
Don't Miss
The recent Netflix adaptation of Patricia Highsmith's 1950s novel The Talented Mr. Ripley may have sparked a surge in tourism to a quaint seaside Italian town Atrani but, just a short 10-minute walk from the centre of Amalfi, it is still a stunning spot to escape the chaos complete with characteristic scalinatelle (stairways), quiet beaches and a plethora of cafes serving up refreshing lemon granita. Romantic Ravello is also just a 20-minute drive away, home to exquisite 800-year-old villas and the most breathtaking views of the region.
Capri
Located just off the Bay of Naples, Capri is perhaps the most exclusive of all towns in the Amalfi Coast, and arguably the most romantic. Not only is it where the Roman Emperor Tiberius came to live, but you'll find wealthy European and international jet setters in their droves enjoying aperitivo on terraces long after the last ferry returns to Naples or Positano, taking the crowds with it. Blanketed with Mediterranean shrubs, blooming Broom flowers, Bougainvillea and lemon trees (you'll be forgiven for thinking lemons are its entire personality), it's also worth retreating to Anacapri on the other side of the island which, once derided as rustic and uncultured, offers couples a slower, more soulful side of island life, still within a stone's throw away from the designer shops and restaurants of Capri proper.
Where To Stay: Capri Palace Jumeirah
Tucked into the quieter folds of Anacapri, high above the island's glittering coastlines and beyond the thrum of the Piazzetta, Capri Palace Jumeirah feels worlds away from the jet-set circus below. Think whitewashed architecture, museum-worthy art collections and a mood that is far from rustic but never showy, the hotel occupies a commanding perch with views across the Bay of Naples.
Under the wing of Jumeirah, a luxury name we are all familiar with, since 2019, the property has introduced subtle design updates without disturbing its soul, the most recent being its five new suites by architect Patricia Urquiola that opened this summer. All terracotta and marine blues, sculptural plaster walls that ripple like waves and custom pieces that blur the line between furniture and form, they are a playful contrast to the resort's other suites, which come complete with soft sun-bleached tones, minimalist furnishings and a restraint that lets the sea view take centre stage.
Wellness is also a serious affair here, with its famed Capri Medical Spa focusing on circulation, detox and beauty. Its Leg School treatment is a must try, with its three-part ritual of medicated mud, cooling bandages and hydrotherapy promising lighter steps and smoother skin, ideal after long days of travel. As for the food, be sure to linger over an expansive breakfast by the pool before heading down to lunch at Il Riccio Beach Club, where Dior-branded parasols and dishes including burrata, lobster, oysters and super fresh catch of the day make for a stylish, sun-drenched lunch. As for dinner, choose from sushi and DJs with the style set at the rooftop Zuma, or candlelit Campanian dishes at L'Olivo, a critically acclaimed restaurant helmed by chef Andrea Migliaccio.
Don't Miss
You can't visit Capri without getting out on the water, and the best way to do that is via a luxury private charter, where you'll be able to get close to Casa Malaparte (the Italian Modern masterpiece built in the late 1930s after Adalberto Libera's designs), which is otherwise closed to the public. There are companies galore, however, so it's best to contact your hotel concierge ahead of time to see which service they recommend.
Positano
The glitziest gem of the Amalfi Coast, Positano has long been a favourite among honeymooners since the 1960s.Once a modest fishing village, its transformation began in the 1950s, helped along by author John Steinbeck, who famously described it as a 'dream place' in a 1953 Harper's Bazaar article titled Positano Bites Deep.
Where To Stay: Le Sirenuse
A recurring entry in The World's 50 Best list, Le Sirenuse was opened in 1951 by Neapolitan siblings Aldo, Paolo, Anna and Franco Sersale, and has been run by the Sersale family ever since. Just a five-minute walk from the port, guests can enter discreetly via a private staircase meaning not only can you arrive stress-free, you'll also avoid the throngs of crowds vying to get a glimpse of this iconic hotel, which comes is among a cascade of picturesque homes clinging to steep cliffs that plunge toward the sea.
Home to just 58 rooms and suites defined by hand-painted ceramic tiles, private patios and Carrara marble bathrooms, Le Sirenuse is so much more than just a luxury hotel, blending the worlds of fashion, culture, gastronomy, mixology and wellbeing in one fell swoop. Case in point? The scenic La Sponda restaurant, informally glamorous bar-bistrot Aldo's and the chic little Pool Bar showcase this southern Italian region's authentic seasonal produce, each offering candlelit corners and sweeping views made for romance. Its contemporary spa comes designed by architect Gae Aulenti, where a range of signature treatments are available alongside a fitness area with two total-workout Megaformer machines, while guests can enjoy an impressive array of all-inclusive weekly activities including trekking on some of the Amalfi Coast's spectacular mountain trails, fitness classes, hotel flower tours, sunset cruises and even breakfast on the Sant' Antonio boat. As to be expected, art also takes pride of place – the hotel's décor was assembled over decades by antique collector Franco Sersale, with a growing site-specific contemporary art collection featuring talents of the calibre of Martin Creed, Nicolas Party and Swiss artist Caroline Bachmann.
Don't Miss
Praiano may be known as Positano's quieter and quainter neighbour, but that's not the case at One Fire Beach, which is perhaps the most stylish beach club in the region. A short 10-minute boat transfer from Positano port, this is a place that takes the meaning of 'fun in the sun.' Be sure to stay until at least 4.30pm, which marks the Insta-famous 'watermelon show', a lively spectacle led by the enthusiastic samurai-sword-wielding staff.